No.154
Tips, tricks, and advice about (almost) all your protective coating needs.
Do multi-part paint systems (e.g. epoxy/poly) intimidate you?
>I can help get you set up with the right equipment.
Worried about how to properly prep the work piece?
>It's not nearly as hard as you think it is.
Do you track paint all over the shop/garage because you're a sloppy motherfucker?
>Yo, I can help with that too.
I want to keep your budget low, your productivity high, and waste minimal. I want your projects to look good and reflect positively on you. I want to help give you something you can be proud of.
I also do thermal coatings (zinc) if there is any interest in that.
Painting isn't easy,
>but it sure as hell ain't hard.
No.155
Rebuilt loading ramp. These things get the shit beat outta them so nothing exotic here.
One coat, roughly 3 mils dry, of rustoleum primer over the entire ramp. Two coats D.T.M. safety yellow rolled on the working surface and hand rails, 1.5 mils(each coat) wet dries to about 1mil. Everything below deck was sprayed with an airless, so I probably built it up to 3-3.5mils.
No.156
This is a large compressor for an ice generator on a trailer.
Osha safety blue DTM
>un-thinned
Rolled and brushed.
No.157
This is a large ammonia receiver tank, 8'x 53'
Original epoxy coating chalking all over and failing in some spots. I dont have finished pics yet though.
>sanded entire tank.
>Bad spots taken down to raw metal.
>Spot primed with epoxy.
>re=primed with larger patches 4 hrs later.
>12hrs later entire tank coated with a 2 part poly to fully encapsulate.
No.158
Same tank but I wanted to show what a bad patch job looks like.
No.161
Ditch the tray and liner for your next paint job and work out of a bucket. It's cleaner and less prone for an accident. Plus, you can pour the amount you need so its less fucking around. If you're working with paint that doesn't cure fast, you can work right out of the original container. These grids are cheap, I try to get a couple of uses out of them if its for cheap paint or in non-critical jobs. If I'm laying down quality, then it's all new consumables. I also never re-use roller covers.
No.162
A buck or three extra for your equipment will make a world of difference not only in your work, but also in clean up. Wooster, Whizz, and Purdy are my trusted brands. Quality paint frames are far superior in keeping paint out of where you need it least, and that's important in multi part systems. The reason being; When you're going full bore, you cant really stop. I'll change covers when they start to harden, splash some MEK on the frame, and keep going.
Quality matters here, but like my father always says,
>"a poor craftsman always blames his tools".
No.163
Different cover material for different paints and surfaces.
Don't think you know better than the manufacture!
If it says it's for smooth surface urethanes it wont work real well laying epoxy.
Protip
When/if bubbles form in the coating (temp variation of product and substrate, ect.) I'll use the velour covers to "tip off" the paint. That is, roll it dry and lightly, popping the bubbles so the paint levels out.
No.164
This is a pic of my home bucket. Pretty much just the basics. Nail sets, chisels, bamboo stir sticks, scrapers, ect.
Mostly Harbor Freight shit, to be honest. I dont use it much and usually just for small projects.
No.194
How tough is anodising? I once had a Maverick MTB frame in my bench vise to dissasemble (rear strut was ded) and after I was done, I was amazed that the area where the clamp is, there was no damage at all?