/o/ - Auto

>>5121

There's no propshaft/cardan tho.

Does my ka24de one fit the ca18det/sr20det gearbox?

(He's replaced the gearbox)

>>5120

Doing a similar setup with your KA24DE would be very hard to do for cheaper than the turbo E.

I don't understand modding this engine, though. Stock tune is just fast enough to get the car sideways but not fast enough to be terrifying. Oh, and the durability!

Is this for a racing application? If not, the stock KA24DE is going to be way more fun.

>>5135

True, although I could get to about 220-ish for less.

I guess I don't really need 400+ hp..

You make a good point, I bought it to learn to go sideways and DD so maybe it's just retarded to be thinking of getting such a serious build.

I could just shave a bit off the top and do a thorough cleaning etc.

Wish there were some cams that gave a bit more oomph, but from what I've seen that only exists for the s14 ka24de.

Cheers anon!

Maybe I'll just fix up the suspension and tune up the engine.

>>5138

Try this on the 24DE:

Clean throttle plate.

Clean the MAF sensor. Don't worry about the IAT. Apparently all it does in the KA's system is diagnostics.

Clean IACV/AAC/fast idle cam. You may need a gasket depending on engine format.

Clean EGR ports/valve. Gaskets will be required for the valve. Ports will probably have hex plugs, which should be re-sealed with high-temp threadlocker. Also be careful not to get too much carbon into the runners.

PAIR valve (if equipped). See about deleting it if equipped and if there isn't some gay law in your region that requires you to have it.

Replace vacuum hoses. Most are 1/4" OD.

Run fuel injector cleaner. Gumout and Techron are pretty great. It works far better than you'd think.

Replace fuel filter and air filter. Probably replace as much of the fuel system as you can.

Remove/block silencer from intake breather tube. It won't make it any faster, but it'll prevent that sexy KA boat drone from being covered up. Don't bother with a CAI, though.

Clean the ground leads. These are the negative wires all over the engine bay with loops on the end held in with 6x1.00 bolts. Clean the loops, chase the threads and replace the bolts.

Replace the upstream oxygen sensor. This part might be a bitch. It tends to weld itself to the bung in the manifold.

Most importantly, avoid Fram oil filters. Buy Bosch.

Pennzoil Synchromesh GL-3 in the transmission, if it's manual. Most fluids will eat the transmission very quickly, so make sure it's the right kind. I've heard Redline MT90 is also good but haven't tried it yet.

Doing all that should help immensely. You'll have some adjusting to do to get used to the engine's acceleration curve in good health.

That turbo 24E does sound damn awesome, but you can never predict how long a KA-T/R will last. Assuming a timing chain guide doesn't break off get sucked up into the oil pump, a stock KA will last many hundreds of thousands of miles.

As for improving performance over stock, the KA24 responds well to weight reduction and redistribution. Every pound under 2800 you can shave off will help. You're driving a 240SX, right? Battery relocation might be worth doing. However, it's more fun at lower speeds when the car's more front-heavy.

Removing power steering is also worthwhile. Does the 240SX DE have its own v-belt for the PSP? If it does you can just pull everything out and seal off the gear. If not, there's delete kits available. If you can get used to manual steering, you can enjoy dropping about 40lb, a high pressure fluid system, and a power-stealing pulley system.

>>5146

>>5145

Thank you anon!

You have no idea how helpful this is.

Finally have a checklist to start working on.

>>5154

I'm glad to help. You're custodian to one of the greatest engines ever developed.

Just have to keep it clean. It runs rich on its stock tune, but this is good because it reduces the chance of blasting a hole in your block by a lot. It gets choked up pretty badly by dirt, which is why a lot of people have the impression of it being a "slow" engine.

You probably know this part, but I'm going to say it anyway. Don't forget to maintain your brakes as well. Lubricate the caliper pins frequently to keep them from getting horribly jammed and causing collateral damage. You'll be able to brake faster if you disable ABS (if equipped), but may run into trouble if you're not good with the brakes. Pulling the fuse will disable it, but some people wire a switch in series to the fuse. Remember, being able to stop fast is even more important than being able to go fast. Especially if you want to go fast laterally.

The 240SX is a really good car to learn on. Not excessively fast, light and easy to handle. The only time you have to worry about terrifying spinout is on ice. Powertrain very hard to destroy even for psychotic/inexperienced drivers.

Yeah, it's still not the fastest. But disregard the idiots driving by in lopsided shitbox crossovers at 20MPH above the speed limit. They're just moving forward really fast so they can get out of their appliance-grade cars faster. All the engine in the world won't make them able to move like a 240. Or last as long.

>>5157

One thing I've been wondering.

Could any mods give me like 160HP?

I don't need a huge power increase.

>>5566

Fuel pump and injectors. A "performance" air filter probably won't hurt given how rich the KA24DE runs.

You should probably look into a top feed injector conversion kit and a slightly higher flow fuel pump if you want more/cheaper options for injectors.

Power steering delete, ABS disable and replacing as many bulbs with LED equivalents as possible will help by limiting temporary losses from accessories.

Checking double dubs.

>>5568

So higher flow pump and injectors.

That'll require me to ECU tune right?

So get 270cc injectors and 255 LPH pump plus a Nistune unit and I'll gain 5-10 hp.

That's about 850 bucks.

Not too bad actually, I'd still need all that if I want to turbo but I don't have to spend all of those 2000 bucks at once and still have some more fun.

>>5569

That's a good start. Or even a good place to leave it. You could probably have the head machined for some more improvement. Seen multiple anecdotes about enlarging the intake (not so much exhaust) valves improving flow. Seems innocuous and like a good way to improve engine health. Maybe level out the cylinder mating surface.

Just be very careful about changing the type of aspiration. You'll need new headgasket, new exhaust, new pistons/rods if you're planning to push a significant amount of boost. Also make damn sure the engine is in near perfect health with good compression beforehand. Very easy to blow a hole in a turbo or super KA.

I really think the thing's better as an NA engine with maybe a slight amount of modification. Otherwise it's just another racing engine that'll blow up within a few months. KA-T/R seem like cool ideas, but unless you're prepared to rebuild it multiple times. It's worth having a little less power if you're not a fan of having black smoke billowing out of the hood.

Might be better off just having the entire block machined. It'd cost about as much and you'd be left with a far more reliable product. You could even oversize the pistons a bit.

Remember, also. The thing will never be able to withstand over 7500rpm. Ever. It's not any kind of traditional racing engine. If you want something like that with turbo, try to get a used Peterbilt instead.

>>5574

I probably will leave it there, for at least a year anyways.

Then I'll re-evaluate whether I want to keep building or perhaps swap in an sr or a T5.

>7500rpm

Yeah, been keeping it under 6k.