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There's no discharge in the war!

File: 1458524266599-0.jpg (174.7 KB, 2532x2532, 1:1, Savage 110.jpg)

File: 1458524266602-1.jpg (11.1 KB, 550x550, 1:1, savage 110 BA.jpg)

c203b3 No.335289

/K/ I want to get a long range rifle. I can't decide between .300 win mag or .338 lapua mag

I am thinking Savage Model 110, just cant decide the caliber. Obviously .338 is expensive as fuck to shoot compared to the .300 but I feel like it has the ideal ballistic profile and thus will require less practice to be proficient.

343df9 No.335301

Well strelok, are the gains of the .338 worth the extra money? I wouldn't say so. As for worrying about needing less practice to be proficient, why would you want to shoot your gun less?


9a3cb3 No.335315

If you do not understand ballistics, trigonometry, or basic calc forms, you do not need a .338 Lapua Magnum rifle. At the range where it shines (1,000m+), you will have no idea how to make hits without guessing.

Get a .300 WinMag. Unless you do know how to math and are willing to spend some time reading or watching videos on how to shoot long range, then in this case get the .338LM.


c203b3 No.335317

>>335315

I took calc in college and I am sure I could figure it out given enough time. The thing the worries me is zero'ing the scope right and having it stay that way considering the cost of the ammunition. How complicated can it really be, the bullet flies in a straight path and has drop. As long as you know humidity, altitude, and the ballistic drop rate you should be able to figure out where you need to aim with the reticule right? I am more worried about my shooting form with the recoil and all to actually be able to carry out an accurate shot.


c203b3 No.335318

>>335317

oh and wind I guess.


83202c No.335319

>>335317

>>335318

At ranges outside of a mile? The Desert Tech SRS gets .5 MOA at a mile with .338 Lapua, and even then you have to pay attention to varying air pressures, temperatures, and even the Coriolis effect when you're that far from your target. Bullet drop is not everything.


ae6bea No.335321

>>335318

Also the direction and you're shooting in and your geographical location. Both for the coriolis effect.


ae6bea No.335324

>>335321

The first "and" shouldn't have been there, in case it's not obvious.


9a3cb3 No.335329

>>335317

First you need match-grade ammo or handloads. The bullets all need to be seated right in the casing. The powder needs to be exact.

You named a few things, but left out very important ones. As a barrel wears-in (100-400 rounds), you will get a higher velocity as you shoot more. After 400-800 or so, you will see a slow dropoff. You need to pay attention to the temperature of the ammo believe it or not. Barrel harmonics is complicated, just know that the less shit you have on the barrel (freefloat it, use an 11° target crown or a really nice muzzle brake, etc) the better it will be.

Dont cheap out on a scope either. A fixed zoom scope should be no less than 400$, variable 900$. My friend and i both have SWFA SS scopes, i have a 10x and my friend got the 16x. They hold zero extremely well no matter how many times you spin the turrets. If youre on a budget, get one of these. I say go for Mil/Mil, thats what i have on my PTR and my friend on his LAR-8.

Get a good mount too, 110$+.

Long range shooting is complicated. Elevation, ammo temp, air temp, air density, distance, ballistic coef., bullet altitude (air pressure volumes), humidity, wind, and maybe earths rotation depending on range. I probably left some out, but whatever, you get the point


a12bda No.335359

>>335289

.338 lapua mag

world record in long range "sharpshooting"


a1230d No.335405

File: 1458542617200.png (340.43 KB, 398x582, 199:291, 1455390294593-2-a.png)


47d2df No.335469

File: 1458564449716.jpg (205.13 KB, 640x379, 640:379, 1455635711717.jpg)

>>335317

>>335317

Nigga i didnt take calc and can Zero a scope, that's not the problem, stick to the Same gr. and bullet brand and you should be with acceptable standards (if not reloading). but these anons are right the Zero is the least of your worries, at those ranges (600+) there's so many factors, that you have to account for. shoot from prone and shoot on a bag or sandbag, you'll be fine. worry more about wind speed and direction. drop is easy to calculate and account for, wind not so much. keep records of your handloads, then stick to one that works for you, and don't deviate from it. Also why .338? why not .300WM or shit even .308 ? what Distance are you aiming at hitting?




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