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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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Discussion of DIY related topics

File: 5fc84d5131ea4ae⋯.jpg (369.05 KB, 830x1024, 415:512, 473724525768745732323.jpg)


Hi! New BO here, I thought I’d list some links that could be of use. Just shout if you have a suggestion.

Unit conversions, physics formulas, constants, standard dimensions, material properties and much more


Big tutorial link repository


Tips, tricks and blog about living in a vehicle


Various diy project walkthroughs



Build your own PC and compare parts


Blog that feature various hacks and articles. Link is to the electronics repair-hacks section


Soap ingredient calculator


Tablet weaving tutorial


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I'd very rarely trust a free vpn. ~$5/mo is not much if you're serious about privacy. The service will be tested and rated and they need not be paid by some unknown entity. An entity that sometimes want something in return to cover their expenses. :^)

Very happy with airvpn after a year and a half.

That said, some supply both paid and a semi-shit free one so their loyalty could still be with their paying customers, and if you need a free one I'd start by reading this.


File: 418b4b9e9a4c315⋯.jpg (73.49 KB, 879x960, 293:320, 43424409_1917050418389003_….jpg)


Greetings and salutations

Here on the /diy/ board we discuss:

>Creating/building/crafting/constructing things by yourself

>Mending and repair

>Advice on tools, equipment and techniques related to diy

>Whatever else you think should be on this board

Porn is not diy. Gore is not diy. /pol/ is not diy. /k/ is not diy by itself, but building, repairing or servicing etc. any weapons is perfectly in line with this board.

Other sites that share our theme:

> https://lainchan.org/diy/

> http://boards.4chan.org/diy/

Enjoy your stay!

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I'm the new board owner and I'd like to welcome you and hope you'll enjoy your time here.

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File: 5d70764da816312⋯.jpg (31.28 KB, 500x500, 1:1, pallet_town.jpg)


I want to build a bar in my garage entirely out of cargo pallets. But every pallet I've ever brought home has been visited by the legendary nail gun of a thousand suns. The nails are heavily embedded in there. My crowbar only splits off chunks around the edges. I cut one up with a circular saw and then tried pulling on the pieces, and they'd still rather snap instead of coming apart. What am I supposed to do with this material? It's sat outside in the yard rotting away because I can't find a use for this stuff.



Have you tried hitting the boards from the underside? In my experience that's the best way to take apart cargo pallets, and you can hammer the nails out from the sharp ends once the boards are off


>But every pallet I've ever brought home has been visited by the legendary nail gun of a thousand suns. The nails are heavily embedded in there.

Wow it's almost like they're a piece of staging for industrial goods that have to withstand very heavy loads and being used and abused year after year by uncaring forklift operators.

>What am I supposed to do with this material? It's sat outside in the yard rotting away because I can't find a use for this stuff.

I'd say burn it, but it's probably rotten and covered in god knows what. There are some projects that can be made from whole pallets attached together, but if you just want reclaimed wood, pick up people's discarded bed frames and shit instead. It's prettier wood and plenty strong for furniture (obvs if you could make a bed out of it in the first place, you can probably make another bed out of it just fine)

Anyway, I mostly hear people just saw them apart and throw away the bits with nails.



Don't be a snail, bin that nail!

But yeah, hit it up from the underside near the nails and they'll come up and out with the board. Or burn them. They burn quickly, but it's still pretty fun to burn a bunch of them.


Don't use pallets if you plan on using that bar. Pallets are shit on by birds and carry tons of germs and shit.



For the most clean result I'd saw everything along the three beams, just on either side of it. You'll get lots of planks the same length and the beams could also be used. The side with the planks could be tured away from view if you want but I'd probably keep them visible so that you can see it's from a pallet because it'd look so diy. You could probably even use them effectively as supports if the beams are placed vertically.

Planning should be much easier this way with pieces uniform in two variants. Just keep in mind why they made a pallet out of this wood instead of a $200k table.

File: 63188c98358533a⋯.jpg (46.21 KB, 800x534, 400:267, Untitled.jpg)


Suppose you accidentally puncture a plastic bottle or a tin can but throwing them away isn't an option. How do you fix the aforementioned puncture without the repair job being egregiously noticeable?


How large is the puncture? If it's small enough you could perhaps use a glue gun without the glue and just use the hot end to drag across the crack slow enough so that it smudges the plastic. Possibly put a tiny drop of glue gun stick pastic beforehand to increase ammount of material.

File: 1c0e68a3525b099⋯.jpg (51.84 KB, 590x550, 59:55, diy-lightning-wand.jpg)



I'm doing a project attempting to miniturize a handheld van de graaff, just in case anyone's interested there's this link for a handheld van de graaff "shock staff" which can be used for some interesting things


I noticed there's also a pdf link in the comments (for those who can't access instructables for whatever reason)

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File: 36ad5d678d25770⋯.png (343.44 KB, 578x512, 289:256, aluminium-roller.png)

File: 5d5c8d5ab5797d5⋯.png (629.39 KB, 978x432, 163:72, rollers-with-belt.png)


Okay so I made an aluminium roller because I couldn't find or get any spandex or anything better than aluminium foil

But then I kept having issues with it, had to cut off of it and adjust it but it wouldn't spin properly, the belt keeps getting misaligned so I'll have to figure out how to fix that. I removed the gearwheels and made the surface smoother with some tape before putting the aluminium on

At least the belt fits fine, I've taped it together on both sides with the clear tape



Is it something that will need periodic re-tensioning and maintenance?? If you'd wat to put it in a more permanent position inside a pipe or so.


File: c8fa639e3c4fcb0⋯.png (905.89 KB, 1164x472, 291:118, vdg-with-L-pieces.png)


I started making this for an experiment, its actually pretty easy to make a van de graaff, I've just had issues with materials and getting the parts put together right this time around. I tried using an L shaped part instead of I shaped part, but the belt still gets caught. I think the aluminium roller is the main issue right now, its uneven and I need something to keep the shape better. I might try putting a pen cap or something similar for the aluminium roller


I don't think it needs much maintenance if its built well. The one I had before and took apart worked pretty well for as long as I needed it. I took it apart to test something else. I still think this one could work better than that one because it has a wider belt. I just need to fix it up a bit, mainly the negative roller



I meant positive roller, since the aluminium is the positive end but yeah

Also had an issue with the motor, one of the wires broke off. This is a bit of a low end effort.


I see. Making the belt go straight at all times and not getting stuck to something seem to be one of the biggest obstacles.

File: db27b994c51d633⋯.jpg (125.56 KB, 1280x960, 4:3, photo5785391377041961070.jpg)


Greetings and salutations!

Christmas is closing in, and the best gift is the one you put your own sweat into. What are you making for gifts this year? Gifts you've made previous years are also welcome, perhaps they'll provide inspiration for other anons.

For starters I'm 3d-printing custom labeled emergency whistles in contrast colors for people who could have use for them like hunters. What should I use as string/rope?



>What should I use as string/rope?

thinner paracord is your beast option.



I ended up using hemp twine. Not ideal for comfort but felt appropriate as I partly sold them on being sustainable and bio-degradeable. The plastic is PLA (from corn starch or sugar cane).

Parachord could have been good too if I had found an appropriate size.



I thought they were made out of salmon.



They do look rather appetizing in a way. Probably the color.

You know, I'd bet some madman somewhere already spent half a week modifying their printer to print in salmon paste. People already print chocolate directly on sandwhiches, print gingerbread houses etc.

I don't even know what could surprise me anymore.

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.


I don't think we have a /toy/.


Absolutely diy.

That's some real nice restoration craftsmanship. Quite satisfying when you spend a lot of time and it turns out that well.

File: 10cd33588607f7d⋯.png (52.54 KB, 940x529, 940:529, 5pb31-T2BAP852YQK-Full-Ima….png)


Inaugural Larry "Framing Father" Haun Edition

Post hack jobs, decent jobs, and questions related to making your shanty-tier hovel somewhat livable here.

I'll start, I recently bought a house that comes with a waterfront shed with attached dock. The foundation is pretty worn out because water, and will collapse relatively imminently, although I haven't gotten an engineer's opinion on it yet. My options are three, 1. reinforce the existing foundation with infill/cement, 2. disassemble the shed, put in a new foundation, and then rebuild, or 3. go full nigger and run the shed into the dirt (water, more specifically) and then rebuild from the ashes.

1 is probably the trickiest and probably most outside-labor intensive, as I'd probably need to get a structural engineer in and figure out exactly what to do. 2 sounds more labor intensive but I could easily do all of the demo and the rebuild, I would just need a better opinion on how to put in a new foundation. I'd also be able to salvage most of the existing shed. 3 is the cheapest, most dangerous, and easiest, so I'm leaning away from that option. What do?

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File: f6f35e6699743cb⋯.jpg (1.52 MB, 2064x1162, 1032:581, corrugated metal roof.jpg)


Any time.

Sounds sensible. In the meantime you can plan and look up how to do stuff. Helical piles sound like good advice.

I bet it will be fun. My days settling down and patching things up like this are still ahead, and I'm looking forward to them.

>metal roofs

From what I see when looking around they seem to be simple enough to install, and a good choice in most cases. Check the drawbacks and see if any would affect you especially, eg. it hails often. If you'll be working alone I'd borrow or rent efficient tools to save time and be very strict and consistent regarding safety.

I would have a glance at the following links for starters.





Youtube is also gold for eg. video instructions on laying it, to see if it should be within your abilities.



OP here, different IP. I was really surprised to see how affordable (relatively speaking) helical piles can be. Of course, that depends on the company, but I was expecting 5 figures. Disassembling the existing structure would make it a LOT cheaper of course, which I'm willing to put the work into.

The next step would be running 240V but I have NO idea what that entails.



>different IP

good man

It's always good to do as much by yourself as you can. I helped build a club house extension a few years ago, slightly amish style, and in the end around HALF the construction price was saved because of volunteers doing manual simple labor. Ofc some things required licensed people to be safe and you don't want to be cheap with that.


You americans mix 120v and 240v right?

Imagine the river of power flowing to your appliances is twice as wide (width 240x instead of 120x). Thereby the flow speed (amps) will be half to get the same ammount of water (watts). This is a bit more efficient and universal, but I don't know what the majority of your electrical stuff is supposed to run on so I dunno.

Are you people switching over to 240v in your homes?



The shed is run with 120V, but I didn't take a good look at the run (should have), so I'm not sure if 240V is run there too. The issue is that the shed is across the street from the house so laying new cable would be a bitch.

It's kind of funny how American houses are run. It's 240V from the transformer but then it's split at the breaker box into 2 120V stacks, but if you want 240V you need a separate breaker installed. At least, that's how I understand it. Regardless, 240V is used a lot in America, but mostly for big appliances/tools like washers, dryers, refrigerators, anything that needs higher wattages. Standard appliances are all 120V though because "muh safety".


File: 88ed7803ff6467c⋯.webm (2.56 MB, 1920x1080, 16:9, darwin.webm)


Interesting. I'd imagine this is a remnant from the youth of electricity and back then this was simpler/safer/generally more optimal.

I guess when it came to the other side of the pond it was already developed enough that they said let's just go for all 240v.

>muh safety

Nice to hear that you have a safe socket for kids to stick forks into. Here they don't have an outlet for that impulse.

File: 1446521194577.png (1.1 MB, 900x600, 3:2, ClipboardImage.png)


So, for the past few years I've been really interested in the whole Tiny House movement that sprung up. After further research, I've come to realize that the whole damned thing is a scam, or at the very least, a cleverly framed lie that obscures the hidden costs, difficulties, and contradictory reality of how these things actually work.

The pitch goes something like this: For a modest sum, far cheaper than a normal house, you can build or buy a cozy dwelling that you can just tow wherever you want and comfortably live off the grid in a pleasant, low-cost, simplistic lifestyle without bills or any of the stressful clutter of modern living. All you have to do is get a trailer and slap a house on top of it and rig up some solar panels and no one can stop you, because it's not technically against the law!

Here's the reality though..

Tiny houses are fucking heavy, meaning you can't just use any truck and trailer. Chances are you'll need to buy both of those, and without some miraculous craigslist luck, that's already going to cost more than the advertised 20-30k pricetag. When it comes to utilities, you either need to get set up like a camper, meaning dedicated electricity and water lines, or get used to reading books by candlelight and nothing else, because a tiny house is just an overgrown treefort unless you spend a lot more to make the thing habitable year-round. Hope you like shitting in a bucket and keeping it in the same small breathing space as the rest of your life!

Not to mention that most people don't actually live in their tiny houses all year round. They don't tell you that shit. That's because most of them just park in the backyard of property they already own or mooch off some forgiving friend or relative. So unless you're already a wealthy yuppie or you have someone who has the space for the damned thing, you're fucked. Because you might think you can just buy a small parcel of land and park it there, but that's wrong too! Composting toilets, collecting rainwater, and even just parking a trailer on land not zoned for trailers is all illegal in many parts of the country. More likely than not, you're looking at thousands of dollars in zoning fines, provided they don't just send the police in to Post too long. Click here to view the full text.

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This is a good post.



Great post.

Wood is underrated. Proper wood that is.

They used wooden ceiling beams in hangars (the only wooden part mind you) because in a bad fire the wood will buckle far later than the steel beams. That's pretty god damn impressive for some long sugar chains.

This post gives some other positives.

What would you say are the biggest downsides of building in wood?

When making things for myself I like to use as much wood as I reasonably can.


File: 5a20af8bd13282d⋯.jpg (1.45 MB, 1952x2608, 122:163, stave wood church 1100AD.jpg)


>They used wooden ceiling beams in hangars (the only wooden part mind you) because in a bad fire the wood will buckle far later than the steel beams.

now THAT is forward thinking, (proper) wood is impresivly fire resistant, its when you add the MaxMegaPoly coating 2000 it becames flamable and self-rots

>What would you say are the biggest downsides of building in wood?

People underestimate how complex it it - steel and brick is what you see is what you get, wood building is like a dark art. + very expensive compared to brick


File: e773a1e5855d497⋯.jpg (169.69 KB, 1000x568, 125:71, ZiFHXo5JGAWyaUZmcIA_HQsVXy….jpg)


It can be decently fire resistant if done right, but I don't think the flames would touch the ceiling beams. It just doesn't go soft en semi-melt like metals at high temperature.

>becomes flamable and self-rots

That may be true to a point but it may be overstated. A log structure may do fine but most other wood will screw you quite nicely if it has a few min to catch fire. Not too long ago there was nothing to do if it caught fire properly. Half the town would burn if one house did.

And if you don't treat wood with anything it will rot quite nicely if exposed to a bit of moist.

However I'm interested in how treating wood with natural tar would work out, and will try to use it for outdoor surfaces. For indoor and smaller stuff I love flax oil. For butter knives and food stuff I'll use canola.

pic is fantoft stavkirke

With all this said, I am impressed by how well the supports did. That's pretty amaizing.


File: 04874676a5de246⋯.png (51.91 KB, 242x273, 242:273, hitler lamp.png)


Just thought I would share a great project with you

Simple to make, very stylish

Suits any home



This exclusionary fixture offends me greatly.

What about the people who only see it at night, who will only see four lights? Remove high-luminocity bulbs and replace with LED strip with proper sharp corners, and for Adolf's sake turn that crank 45 degrees.


Besides, that lamp would just look out of place unless the rest of your home looks steampunk enough.

Great conversation piece tho. Replace bulb with blowtorches powerful enough to make it spin slowly and you'll certainly have my attention.


File: d16c35622a7a2eb⋯.jpg (325.9 KB, 1436x1080, 359:270, Madred,_four_lights.jpg)


>who will only see four lights?

Five lights*



Nice; I saw this episode for the first time only just last week.



Tis a great series.

File: c554f8acaea49df⋯.png (424.19 KB, 633x545, 633:545, isolation red brick2.png)


1. how do people insulate walls in your country?

2. how good is the system performance wise?

2. list the problems that system creates

1. Croatia - usually red aired brick with rock wool and covered with facade pic rel

2. System is very reliable and worm, works great for sound and heat

3. biggest problem is facade…it can get swollen with moisture if it lacks overhang but it isnt that common, still I would preffer a simple double or a triple brick wall - its a more durable system with probably the same thermal performanc…facade mainintence can be expensive


File: f952ca337e0d695⋯.jpg (565.46 KB, 1000x588, 250:147, house_domprojekt_kuca_djan….jpg)

this is how it looks with facade from outside, notice the chunkiness of walls. same isolation system is built with apartments.

also question, what kind of isolation system do big brutalist builds use?



I'd imagine we do roughly the same in not-netherlands, with the exception that we build more out of wood and have thicker insulation because it's colder in not-netherlands.

However I'd imagine a sort of universal standard being developed, only tweaked to local climate differences.

I can't really speak for 2 or 3 because of lack of experience. Last time I did insulation construction I was like 7yo and back then I was just happy to get to drive a bobcat through our kitchen wall beforehand. The old insulation was two layers of planks with sawdust in between, but then again my house turned 100yo a few years ago.


>big brutalist builds

I don't know what you mean exactly. Could you give an example?


File: 1681c1ea2de2a6d⋯.jpg (187.02 KB, 1024x1024, 1:1, brutalist skyscraper.jpg)


> The old insulation was two layers of planks with sawdust in between

sawdust for insulation? that is brilliant! I know that stone houses in Dalmatia are just thicc raw stone walls and they are never hot or cold, but its not an extremely cold climate (it can get very cold in summer despite the postcard look).

Build in Netherlands usually feature a lot of brick on the outside, do they put sawdust between the walls or smht?

>I don't know what you mean exactly. Could you give an example?

I mean those builds with raw cement as a facade. pic rel. How do they keep the cold out? Cement is a bad isolator but they arent that cold most of the time.



I don't know how they build in the netherlands but over here we don't use it anymore.

Where I live wood is in more abundance and many houses are still constructed from it, so we've had a good source of it.

Sawdust seem to be a good off-grid diy eco economical choice and we went with it for quite long. I'd certainly consider it for an off-grid cabin because of sustainability as you don't need civilization to replace it.

The downside looks to be that with the decades the sawdust will settle and pack more densly so that the isolation is compromised at the top while further down it is packed so that there is less space for air to help insulate.

As for concrete houses I'd guess polystyrene blocks, rock/glass wool and then plaster.



I got the idea of building a house from wood and use sawdust as insulation, but having a way to detach parts of the top and bottommost plank or log on each outer (probably best) wall. This way one could remove bottom parts every few decades, extract the sawdust to let it mix with air and fluff up/decompact itself, and then fill it up again from the top in order to maintain low compactation in the lower parts and ensure that it's filled all the way up.

Perhaps you don't even need to mess with the wall but can crawl under it and remove the isolation floor, and access the top from the roof or the wedge between the roof or the top of the wall.

Of course the house can't be too big and would probably be off grid or at least not in a city or village.

What do you think,



I just want a way to make sawdust not obsolete again.

File: bd4d564e9398b42⋯.jpg (63.33 KB, 1280x960, 4:3, photo5859359991008440269.jpg)


While I impatiently wait for my Ender 3 to arrive and let me unleash my autism on the world I'd like to, as BO, wish you all an excellent 2019 and ask you makers a question.

I have been asked to design a carrying case for fresh prints from a medical vat polymerisation printer (SLA I believe) to transport prints from the printer to the tripropylene washing machine. They need it to shield fresh prints from damage and personell from exposure to toxic resin. (they want to move the printer to a vibration shielded room in the basement and thus have to move fresh prints several floors up to the washing machine at the clinic)

What filament would be appropriate for this task?

It needs to withstand exposure to SLA resin and preferably have a more stiff structure than, say, ninjaflex.

It does not need to withstand any significant temperatures.

Worst case, if all available filament materials are dissolved or otherwise compromised by the resin, is there some paint I could apply to reach my objective?

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File: 62507633ee934f5⋯.jpg (145.12 KB, 1599x899, 1599:899, IMG-20180330-WA0019.jpg)


Sad that there isn't more activity!

Shitty shelf I built


File: 63885e127febf80⋯.png (127.26 KB, 567x277, 567:277, 4chang.png)


File: ee9befa644d0cd7⋯.jpg (2.05 MB, 3264x2448, 4:3, 20171118_163347.jpg)

I'll bump with a shitty shelf of my own. Actually not so shitty, just super cheap, which is why it doesn't even have solid shelves. Occasionally you can find pieces of wood for free, so I just trusted I'd find big enough pieces for the shelves eventually.


Thinking about making a desk out of a few 2x6



Dank joke m8




File: 6564d0937098253⋯.jpg (254.57 KB, 820x492, 5:3, Christmas-gifts-t.jpg)


Found this cool ideas for Christmas gifts . In case you planing tto make some gifts this year check it out !

Source: https://craftingzonee.com/10-diy-christmas-gift-ideas-that-you-can-create-in-no-time/

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The shell casing crystal looks fun. I'd be a conversation piece.

I have a few tools at my flat but there's a fab lab here too if I need heavier equipment. Dunno where I'd get crystal tho I'm afraid, but I don't have anyone it would be a fitting present for.

Attempting to make something fun or useful for someone with forethought and with the person in mind trumps most bought things if they aren't really well thought out.

#1 is really underrated. Just write on a piece of paper: "I'll take you to.." and then have a activity you feel confident they'll like or they can tick one of 3 boxes representing different eg. concerts/plays/sports/amusement parks.


I went to a Fab lab yesterday


You might be able to find one in your area using this map;




At my nearest one I can apparently only design advanced af biosensors, but I know a fab lab that's more like a normal fab lab which isn't listed. Good thing because the second nearest one is in the next country over, across a gulf. lel

Took a break from wrapping stuff I 3d printed at uni to write this. (see orange whistle thread)

What did you make?



A wax seal stamp, it works fine



Neat. Should make something like that myself.

File: 3ee7da0ac938a92⋯.jpg (3.63 MB, 2660x3335, 532:667, 20181212_135820.jpg)


I just recieved this thing with my newspaper subscription, but on the other side of the packcage it says it cant be connected for more than 2 hours straight without it cathing on fire.

What can i do to help it disipate heat?

Would electrical tape work?

1 post and 1 image reply omitted. Click reply to view.


If only the LEDs get warm you can limit the thermal paste to just under them. When done try it out - leave it on for 6h or so if you don't plan on leaving the room. Disconnect it temporarily if you leave for longer periods. Just have it running for a long enough time and check how warm it gets. You'll burn yourself if you touch a normal lamp, but the surrounding metal shouldn't be too hot while clearly cooling whatever gets warm.



Thanks for all the useful advice. I have tested and it seems that only after 50 mins the LEDs get too hot for me to even touch. So much for honest packaging



You're welcome. It's good that they mentioned it tho, rather than "perfect to hang in your christmas tree just before you go to work".

How will you mount or fix it? Each LED must have good conduction to an area of metal for heat dissipation. Any single one left alone or sloppily attached could cause a fire. I am not sure if glue between LED and metal has sufficient conductive properties. What's the plan?



Knowing my skills i think trying to make this thing work will take more time than its going to last after im done with it.



wrapping it with tissues doused in gas + powerbank makes a good fuse if nothing else. Start it and gtfo and in 1-2h things will happen.

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