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Discussion of DIY related topics

File: 1444398512221.jpg (34.77 KB, 300x450, 2:3, sexy-diy-blond-14315961.jpg)

 No.170[Reply]

This board is for the discussion of all topics relating to:

- DIY

- crafts

- hobbies

Please ask for advice, but preferably do a bit of research first. Well thought out responses are more likely if you seem to have some idea of what your doing.

This is a "Safe For Work" board, so please no porn/drug related images.



File: 1457218141202.jpg (69.66 KB, 800x546, 400:273, image00.jpg)

 No.262[Reply]

Hi there diyers, does anyone have any good sources on extracting methane from sewage? I have tried looking for ebooks on this but to no avail. I have checked a few diy torrents and mostly its about extraction of gas from kitchen waste as opposed to sewage.



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 No.259[Reply]

I have two 19th century books with partially damaged spines that I would like some advice on.

The first one has a leather binding and a piece of the spine has fallen off. I still have the chip of leather (it may not be easy to see, but I have placed the loose piece next to the empty spot in the photo), and I would like to know whether it's a good idea to simply glue it back in place. It was only the outer part of it that fell off, so it wouldn't be attaching the spine to the pages or anything. If it should be glued back, what is the best type of glue to use for it? Would simple Elmer's glue be best, or would it be better to use superglue?

Also, the leather seems to be very dry on that book and is cracking along the front and back creases of the spine, so it needs to be oiled. I have different types of mink oil for my leather shoes, so would that work on a leather book binding?

The second book is a cloth bound one that has part of the upper spine partially torn. In this case, part of the paper beneath the spine's binding is also damaged. It looks like I could glue it between the paper below that is intact and the cloth at the top of the spine.

I normally wouldn't ask for help on this, but I'd like to be especially careful due to the age of the books.

 No.261

I'm not sure what Elmer's glue is, but I'd be obliged to use some type of rubber cement, something which will bend well.

Having said that, these are old books… Do you know what they are worth? Perhaps if would be better to get the job done professionally.




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 No.64[Reply]

I'm planning to get a number of these for different purposes. I believe they are made of aluminum. Is there any feasible way to engrave, color, or otherwise permanently modify them with the a logo?
3 posts omitted. Click reply to view.

 No.115

How many is "a number?"

If the number is large you might consider laser engraving. Lots of laser cutters do this but only economical in volume


 No.123

caustic fumes, not toxic


 No.132

The best way is to get them done professionally. Many companies like this one do it.

https://www.customusb.com/exclusive-branding-tool/01/

I know, I'm a fagot.


 No.240

Did you end up getting these? I have one and it's really slow.


 No.260

>>74

This, depending on how much you oxidize aluminum its color will change.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c11nl8XcohE




File: 1420444045979.png (80.45 KB, 1674x968, 837:484, x450_sport.png)

 No.54[Reply]

Hi there!

Does anyone else fly R/C multirotors? I've been flying them for a little over two years now. Been in R/C since '86.

Pic related. It's an 450 sized sport quad I've been working on.
17 posts and 4 image replies omitted. Click reply to view.

 No.249

File: 1454928348998.jpg (190.55 KB, 1400x933, 1400:933, Hw_IMG_3836.jpg)

Finally something actually relevant to post. The RPi2 has arrived, complete plug-and-play, the sticks were immediately working, video feed is fine, as you can see the lag is stable at 150ms. I'll have to power the RPi on the quad and figure out mounting the camera before I can do a flight test.

The new props have arrived, I ordered the ones I linked in the previous post, they seem solid, reinforced, doubt these will break easily.


 No.251

Great, thanks for the update.


 No.255

>>249

The range on these things out of the box is beyond shit, however. I tested them the other day and it was somewhere between 15 and 25m, depending on shrubs getting in the way. I will make a modification to the sticks that allows attaching external antennas and put on a cloverleaf, hopefully it will push it beyond 250m.

I also found a really cheap 7" LCD on Aliexpress ($17) that has 480p resolution and ordered it for use with the system, I'm considering making a DIY FPV headset with that screen. The low resolution does defeat the point of the HD FPV, but I intend to buy a full-fledged VR headset in the future, so this is just to have something until then.

I'm also thinking about buying a very low-end analog 5.8GHz video system for low latency, the 150ms in Wifibroadcast isn't terrible but it's not possible to do acrobatic flight with that kind of lag, it's only good for stable flight, like exploration and whatnot. For reference, those systems have around 50ms lag if you pick the parts well.


 No.257

>>54

>>54

how much would it be for a high end racing drone, complete with a high res fpv equipment? im trynna join drone racing before it gets big here in San Diego


 No.258

>>257

High res FPV isn't really viable for racing, especially on 250 quads. You want the lowest possible latency and HD video typically stays in the 100ms+ ranges. There are some lower latency transmitters, but they're extremely expensive and big, they don't fit on a racing quad.

If you have money to blow though, you can shop around for a good camera, though the one I see recommended most often, the Sony 600TVL Super HAD is not very expensive as such, but has good adaptability to light, which is pretty important.

You can grab a HeadPlay HD FPV headset, has a 800x1280 screen and HDMI in, so if you decide to later on give a try to HD FPV, it will be able to handle it. Also has an integrated receiver for standard analog video. This one costs $250. Cheaper solutions do exist however.

For the transmitter I think you can safely grab something Eachine from Banggood, it's not likely to make a huge difference. Research antennas however, they make a big difference.

For the actual quadcopter, you should probably consider starting with a cheaper quad because you're gonna be crashing a lot. If you have absolutely 0 experience with quads, I strongly recommend getting a bigger $30-$45 toy quadcopter from China so you can get used to their handling without breaking a propeller every minute. Alternatively you can just use a simulator but it's not quite the same.

Only if you are confident in your flying should you start throwing money at the quadcopter itself, if you buy brandname components you're gonna be finding yourself around the $400 mark for the body, motors, ESCs and battery. The same shit costs $90 from China.

If you don't have a radio, a RadioLink AT9 is a good value choice at around $100, otherwise you can get an FrSky X9D+ at some $250.




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 No.230[Reply]

So I'm trying to swap the end of power adapters to get one the size and voltage I need. I have a box of them, and was trying to check the polarity after I cut the end off. It was supposed to be 9V, but read about 3.5 then rapidly dropped off to zero.

I tried another, it was supposed to be 10v, but started at 6 and settled at 2.8.

I plugged it into a wall socket (240v), and it reads 10.5.

What's going on guys? This meter is supposed to be good quality. There are very few settings, could I have something wrong?

5 posts and 2 image replies omitted. Click reply to view.

 No.242

>>241

>Are you saying that is not suitable for ac?

Yes and no, For mains voltage no I'd be sticking with a known brand like fluke or kyoritsu downside is there pretty expensive but better knowing its been properly tested and certified. Your meter would be fine for use on lower ac voltages like you'd find on bike or outboard alternator.

Also are your plugpacks AC-DC or AC-AC?


 No.243

>>241

Your meter is a rebadged CEM DMP-30

Manual can be found here: http://www.gmelectronic.com/img/cache/doc/722/428/digitalni-multimetr-rc-cem-dmp-30-orignavod-1.pdf

Pushing mode once voltage is selected should change it from AC to DC and yeah auto is for the range.


 No.244

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>>243

Thanks for the manual, it didn't come with one.

I did try the mode button but didn't notice it switching ac - dc, although I was looking at the plug packs at that point. They had a symbol as attached between the output voltage and ampage. I was expecting them to be dc packs and assumed that this was the symbol.

I'll have another go when I get back in a week or so.


 No.250

Okay, a quick update to this. I measured the voltage of a new AA battery and the meter read "OL" (overload), then went to get my phone to take a photo. Then the meter read 1.54v, and has been behaving itself since. I guess I'll just keep monitoring it and keep my eyes out for another meter. Any recommendations for something basic but good quality? I don't measure anything other than voltage and resistance.


 No.256

>>250

Keep an eye out for an anologue meter, really handy for picking up voltage fluctuations. If you buy it from somewhere like jaycar ask them to test it in store on a couple of resistors and power supplies before buying it.




File: 1454931946385.jpeg (71.81 KB, 750x545, 150:109, Flashlights.jpeg)

 No.252[Reply]

Quick jobs to keep the household operating smoothly are the diy-ers near and butter. Post your quick fixes in this thread. Bonus points if they are negligible cost.

 No.253

My solar christmas lights from two years ago had stopped lighting up.

On investigation, it appears that the batteries are buggered, but the solar panel is still producing 5v.

I replace the batteries, and now I should be able to enjoy my Christmas lights year round one again.


 No.254

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Oops, photo




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 No.122[Reply]

I've just came up with a super-original-idea-do-not-steal, that I can't be arsed writing-up on a monetized blog before telling websites like Hackaday.

It's a variation on the 'Solderfree Breadboard from IDE connectors' idea (http://www.instructables.com/id/Bread-Board-from-IDE-Cables/ et.al), where the 50-way IDE header sockets have the adjacent pins of the bottom half soldered together.

It gives you multiple access points to GPIO signals which is really handy too.

 No.128

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>>122

I'm dumb because I can't understand a damn thing you wrote.

Basically it sounds like you're making a change to the instructables thing, but you haven't explained what your change is.


 No.133

Patent it first niger


 No.236

File: 1453693094827.png (148.45 KB, 755x375, 151:75, Iszb6Pk.png)

>>122

nice, but whats sjw about the pi?


 No.246

Why the fuck would you bother when breadboards from China are so cheap?


 No.248

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 No.206[Reply]

How do I get woodstain off of a plastic/vinyl/cheapass shower. I don't want to have to pay for a new one.

 No.212

File: 1450420411087.jpg (77.44 KB, 720x960, 3:4, 9a810ffee20262bf3b505d94cc….jpg)

Lacquer thinner and Gumout carb cleaner are excellent cleaning chemicals.

If those don't work, you're FUCKED


 No.215

I don't know the exact situation, but as a last resort you could try painting the whole thing with wood stain and art least having it a consistent color.


 No.237

>>212

this

also,try aceton

t. boatyard fag


 No.245

Before you try anything that will fuck the surface e.g. acetone, try car T-Cut - it's used for removing oxidisation haze off cars and is a really fine abrasive/polish.




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 No.160[Reply]

I've been thinking about getting a Multiplex Easystar 2 as a cheap entry into the world of RC. Eventually I would like to fit it with FPV gear and fly like that. It's this a good plan? Show me your RC planes here.

 No.203

File: 1447755248461.jpg (9.81 KB, 306x165, 102:55, conceptXmini.jpg)

I got one of these as my first, but that was after like 200 hours of simulation to get used to the left/right swap thing.

Holy fuck this bitch is hard to land on rough terrain.

So yea, something with long strait wings, a prop, and a low stall speed is WAY easier to fly.

Also, holy fuck an EDF is hard to fly without a rudder. Don't believe them when they say it's RTF. Just get some extra servos to have lying around.


 No.235

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

saw on reddit

saw this thread

posten


 No.239

>>235

Might work for some odd hydroplane design, where you just can't use a propeller. Though, I think even then duct fans are probably more efficient. Nice idea, just not very practical.




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 No.225[Reply]

I want to burn fucktons of candles all day everyday.

How to do so efficiently and enjoyably?

 No.234

>>225

You could build a simple robotic arm that moves around lighting candles in predefined positions, though it wouldn't look very nice. Otherwise, use candles without casing and a small flamethrower?




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 No.227[Reply]

I have a 2002 Toyota prado, and today it started with a massive vibration. I was driving along the highway at 100kph when it happened. I pulled over, and checked that all the tyres were full, and that the wheel nuts are tight, then continued. The vibration started again when I reached 60kph.

I stopped and checked for damage on the tyres, and that the suspension and steering did looked good. I checked the weights on the wheels, and it doesn't look like any have fallen off. Shortly I will go and get a wheel balance done, but does anyone have another idea?

 No.228

So a wheel balance fixed the problem. I was dubious at the time as the tyre fitter said that there was only about 5-10g difference . Seems good now though.




File: 1452628912567.jpg (2.43 MB, 1520x2688, 95:168, IMAG0432.jpg)

 No.222[Reply]

My boss would rather Frankenstein the power supply than make a trip to the surplus store.

They have a slight bulge but aren't blown yet.

I would rather buy a new psu, but it's some small form factor for lenovo desktops

 No.223

>>222

>ever opening a power supply


 No.224

rip op




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 No.183[Reply]

I've got a nice old knife which has worked well for me but I would like to restore it a bit. The handle was coming apart and starting to collect nasty debris behind it.

I was going to rust convert and prime the handle part of the blade. The wood I would sand a couple of times then glue and hammer the handle back on, and another layer of varnish. Any comments on this plan? Does anyone know view old it is? I was thinking maybe about WW1…

6 posts and 6 image replies omitted. Click reply to view.

 No.197

>>196

Yeah, I see what your saying, but i really dont want to modify the tang. I'd prefer to carve an entirely new handle to doing that.

I think i might first just have a go at sealing the existing handle and seeing how it goes as is.


 No.198

Hey buddy,

Looking interesting.


 No.202

>>193

I hate to be that guy, but you're wearing some kind of latex or neoprene gloves when you handle that two part epoxy, right?

tl;dr, seriously, read the MSDS on every chemical you use.


 No.220

File: 1452406310255.jpg (723.62 KB, 3868x870, 1934:435, IMG_20160110_140220~2.jpg)

Ok, so my phone camera hasn't been working and finally replaced it. After a bunch of more coats of paint and sanding, I'm OK with the current state of it.

What have I learnt? Well, it would have been a much better option to use the tang a a pattern and cut a new handle out of some heavy hardwood.


 No.221

File: 1452406483227-0.jpg (751.43 KB, 3757x1190, 221:70, IMG_20160110_140243~2.jpg)

File: 1452406483227-1.jpg (723.62 KB, 3868x870, 1934:435, IMG_20160110_140220~2.jpg)

Overall, I am happy with the result and managed to keep the original hundred year old wood with my knife.




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 No.218[Reply]

I wanna add leds (possibly a strip) to my new T450 (like the old school keyboard lights) and I'm not really too sure how hard it would be to do this. I am someone who has very little experience with circuitry, so I don't exactly know all this project would entail. So I would like to know what this project would entail as well where I should start researchwise.



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