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/diy/ - Do It Yourself


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Discussion of DIY related topics

File: 5fc84d5131ea4ae⋯.jpg (369.05 KB, 830x1024, 415:512, 473724525768745732323.jpg)


Hi! New BO here, I thought I’d list some links that could be of use.

Unit conversions, physics formulas, constants, standard dimensions, material properties and much more


Big tutorial link repository


Tips, tricks and blog about living in a vehicle


Various diy project walkthroughs



Build your own PC


Blog that feature various hacks and articles. Link is to the electronics repair-hacks section


Soap ingredient calculator


Tablet weaving tutorial


3D printer models for inspiration and downloaPost too long. Click here to view the full text.

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File: 418b4b9e9a4c315⋯.jpg (73.49 KB, 879x960, 293:320, 43424409_1917050418389003_….jpg)


Greetings and salutations

Here on the /diy/ board we discuss:

>Creating/building/crafting/constructing things by yourself

>Mending and repair

>Advice on tools, equipment and techniques related to diy

>Whatever else you think should be on this board

Porn is not diy. Gore is not diy. /pol/ is not diy. /k/ is not diy by itself, but building, repairing or servicing etc. any weapons is perfectly in line with this board.

Other sites that share our theme:

> https://lainchan.org/diy/

> http://boards.4chan.org/diy/

Enjoy your stay!

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I'm the new board owner and I'd like to welcome you and hope you'll enjoy your time here.

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File: 3ee7da0ac938a92⋯.jpg (3.63 MB, 2660x3335, 532:667, 20181212_135820.jpg)


I just recieved this thing with my newspaper subscription, but on the other side of the packcage it says it cant be connected for more than 2 hours straight without it cathing on fire.

What can i do to help it disipate heat?

Would electrical tape work?

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If only the LEDs get warm you can limit the thermal paste to just under them. When done try it out - leave it on for 6h or so if you don't plan on leaving the room. Disconnect it temporarily if you leave for longer periods. Just have it running for a long enough time and check how warm it gets. You'll burn yourself if you touch a normal lamp, but the surrounding metal shouldn't be too hot while clearly cooling whatever gets warm.



Thanks for all the useful advice. I have tested and it seems that only after 50 mins the LEDs get too hot for me to even touch. So much for honest packaging



You're welcome. It's good that they mentioned it tho, rather than "perfect to hang in your christmas tree just before you go to work".

How will you mount or fix it? Each LED must have good conduction to an area of metal for heat dissipation. Any single one left alone or sloppily attached could cause a fire. I am not sure if glue between LED and metal has sufficient conductive properties. What's the plan?



Knowing my skills i think trying to make this thing work will take more time than its going to last after im done with it.



wrapping it with tissues doused in gas + powerbank makes a good fuse if nothing else. Start it and gtfo and in 1-2h things will happen.

File: 6564d0937098253⋯.jpg (254.57 KB, 820x492, 5:3, Christmas-gifts-t.jpg)


Found this cool ideas for Christmas gifts . In case you planing tto make some gifts this year check it out !

Source: https://craftingzonee.com/10-diy-christmas-gift-ideas-that-you-can-create-in-no-time/


I've been considering going to a Fab Lab, those kinda places are more common now and they give you free access to tools like cnc tools and more. Its nice to be able to /diy/ christmas presents



The shell casing crystal looks fun. I'd be a conversation piece.

I have a few tools at my flat but there's a fab lab here too if I need heavier equipment. Dunno where I'd get crystal tho I'm afraid, but I don't have anyone it would be a fitting present for.

Attempting to make something fun or useful for someone with forethought and with the person in mind trumps most bought things if they aren't really well thought out.

#1 is really underrated. Just write on a piece of paper: "I'll take you to.." and then have a activity you feel confident they'll like or they can tick one of 3 boxes representing different eg. concerts/plays/sports/amusement parks.


I went to a Fab lab yesterday


You might be able to find one in your area using this map;




At my nearest one I can apparently only design advanced af biosensors, but I know a fab lab that's more like a normal fab lab which isn't listed. Good thing because the second nearest one is in the next country over, across a gulf. lel

Took a break from wrapping stuff I 3d printed at uni to write this. (see orange whistle thread)

What did you make?

File: 1c0e68a3525b099⋯.jpg (51.84 KB, 590x550, 59:55, diy-lightning-wand.jpg)



I'm doing a project attempting to miniturize a handheld van de graaff, just in case anyone's interested there's this link for a handheld van de graaff "shock staff" which can be used for some interesting things


I noticed there's also a pdf link in the comments (for those who can't access instructables for whatever reason)

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File: 07749541047c2ac⋯.png (698.15 KB, 1000x380, 50:19, plastic-ribbon.png)


I use clear tape to tape them together into one belt, it worked for the van de graaff I made before, so it shoulf work for this one

Its a bit longer than the support structure I might just cut it and tape the ends together onto it when I've fixed up the other roller properly



I imagine you have to be really precise with belt length since it isn't flexible. Is it difficult to produce an appropriate tension and thereby friction without damaging the belt or having a too high friction for the motor?


File: 73554b2ffa2ac37⋯.png (477.61 KB, 939x309, 313:103, plastic-belt.png)


Yeah, some precision is needed when using a plastic sheet like this, but it doesn't have to produce much friction, it just has to be touching. Its better to just have it fit so that it actually turns when the motor is running.

The belt is a bit long so I could've extended the support structure, but I'm just going to cut the belt down to make it fit. I'm still figuring out what to use for the other roller, it would be great if I found something better than aluminium this time


Apologies for the long delay, I had some other things to contend with. I'm still fixing up the project, so while I'm doing that, here's a link to a related article which I just found;




Interesting. Thanks!

File: 04874676a5de246⋯.png (51.91 KB, 242x273, 242:273, hitler lamp.png)


Just thought I would share a great project with you

Simple to make, very stylish

Suits any home



This exclusionary fixture offends me greatly.

What about the people who only see it at night, who will only see four lights? Remove high-luminocity bulbs and replace with LED strip with proper sharp corners, and for Adolf's sake turn that crank 45 degrees.


Besides, that lamp would just look out of place unless the rest of your home looks steampunk enough.

Great conversation piece tho. Replace bulb with blowtorches powerful enough to make it spin slowly and you'll certainly have my attention.


File: d16c35622a7a2eb⋯.jpg (325.9 KB, 1436x1080, 359:270, Madred,_four_lights.jpg)


>who will only see four lights?

Five lights*

File: db27b994c51d633⋯.jpg (125.56 KB, 1280x960, 4:3, photo5785391377041961070.jpg)


Greetings and salutations!

Christmas is closing in, and the best gift is the one you put your own sweat into. What are you making for gifts this year? Gifts you've made previous years are also welcome, perhaps they'll provide inspiration for other anons.

For starters I'm 3d-printing custom labeled emergency whistles in contrast colors for people who could have use for them like hunters. What should I use as string/rope?

File: 10cd33588607f7d⋯.png (52.54 KB, 940x529, 940:529, 5pb31-T2BAP852YQK-Full-Ima….png)


Inaugural Larry "Framing Father" Haun Edition

Post hack jobs, decent jobs, and questions related to making your shanty-tier hovel somewhat livable here.

I'll start, I recently bought a house that comes with a waterfront shed with attached dock. The foundation is pretty worn out because water, and will collapse relatively imminently, although I haven't gotten an engineer's opinion on it yet. My options are three, 1. reinforce the existing foundation with infill/cement, 2. disassemble the shed, put in a new foundation, and then rebuild, or 3. go full nigger and run the shed into the dirt (water, more specifically) and then rebuild from the ashes.

1 is probably the trickiest and probably most outside-labor intensive, as I'd probably need to get a structural engineer in and figure out exactly what to do. 2 sounds more labor intensive but I could easily do all of the demo and the rebuild, I would just need a better opinion on how to put in a new foundation. I'd also be able to salvage most of the existing shed. 3 is the cheapest, most dangerous, and easiest, so I'm leaning away from that option. What do?


Sort of depends on how it looks I guess, but I'd probably go with 2. with salvaging what could be of use and then breaking the rest for speed if it's to be thrown away or burned as firewood anyway. I'd probably not go with 1 except if only the foundation looks bad and it feels safe.

I'd avoid 3 if I'd think the rubble would be an obstruction later on or if it would be visibly ugly in the water.

If you bought a house you'd probably not regret putting in a new foundation. If the shed isn't that large you could combine a few youtube how-too's and then try to get someone's opinion on your plan if you're able to. Perhaps the staff where you'd buy the cement would have some experience?

Examine the ground around your shed, compare it with youtube videos and do a bit of research. Dig around a bit. Loose soil? mud? sand? Risk that it could slide down into the water?

I'd love to see how it looks.


Speaking of small enterable wooden (probably) constructions. I plan on building a wooden box to place a gyroplane in. It has to be quite small to fit inside the (cold-) hangar. The purpose is insulation for the ac and heating the air inside so that one can do service on it in the winter without freezing your fingers off. No need to include the rotor, I'll just have a hole for the mast.

I'll try to make it modular and perhaps with wheels so it can be moved, perhaps placed outdoors.



Thanks anon. I'm also leaning towards option 2, pending a structural engineer's opinion I'll get in a year or three. The foundation is pretty bad but I don't think it's going to collapse in the imminent future. A friend of mine recommended helical piles when I do decide to reconstruct. All in all it should be a fun project.

The house is also going to need a new roof in about 5 years at the soonest. How hard are metal roofs to DIY install? It's got classic asphalt shingles that I'll rip out, and the house is square so it's just a pyramid roof.


File: f6f35e6699743cb⋯.jpg (1.52 MB, 2064x1162, 1032:581, corrugated metal roof.jpg)


Any time.

Sounds sensible. In the meantime you can plan and look up how to do stuff. Helical piles sound like good advice.

I bet it will be fun. My days settling down and patching things up like this are still ahead, and I'm looking forward to them.

>metal roofs

From what I see when looking around they seem to be simple enough to install, and a good choice in most cases. Check the drawbacks and see if any would affect you especially, eg. it hails often. If you'll be working alone I'd borrow or rent efficient tools to save time and be very strict and consistent regarding safety.

I would have a glance at the following links for starters.





Youtube is also gold for eg. video instructions on laying it, to see if it should be within your abilities.

File: 5a78438ad4be302⋯.png (383.2 KB, 480x810, 16:27, 26992297_597841197214840_6….png)

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Entertaining jury-riggings, repairs, double-duty pullings, technical solutions. Brilliant and not so brilliant, thinking out of the box. “You do what you can with what you have”, making the best of a situation or just making things unnecessarily complicated.


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Only thing I can think of is that russian soldier using his PPSH as a seat.


File: 208ecdc3579e5a8⋯.jpg (113.75 KB, 729x1024, 729:1024, 049_tanke.jpg)

File: ece4098b88060bb⋯.jpg (155.71 KB, 1280x720, 16:9, not butter honest.jpg)


Hey anon, what are you up to?

I started making soap a few months ago for prepping purposes and just wanting to try.

For myself I don't need anything fancy, just a cheap working product from stuff that can always be expected to be readily available because they're locally produced. Canola is great as long as you don't try to make an oil lamp run on it.

I do, however, want a proper gift soap to give people I like - because home made gifts that have a proper everyday use are the best imo. The development of a good gift is where any fancy fats and fragrance go for me.

What are you making or working on? Is anyone alive in here to tell me only fags do soapmaking?

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Okay. Same here. Felt rather forced when they started shoehorning it in everywhere a few years ago.

Ok. Let's hope so.


File: c7cb0a4217c30b6⋯.png (5.79 KB, 1014x270, 169:45, tablet-weaving-pattern.png)

Links for getting into tablet weaving;




For the lighter color I turn it up every other line and for the dark color I turn it up when I turn up on the cards that are supposed to be dark color at the same time the other cards are light color

When first figuring this out I made a mistake which made the threads not weave properly. The mistake I was making was going to the same position of dark and light color holes in between, but they should alternate so that it makes this pattern (see pic). Going back to the same state as before works like undoing it. With double faced weaving like this, pretty much any pattern can be made, top line shows light threads up and bottom shows dark threads up (think of it like a computer with LED's and like LED lit is light thread while LED off is dark) this is showing the pattern for 2 cards (changing states going from left to right) but you can have as many cards as you like (it will affect the width of the result)



Thank you for this! This is going in the link repository.

I've wanted to be able to do weaving to some extent. Especiall strong ribbons/ropes can always be of use.

I shall certainly look into this. What if I was boring and wanted a strong ribbon 1-2cm wide in a single color, would it be much faster compared to careful patterning?

I'll certainly do patterns later but may want to mass-produce straps for bags and such.



Its not that much more difficult to widen the band, if the threads are thick then you need less cards threaded than if the threads are thinner.



Okay, i'll keep that in mind. Hope to find the time to try at some point.

File: 0d73fae51a7bf01⋯.png (271.9 KB, 600x347, 600:347, 1535926337785.png)



I need to build a furnace capable of melting small amounts of steel to be turned into ingots. All I've found are either overly large pre-built furnaces that costs many thousands of dollars, or crap school-project level ones that can't handle more than aluminum. Is something like this possible to build for less than $1000? $2000? I'm broke as fuck.

God help me. Thanks.



Speaking from no previous experience and at a glance, steel seems to require a rather high temperature (twice that of aluminium) to melt. Perhaps the most economic and quick solution is to just try to melt it into one piece and then hammer it into an ingot?

This guy seem to have melted steel with his contraption, and I can't think of a cheaper option. It's not pretty, but do you have the option of heating and reshaping the block of reclaimed steel on an anvil afterwards?




>It's not pretty, but do you have the option of heating and reshaping the block of reclaimed steel on an anvil afterwards?

I haven't considered this before, but I might give it a shot. I don't need the pieces to be pretty, as I plan on milling the ingots themselves into parts and recycling the scrap. Are there any major downsides to this? Or at least any that I can't compensate for.



If you plan on milling the pieces afterwards, perhaps you'd be reshaping your parts by heating and hammering anyway.

At a glance, my main worry with this method would be the inhomogineity of the metal at first, and the risk that you incorporate air bubbles in the metal when hammering it afterwards.

However, it's entirely possible that heating enough and hammering completely removes any air bubbles as you even out the metal. Especially if you hammer it out once to a thinner disc at first. Perhaps this is a complete non-issue after reshaping. Look at his result, I'd say that's pretty good and that the integrity of any part I could make out of that wouldn't be compromised by any air bubbles that could remain. Just a thought. That guy has a large channel so he might not see a comment asking this, but if you ask your friend google/wikipedia/that smith you know it'd be common metalwork knowledge.

Otherwise it could take a bit more time, setting it up each time, dismantling and picking out the steel, and then doing lots of reshaping. Nevertheless, I don't feel it would be a dela breaker if you're efficient which I'm sure you are. Everything is a trade-off. If I come up with anything else I'll let you know.

As I said, I have no previous experience, but this looks like the cheapest, simplest and most importaintly safest option to solve your problem. I would give it a try. Just find a way to get it hot enough, protect yourself and update us on your experiments and progress because this is quite interesting.


In case anyone ends up here looking for similar answers, I've fully decided to switch gears to forging ingots instead of casting them.


Another thing I didn't know about was powdered steel, which I can use to fill the gaps between bits of scrap to help eliminate air bubbles as shown in the video.



Just finished gasping at that amaizing blade.

Man, should I ever get ready access to the equipment to do blacksmithing and few enough obligations.. boy it would be christmas every single day.

My home town is an old mining town. The soil is purple and red due to ferric compounds. It was a joke at first but I'm geting more and more serious about extracting iron directly from the soil if possible and making stuff out of it, viking style.

Could you show how your ingots turn out and perhaps the tools and machines you used to make them?

File: 1454931946385.jpeg (71.81 KB, 750x545, 150:109, Flashlights.jpeg)


Quick jobs to keep the household operating smoothly are the diy-ers near and butter. Post your quick fixes in this thread. Bonus points if they are negligible cost.

5 posts and 3 image replies omitted. Click reply to view.



keep up the good work bro.

The key to soldering is to learn now to "tin". add a little solder first to all your surfaces including the iron, and keep that tip clean with one of those metal scourer thingies for washing your dishes.


File: 04564dd73ba7593⋯.jpg (1.92 MB, 3264x2448, 4:3, 20171224_153046.jpg)

I made a lamp.

I love these threads, as hasty fixes have the perfect combination of ingenuity and recklessnes



If you touched that with your fingers, would you die?


File: 308c9a872fa4135⋯.jpg (2.45 MB, 4640x3480, 4:3, IMG_20171013_034511_01_01.jpg)

No money to buy an expansive lamp. Made one from budweiser cardboard.



very nice

File: 33dec3c8e7905b8⋯.jpg (55.11 KB, 1000x1000, 1:1, 51ALEEGRgLL._SL1000_.jpg)

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File: da0563829f7b45f⋯.jpg (176.58 KB, 1757x1547, 251:221, In-Out-Lettertray.jpg)


Table of Contents:

1. Why I want to make this

2. What I want to make

3. My idea

4. My tools

5. My question

1. Why I want to make this

I fail at managing my In and Outcoming mail and notes for things that need to be done. It gets mixed up with all kinds of notes, and receipts and such. So I want to have an stacked In-Out Box as you would see in caricatures of offices. But I want them stacked because of space constraints and spaced because just put on top the space is not enough for little objects that need repair or something else and I had to reach to the end for a note I could not do that without taking off the top and possibly stuff falling off there.

2. What I want to make

The boxes I get for 6,90 plus shipping of amazon made of bamboo (See first 3 pictures). I want to make the Spacers between the boxes. The material should be wood and if possible they should not be fixed in the sense that I can disassemble the entire thing quickly and without tools if possible. So I would prefer a form closure, or tight fit (I find no definitive translation for the german "Formschluss").

3. My idea

See Picture 4. I get a wooden board. Something like 1 inch by 1/2 inch. Or 2 cm by 1 cm and cut them down to rectancles of around 20cm length. Then cut out the parts where the boxes fit.

Put the spacers over the walls of the lower box to hold them and put the upper box onto that.

4. My tools

I could lend a jigsaw from a relative.

I got hammer, screwdrivers, an adjustable wrench and too much time

5. My question

My question is of course if you got any better ideas to fulfill my need for an In-Out Box. It only needs to be cheap and therefore also almost toolless as I have almost none and no money or space in my apartment to store anything bigger than hammers and screwdrivers.



I'd make several of these and attach them on top of eachother to have "in", "out", "save for later" etc. piles. Perhaps add small pieces of wood out in the sides 6cm tall starting half way up for easy stacking of several.

Go for it, it's a great idea and if you come up with something else these could be of use elsewhere. I could use something similar myself.

File: b9dc3be91490b55⋯.jpg (2.72 MB, 4128x2322, 16:9, Bones - Cleaned and Dryed.jpg)

File: 55fe164d307e8a9⋯.jpg (2.45 MB, 4000x3000, 4:3, Scrimshaw 01.jpg)

File: ce461292dd6e8fa⋯.jpg (1.7 MB, 2770x2200, 277:220, Siège_du_château_d'amour.jpg)


I'm trying to get into scrimshaw, but since I don't have access to whale teeth or ivory I plan on using regular cow bones. I got some at the butcher's and after spending a good deal of time cleaning them they are pretty much free of soft organic material and after being left out in the sun/wind for a couple of days they are nearly bone dry (just a bit of smell still).

Today I tried making a simple design on the surface with a box cutter blade, and then tried to develop on that with some minor carving. Now, I worked on bones years ago with my father, but we never did anything more complex than napkin rings and a letter opener. the surface seems to be more fibrous than I remember.

Do I need to sand/plane more of the surface to reach a layer of consistent material, or is it like that all the way down?

Do you have any advice for working with this type of medium?

Do you have any experience with this kind of carving?

What kind of materials/pigments are used on scrimshaws?

(Yes, I know that scrimshaws and bone carvings are different things, but if the former doesn't work out I can just sand it over it and move on to carving, or something like that)


File: 5ef601d49304e76⋯.jpg (81.4 KB, 842x792, 421:396, 1516230937192.jpg)


I used to carve cheese and soap. Delicious.


One day during a walk in the forest with my dad, we found an old bone, it was apparently here for a long time since it was really clean.

We took it home, my dad had the idea to cut it and use it as a knife handle or something.

It turns out Bone is hard to cut (I guess carving is more doable) he used a Angle Grinder to cut it, wich resulted into chipping it. After a closer examination, the bone was too frail to be used for anything we had in mind.

Tho, the horrible smell of Burned Bone lasted for days.

To touch, I'd say it was kinda polished, tho some scrubbing with light sandpaper would have been desirable.

Hope this will help. Sorry, we did nothing further, when we realized the bone was barely usable, we just threw it.



It takes a long ass time to do it right, but you CAN do it. Really you just gotta boil the shit out it, let it dry, rinse and repeat until it's basically bleached, then you can carve it into whatever you want. If you want to

>Do I need to sand/plane more of the surface to reach a layer of consistent material, or is it like that all the way down?

Unless there's still some flesh attached, no. The outer most layer is the best layer for carving

>Advice for working with this medium

Patience and planning are very important. also you want a fucking RAZOR sharp knife that's also sturdy, but small enough to get the fine detail. You're going to want multiple types of tools if you're going to get serious about this.

>Do you have any experience

Not for a few years, but I carved bones and wood all the fucking time when I was a boy scout.

>What kind of materials/pigments are used

Depends on what you want to do.


Never, EVER use power tools on bone or antler. All it does is ruin your material and stink up your garage. ONLY use hand tools. Also you don't want to use bones more than about 6 months to a year old. They get too brittle.


YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.


Forgot to helpful embed a video I found

File: c95d92b378b1376⋯.jpg (67.12 KB, 1920x1080, 16:9, SIw311x.jpg)


hou Yave veen bisited thy be moot of mead Boards

If rou are yeading mis thessage bave broard thaveler, tren theed he strollowing infuction;

lood Guck and wosperity prill tome co bou, yut only if rou yepost thris thead mo 1 or tore other bead doard(s)


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