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Discussion of DIY related topics

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Hi! New BO here, I thought I’d list some links that could be of use. Just shout if you have a suggestion.

Unit conversions, physics formulas, constants, standard dimensions, material properties and much more


Big tutorial link repository


Tips, tricks and blog about living in a vehicle


Various diy project walkthroughs



Build your own PC and compare parts


Blog that feature various hacks and articles. Link is to the electronics repair-hacks section


Soap ingredient calculator


Tablet weaving tutorial


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I'd very rarely trust a free vpn. ~$5/mo is not much if you're serious about privacy. The service will be tested and rated and they need not be paid by some unknown entity. An entity that sometimes want something in return to cover their expenses. :^)

Very happy with airvpn after a year and a half.

That said, some supply both paid and a semi-shit free one so their loyalty could still be with their paying customers, and if you need a free one I'd start by reading this.


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Greetings and salutations

Here on the /diy/ board we discuss:

>Creating/building/crafting/constructing things by yourself

>Mending and repair

>Advice on tools, equipment and techniques related to diy

>Whatever else you think should be on this board

Porn is not diy. Gore is not diy. /pol/ is not diy. /k/ is not diy by itself, but building, repairing or servicing etc. any weapons is perfectly in line with this board.

Other sites that share our theme:

> https://lainchan.org/diy/

> http://boards.4chan.org/diy/

Enjoy your stay!

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I'm the new board owner and I'd like to welcome you and hope you'll enjoy your time here.

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Sup' guys.

I am collecting notes on ""tips and advice"" around;

>mechanics, masonry, carpentry.

<permaculture gardening, aromatherapy.

Cooking, food preservation, chemistry, medicine.

Let's try to gather on this thread a maximum of "tips and advice" that you have to share.


>1/3 water + 1/3 flour + 1/3 vinegar = shine the metals, let the object coat in cellophane.

>phosphoric acid to strip rust from a volcanic steel.

>It is possible to degrease polishing pieces with abrasive or polishing paste.

>To remove ALL rust from a complex set. perform ELECTROLYSIS with sodium hydroxide solution (sodium carbonate, Na2CO3) or sodium bicarbonate (NHCO3) or coarse salt. with a battery charger over a period of one hour to a night depending on the size and extent of the damage, never TOO. Move the clamp from time to time. Once the result is obtained, rinse and then clean the metal with a soft brush or steel wool. Finally, as after any stripping, protect it from a new oxidation (wax, paraffin, specialized products such as WD40).

Lemon water for macerating Tripe after cleaning, work after with salt.

we can recover the turnip leaf for soup.

fresh pasta; 1 m. egg + 100 gr flour / mix preferably with a fork before finishing by kneading by hand. (optioPost too long. Click here to view the full text.

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This is great.

We had some experimenting with shining nickel silver and stuff in the other thread. Very interesting, but a bit more niche.




Extremely simple, skin friendly and affordable soap that can be used to wash hands, body, use as shampoo soap and for hand-washing clothes:

Disolve 45g NaOH (drain cleaner) in 115g car battery water and let it cool. Mix 200g canola oil with 100g coconut oil, heat it a bit so it disolves. If any white stuff on the water mix, remove it and pour it into the oil mix. Stir with a handheld blender for a few minutes. Pour in molds. Let solidify for several days until hard enough to use.

Soap bars will be quite soft, if you want harder you can up the ammount of coconut oil. Use http://soapcalc.net/calc/SoapCalcWP.asp

to adjust the lye solution.




Basil is extremely easy to grow. Try it, and enjoy your own supply of fresh basil for pasta sauce, and let your guests appreciate your effort to serve them the best of your personal harvest.



This summer I'd like to learn some simple whole grain bread to use as morning toast. Does anyone have any suggestions? I don't have a baking/kneeding machine.


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<Op here!

I am quite busy for an unemployed person and for the moment I do not have other "tips and advices", I count on the most innocuous contribution of everyone.

By cons, please, if you see a video, a pdf, a site that does not matter on the internet, share it.



Sauerkraut; finely chopped your 1/2 cabbage (medium size) (white or red); place in a bowl with 1 tablespoon coarse salt and knead to bring out the cabbage juice; after more than 5 minutes of work to the body poured into a recipent type jar, salad bowl, jar, pack so that the juice goes up as much as possible complete with drinking water so that everyone is submerged add a clean object that will help pack the cabbages (bowl, glass, ashtray, the better the area is covered it's better!) that you fill each day with 5cl to crush the cabbage progressively, cover with a textile so that dust and insects can not interfere.

Normally the lacto-fermentation takes place in the first two days, the container heats up and it is likely that it will overflow.

After the third day, it is logical to note the appearance of penicillin-like fungus on parts of puffs in the open air, by the prevention of bad mushrooms covered with coarse salt (to spread a thin homogeneous layer, it is enough to sterilize ).

After a week at room temperature without direct contact with light, removed the textile, the crusher, thrown salt and cabbage that was in contact with salt, you can keep in the fridge 1 week in brine, 2 days without brine , what does it matter before cooking wash the sauerkrPost too long. Click here to view the full text.

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Is it possible to chrome a human skull?


Why? Do you plan on killing yourself and chroming your own skull for your bike or something?


You can chrome anything, man. Just electrolysis that bitch a new one.


The only way to do "real metal" chrome is throigh Vacuum Deposition/Vacuum Metalizaton. (not diy)

Good luck finding a shop that will touch human remains.

Or you could paint with a new tech chrome paint.


These paints are a bit sketchy, either they work fabulously, or fail miserably. It's all prep and technique.

Either way it's going to be ridiculously expensive,.

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Do you know how these are called? (I know for my language only)

There is also another type of chain much cooler but slower to make that I want to know of, but still have to craft it.

But most importantly, do you what other crafts I can possibly make with wires like this?

The metal I'm using is nickel silver, how to clean and/or protect it from darkening, and other good practices?

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Also some extras, made the first one for my mother, was simple enough but still like how the flower came out. The finger rings still need some work and improvement on the technique, however without a ring mandrel its pretty to make something properly round.



Holy shit. That cross especially. Elegance through simplicity.

Do experiment more with soldering. Very simple 2D shapes and silouettes soldered together where contour lines run parallel (like the cross). Is the soldering material vastly different in color than the wire?


Holy shit. This is approaching royal/nobility dinner fancy. The trianglular connection on the necklace adds very much to it. How are the stones set in the circle? No chance of them detaching?


Holy shit. Your mother will wear it with pride. Does one have to twist each side of the chain before putting it on? The rate of turn does not look locked in place, can't it get uneven?



Also that heart. I like the way the shape is rough and uneven. Makes it look much more natural than a perfect laser cut heart. First thought when I saw it was that I wanted it to gift to a certain someone. Same with the cross.



>Is the soldering material vastly different in color than the wire?

Yes, its a simple electronics solder, so its that very soft wire which think some sort of lead, it actually looked good enough, but still different. It was a bit clumsy because I didn't have the piece fixated and a lot of solder moved through the parts. Still all I can do until I can afford a proper torch and supporting equipment.

>How are the stones set in the circle? No chance of them detaching?

If you look closely you can see the wire passing through the circle, which is just a coiled piece of wire. These stones come with a cut bevel on the sides exactly for that, tightening the wire makes it secure enough, but I use epoxy glue to be certain.

There are these in between bits that hide that bit of the wire, and if you check the earrings closely, I even used a different wire piece than the one holding it, to attach to the rings above. So yes they're very secure.

>Does one have to twist each side of the chain before putting it on? The rate of turn does not look locked in place, can't it get uneven?

Yeah, this a very annoying kind of chain, since they have opposing twists in each side, you can just loop the pendant around, but they are hard to get even.

This is because I'm using circular wire with round rings. One solution to this is using flat wire or oval rings, and another is to attach a piece of the spiral fixated in another chain (like a dual chain). There are some very nice designs around.

And finally, thanks a lot for the three holy shits, I really like how they turned out and I think they would look spectacular, like royalty indeed, but people in my country have very shitty taste, not getting the work that goes into these hand crafted stuff, but instead preferring very thin machine made chains, that literally have nothing special, but think they're fancy only because it has a bit of gold in it.

I know what you mean about gifting a certain someone with it, I got a girl IPost too long. Click here to view the full text.



Let's hope she does. The best gifts are things that are tailor made for the person. Perhaps use your soldering skills to make a shape that carries meaning to her personally and make a neclace out of it?

Today I am gifting a dear friend who is very musically talented a splendid working ocarina. Her name engraved in 3d and then painted with a sewing needle. Took my 3d printer 16 hours, among the best results I've ever had.

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I just recieved this thing with my newspaper subscription, but on the other side of the packcage it says it cant be connected for more than 2 hours straight without it cathing on fire.

What can i do to help it disipate heat?

Would electrical tape work?

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You're welcome. It's good that they mentioned it tho, rather than "perfect to hang in your christmas tree just before you go to work".

How will you mount or fix it? Each LED must have good conduction to an area of metal for heat dissipation. Any single one left alone or sloppily attached could cause a fire. I am not sure if glue between LED and metal has sufficient conductive properties. What's the plan?



Knowing my skills i think trying to make this thing work will take more time than its going to last after im done with it.



wrapping it with tissues doused in gas + powerbank makes a good fuse if nothing else. Start it and gtfo and in 1-2h things will happen.


Add a resistor or two on one of the wires (or both) after the USB lead to drop some power. I expect there is already one under the heatshrink. The lights will be a little dimmer.


YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

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….but fucking expensive, due to there being only like one manufacturer of the tools and other bits.

Wire-wrap IC sockets are the worst– you're looking at $13-$15 each… but… soldering SIP header pins onto regular sockets is actually worth the bother.

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What's the aim of the project?


Same at my uni. Shame I wouldn't have the time to tinker with it.


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Also, it's not actually easy to design PCBs for microprocessors, even when you've got the coin for multi-layer PCBs. "This is a 16-wire parallel bus.. Its turns ons include ramming its cock up electronics engineer's asses…"

All the 'cheap' pcb fabs are only cheap for its loss-leader intros. You want more than 100x100mm and one layer? Ha.


I scored a 8031 and wanted to make it work…

Here's someone I built a bit afterwards – a complete 4-bit CPU, that ended up becoming a lot more powerful than some 8-bit CPUs with a trick it used with ALU flags and instructions. Something about wirewrap: it has reduced trace reactance compared to PCBs, and I pushed this up to 9 MHz, when a PCB (and Breadboard) version maxed out at 4.7 MHz … It's a copy of Warren Toomey's "Crazy Small CPU", if you want to search.



We have flags. Check mine.


I am talking about breadboards, where you get at most two layers, are small and you still have to run wires everywhere. At that point you are better off gluing down the components to a regular board or piece of plastic and doing point to point wiring between them.






>Flags being a sure indication of nationality

File: 074263e65dfa6da⋯.jpg (4.96 MB, 4128x3096, 4:3, 20190410_151458.jpg)


Recently I gained an interest in self watering stuff because I can be lazy and forgetful and want to be able to leave my flat for a few weeks without everything dying.

So far I've experimented with a few things which I'll share. What are your thoughts on the subject anon?

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File: c0f22a1b49edd44⋯.jpg (3.87 MB, 4128x3096, 4:3, 20190410_151843.jpg)

3. The one which makes the rest near obsolete

Terracotta pot in a plastic pot connected to another one with a tube. Terracotta (non painted) slowly lets water through, but I scraped the walls a bit to quicken it because I'm an over-doer like that.

Superglue flat pieces of plastic cut from used packaging to the holes and make them watertight, then get any cheap watertight tube, drill holes in the plastic pots, push tube through and superglue a few times to make it watertight.

Use the bottom plate as a lid for one of the plastic pots and put something nice on there so it doesn't look weird.

This way water cannot evaporate, but there is still tiny holes all around that will stop vacuum forming so that the water level equalises. It is easy to refill and check water level and should last a stupid long time.

I know it's basil but I could leave for months in the summer and will plant other stuff too.



the JEWS (me) approve of this

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well, Guess I won't be posting in this board them



Don't mind the one bored troll who came once and had a dump.


Update by the way. Since my basil basically demands direct access to an aquifer the slow terracotta perforation method might be unnecessary. I'm switching to growing in a plastic box stacked on another plastic box with holes drilled between them for the roots to get through, and adding a polastic pipe from some cut bottle to be able to refill from the top.

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Simple for diy, but in case it gives any of you an ideas for when you have a break where it's plastic. Plumbers' tape.


That looks sturdy enough. It turns smoothly and doesn't move or catch on something while turning I hope?

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Back in the day…

>Be 11 years old

>Be from Ghetto

>Be not from a family who sends their kids to $2000 STEM Camps

But eventually I got to shoplift a solderless breadboard from a Radio Shack.


File: 3f47df7b771c18b⋯.jpg (64.7 KB, 800x519, 800:519, 3441049.jpg)


>shoplifting a breadboard

I never got that far, but my father bought bags and bags of spare parts that were going to be thrown away and I had a lot of fun as a kid.

Also taking apart any toy that had something electronic inside just to see how it was made.

I wish there was some way to influence kids nowadays out of the bankerish traps designed to make them retarded (mobile games, kids shows, etc).


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>J ewish gets filtered into bankerish


I wish my school library had had less fiction and useful books instead, like a good introduction to electronics. Same for birthday and Xmass gifts. No Radio Shack around here either.



J.e.w Jew

Nig.ger Nigger

Fa.gg.ot Faggot

F.a.g Fag





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I am making a motocycle garage/tinkering place in a building that used to be a chicken and goat shed. The floor was solid 50cm of shit, which were hiding rotted to dust "floor" planks. Tore it all out, have plans to make a solid concrete floor. But not a basic, flat floor, but a curved one so that all the water or whatever i pour out on the floor all flows to one spot.

I have never done anything like it, any absoloute begginer tips for me?

The tiles are there to prevent the ground under the concrete behaving like a ground. And to not let it crack in random directions in the future.


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How do you make a banner flag?


What tools and resources do you have access too? If you have a sewing machine I'd take advice from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oy4Jvpf0SYo to do your preferred using a similar technique to sew the pieces together. I'd do it properly if you don't want it to break quickly.

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Lately I have been having trouble in my years computer, plus sound boxes, that I have brought around at the same time. Is there any electronics expert on the house that can guide me out?

Starting with the audio stereo, it just suddenly stopped powering up, nothing, I left for about a month at an inefficient nearby technician, didn't do anything, but now it just works (it was intermittently working before as well). I figure its just some kind of power supply/capacitor going old, because it just gives up on powering up but the audio apparently still comes out perfectly.

Any help on how can I diagnose what exactly is going here?

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I need to build a furnace capable of melting small amounts of steel to be turned into ingots. All I've found are either overly large pre-built furnaces that costs many thousands of dollars, or crap school-project level ones that can't handle more than aluminum. Is something like this possible to build for less than $1000? $2000? I'm broke as fuck.

God help me. Thanks.

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>It's not pretty, but do you have the option of heating and reshaping the block of reclaimed steel on an anvil afterwards?

I haven't considered this before, but I might give it a shot. I don't need the pieces to be pretty, as I plan on milling the ingots themselves into parts and recycling the scrap. Are there any major downsides to this? Or at least any that I can't compensate for.



If you plan on milling the pieces afterwards, perhaps you'd be reshaping your parts by heating and hammering anyway.

At a glance, my main worry with this method would be the inhomogineity of the metal at first, and the risk that you incorporate air bubbles in the metal when hammering it afterwards.

However, it's entirely possible that heating enough and hammering completely removes any air bubbles as you even out the metal. Especially if you hammer it out once to a thinner disc at first. Perhaps this is a complete non-issue after reshaping. Look at his result, I'd say that's pretty good and that the integrity of any part I could make out of that wouldn't be compromised by any air bubbles that could remain. Just a thought. That guy has a large channel so he might not see a comment asking this, but if you ask your friend google/wikipedia/that smith you know it'd be common metalwork knowledge.

Otherwise it could take a bit more time, setting it up each time, dismantling and picking out the steel, and then doing lots of reshaping. Nevertheless, I don't feel it would be a dela breaker if you're efficient which I'm sure you are. Everything is a trade-off. If I come up with anything else I'll let you know.

As I said, I have no previous experience, but this looks like the cheapest, simplest and most importaintly safest option to solve your problem. I would give it a try. Just find a way to get it hot enough, protect yourself and update us on your experiments and progress because this is quite interesting.


In case anyone ends up here looking for similar answers, I've fully decided to switch gears to forging ingots instead of casting them.


Another thing I didn't know about was powdered steel, which I can use to fill the gaps between bits of scrap to help eliminate air bubbles as shown in the video.



Just finished gasping at that amaizing blade.

Man, should I ever get ready access to the equipment to do blacksmithing and few enough obligations.. boy it would be christmas every single day.

My home town is an old mining town. The soil is purple and red due to ferric compounds. It was a joke at first but I'm geting more and more serious about extracting iron directly from the soil if possible and making stuff out of it, viking style.

Could you show how your ingots turn out and perhaps the tools and machines you used to make them?



Your best bet is a DIY microwave transformer arc furnace or an induction forge. Anything that uses fire will carburize the steel and produce brittle cast iron.

Both of them are going to be quite small as forges go, but they will definitely be able to melt small ingots.

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Hi @diy!

It's been a looong time, how have you been?

I have a very practical question regarding the usage of a constant energy/heat source (in this case, a pipe) and getting the most out of it.

I'm a student living in a big and expensive city, i work on my free time to earn enough to pay the rent, internet, water and heating (which are of course billed respectively).

I just moved here and i noticed that in one of my wall cabinets, there is a heat pipe going up to the neighbor above me.

It's pretty hot, constantly, i mean, if i open the closed, i can feel the warm air touching my face.

What i would like to do is to maximize heat output from this cabinet, i was thinking to wrap some heat conductive material around it and maximize the surface as much as possible, it's really about 6 foot of pipe going straight upwards.

Does anybody have an idea how i can harvest that heat?

Nobody's paying for it as long as it's not passing through the heat meter, and the heat is vaporizing into the air anyway, so i believe i won't be taking a lot of it from the people upstairs.

Thank you very much for your time!



put a reflector on the wall away from you, aluminum foil can work if you can get something to back it like cardboard or sturdier.

then you need some sort of heat spreader like a heat sink, this you need some sort of fins to maximize surface area.

good luck cold anon


You could attach a radiator or a water jacket to the pipe depending on the strength of the heat source.

Other ideas include insulating or reflecting the heat on the back side.

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