/handyman/ - Handyman

THE MOST COMMON ISSUES WHEN YOUR CAR WON'T START

Just the way I wrote it folks.
Battery - Alternator / Starter

BATTERY
When you go to start your car and all you get is:
1. a single click
2. multiple clicking
3. attempted ignition that slows down the longer you hold the key

More often than not its the battery.

The clicking is your starter engaging but your battery is not providing enough juice to turn the starter - and by extension the engine.

Your battery could be:
1. temporarily dead - you just need a jump
2. no longer holding enough charge - replace battery

*Some handheld voltmeters/ battery testers don't always single out the battery. Current (cold-cranking amps) is what engages your starter, NOT VOLTAGE. A defective battery can show proper voltage of 12 V, but not if there are enough Amps.***

THE MOST COMMON ISSUES WHEN YOUR CAR WON'T START

Just the way I wrote it folks.
Battery - Alternator / Starter

ALTERNATOR / STARTER
Just a little tutorial

STARTER - usually located near the bottom and rear of engine. It engages your flywheel with a small gear/plunger when you start your car. This is how the starter "turns" your engine over.

If your battery is fine and you still have starting issues / "clicks" its most likely the starter.

ALTERNATOR - Front of engine, location varies. Apart of your belt pulley assembly. While your engine is running, the alternator pulley is turned producing electricity. Its like a mini-generator. Its purpose is recharging your battery to full so you have enough charge for additional engine starts. The alternator also provides most to all electricity your car needs while running.

If your battery is good, but keeps draining / won't recharge its most likely the alternator.

Another symptom of a bad alternator is while the car is running you notice your lights dim like there is a drain / not enough juice. But this can be attributed to the battery as well.

THE MOST COMMON ISSUES WHEN YOUR CAR WON'T START

Just the way I wrote it folks.
Battery - Alternator / Starter

ALWAYS REMEMBER THIS ORDER
Battery - Alternator / Starter

Its a logical progression to get said components checked in this order.

You can have these parts tested (sometimes without even removing them) at your local parts store.
AUTOZONE
ADVANCE AUTO PARTS
etc
etc

>>3
Generally good advice, but timing chains aren't invincible. They can and will fail with neglect, which should go without saying. My point being oil changes are crucial to the longevity of any engine.

>>4
>Go automatic
For the average person, on a newer (<10 years old) car, that's probably a true statement.

>Remember to change your automatic transmission fluid every 100K miles AT THE LATEST.
>AT THE LATEST
At the absolute latest. Your transmission will last a lot longer changing the transmission fluid every 50k.
>Some cars you'll have to take off the pan at the bottom of the transmission to get at the filter.
DON'T BE INTIMIDATED ITS NOT AS HARD AS YOU THINK
Not a hard job, yet not a job for an amateur. Let's try to keep things more amateur oriented for now.

>Carfax.com
A good place to start, but not the end-all be-all.


Your no-start advice is pretty much spot on. All I can think of to add right now is the ignition coil. I recently had one fail on a car I owned, so it's something that can cause a no-start condition. Granted, that was a high miles car, but it could happen to anybody.

http://www.carcomplaints.com/worst_vehicles/

lol all those ford explorers

So Ford can't even do trucks right anymore.

Word of advice stay away from Ford (american in general).

There's a reason why Fords make up the top of that list.

>>20

What's even better is when your sunroof dies, and its closed all the way.
>ah good at least its not leaking

Then you find out its drain pipes are clogged.

And the only way to get to those pipes to unclog them….is with the sunroof open.

After about the third rainstorm I just silicon gel sealed around the entire rim of the sunroof outside.

It was an old car and I was not paying $400 to replace the sunroof motor.

An excellent video on how brakes generally work (disc or drum)

Just remember, if you are replacing:
DISC BRAKES - pads, maybe rotors
DRUM BRAKES - shoes, maybe drums

Pads and shoes obviously wear down quicker, every 50 - 60K.

Rotors usually last awhile longer, 100K+ and should only be replaced when needed.

Drums last a LONG time and should only be replaced when needed.

>>19
To be fair, most Ford Explorers (and SUVs in general) are owned by soccer moms and the like who know jack fuck about cars. I have no experience with newer Explorers, so I can't judge personally, but that's my thought.

>>20
There is nothing wrong with a sunroof as long as it is maintained properly. Like you said, dirt will find it's way into the drain holes, which will either lead to water inside your car, or rust, or both. A sunroof is a maintenance item, but many don't realize that.
>>21
>>ah good at least its not leaking
Having a sunroof stuck shut is far better than stuck open.

>It was an old car and I was not paying $400 to replace the sunroof motor.
That's subjective. Granted, I'm a car enthusiast, but sometimes you have to cut your losses. A sealed up sunroof is better than a wet interior.

I'll comment on your other posts tomorrow. You're doing good so far, anon. I really appreciate your contributions to my board.