/o/ - Auto

>>3859

You posted an SW20 not AW11.

Also you want RWD why?

AW11 never came with a turbo

Also MR2's understeer like dogs.

>>3969

if you are shit at driving, that is.

>>3983

MR layout + Torsen LSD+stiff front sway bar.

no amount of tail braking will fix that the moment you touch the power the car wants to understeer. Inducing oversteer and/or power sliding (which i take it is what OP wants to do because le ebin driftos)

Not to say you cant powerslide them, its entirely possible. just that its not as easy and not as controllable as FR.

>>3990

>MR layout + Torsen LSD+stiff front sway bar.

not that anon but these all sound like pros to me though. i mean the weight distribution and LSD should help keep traction right? from what i understand torsen only lacks when the wheels lift off. on that note however, how hard would it be to replace it with a Kaaz?

>>4260

wait let me sort of revise this.

what i mean to say is, could you sort of fix these issues? like loosening the swaybar and changing the differential?

If you want maximum traction get blizzaks.

>>3861

fucking shitter

its just that the combination leads to alot of understeer. I also took for granted in that post that the owner had removed the quite frankly retarded amount of toe in they put on the rear. it should be reduced to 0.15 degrees IN from the stock / factory thats almost 5 degrees.

The toe in causes the car to understeer alot and make the oversteer very snappy when it does kick in (hence the snapoversteer meme) hard to controll sideways too. With the toe reduced to acceptable levels the car will slide a little easier but it will most importantly be alot more controlable/recoverable in that slide.

Now as for what i glossed over;

The MR layout is gonna induce oversteer naturally nothing you can do here other than try to lighten your ass (carbon fibre boot?)

The Torsen LSD's biggest problem is that its always at a certain limited slip.

if you go watch a video of why we have diffs youll see that in the corners you want the LSD to act very loose/open (but not fully open) on cornering.The issue with the SW20's torsen LSD is that it cannot open/lock in a variable manner, it has ONE setting from the factory that cannot be adjusted. its a cheap LSD really. Better than no LSD at all.. but far inferior to a real LSD.

Now as the anon replying to me said the disadvantages of a torsen LSD can be countered by driving skill, you need to tail brake in the corner alot more and withold power till very late corner. Its do-able, but not ideal.

the swaybar is just icing on the cake really, for how much it costs to fix its probably the 2nd easiest to fix (first being the alignment) and 3rd cheapest (after alignment and battery)

The torsen LSD is probably the most expensive one to fix, i dont know about swapping the stock LSD. i still have my torsen i just make it work (i actually recently fucked around with my suspension a little, brought the front down an extra half inch over the rear and made quite a bit of difference, but you cant do this on stock suspension)

>>3861

so its cool having a fat, old, broken shitbox that costs way too much and is slow?

>>4556

>implying you can get that kind of power in a similarly priced modern car

beat 385hp for less than 10k

>>4556

not a fan of the circlejerk surrounding 1965-1972 cars, but a lot of the 73+ cars offer tremendous value in that they can be upgraded and modified easily with a huge preexisting aftermarket and wealth of information about them, all for extremely low prices and theyre smog exempt in almost all states due to being 25+ years old

>>4600

not going to get any pre-smog 'MURICAN MUSCLEcar for under $10K in good condition unless it has a small block or is a sedan

also google "gross vs net horsepower", engines used to be tested with no accessories and special headers but this was changed around ~73, also leaded gas which had a higher octane rating and allowed engines to run more compression was phased out around that time

385HP gross is likely closer to 325-350HP net under the new system, which would put it directly in comparison with the 4th gen F-body, which is also under $10K

with the addition of smog equipment and catalytic converters in 74, combined with the drop in compression this resulted in cars having less horsepower than before, but all of this can easily be fixed due to the massive aftermarket and lack of emissions laws that apply to later 70s and 80s cars, without having to pay high prices or deal with stupid shit from 60s and early 70s cars like drum brakes and points/condenser ignition

>>4601

> lack of emissions laws that apply to later 70s and 80s cars

I live in California, 1975 and later cars need to be inspected once ever other year.

and dropping a bigblock into a B body isn't 'that' hard seeing as they often came with them

>>4602

>I live in California, 1975 and later cars need to be inspected once ever other year.

kek, enjoy your nofunallowed state

>and dropping a bigblock into a B body isn't 'that' hard seeing as they often came with them

mopar made some of the best looking cars, but theyre not really the best choice if you have a budget, theyre prone to rust, hard to find parts for, and heavy

big blocks also prone to overheating and detonation due to how much surface area the head has unless you run race gas, a well built small block with good flowing heads will typically make just as much horsepower although less torque

a GM 350 in something relatively light like a nova, monza, C4 vette, third gen f-body or g-body really is the best choice even though how stereotypical it is, if you actually want a older 'MURICAN MUSCLE car on a budget

>>4603

>enjoy your nofunallowed state

>implying I have a choice

tech industry is here, thus I am here

>not really the best choice if you have a budget

who implied that? all I said was that swapping a slant-6 for a 440 is easyer than putting an LS inna V-6 foxbody

small-block chevy is the stereotype for a reason

>>4605

>who implied that? all I said was that swapping a slant-6 for a 440 is easyer than putting an LS inna V-6 foxbody

fair enough, just speaking from a performance/dollar perspective

>>6059

With what engine? If 4A-GE: billzilla.org has a nice writeup about 4A-GE NA and FI (forced induction) engines.

>>6059

Well you see that's the beauty of the shitbox.Most of the money is dropped on the engine itself.

Anyways if you want a decent proper setup you can cough up $4+k for a custom turbo setup or spend less than 4k for a rebuild with forged internals, ebay headers and piping and a decent used turbo from the junkyard.

>>6065

so my best bang for buck would be replacing the internals like the header, the cam and crank, the rod, the valve and valve-seat, and piston, with forged steel versions from ebay? and then get the biggest turbo i can find at a junkyard?

>>6074

Well no get the internals off some good manufacturer or distributer like CP. You'll need pistons, rings, rods, valves and valve seats.

Ebay you get the headers, 2 becusea you'll crack the first one during tuning and turbo piping.

At the junkyard you can pull the turbo and inter cooler. You'll might need to rebuild the turbo but shouldnt be an issue

Oh and damn you'll need a ecu or a piggy back. This alone will set you back 500-1000.

And you'll need a whole bunch of little bits and pieces like bolts, head bolts, clamps, hoses, beer, buffalo wings, an engine seal kit, controllers, etc.

But as always do research. Most likely there's a few builds online of a couple guys who've done a poormans turbo build. Get hints on what to stay away from and weak points on the engine.

If you do get an mr2 try your best to go after the 3sgte turbo engine. It's all ready turbod and youll be able to pull a max 18 psi on the stock turbo safely with the stock block.

If you crap out on the 5fse or non turbo 3fse youll need to do more work upfront.

I don't know I'm high.

>>3859

Fiero?

>>6099

Aye.

>>6075

CP?

>>6075

i don't know if you'll see this but i managed to find these.

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/ottawa/1993-toyota-mr2-coupe-project-to-be-rebuilt/1088482771?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

mr2 base chassis for 1400

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/ottawa/1990-toyota-celica-gts-hatchback/1042652486?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

3gste for 900

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-engine-parts/ottawa/turbo-exhaust-manifold-and-down-pipe/1093647294?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

exhaust manifold and downpipe for 200

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-parts-and-accessories/ottawa/hks-vpc-piggyback-3sgte/1060051275?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

piggyback for 150

is this a sign? am i destined to make this baby born? or am i being insane?

>>6171

They make engine parts really good imo

>>6172

If you really want a turbo mr2 and if you have enough money and if you won't worry if the project becomes a loss, I say go for it.

That 3sgte needs a rebuild. I can smell it. A seal and ring kit should cost less than 250. Also that mr2 has rust and is an auto. So make sure you double check the enderbody, strut towers and unibody frame where the subframe bolts on. Keep your eye out for a manual tranny.

Also remember to go check out dump/tune costs as they are pricey.

>>6172

>>6175

Also have you checked mr2 forums. They will be able to give you a better view and opinion and help you out on your build than I could ever.

But don't forget to come back and shitpost here.

>>6176

will do. i didn't realize it was an auto my bad. what models of the mr2 had the 3gste anyway? i've had a hard time distinguishing them.

>>6175

there's someone selling a two piece ct26 turbo kit for 300. would that be a good addition?

the piggy back, this turbo, engine and tranny from a celica, and an mr2 body with dismantled N/A engine which i could part (i think). all in all i'm looking at 2950 not including the time i'd have to put into it. is it a bust or a bazinga?

>>6262

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-engines-and-engine-parts/ottawa/ct26-turbo-upgrade/1096932823?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

turns out it's bored bigger (allegedly). i'll look into it more.