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/tech/ - Technology

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File: 9cd31551fedf586⋯.png (4.65 KB, 200x200, 1:1, dollarsign.png)


Looking to buy something but aren't sure what to get? Ask here.



Yeah the gaymur aesthetic is pretty garbage but filling those requirements for less than 800 is pretty fucking hard


Hi there /tech/

I need to replace my headset with another or just some headphones

After reading a lot i learned that... Everyone lies?

According to the internet, human hearing goes from 20Hz to 20'000hz yet some of the "best" headstuff goes below and above this threshold

Wont that will just send inaudible audio?

Some claim that using 7.1 is useless because it doesn't work as it should and just stereo is fine, and of course others claim that is the best

Looking i was thinking on buying

Kingston HyperX Cloud Stinger, Astro a10, Turtle Beach 60p cheap and good? but don't know now

Reveiws claim that asus is really bad with its headsets but everyone just plays with the mic, does anyone know how good is the audio? asking because they look neat

Or just should i go with some plantronics? or sony headphones?

I will use them to play online, and music, if the spacial sound location works it would be good, the mic only for general stuff great quality is not needed

How im willing to spend depends if there is really a difference between the cheapest and the more expensive stuff



>Wont that will just send inaudible audio

mostly yes, but if they can send some infra-sound, they must be also better for audible bass.

that said, you should look for full FR plots, the numbers don't say shit unless it's also known which tolerance is used. are those 20..20000hz sent within ±3 dB sound pressure level variance?

it's not like there's complete silence outside the claimed range, you know. actually, strictly speaking, any time-limited signal is not band-limited, that is, it has infinite spectrum.


>Some claim that using 7.1 is useless because it doesn't work as it should and just stereo is fine, and of course others claim that is the best

anything other than 2.0 is fucking pointless and stupid for headphones.


I'd recommend Sennheiser PXC 480 if you would benefit from noise cancellation too. otherwise do some research. generally good headphones are made by audio-technica and sennheiser, but they have a few dud models too.

>How im willing to spend depends if there is really a difference between the cheapest and the more expensive stuff

under something like $200 there are differences. everything that's more expensive is unlikely to be better, but can be worse if it's some gay shit like Beats (God forbid).



and yeah, most of it is relevant for headphones, but

>Sennheiser PXC 480

this is actually a headset (they have a microphone)


I have an ancient USB 1.1 hub, and after a recent PC rebuild I decided to look into getting a usb 3 hub to replace it.

I still have olde shite that I have to be able to use that may need a 1.1 port, but I also have a couple external SSD drives that need a USB-3 port.

I know this because the mobo has a few USB-2 ports and a couple USB-3 ports on the back plane, and the 3's are the only two that the external SSD drives will work in.

Basically I have run into reports that USB-3 hubs don't all support USB-1.1 devices. ?:>[

USB-3 ports always support #2 devices, and #2 ports always support #1.1 devices, but #3 is not guaranteed to support #1.1 devices. And many usb-3 hubs don't.

Or some people say that you need a special cable to make a 1.1 device work in a usb-3 port, because the cable is what provides the compatibility...? What is this cable they speak of?

I need a new hub anyway and I can just get a USB-2 hub, and then put a couple USB-3 ports into the floppy drive bay (the mobo does have the internal header for two usb-3 ports).

Also note that this is just for the "rectangular-plug" USB stuff,,,, I don't care about usb-3-micro-superspeed, or USB-C.



maybe it wasn't the best example track. most of wizards old stuff has pretty bad recordings.

what the hell is DR?



It's an estimate of the (worst 20% percentile) of the difference between peak level and local averaged RMS level (which is an estimate of loudness)

It shows how badly a digital record was damaged in order to get it "louder" (the whole phenomenon is called "loudness war", search it on the web)

Most records made before 1994 were not damaged by this and the normal DR for such records (or proper records made in modern days, which is now relatively rare) is anything between 9 and 15, sometimes as high as 20 for classical music.

8 is the minimum DR allowing a good sound for pop/rock/metal and similar genres, unless the mastering guy doesn't know what he's doing.

6 is the average and most common DR for modern records in popular genres, and it sounds like crap (you'd hear pumping and crunching at the loudest places, if there are any, and the record is doomed to sound flat and boring), but it's close to tolerable at times, if the mix itself doesn't have much dynamics to begin with (quiet drums, relatively quiet vocals, every track heavily compressed to begin with and/or played with constant loudness).

each step below 6 is a huge step towards unlistenable shit, even though 6 is already shit.

you might guess that 2-3 would have to sound abysmal.



also before you take wrong conclusions, remember: DR measurements of vinyl don't show anything at all, it only applies to digitally released records. for some reasons which may be already clear if you're into DSP and maths, but otherwise, take a look at https://www.metal-fi.com/can-measure-vinyl-dynamics/ and the linked video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-AE9dL5FG8




I just checked some other bands out. I guess a shitty DR score comes with the genre



Not always, although for some genres you'd have a harder time to find good recordings.

Many of "extreme" genres have got a shitload of good recordings, namely black/death/thrash metal. Most of these are made before year 1994, but even after 1994 there are a lot of good examples.

I guess, you can find some for stoner as well.

http://dr.loudness-war.info/album/view/122908 for example, if I got you right, it's this genre too.

Loudness compression doesn't make the sound "harder" in any way, it just makes it shit.

It's quite simple, when everything is loud, nothing is, because it's relative and ultimately the listener controls the volume.



Also, if the dynamic range compression is done by a competent people and with the state of the art tools, for most rock/metal it could be very difficult to hear the difference even if it's about DR5, but most of the times it is done in a sloppy way and using sub-par tools, so most of the times these compressed records will sound like shit. Competent people would likely try to fight back and avoid compressing records anyway, because it's simply pointless and can't gain any benefits. It can only do damage, or, if everyone's lucky, effectively do nothing.



Thanks annon learned some stuff today

Sennheiser have nice specifications I´ll see what they have


File: 1e2239cb4a971ad⋯.png (35.36 KB, 300x250, 6:5, 6fNfKDQGm4-6[1].png)



thanks kind anon

I gave up on the speakers, if anyone gives a shit. sadly I can't find anything that looks like it would work for me. at least not in my price range.

thank to everyone for the input


recommend me quality earBUDS

don't care if it has mic, bt, radio, wireless etc or not

just want them to have quality sound with deep bass

thank you very much in advance


My S5 is finally dying. I need to replace it. What's a good phone that

>Supports Lineage or another maintained ROM

>has a MicroSD slot

>has a Removable battery


Wanna build my own pc and I want to do a little bit of gaming as well as some video editing.

I'm using PCpart picker and looking at a couple guides, my stupid question is that every guide is about building a gaming pc xddd, can i be confidant if I do build a pc competent for gaming that i will have the requirements sufficient to do some video editing?

Also, any other good resources besides pcpartpicker?



>Lineage or another maintained ROM

Stop torturing yourself with android



File: 35a1445e16f6a36⋯.png (41.2 KB, 794x825, 794:825, gilgamesh.png)

I built my first PC back in 2011 and it has become dated, it overheats (and thus shuts down) even playing Source engine games. I bought an Rx470 back in 2016 and its not to blame, but my motherboard is partly fucked contributing to bad ventilation, my cooler master was never as good as the reviews said it would be, my i5-2500k never got overclocked because it overheated above 3.3Ghz, etc...

I have less interest in vidya now, I figure I'll just keep the Rx 470 but replace the rest. Been wanting to get a 4k monitor for a while now just for web browsing. I also want to use the rig for shitty sony vegas editing for my fitness vlogging channel. Suggestions for parts? Price range?

>definitely need new monitor higher than 1080p

>a new tower case

>a new motherboard (I can get botnet 10 for free)

>a new CPU (probably an AMD 8 core?)

>probably new RAM, I only have 8Gb of 1600 DDR3 right now

I can figure out the rest of the parts but how much should I spend on these parts here? I'm trying to not spend more than $1000 for this PC to last around 6 years of web browsing and hobbyist video editing.



>Been wanting to get a 4k monitor for a while now just for web browsing.


>>definitely need new monitor higher than 1080p


Not trying to go all luddite on this, but I would just stick to your existing 1080p monitor if you're going to be building a new PC in the meantime. You're just overinflating your budget otherwise. Because with a 4k monitor you'll also need overpriced hardware and GPU and RAM prices are still fucked at the moment.

First off I would recommend a Ryzen CPU, 8GBs of DDR4, and just a well rounded motherboard for your ryzen



If you don't care about games and just multitask, then 8 cores (AMD) is definitely what you want to do. I've found that after 6 a computer becomes fairly hard to bog down with most tasks, and stays responsive no matter what you do. And frankly even single core performance is going to beat the pants off of anything from 2011.

Right now the ryzen refresh is coming out, so you can still get 1xxx series chips and 370 chipset motherboards for about as cheap as they'll get. The 2xxx series is only going to be a minor amount of improvements.

Unfortunately DDR4 RAM prices and GPU prices are still a non stop jewish dance party, so I have no advice for you their. It's gonna be another year at least before things normalize and then another fucking mining rush happens

It should be remembered that the all in one chips are HEAVILY dependent of ram speed to truly achieve their potential, if you are temped to go that route.




I've been using a small laptop at college and I've gotten used to high # of pixels per inch

>Because with a 4k monitor you'll also need overpriced hardware and GPU and RAM prices

You're definitely right, but I'm not going to be gaming much. Probably just playing Hotline miami or csgo a few hours a week. Most of my time will be web browsing and stuff.

>First off I would recommend a Ryzen CPU, 8GBs of DDR4, and just a well rounded motherboard for your ryzen

Awesome, will look into this. Will probably wait on the RAM and use what I've got, didn't realize how absolutely fucked ram prices were at the moment.


Thanks for the advice, will def go the 8 core route.


File: 2071a7778c794c0⋯.png (2.19 KB, 171x158, 171:158, ram.png)

File: 95ba3caa30865f8⋯.gif (54.82 KB, 500x447, 500:447, crystalpepsi.gif)


Oh, fuck, will a motherboard for the Ryzen series CPUs only take DDR4 ram? For real? Does DDR3 seriously not work?


If i buy the raspberry pi on ebay is it a good way to buy without giving the sjw money? or would you recommend the BeagleBone Black to someone whos never used a linux pc before?



If youre learning to use linux why use a weak raspberry pi? Why not build a desktop that is 20,000 times more powerful for only $100 extra?



Because i already have a desktop, and i wanted a single board computer for a portable computer.



Also i wanted to use it have a portable computer to run Mini vMac and dos games.




Okay. Well my suggestion is to just buy the raspberry pi the cheapest route you can. Your tax dollars already go towards welfare and Israel, 35 bucks to some sjw cucks wont break your pride.


I'm looking at a 525gb SSD and for $15 cheaper than the 2.5" one I can get an m.2

Is saving $15 worth giving up the slots on my motherboard? I only have one GPU (rx 470)



See >>885474

Astro and particularly Turtle Beach are dogshit. You can count headsets that aren't on two fingers: HyperX Clouds and some Sennheiser set that I forget the name of. Frequency response matters a lot less than a whole lot of other things that can't really be listed on a data sheet. If you don't want to take internet retards at their word, best thing you can do is find a headphone shop in your area and try some out in person.


Surround virtualization uses 7.1



Thank you for the advice, but i honestly don't know, does the raspberry pi "people" get money if i buy it from ebay? Isn't it like buying something in an internet yard sale?



I hate to be 'that guy' but I've used turtle beach head sets since I was a kid and they work fine for gaming. Audio too. Mic is good for a headset as well.



m2 is much faster then sata. Just make sure your motherboard supports it



I know it's much faster, but I don't believe having another chip on my motherboard is going to help with temperatures and cleaning. I also don't do many large data transfers. I would definitely take your advice if the $15 wasnt important to me but Im trying to cut margins everywhere possible. Actually settled on an ADATA 2.5", 480Gb for $110


What are your guys thoughts on wireless keyboards? Considering I might use my PC for a lot of media browsing, it makes sense to have a keyboard I can move to my coach easily yeah? Any affordable recommendations?



pls helb




No, they don't.


There a way to easily & cheaply get sound from a PC (or even a phone) through to every room in a house? (Other than "huge booming set of speakers sure to get the cops called".) One thing I can imagine is a bunch of cheap bluetooth speakers strategically placed everywhere going through a single dongle if that's possible (even if they sounded like shit), another would be a bunch of wired ones though that'd be a much bigger pain.


Would it be possible to get a bunch of strategically placed bluetooth speakers playing from the same source? Or are there better ways to get music or audiobooks playing in every room in a home from a desktop, other than huge booming speakers sure to get the cops called?



Ignore second one, fucking backup laptop since desktop is down. Should've just used my phone to post.


File: 6bdd34368e6e459⋯.jpg (357 KB, 1410x936, 235:156, Processors after 2007 have….jpg)



if i was you, i'd look for cpu that /tech/ agree with (i haven't build a PC in over 10 years, and now we have windows 10 which is spyware. So i'd say start there than find a gpu that fits the same criteria, after that it should be too hard to find a motherboard that fits both.





hm as far as windows 10 being spyware, i mean is there any way around that? can you just use a different older version of windows or are they all updated to be shit


File: 55990c5d20ec814⋯.jpg (1.44 MB, 2560x2938, 1280:1469, 88c686471740e6c1322187d747….jpg)


You can use windows 7 because it's safe enough however it's a closed off OS so it's not 100%, windows 10 is known as the spyware OS because it's shown many examples of spying on it's users.



There are updates to backport some of the telemetry to older versions, but you can simply not install them.


File: eebaeb21a780ce8⋯.png (75.98 KB, 717x451, 717:451, never-check-for-updates.png)



Fuckin' assholes, just fuck off to 4cuck and don't spew that illiterate bullshit all over here.

Check out libreboot.org/faq.html#amd and go buy the most powerful FX if you can find motherboard for it.


I want to control my PC from my Android phone/tablet via wireless or bluetooth.

I'm not interested in receiving picture, just emulating keyboard + mouse. What's the best way to do this? Hard more: Open source



Forgot to mention: Windows 7 primarily, but I have linux machine as well so I'll take it there too.





File: 1c62bddef303292⋯.jpg (40.89 KB, 700x514, 350:257, 0f583333-06b4-47e0-bc3c-ce….jpg)


Buy used

buy leather, it last a lifetime if you oil it once in a while



KDE Connect


My HDD space is getting increasingly low, fast. I've been thinking of buying an external HDD for backing up my stuff and transferring useless files. I'm planning on using said HDD maybe 20 times a year tops. Preferred storage space is 1.5 TB or more. USB 2.0 compatibility preferred because I don't think I have USB 3.0 ports on the PC. What would you recommend? I saw this one on sale recently, is this any good? https://www.wdc.com/products/portable-storage/wd-elements-portable.html#WDBU6Y0020BBK-NESN

For the record, I already have one HDD on which I spent more money than usual because it had software that supposedly made backup easier and could password-protect it and shit like that. Turns out I didn't need that shit and only used the HDD itself as is, so lack of software on my new HDD isn't a problem.

Also, if I use it on OS's older than Windows 7, will I have to reformat it?



that one is fast, but I hear those portable WDs tend to fuck them selves up fast. don't take my word for it, though. ask around

alternatively, you can just buy a regular hdd and put it in a enclosure. 2.5'' disks are alright for that, since they work on usb only. no need for a separate power source

> it had software that supposedly made backup easier and could password-protect it

never heard of such a thing. sounds awful

>Also, if I use it on OS's older than Windows 7, will I have to reformat it?

since youre on windows, you're going NTFS. if the OS supports it, you're fine. unless you're plugging in to win95 or something



>alternatively, you can just buy a regular hdd and put it in a enclosure. 2.5'' disks are alright for that, since they work on usb only. no need for a separate power source

Is there a specific search term for those?

>never heard of such a thing. sounds awful

It kinda was since you could just not install the drivers and have more access to it. Also the backup function was bugged, it didn't finish all the way and just hanged there forever from a point onward.




Thanks, will try this out. Can't fi d anything open source on windowse though



Sandisk portables are almost bulletproof.




What the fuck is the point of a systemdicks phone? I may as well just buy android.


I need a decent quality boom microphone that isn't going to kill, rape or otherwise viciously manhandle a wallet.

I don't mind getting prices on known good boom microphones if they are a bit pricey though.

Estimated buying power, around $50~$200, some tier lists would be appreciated.



There is nothing wrong with it, and you can install any distro manually and it's much easier than installing an android OS.




File: 10a2d9b0a6cec43⋯.png (443.28 KB, 334x514, 167:257, Hmm.png)

So I'm looking to possibly get into editfagging. Should I use Gimp or just balls up and pay for Photoshop? Or if there's something better than both, throw em at me



Assuming it's for personal use, just use gimp



GIMP is okay for a lot of things. try and see if there's something really missing.

16-bit support should come soon to stable, too.


For some reason, my Buffalo WHR-HP-G300N refuses to flash even with the original ROM that came with it on CDROM. I was going to try to manually flash it, but I don't have a 16 pin pomona clip and they are $32 USD on Amazon. Is there a solid, but cheap router that works well with OpenWRT and is around $50ish? It will mainly be used for Wifi connection of cellphones when people come over.



Netgear WNDR3800, fully compatible with LibreCMC


20$ on eBay



GIMP on windows seems to work okay for basic stuff. it don't do the kewl photoshop stuff tho.

inkscape on windows doesn't work (x32 or x64) and hasn't worked right for at least a couple years now.

krita (windows) is neat for doing digital "hand" drawings, but I haven't played with it enough to know for sure if it is working dependably or not.




>no dsl support

wat do




I'm about one click away from pre-ordering one of these but worried about being suckered into a meme phone. I'd appreciate others thoughts on these.




They're clearly overpriced for the specs, but you'd get the most libre phone on the market.


What's the cheapest external HDD-USB adapter I can get that just werks.


How hard is it to portablize a Amiga 600? The Spectrum got it with the Omni laptop, so curious if it's possible to attach a screen and bring on the go.


File: fccc9fb18ff7b8e⋯.png (591.92 KB, 808x3283, 808:3283, desktop_build.png)

I put together a computer for the first time in about 8 years. Can you guys give me some feedback?

All I want is an entry level machine to browse and be able to do some light video and image editing and the odd RTS game. I'm debating on whether or not to go with linux(but I don't really since I'm gonna use Office) and if maybe a pentium is enough. Is a pentium enough? The card is the cheapest I could find that isn't a real POS, christ the prices are insanse.

Plans afterwards are to expand another 4gb slot, add a couple lf hard drives, and a bluray player. One upgrade per paycheck. This should pretty much max out my motherboards 4 sata connections and 2 ram slots so that I can be using it for maximum efficiency.

Basically, I don't want to have any resources that I don't need or any empty motherboard connection on the table.



Looks fine but ffs don't be a retard and buy windows the normal way just get a licence key off Ebay and install it yourself they are like $5.

>I'm debating on whether or not to go with linux(but I don't really since I'm gonna use Office)

Why not libre office?

Also you may want to consider AMD if you want cheaper good low-mid end performance



LibreOffice instead of MS Office

GNU/Linux instead of windows

AMD instead of Intel. The 2200G comes with an ok GPU.


bluray? for what??




>Looks fine but ffs don't be a retard and buy windows the normal way just get a licence key off Ebay and install it yourself they are like $5.

Wow, i didn't realize they actually work. I just googled. I remember when I was a teenageer I would always use DAZ loader but it's been so long since I've done this. Thank you very much.

AMD's naming scheme confused the shit out of me so I just went with an i3. Like I said, I just want to use all of my resources without missing anything and thought this was the best deal as i3's are quad cores now which pretty much kills any reason to buy an i3 or skimp for a pentium. Although I'd be willing to stay with a pentium if I knew how it would perform for me IRL.

I will do some more shopping and see if amd fits me better.



As far as office goes, I need to use access for work databases. I don't think libreoffice comes with something suitable. What's the equivalent of the entry level i3 in AMD?


I wanted to take up video editing as a hobby to make custom movies for myself. This after I saw blade runner 2049, was a great movie but some scenes just didn't need to be there or could be cut down.



You should go with AMD instead of Jewtel and Jewvidia. Also if you're gonna be a Wincuck at least pirate 10 LTSB



Wireless keyboards are shit tbh

Replace the CPU with Ryzen 2200G or 2400G

Avoid WD and Seagate drives, buy a Samsung SSD instead

Remove the Windows license. It will save you 120$ which you can use to buy the 2400G instead of the i3 and still save +$50 which you should invest into an RX560 instead of the 550. It's slightly more expensive (at ~200 USD) but performs much better.


File: f751a7532f4e263⋯.gif (3.5 MB, 360x640, 9:16, 53f73cd85ce07b3f52f71db053….gif)

I need a good and reliable mouse so no logitech crap and i don't like gay led lights either.



Why are you so sensitive that lights on a mouse trigger you so much?



I have a fm2 a8 and im not planning to switch anytime soon, this is the nigger version however.

you want 1866 memory the apu is memory bandwidth dependent and a ssd

500w is way overkill instead of some noname chinkwatt buy a brand name



you need to go back

I hope at this point you already know why



I'm not 14



So you're saying that being not 14 years old triggers your sensitivity so much. Perhaps you might need to see a doctor, it isn't normal to have this kind of sensitivity to light.



File: 015461665f167c2⋯.jpg (20.75 KB, 800x506, 400:253, serveimage(5).jpg)

File: 2956d6c135f42cb⋯.jpg (57.14 KB, 640x640, 1:1, serveimage(3).jpg)

Out of the two, should i get microsoft's (((remastered))) microsoft intellimouse or get a used old one instead, purely on quality alone.



Don't buy (((Microsoft))) products



but i really like the shape and size of this particular mouse compared to other, more expensive mouses and as far as im aware, it wont send my fingerprints to microsoft. Besides, buying the old one off ebay wont profit microsoft anyway.



I'm just not into gaymen.

I need a mouse for work



How about judging the products based on their merit, not on their image. Just because something is a "gaming" mouse doesn't mean it's not a quality work mouse. I've been using my G9x since it came out for games and everything else. I rarely even play video games anymore but I still use the mouse because it still works well after almost 10 years of abuse.



Good for you man, what if i don't like flashy blinking shit?

Am i still entitled to that or should i get exactly what you like?



I'm not buying Logitech garbage anymore.

I owned a mouse and a webcam both of which died within 6 month usage !, seriously i had cheap "no name" chink crap that lasted way more then that.



>buying the old one off ebay wont profit microsoft anyway

you don't understand economics that much, it seems.


File: d267e69c86960f9⋯.jpg (12.65 KB, 640x480, 4:3, elite gaymur mouse for gay….jpg)


My mouse doesn't have blinky flashy shit so I don't even know what you're on about. I doubt your sincerity.


I wouldn't recommend them now, but their old products were very good. In addition to the mouse I have a keyboard that's even older. 0 problems outside of the print wearing off on some keys. Remember, this keyboard is over 10 years old and has been used heavily daily. I can't complain there.

I'm not advocating for Logitech though, just saying it's stupid to artificially limit options.



Don't know about the new ones, but my experience with the old ones are them being pretty solid up until they die 2 weeks in.


File: 58385c55978724a⋯.jpg (2.42 MB, 2560x1600, 8:5, cyberpunk_streelight_wallp….jpg)

I've never into laptops that weren't supplied by my employer.

Can someone suggest something with large amounts of RAM? Planning on spinning up a lot of VMs. Doesn't need to be able to do anything graphics intensive, like vidya.



How large amounts of RAM would we be talking about? If 32 GB is sufficient and you want a classic (i.e. non-chiclet) keyboard, a Thinkpad W520 could be your thing.


File: 318c41e3c6eec70⋯.png (281.33 KB, 380x400, 19:20, 1397512059699.png)


>Thinkpad W520

Not bad, thanks Anon.



You are asking the wrong question

looking for a 4 ram slot laptop gives you much more selection

acer predator series is the cheapest 4 slot


File: bb82d85f56d56a2⋯.png (196.67 KB, 400x400, 1:1, panoramic_photo_oneshot.png)

I want to do something like google street view, except for walking trails, shorelines of lakes, brooks & rivers, etc. It gives me a good excuse to go hiking in out-of-the-way places. Tourists could use it to locate good camping spots. Or if it really caught on and lots of people started doing this, maybe scientists could use the data: ie for forestry or whatever.

But I only have the vaguest idea of what sort of equipment I'd need.

- Some kind of panoramic camera


- Software that can stitch these images together in a navigable format similar to google street view and also integrate GPS coordinates into it.

What do, tech?



Have you taken a look at openstreetcam?



unless you plan on hiking for the next 5 years, I doubt this will be worth it.


File: 0a5efdeebfdebca⋯.png (407.35 KB, 698x882, 349:441, 5d9cfa97bb2afbbed00147527c….png)

Is a GTX 1080 outdated or can i happily buy a GTX 1080 without worry for the future? (playing on a 1080p monitor, could switch to 1440p)



Then buy GTX 1440


File: 07d0a47c6ac5376⋯.png (182.88 KB, 386x406, 193:203, 07d0a47c6ac537648bd232f0aa….png)




Need tips on a dumbphone


GTX 1080 dropped to ~$600. I have my eye set on a Vega 56 but they're still in the $700 range. Is there a reason why the AMD cards aren't dropping in price like the Nvidia cards? Did Nvidia get first dibs on resupplying their 5DDR5?



Nokia 105 (2017). Or anything else without Bluetooth or GPS.



AMD cards are better for most kinds of crypto mining.


Hey guys,

I'm looking for a tablet as cheap affordable as possible. I need it primarily to read PDFs (in particular with complex mathematical notation) and other eBooks (ePUB, DJVU, whatever) and browse the internet. I don't need graphical power for things like video effects or games, only those tasks. It should have a medium-sized screen and the battery should last long. What are my options? Also, how deeply will the Google botnet fuck me? Can I use it for calendar, contacts and mail?



You can get an Amazon tablet that supports Lineage for pretty cheap



The current Fire HD 10 is 180€ on Amazon right now; the smaller models have shit resolution, which hurts readability. How do I find out which models support Lineage OS? Also, does Lineage OS have an eBook reader? And what about buying a used one? It's pretty much guaranteed that someone was using it on the toilet, and there is no easy way to repair tablets, so I guess used it not a good option.

Sorry for these stupid questions, I have never looked this topic.


What's a good, cheap laptop? I need something at least slightly modern-ish as I'm going to be using it for 2D gamedev. Nothing super high-end, but also not a dinosaur. Is an IBM Thinkpad good enough for this? Those are really the only laptops that come to mind as being worth buying to me, but their age is kind of right on the border of me not being sure if they're modern enough.

Also, none of this ultra thin notebook shit. I can't fucking stand those keyboards that have almost zero travel when you press them.



Also I should mention the only laptop I've ever owned is an HP Compaq 6510b. I really like it physically, the size and keyboard and all, but it's not very powerful. Also, the battery is completely shot so I decided to look into a new laptop instead of replacing the battery.


What's with the hate towards intel and nvidia around here. Looking for serious answers since I haven't spent any time around here.



Anti-competitive and highly Jewish practices. AMD does them too, they just can't afford to be as bad about them as long as they're the underdog.



intel has been fined word wide to bribe retailers not to sell amd

Nivida bribed a judge to have them ban ATI from selling their cards in a bogus lawsuit hoping to bankrupt them.



You have to jump through hoops just get GNU/Linux working with a modern Nvidia card.



Intel been fined to sabotage x86 compilers to make the code run slower on AMD


I need your help to find a new laptop for programming.

I don't need a great graphics card, webcam, cd drive, and 1080 resolution is just fine

I need a decent sized screen, acceptable CPU ~3ghz, enough ram (8gb+ ddr3 or ddr4), and at least 2 USB ports with at least one USB 3.0+

I'd like a built in keyboard with 10-key pad, touch screen, more USB ports, and to not have to pay the Windows os tax

I have a few hundred dollars to budget, but I'd like to spend the least amount possible

Pls advise



>touch screen

Why tho



Dell sells some decent laptops that come with Ubuntu pre-installed.



So I can write math fluently without rage


On their site?



if you are short on cash a used business laptop is the way.



>write math




File: 162514dd4ff4719⋯.jpg (127.65 KB, 688x426, 344:213, w8100-vs-k5000-688.jpg)

I need a mobile workstation but not a laptop because they're unpractical, too expensive and highly unreliable.

I'm looking for a desktop computer i could carry with me when i travel, i was looking at those mini itx motherboards cases.

Do you have any tips?


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the silverstone sg13 is probably has the smallest volume for a case that can take standard sized parts (full length gpu, atx PSU) and isnt autistically overpriced (regularly goes on sale for $30-40). if you do decide to go with the sg13, id suggest getting the mesh front because ive heard that the solid front dramatically increases temperatures. another good choice is the cooler master 130 elite. its a little bigger, just as cheap, can handle atx power supplies and full length gpus, but has the added bonus of supporting a 5.25" drive, if youre into that thing



Thanks anonkun


File: f73150aa379a38d⋯.jpg (183.18 KB, 1000x667, 1000:667, macpro_5-100221179-orig.jpg)


>I need a mobile workstation

>i was looking at those mini itx motherboards cases

Have you thought about getting a TrashcanPro™? If you're going to fuck up, why not fuck up big?



does it run window?

How much does it cost?



Ask Tim Cock. It sounds like you guys have similar ideas of what a workstation is.



I'm not not here to debate about design taste, i'm looking for something powerful in a small package.

I don't care if it looks like a dildo


File: 60e05441b77f740⋯.png (193.48 KB, 1920x840, 16:7, LifeTracker.png)

Is there a smartwatch or other tracker that will let me export my biometrics into a CSV for later evaluation; something like pic related?

I really want to do some deep dives into my own personal data without giving it all up to some company somewhere.



Power produces heat. There isn't enough room in an mini ITX case for proper ventilation. The CPU and GPU are going to throttle down to a lower frequency. These are real issues you're going to run into, so if you want a small package, you might as well get a laptop.



Hugin can be automated to batch stitch panoramas. Get four or five of those 11 dollar phones from a grocery store and tape them on top of a pole that sticks out of a backpack. Set them to video your trip at a low resolution/framerate. ulogger is a FOSS Android program that is coupled with a FOSS server program that tracks your location. As far as the final stitch, you're probably going to need to write that yourself. I'd recommend learning BASH and Python to write what you need.



Why not build one yourself with an Arduino?


It can work just fine with proper ventilation.



Just go stock Ubuntu if you don't have much experience. If you want something a bit lighter, use Manjaro. An optimal OS would probably be Solus, though I don't know what software compatability is like.



Are there sensors avaliable for the Arduino that do that?



Doubt it, but they're not hard to make, yo just need a heart rate sensor, right?



Pretty much. I'm really wanting all the biometrics I can get. Heartrate is a big one, though.


What does /tech/ use as a reading device instead of a tablet?


File: 7b8cfb4a0e33266⋯.jpg (1.95 MB, 2987x1986, 2987:1986, Bookshelf.jpg)


File: be69221f39e1039⋯.png (720.7 KB, 1559x648, 1559:648, Capture.PNG)

Legit or nah?






Those have amazing screens and the battery will last as long as the reader, but they have really shit memory (usually just one book per device) and no backlight, so you need an external light source.


PC has died. What do? Do I get a laptop? I'm leaning towards it because it would be more portable during a happening and I cannot be a manchild forever. I want something with safe hardware and without backdoors. Will be using it for browsing and using DAWs. Must be compatible with GNU/Linux (with external display working correctly). I must buy it with cash, is that correct? Anything else I need to know?



Also curious about this. The vast majority of reviews for that seller are positive. Aside from the potential 2 months wait, is there any downside to buying a graphics card from this seller?



I am asking the seller if this is genuine and if he could post benchmarks of this if he wont im cancelling. The only negative review is that some guy bought two of them and they probably came damaged.



you were born in an unfortunate century.

but if you relax this part a bit

> safe hardware and without backdoors

then you can have some options which are passable on everything else.

>I must buy it with cash, is that correct?

More important is to buy it on the spot, without any prior notice. So that the seller doesn't know in advance that you're heading to them, and can't plant a bug specially for you. (you must begin keeping the laptop in your view before they can get any of your personal data… you can still fail it if they use cameras and automatic face recognition, so the faster you can start seeing it, the better)

However if you're not an interesting person, it's highly unlikely to matter anyway.


File: 0262ffd65e7a68e⋯.jpg (152.36 KB, 601x1024, 601:1024, 20508136923_9d5bd201df_b.jpg)

what's the cheapest CPU i can buy that would give me the highest single core performance (i can overclock if needed) ?

I'm guessing an 3 or an i5.

What do you recommend?



you need to tell more about this picture, you know

at least how old is she?





>hardware without backdoors

Common sense is avoid Seagate and WD HDDs, avoid Intel CPUs, Bluetooth devices, integrated microphones and cameras unless they have a hardware switch. Buy Librem laptops/PCs.



Purism is a joke. They have Google CSS on their website.



>Buy Librem laptops

Last time I checked, they had flickering screens (low frequency PWM).

Was this shit fixed?


File: 7bab75b14d87cd5⋯.jpg (143.88 KB, 1500x1500, 1:1, 71lUvAGH2JL._SL1500_.jpg)

Has anyone tried this? I want a cheap mouse to have at work. Something with dpi options and clicky scrolling.


File: d04c262451dfbeb⋯.jpg (1.34 MB, 2160x2160, 1:1, 20180421_125613.jpg)


I have some experience with these. My local electronics store sells cheap mice that all have the same general gamer look and identical features. Bought the cheapest one they had (equivalent to 5USD) and it would've been perfect if wasn't for the fact the scroll wheel became 'jumpy' after 2 days (scrolled up or down while middleclicking). Replaced it with the same model in case it was defective, same problem developed after 2 days. Replaced it again with a slightly more expensive model (equivalent to 10USD) and no more problems. Mouse in photo, been using it for 5 months usually at the highest DPI setting. Would recommend.



Looks like ass, but ok. I will see what Tracer has in the UK.


What is the last non-PSP AMD APU's?



Jaguar architecture (2013): Kabini and Temash



>totally open

wrong. Boot firmware is non-free and literally irreplaceable



I haven't used it but you could checkout Gadgetbridge.


Is there anyone here using Linux-libre and a drawing tablet a la Intros? I know at least one Wacom driver is community-made, but is that driver applicable to most contemporary tab,gets, or are there proprietary ones I the mix?

I've read huion uses Wacom drivers, but I've also heard of proprietary drivers throwing a wrench into the equation.

Also, what's a good size? Is 9" a good enough width? Certainly the 5" I'm using is too small. /ic/ keeps telling me I need something big enough to draw with my arm, not my wrist.



wouldn't trust huion since it might shit up unlike wacomshit that i've been using for half decade.

>huion using wacom

no. it's probably xp pen which uses same patent as wacom's

just get the largest bamboo or intuos you can find. touch is a plus but it's pretty useless and is a fucked up support in linux (touch while hover makes this laggy mouse pointer)


Does anyone have an idea when graphics card prices will return to msrp? Any news or rumors that hint when to expect prices to drop?


File: 988bc7290794f21⋯.webm (4.93 MB, 630x630, 1:1, Them.webm)


When you see cryptos becoming illegal or mostly owned by the banking cartel



They're already doing it. There was an 8GB 580 for under $200 today.


I want to replace my Samsung Galaxy Tab S with something that doesn't mercilessly spy on me but can perform the same functions aka high resolution screen for reading PDFs, a good camera on it, etc.

What can I get that might run linux and isn't pozzed? I just looked at ultrabooks that dell sells with Ubuntu already on it but there is no camera on those and they are also unreasonably expensive despite having shit hardware specs.



I was just looking on their site they expect you to pay at least $2,000 if not way more for a laptop that has shit specs. Their prices right now are literally higher than they were in 2017 despite making 0 improvements.



If I am not mistaken though with Dell if your laptop breaks you can get it replaced. My sister had a friend who dropped and destroyed their laptop 5 times and got it replaced every time.



Google is already doing this you can literally take street view down trails.


I'd do it and am planning to do something just like that.



Just download Blender, Krita, and Gimp. There's a few other programs out there too but not worth mentioning which I've all tried. Since it's all free also you lose nothing by experimenting with them. Also, there is absolutely nothing special about photoshop, that you can't do in Gimp.



Prices will not drop any time soon. You're stuck with the current prices for at least 4 years. You can only buy old or used cards, but you're risking buying ones used for mining in the latter case. There's always the budget lineup which hasn't been inflated yet and most of those cards are 100-200 USD.


File: 480fd415b9f66e0⋯.jpg (11.66 KB, 306x500, 153:250, 938222-n0.jpg)

I'm looking at Monoblock Air conditioners for the summer, and I'm wondering how much cooling capacity in BTU/h or W I should target and wether cheaper devices fare as well as name-brand such as Delonghi, or if they don't hold up well (also a matter of safety and support, I don't want to be inhaling propane).

Advice for specific manufacturers or models is very welcome as well, thanks.


File: a6b6e29c146a0f9⋯.jpg (56.35 KB, 1000x800, 5:4, 5YjYpra.jpg)

I want to buy a MIDI keyboard so I can record my shit on LMMS on linux.

IRL keyboards are like 400 bucks where I live that has MIDI to pc capabilities.

Recommend me one from amazon that is cheaper than 200 bucks and I can use it for synthesia and LMMS.


File: f39a07c5bb8c7ca⋯.jpg (394.98 KB, 600x820, 30:41, Cirno.full.2037745.jpg)


I can't speak to the market as a whole, but my Delonghi Penguino has held up 10+ years now.

Minimal issues. Had to replace the thermometer once.

Remember to clean the filter every few months, or it will lose cooling capacity and condensation will start to leak everywhere.

I had a small wall-mounted unit before this, and I wouldn't go back.

As for capacity, that depends on where you live and what your target temperature is. Also, keep in mind that the number of electronics you have running is a factor.

If you want one cheaper, look at reviews. I have a feeling they're all made in China; probably in the same factory. Just make sure it doesn't die after a couple years.



If you're 100% certain crack heads wont rip it out of the wall, get a window unit. Anything with refrigerant will do. They will produce a lot of condensation which is why access to the outside is good for drainage.


Is GTX 750Ti 1GB good enough for emergency GPU?



depends what the emergency is but yeah it should be


File: 9744f66d3cba934⋯.png (100.62 KB, 1162x654, 581:327, Parts.png)

Hey /tech/, I'm outlining a new build and I have a couple of questions. Build is here: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/qzmrr6


>Use case

I plan on dual booting Linux and Windows. I use linux for 90% of practically everything, I will only be using Windows for specialized software (PS, AI, UnrealEngine possibly), Gaming isn't even a secondary concern, but running some relatively recent titles well on high (45FPS+ is preferable)


Around $1200 for the PC, and about $200 for a monitor.


I specifically want to use AMD hardware, I know some Nvidia cards are cheaper but I'm sticking to AMD, so keep that in mind.

>Question 1

Will dual-booting on a 250GB SSD be enough? I won't install much software on the Windows partition anyways.

>Question 2

Is the $50 difference between the RX 570 and 580 worth it? Looking at benchmarks seems to put the 580 ahead by a solid margin, specifically, will a 8GB 570 compare to 4GB 580? They are similarly priced, I want to know if the 4GB make a bigger difference than whatever the 580 has improved upon on?

>Question 3

Need suggestions for a decent monitor, 16:10 is mandatory,.

Lastly, I am new to this thing and it will still take me a while to save up, any things you find that can be improved or added, feel free to let me know.




I'd recommend an m2 SSD over a SATA if you're doing a new build. Also you should look into doing windows shit in a VM.

>Question 3

Dell makes the best 16:10 monitors. I just bought a couple U2415 for about $200 each and they're pretty fantastic.



My first option was to WM Windows to avoid using it's bootloader (if I'm not mistaken), glad to hear it isn't a dumb idea, so I guess I'll do that.

>m2 SSD

Thanks, I found the 860 EVO 250GB, seems to be rated the best, I can filter m2 for (M) and (B+M) does this even matter?

>Dell makes the best 16:10 monitors. I just bought a couple U2415 for about $200 each and they're pretty fantastic.

Oh okay, I was most likely going to go for dells either way, thanks man.



Faster RAM.



lol really ?

manual approval by some commie committee


I'm looking for good speakers without bluetooth for under $20 and replaceable aux cable.

Any recommendations?



Preferably small in size.




A little more then $20 but really nice speakers.


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File: e4ac4bbcf1b5713⋯.jpg (261.44 KB, 1061x1886, 1061:1886, acryl.jpg)


Has anyone here tried to modify their monoblock to have a second pipe for supply air? The reasoning is that taking the air from the room creates a vacuum and draws in hot air from the outside, wasting up to 40% of cooling power when it's very hot according to some engineering studies.

I'll probably order an acrylic glass pane for my window and I'm wondering wether I should get it with one or two holes.


I haven't assembled a PC in about a decade so I've been out of the loop on /tech/.

Having just watch this video on Intel and their business practices https://www.hooktube.com/watch?v=osSMJRyxG0k I'm now looking at working with AMD.

What I'd like to know is if there's any small form factor AMD builds similar to Intel NUC's? Something to play fun games from 5-10 years ago.



There's Fit-PC4 Pro, but it's out of stock everywhere. You're better off building your own mini PC. Ryzen 3 2200G is only 99$ and it's really good.



mini-itx build with either Ryzen 2200G or 2400G... Only con is DDR4 prices.




Thanks guys and holy shit the Ryzen looks good for the price.

But yeah, might have to hold fire until the DDR4 prices go down.



They won't go down for years. You'd see another AMD mini-PC by then.



They won't ever, probably, because once they could (due to things like a "comfy end of coinfags" etc.) they won't anyway due to their likely scarcity at that point.


What are some of the best office chairs that I can get for around $200?



dx racer, they're well made and ergonomic for the price with lumbar support and adjustable elbow support



Buy used

great bargains to be made


File: 5560702085ebb4f⋯.jpg (86.05 KB, 1000x1000, 1:1, 61bQrnMcd0L._SL1000_.jpg)

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I decided to upgrade from my ancient Athlon x3 435 for better vidya and compiling. Based on my research Ryzen 2700X seems like a good deal. But looks like I'd have to upgrade my GA-MA785 and DDR3 ram sticks also.

Logicalincrements is recommending ~$140 mobos for that cpu, so okay I guess. I can see some 8GB RAM for $75. But at this point I'm paying $545 ionstead of $330 for essentially a CPU upgrade. Seems a bit excessive and I doubt I'd see any perf improvement from the mobo or RAM (I already have 8GB).

Budget isn't really an issue but I feel like I'm supporting some kind of jewery here. I don't feel like I'm getting $140 of value out of these mobos and I don't feel like upping to DDR4 is worth the $75. I dunno, can I just get a cheap ass mobo? There's some AM4 ones on pcpartpicker for $50-60. Anyway I can get away with not upgrading RAM?

I also have breddy gud cable management in my case so I'm not looking forward to redoing all that by ripping my mobo out. Plus migrating to UEFI sounds not fun. Looking at AM3 CPUs, FX-9590 is 10k passmark score vs. 17k for Ryzen, and is very cheap. But apparently my mobo doesn't support it (gee, I sure am glad I overpaid for this POS years ago when buying my athlon). Best supported CPU I can find is Phenom 1100T, with passmark 5.7k for $234. Now on the one hand, it's still less than the $545 or whatever for Ryzen upgrade, and 5.7k is still better than my current 2.6k. But on the other hand, who pays 230 bucks for a decade old CPU?

So what's my best option here?

>just suck it up and drop $545 on ryzen like a good goy

>get ryzen but with the cheapest mobo i can find

>overpay for phenom and at least keep my mobo



I don't know, you have to check for your height, but I'd recommend textile instead of pleather because it starts coming off quickly.

The VIVA OFFICE looks nice too.



>They won't ever, probably, because once they could (due to things like a "comfy end of coinfags" etc.) they won't anyway due to their likely scarcity at that point.

Chinks are starting to manufacture their own RAM, which should improve the supply-side of things considerably(at least on the low end).



DDR4 does improve performance compared to DD3. It's difficult to do direct comparisons because most CPUs that support one don't support the other, but doubling the RAM bandwidth is noticeable.

As for the MOBO, let's face it, your current one probably isn't too far from starting to die anyway. And 2700x is 105W TDP CPU, so you probably shouldn't stick it into the cheapest AM4 motherboard you can find. Not saying you need to spend $140 on a high-end x470, but you should steer away from a320 and the cheapest b350 at least. Also take into account that any 300-series need a relatively up-to-date BIOS to support Ryzen 2. You may or may not need to update the BIOS yourself, depending on the motherboard and the vendor.


Im looking for new speakers and i found audioengine p4 and paragon mkii speakers each of them is roughly 80 bucks. Anyone have experience with these? New to speaker buying. I mostly listen to prog metal and technical death metal if that helps. Thanks again. t. Audio newfag


I'm currently looking for a replacement Android phone for daily use.

Some of the specs I'm looking for are

>IP68 rated


>Dual sim

>Decent hardware

>Not over $300

So far I've found mostly lesser known chink brands like Oukitel, Doogee, Nomu and Ulefone that fit the bill.

Their specs look good on paper, but there's little information on their build quality and how long they actually last, not to mention complains of battery issues.

Does /tech/ have opinions and experience with these chink brands or should I play safe and stick to Sony and Samsung models with IP68?

>Why IP68?

I go outdoors in the tropics often enough to worry about rain and natural elements.



>Why IP68?

Good question. IP68 is just marketing nonsense ip67 is just as good in most senarios and there are ip67 rated phones with replaceable battery (samsung s5)

ip68 means you get 30 minutes water resistance at 1.5 meters of submersion

ip67 means you get 30 minutes water resistance at 1 meter of submersion

Honestly you should go for an s5 because you get replaceable battery, it's cheap and it has dual sim.





Correct me if I've got this wrong, but wouldn't IP68 offer some advantage over IP67 from dynamic pressure while moving when submerged?


The lack of port covers worries me somewhat and the fact that it is an older device makes me worry that the seals might have degraded over time. But it's along the lines of something I'm looking for, so thanks for the suggestion.



>little information on their build quality

Fear not, I got you covered.


build quality sucks ass. They make meme builds not knowing what they're doing. Look at K10000 Pro, the device has a large ass battery, but it overheats while charging, 10°C more than any other phone while being charged. It would effectively kill the battery within a year or two. The device's body was terribly designed, requiring an extended mUSB charger/wire because the port is too deep inside the device and not having a LED. And this is only one of their models I had contact with, the others were less shit but had their quirks. Stay away from that brand if you need good build quality.

Doogee was even more shit, though I've only tried a few of their devices and stopped reviewing them.



Thanks anon. That confirms a few of my suspicions of them sounding a little too good to be true.

>Doogee is even more shit

So I assume the same applies to other similar chink brands?


File: fd992de561eb68f⋯.jpg (Spoiler Image, 267.24 KB, 2500x1874, 1250:937, bbq.jpg)

Need a good cooling pad for my laptop that has to be around 15 x 10.25 inches. I'd prefer something under the $30 range but if it's not very durable and only has a lifespan of less than a year then I'm willing to go a little higher since I'll probably have this computer for a while. I've never bought a cooling pad before though so I have no idea what brands to avoid, what specs are better than others, whether I should buy at a physical store vs. an online store, etc.



>same applies to other similar chink brands

Yes. The only good chinks are Xiaomi, Huawei and OnePlus.


I need a device to trim my hair. It needs to:

- have a good, long cord, no wireless or battery crap, no USB bullshit either

- have easily adjustable hairlength mechanism that doesn't fall apart all the time

- not be made of weak, thin plastics, especially parts which will break easily from misdesign induced lever actions

- be easily unjammed or not jam at all

- cost less than 100€

Something like I can see on american army movies, something industrial/heavy duty but not a sheep shearer, please help me >>>/tech/.


File: 7317934dcbb198e⋯.jpg (32.86 KB, 627x482, 627:482, look at me I'm carrying a ….jpg)


Remington HC5855. I have one too. Dropped, been wet and even underwater for a moment and still works.



>virtually indestructible


But looking around a bit, the closest I can acquire is a HC5880. Is that an upgrade?




The GTX 1080 and suich may be fine now, but have fun watching them get slower and slower once the successor generation drops while its competing AMD cards from the same gen have stable or growing performance with the newest drivers 5 years down the line.

t. CY+3 Southern Islands user



Me the owner of a GTX 1080Ti



classic style hair trimmers are pretty durable by design. I bought a chink generic trimmer that was half metal and half plastic, and its been working fine because even if it was manufactured poorly the design makes it durable. If you want warranty for some reason or wanna support american buisness buy the model the other anon said, but the chink devices will work fine too. If anything you should avoid the more expensive modern models because they have way more moving parts that can fail. Its the same situation with gas/electric stoves, newer/older truck engines, iron/alloy crock pots, reusable/one-use razors, etc. if it works buy the older variant.



> 105W TDP CPU

> shouldn't stick it into the cheapest AM4 motherboard you can find.

or you simply look up how many watts the manufacturer say the board can handle.


Any cheap USB 3.0 HDD enclosures that don't fake 4096 bytes per sector? Need to backup a drive and there physically isn't space or cords in the machine to attach the target drive to.


aight yall I got a couple questions bout parts for building a PC

- do I need a dedicated GPU if I don't play gaymes and don't do stuff like rendering etc?

- what's generally quieter, AIO Liquid CPU Coolers or Air CPU Coolers?

- Is 3000 or 3200 MHz Ram necessary, even though CPU and Motherboard Manufacturers say 2667 or 2933 is the maximum?

- Are NVMe SSDs worth it for everyday performance (i.e. load times, responsiveness, etc)?

- For Quiet Operation: More Fans for better airflow at lower RPM or fewer fans for less moving parts overall?

- Are higher-end CPU Coolers potentially quieter than low- to mid-tier ones? (As in, better performance and thus lower RPM to cool sufficiently)



>do I need a dedicated GPU if I don't play gaymes and don't do stuff like rendering etc?


>Is 3000 or 3200 MHz Ram necessary, even though CPU and Motherboard Manufacturers say 2667 or 2933 is the maximum?


>Are NVMe SSDs worth it for everyday performance (i.e. load times, responsiveness, etc)?


>For Quiet Operation: More Fans for better airflow at lower RPM or fewer fans for less moving parts overall?

fewer fans


File: 3cbeeaf4baeb68f⋯.gif (564.42 KB, 800x430, 80:43, 3cb.gif)


1.) No, modern integrated GPUs are more than enough for basic shit

2.) AIO cooler

3.) No

4.) Yes they absolutely are 100 percent

5.) That really depends on your case design. Larger lower RPM fans may not even be quieter, they may be even louder but at a lower frequency

6.) Depends



regarding 5) - In a small form factor case, eg. the ncase m1: https://www.sfflab.com/products/ncase_m1

The limited space obviously is an additional factor...


What is the Thinkpad of digital cameras? I'm talking relatively good characteristics, cheap to get refurbished or used, reliable.


Hows the support for sli in games, in general? For example if I played some botched up poorly optimized game or console port, what are the chances of it actually supporting sli?



Canon has magic lantern on fair bit of their cameras, check their support listings and see what models are geared towards your use.

what form factor?

DSLR, mirrorless, fixed lens?

do you already have lenses you want to use?

doing video with it?

etc etc.



>magic lantern

Isn't that some FBI malware?


File: d1f2a605836d160⋯.png (400.93 KB, 720x672, 15:14, d1f2a605836d160eb17e69d7ae….png)


it's an addon to the canon firmware under GPL.

I don't see why they'd need it when they could just go through canon for their botnet goodies.

you could always grab a 35mm SLR and develop and scan your own film :^)



Let me put it this way: Pretty much no-one even TESTS games with SLi any more.



Why are they using the same name though? Are they trying to make people forget that the FBI did this?



I know diddly squat about photography and just need a cheap, okay camera that won't blur when I try to take photos of static objects for my Pythonista blog. I have no preferences.



inb4 botnet cucks tell you to just use your phone



>Cheap IP cam

Funny thing about IP cams is that they are usualy mini webservers that are extremely easy for a non-credential user to connect to and attempt cracking, code injection,

bruteforce etc.

Can i put a w500 motherboard in my t500 chassis?



>under the $30 range

You can probably buy a better laptop if you spend just higher of your budget.


Theres a t60 w/ dock in my area for 140 canadian loonies (70 toonies) should i buy? full specs

ThinkPad T60 Windows 10 Pro Office 2007 Enterprise CPU Intel Core Duo T2400 (1.83GHz) Bus speed 667MHz Memory 2.5GB of DDR2 667MHz SDRAM (2 DIMMs) North bridge Intel 945GM South bridge Intel ICH7-M Graphics Intel Graphics Media Accelerator 950 (integrated) Display 14.1" TFT with SXGA+ (1400x1050) resolution Storage Hitachi Travelstar 5K100 160GB 7200-RPM SATA hard drive CD-RW/DVD-ROM combo drive (in Ultrabay Slim) Audio HD audio via Analog Devices SoundMAX codec Ports 3 USB 2.0 1 RJ11 for ThinkPad modem 1 RJ45 10/100/1000Mbps Ethernet via Intel PRO/1000PL 1 analog audio headphone out 1 analog mic in 1 VGA out 1 ThinkPad docking station port Expansion slots 1 PC Card II 1 Express Card/54 Communications 802.11a/b/g via Intel PRO/Wireless 3945AGB Bluetooth Fast Infrared Input devices TouchPad TrackPoint Dimensions 12.2" W x 10" D x 1.0-1.2" H Weight 5.1 lbs


My galaxy s5's battery got worn out. since nobody sells spare batteries is it safe to buy one designed for galaxy S5 i9600? Will it spontaneously combust or something?



I'm also interested in an air conditioner but specifically I'm wondering if there's been any advancement here. I want to get something that is electrically efficient and would prefer low noise. I'm willing to import whatever if I have to.

I have access to a window and multiple NEMA sockets but ideally I would like to get away with using an un-grounded 2 pin connector. I don't care if it requires a window or not. I'm just looking for the best option first and then seeing if I can accommodate it.

I'm in a room that's about 20x20ft, I have a desktop on in here 24/7, and I do video calls for work so I can't have the WHIRRRRR be too bad.

Any recs?


I'm looking for an Activity Tracker with stopwatch and pulse reader functionalities.

Possibly with FOSS compatibility

Any suggestion?



Well the laptop itself is decent so I'd prefer to keep it if I can, I just need a cooling pad to put underneath of it when I use it because my legs are starting to get very sensitive to the heat now and it bothers me when the PC is on them for longer than 10 or 15 minutes. I have to sit in a specific area of the house where I unfortunately don't have the desk that I do upstairs in my room because the wi-fi signal is dogshit everywhere else inside.



*The wi-fi signal is dogshit there and everywhere else inside



Get a wifi adapter with a 1W radio and a +5dB antenna. Use laptop on your desk as it was intended. Problem solved.


File: a972a895616fe24⋯.jpg (59.46 KB, 1400x600, 7:3, facepalm.jpg)


>nobody sell batteries to my samsung



tell me how a wifi adapter doesn't solve anon's problems that a plywood plank wouldn't solve?



i quoted the wrong post

but yours are equally retarded

It takes 2 adapters to wifi

The first thing to do is check if the channel is crowded and switch to another for better speed.


I can get a good deal on the recent xps 13. Anybody know if they will be able to take some abuse? I need a Notebook that's very portable with 16GB of ram and those wonderful 4 physical Cores. X1 would cost 1000 europees more and I am not sure if it's worth it.


File: ef0c64bc3b4a9a9⋯.jpg (150.5 KB, 1080x1080, 1:1, 17e84097c3abdf36b74a09cd01….jpg)

Is Mouser.com a safe website to my my electronic stuff from?



File: d24c25964b9f39f⋯.jpg (17.29 KB, 303x301, 303:301, 41QkepX8WhL._SY400_.jpg)

Are there any of these that aren't cheap shit that breaks after a few uses?


This a decent wifi adapter? Have an old laptop that I want to make useful.



Looking for a fitness watch, can't decide between Garmin Fenix 5 & Suunto Spartan Training Wrist HR.

Would like something that auto adjusts training plans, any suggestions?


I want a raspi zero

Any less cucked alternatives?

Orange PIs don't count, had a terrible experience with those


File: 9d5532fa13e6233⋯.png (173.26 KB, 2688x2688, 1:1, 9d5.png)


maybe banana pi


File: bf0c3f80ae9ddb4⋯.jpg (27.93 KB, 500x500, 1:1, asus hyper kit.jpg)

Are these any good? Especially when you want to boot from the drive, I think the mobo has to support it. Anyone have any experiences with M2/pcie/2.5" converters? I've seen other brands with mobos that offer similar converters.



This is a SAS adapter? Do you have SAS hard drives? It's not going to do you much good if you don't.


File: 1c473027b7877f2⋯.jpg (97.25 KB, 1600x899, 1600:899, ASUS-X99-DELUXE-M2-Add-in-….jpg)


"Hyper Kit is an M.2 to Mini SAS HD adapter that gives owners of ASUS motherboards freedom to fit next-generation 2.5-inch NVM Express SSDs with an U.2 interface. This exclusive technology exploits the maximum PCI Express 3.0 x4 bandwidth of 32Gbit/s for SSD transfer speeds that are up to 3.5X faster than traditional SSDs!"

So it's an adapter to use the new U.2 interface SSD's.

Here's another. This one allows the user to use an m2 on a pcie slot. With this one you'd theoretically be able to use an m2 SSD on an older board with no m2 connection, even a pcie 2. There's people using them on boards from different vendors (for instance this asus adapter on a gigabyte mobo) But I imagine it can be troublesome getting them to work, especially if you wanted to boot from it. Just curious about these things that's why I asked if anyone has any experience with any of these adapters (I mistyped converters earlier)




I understand what M2 is and what a PCIE to M2 adapter is. What good is an M2 to SAS adaptor going to do for you if you have no SAS drives?


File: 1876f68ac79993b⋯.webm (1.39 MB, 1280x720, 16:9, difference between a whit….webm)


I'm thinking of getting my first cellphone. I'm not sure if i want it smart or dumb. As I'm a NEET, with government NEETbux who's going to use it to get my life together, I intend to use it for (in descending order):

-A strict method of schedule-keeping by the way of dozens of daily alarms.

-An events calender.

-Written and spoken note-taking.

-Calls/texting family-members.

I desire the best-available versions of the first 3. Looking on the InstallGentoo Wiki It seems anon's primarily recommend android phones and the:

-Google Nexus

-Samsung Galaxy S/Note series

-Motorola Moto G

-Motorola Moto X

-Zenfone 2


-Nexus 5

If you have any recommendations, please say!



Anything that supports a decent lineage OS or a replicant OS if you care about privacy and hate botnet too much.

Are those even available these days? That's like 2010-2014 devices so your only problem would be if they still have a decent battery pack.



You know you can reinforce that one so it doesn't break like roastie. Use your imagination.



>Anything that supports a decent lineage OS or a replicant OS

Such as?



CIA niggers want you to get a smart phone with GPS so they can track you down. Get a burner like the drug dealers use.



What burner phones have:

-A strict method of schedule-keeping by the way of dozens of daily alarms.

-An events calender.

-Written and spoken note-taking.


-Calls/texting family-members?


File: 985268d5777ca27⋯.png (433.8 KB, 1582x900, 791:450, LolWut.png)

File: 183ed60fed65c8b⋯.png (152.58 KB, 1577x709, 1577:709, LolWut2.png)



Why would you pay that much for such a shitty old phone?


File: 32dfb3b36ee184c⋯.jpg (45.78 KB, 429x410, 429:410, 1393283910843.jpg)


If you seriously bought that then I feel genuinely sorry for you. You can get a BRAND NEW Android device for the same price and equivalent to better performance.



motorola is pure botnet

Their update clients encryption got cracked and it turned out they vacuum the phone on contacts and messages multiple times a day being a major battery hog.


File: 137ada2454b4127⋯.png (105.2 KB, 340x340, 1:1, questionmark.png)

Is CGM a meme /tech/?

If not, what's a decent closed loop insulin pump?

Preferably one without bloated wireless botnet shit apart from the sensor.


File: f65880f6083f204⋯.jpg (11.2 KB, 346x250, 173:125, 10928847_1542113199407234_….jpg)


I don't use insulin pumps and I haven't checked my bloodsugar in years so I can't tell you. I did demo a CGM but honestly it wasn't worth it to me, you need to constantly calibrate it or the readings tend to drift. That was years ago though, not sure if newer generation CGMs are any betterinb4 blah blah you're gonna die, my a1c is fine and I don't suffer from loss of low bloodsugar awareness supplies are expensive and pircking your finger is ass anyways. I don't recommend living like I do unless you're really fucking aware of what you're doing and understand the risks


File: 41d8a52defe93cb⋯.jpg (385.41 KB, 1544x1344, 193:168, Untitled.jpg)

Is GPUboss reliable?

I've found an Asus 1050 Ti for roughly $200 and am considering buying it to replace my >2 year old 750 Ti. The test results show 1050 to be superior at the same price I've bought my 750, but the price they list is 10x bigger AND they're proclaiming 750 to be the winner. What gives?



I want a pair of 4k 32"s as dual monitors. (Or similar if you have better suggestions; just looking for a pair of giant monitors, TV or not.) What'd work well for a desktop?




then if you have a desired phone try searching:

XDA lineage OS [insertphonemodel]

Since most of those you mentioned are pretty old the android version would be around kitkat. Upgrading to lineage or replicant gives you android Nougat and/or marshmallow



this. the only reason for getting old phone is no ther than botnet-proofing.

>inb4 baseband


I have a 3-400 dollar upgrade budget currently. My computer power is being kinda bottlenecked by my current processor, which is an AMD 18-5600k APU. I was looking to upgrade but as far as i can tell im gonna also need a new motherboard for any real power difference.

tl;dr motherboard/processor combination in the range of 3-400 dollars that would be an upgrade from my a8 5600-k

the purpose of the computer is newer vidya games, and gamecube/ps2 emulation, though i can do without the latter.

I also already have 16gb of ram, and a 1060 3gb. Didn't buy them, they were gifts. Originally built the computer 4 years ago and havent purchased a part or upgrade myself since.



>Originally built the computer 4 years ago

>I also already have 16gb of ram

Slow DDR3 isn't going to work on new motherboards. Save up at least $500 for CPU, motherboard, RAM, and heatsink/fan.



>Is GPUboss reliable?

Absolutely not, no. It exists to be #1 on the search results to sucker retards. Look up some actual benchmarks.


File: 98f922a8d95ac0a⋯.png (292.34 KB, 1450x938, 725:469, userbenchmark.PNG)

File: bb0c86a66b7797f⋯.png (39.95 KB, 726x767, 726:767, videocardbenchmark.PNG)



Yeah, most of the time it feels like it's trying to shill another card entirely by shoving it's results into the comparison chart.

What is going on with this pricing?


I need a laptop

>700 budget

>8gb ram

>minimum 32gb SSD

>doesn't look like shit

for reference, I think most laptops they're selling today look like shit

thinkpads lookg good to me

I like thin stuff too though


Fitbit used to be botnet. Is it still?

If so, is there a non-botnet alternative to the FitBit?



>activity tracker



Yes, it's botnet.

>non-botnet alternative

If you can get Ubuntu touch to work on a smartwatch then maybe, but anything that tracks you and sends the statistics anywhere online is a botnet.



buy used gaymer keyboards

i got my qpad 100$ for 35$

i also seen corsair red for 50$ on some super sale.


Whats the best way to buy several HDDs? I need 6 or 7 of the same drive (WD blue 2tb) but Amazon limits to 3 per customer and Newegg limits to 2. I could just make multiple accounts, but I was wondering if I'd be able to get any sort of discount whatsoever somewhere for "bulk" buying.


Is there a manufacturer that still makes 125 MB USB sticks? I'd settle with 250 MB as the upper limit. A reliable place for selling used ones would also be okay.



Did you just wake up from a coma?



Apparently people still sell them on ebay from China and Honk Kong. No idea if they're reliable.


Anyone know of a good mp3/flac music player? Just need something portable with long battery life and good quality that can play music, nothing too fancy, nothing over $90.


File: 13558f87e906cd7⋯.png (34.88 KB, 594x205, 594:205, MDR7506.PNG)

I am torn over wither or not I should get a trusty pair of Sony MDR 7506s or a Sennheiser HD 280 Pro

The Sennheiser advertises its sound isolation, but supposedly the MDR-7506 is comparable. I just don't know man



sage for samefag, but I also hear the Sennheiser has worse build quality vs the Sony, and I tend to abuse my headphones. how true is that? Is it just a case of sound isolation vs build quality?




You might as well build a store chain with the lowest price on various mountain peaks in nepal and act surprised no one is showing up. The stupidity sent chills down my spine.

Without any possibility for potential customers to see what the platform is offering, its already dead.


File: 09766eb7b306331⋯.png (727.8 KB, 1280x960, 4:3, ClipboardImage.png)

reposting from the gulag

I got 4x2TB drives about 6 years ago.

They're all full now and I'm thinking about getting

4x10TB drives


I paid ~$75 each for the 2TB 5k RPM, 64MB cache drives.

I'm encountering a lot of stalling around disk i/o even with a lot of memory (so it's not swap/page access).

I figured a faster RPM and bigger cache would help here, but I also need capacity.

I might be able to get away with just doubling my capacity to 16TB with 4x4TB 7k RPM 256MB drives, but I think the difference then is only $200 for a ~24TB loss/gain.

My thought process is, just buy a retardedly large amount of storage that will basically seem like "infinite", it's going to last 6+ years so it's worth the initial investment. We need more performant drives anyway, why not just get ones that are better in every way.





see what the platform is offering



nice now link the to pages together

here is the stuff -here is the client

You only got a few seconds to catch a visitors interest


File: 36845eba08b18d0⋯.png (578.72 KB, 1024x768, 4:3, tired.png)

Not a big question, should I get a Zowie mouse or old Microsoft mouse, my store doesn't have demos so I can only go off of recommendation.




I pay ony $25-$30/TB nowadays. And, for the record, the Desktar NAS drives are fucking excellent. But consider the possibility of drive failure

>They're going to last 6+ years

Don't bet your money on that - just consider yourself fortunate if they do. You need to have backup capacity equal to what data you have to store. Drives go on sale frequently if you subscribe to the Newegg ad emails - I'd say probably once a month you can get HGST Deskstars at roughly $25/TB.

The other part of your post is talking about I/O stalling - with huge-capacity drives, in theory, access will only get slower. What is the I/O stalling you're talking about? Are you trying to game off of them? Video edit?


File: 35e762db384faf0⋯.jpg (260.87 KB, 1500x1500, 1:1, 818n1rxGtVL._SL1500_.jpg)

Hey. I'm looking at either getting an RCA Viking Pro or Galileo Pro for outdoor use. Should I get one with an ARM or Intel based processor?

Is there any other computers great for outdoor use that I can charge with USB?


File: 4330d9fa0ab11ce⋯.png (24.9 KB, 516x236, 129:59, flJcW.png)


Why limit yourself to 5V when you can make a adapter quite easily ?

picture shows a step down but same applies to step up.



Well I was planning to charge it through solar panel. Most portable solar panels charge through USB only.


Reposting from other thread because I am not very clever

I'm considering building a PC to replace my laptop as my main workstation/game system. These are the components I'm looking at. My budget is around the 700-900 dollar range. What do you anons think? Am I good to go or do you see an issue with this setup?

Intel Core i5-8600

Gigabyte B360M DS3H LGA1151 mATX

EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB

2 x 4GB Viper Elite DDR4


Sandisk 240GB SSD

And I'll be using an external SSD from Seagate that I already purchased for use with my laptop. I was considering using an i3-8100 instead of an i5, but I am willing to shell out the extra 100 bucks for the 2 additional cores. I also already own a monitor + peripherals that I am happy with. I don't know what case I'm going to buy yet, so any advice for that would also be appreciated.



>EVGA 450 BT

You might wanna grab a 650w PSU. While it's entirely possible this setup with require less than 450w, you're really pushing it.








Could you elaborate for me? I'm not really familiar with brand differences.



Intel is full of security holes and backdoors.

Nvidia has shit drivers.

Better CPU choice would be 2600X which costs just as much.


Are there any decent ""MMO"" mice out there? The kind with 12 buttons on the side. I know from experience that gayming hardware is all objectively fucking shit, but once I quit WoW I found myself making macros for the buttons and integrating it into my general workflow significantly. Now I've ran into a very specific bug with virtualbox that I'm too big of a brainlet to fix that is hardware specific with my logitech g600 and am considering just getting a different mouse all together.



Get the Klipsch Promedia 2.1 rig and be happy with decent stereo audio and the knowledge that you didn't pay too much.


Will a 120mm AIO be good enough for the 2700X? I'm just hoping to reach the max boost of 4.35Ghz, not to OC beyond that.



I have a zowie FK1, it's been fine so far. It doesn't feel like a tank like my old G400, but the sensor is good.


Are there any cases and peripherals still around that are cover in gay LEDs and other gamergear that only ultra no-taste retards would buy, preferably retro cases but with good ventilation.


What's a reasonably priced printer that won't Jew me on ink?


File: 4425822df8f2686⋯.jpg (8.45 KB, 300x300, 1:1, HP6Lprinter.jpg)


Bought an old LaserJet 6L for a fiver, not a postscript printer though but still works - and laser



Get a laser

Fuck ink



>Will a 120mm AIO be good enough for the 2700X?


>I'm just hoping to reach the max boost of 4.35Ghz

probably not

>not to OC beyond that

>implying 2700 overclocks beyond 4.35

>obligatory 120mm aio is a meme

it can unironically perform worse than the stock cooler depending on the case and quality of aio


Thinkpads are memed out and overpriced now thanks to /g/ and reddit. What's a good sub-$300 laptop now?



>good sub-$300 laptop

doesn't exist


What's a good sub-$100 music player with good battery life?


I just bricked my x60 tablet with trannyboot and didn't even backup the bios.

I know, I know, I may possibly be the dumbest person on the planet. My question is this: what motherboards can I gut from other laptops to salvage this one? I've heard of swapping the t60 for a t61, but would a t series motherboard work? Are they the same thing or not?



The only thing that will help you is vigilance and good research. There's no one-size-fits-all answer. Go to craigslist or a local surplus auction, and see how well it works with GNU/Linux, then look at old reviews of the product and what people say online. Don't settle for anything other than an undeniably good deal. Check to see if the bios is locked. Carry a live medium around with you on your keychain.



You may be surprised to find that some of the best cheap laptops you can find will happen to be ThinkPads, but they'll seldom be the librebootable x200's or dankpad t420's that /g/ loves to meme. More likely, you'll have to take the good with the bad. Bad drivers, poor battery, wear and tear. You have to really know what you want and what you need.



Don't be so quick to hate the gaming hardware. Yes, they're intended for an audience who can't tell the good from the bad, but that doesn't mean there isn't a quality threshold.

Some old gaming hardware can be good if you can tolerate the obnoxious frills. I, for example, have an old Razer mouse. I don't play many video games, but I do use it for cad work. The peripheral buttons are good for macros.

With that in mind, I don't think there's a piece of gaming hardware that's going to be exceedingly good--as in good enough to garner a cult following. That's just not where the money's at.




Spotted the proprietary cucks.


Someone hold my hand and tell me what to get. I need:




>Graphics card

>Wireless card


>No botnet

>Linux friendly

>No modern games, mainly DAW usage

>Average or above, won't struggle with anything, within reason (I don't mean the DAW).

I am probably too retarded to coreboot.



Always start with the CPU.


Depending on your budget, Ryzen 7 2700 or Ryzen 5 2600.


Since you want it to be Linux friendly, you must buy AMD. Stay away from cards before gen 4 and gcn 3 because they have terrible Linux performance.

Preferably pick RX480, RX470, RX560/460, depending on your budget. Since you won't play modern games you might as well get an RX560 or RX460.


Look into any compatible mobo for your build. Mobo, the amount of RAM, and the case is all your choice. Brands don't really matter.


You'll want higher clock RAM, always buy dual channel. So either get 2x4GB or 2x8GB.

This is overall a solid build. You can get away with buying the lower spec parts listed and still have amazing and above average desktop performance.


Ryzen 5 2600


-go to pcpartpicker and start assembling your PC there. It will automatically list compatible mobos for you.





Thanks man. Decided on:

>Ryzen 7 2700X


But I cannot find a compatible motherboard anywhere. It's as if nobody has ever used a 2700X before. A lot of the motherboards I'm finding, that seem ok initially, have some (((Intel))) ethernet fuckery. Been looking all day. What will just work? Needs to be Windows 7 compatible too.


I want to buy a new processor for my Thinkpad T520 because sometimes I play vidya on it, currently it has an Intel Core i5 2520M, I was thinking of buying this (https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Core-i5-4690K-Processor-BX80646I54690K/dp/B00KPRWB9G) should I?



>desktop processor

>in a mobile socket

>2 generations newer

Do I even have to tell why that's retarded in multiple ways and won't work?



you mean their pro line for office use



Yes, apparently I'm a brainlet, what should I be buying?



check what cpu:s are supported by the chipset and go from there http://www.youcpu.com/en/chipset/Mobile-Intel-QM67-Express-Chipset-Intel-BD82QM67-PCH


Can anyone suggest a decent budget monitor stand that supports portrait mode?



Just use a standard vesa wall mount, some monitors will allow you to mount them in portrait so you might want to try that first


Thoughts on WD'S My Passport 4TB drive? https://www.wdc.com/products/portable-storage/my-passport.html#WDBYFT0040BWT-WESN

I've heard very good reviews about it. There's a small problem though, somewhere it says:

>Formatted for Windows® 10, Windows 8 or Windows 7 operating systems. Requires reformatting for other operating systems.

Does this mean that I'll have a hard time transferring stuff from Win7/8/10 PCs to XP PCs? Is this easy to circumvent or will I have to backup all my stuff on a Win7/8/10 PC every time I want to use this drive on an XP PC?



>western digital

Enjoy your backdoors m8



Not much of a concern as I connect it to PCs 20 times a year tops...I think I'll be good (if that's an answer to your concern). Eitherway, got a better recommendation?



What are your thoughts on the kindle paperwhite?



All Amazon devices are part of a horrifying botnet designed to exhaustively catalog the innermost thoughts of a man before setting out to enslave him.

Consider Kobo. https://us.kobobooks.com/

There's also a slightly older technology that offers unparalleled battery life and privacy.



File: 76e02eeed354d23⋯.webm (7.48 MB, 640x360, 16:9, Fight Against A Somewhat ….webm)


Thanks for the input. I'll keep an eye out for deals. Maybe something for memorial day soon.

>The other part of your post is talking about I/O stalling - with huge-capacity drives, in theory, access will only get slower. What is the I/O stalling you're talking about? Are you trying to game off of them? Video edit?

Different disks have different tasks.

of the 4 I have: database, my media(writing, video editing, video capture, etc.), other media (reading, music and shit), virtual machines.

The database one is the one which takes the biggest hit, I don't think I can do much other than throw more resources at it.


Always nice to be reminded, but for the moment I have it covered. Anything I care about is also offsite.

Most of the used space is volatile. All the important stuff to backup, compresses really well and isn't large to begin with, thankfully.


File: 9dc1509e96410dd⋯.png (9.45 KB, 562x140, 281:70, Untitled.png)



I didn't realize that sale ends today. I ended up getting them for $29.499/TB before tax and got obliterated with taxes at $31.859/TB.

Thanks Pennsylvania. At least the promo code softened the blow.

Given the size and specs of them, I'm still content with this decision. It's an upgrade in every regard and I needed the space. Time to download a ton of siterips, romsets, archives, etc. that I'll never even look at.


File: e51fa1c7d78fdaf⋯.png (61.37 KB, 2000x1964, 500:491, Microsoft_OneNote_2013_log….png)

Best notetaking app for Linux?

I need something with good drawing tools, and the ability to tag notes and search the tags. Any recommendations?



I use windows 10 and onenote. It's decent just for the checklist but not much else tbh. Take notes on a text editor.



but i need to drawfag in my notes


When is a good time to buy parts for a new PC? Are GPUs ever going to deflate in price?



>Are GPUs ever going to deflate in price?

Not anywhere in the next 4 years.



Absolutely not. I've bought several in excellent condition for below $100. You have to be patient when searching.



certainly not

The cheap ones from ali express is crap

any realteak from 10 years ago beat it.


Whats the best way to get started with electronics? Arduino, rasp pi? i want to start making shit but dont know where to start.


File: 5f6a2b942eabbbe⋯.jpg (1.24 MB, 1200x1587, 400:529, 5f6a2b942eabbbe0f197710659….jpg)

My phone contract is about to run out on my HTC M10. I'd keep the same phone and go on a sim-only plan but the battery is fucked bigtime, and Carphone Warehouse refuses to fix it citing user error. (How is HTC's internal warranty, will they do something about it? How simple is the replacement of an M10 battery?)

Anyway, Carphone warehouse is trying to hardsell me a new contract with some garbage like 1000 minutes and 4gb of data with a "Free" HTC a9s (lel) handset. Im not interested in getting assblasted by these faggots, so my question is thus: What phones on the market would you say are the "best" or most desirable from a /tech/ standpoint? Primarily i use it for internet access and watching videos, so good speakers, screen, and battery life are the main concerns, and what providers give the best deals (In the UK)

Alternatively how can i squeeze the most out of Carphone Warehouse?

I know this is somewhat basic-bitch tier but im not that knowledgable on cellular phones. Please enjoy this image of Fio in return for your time. Danke schoen.




The rest of your post makes sense



Thanks for your input, Varg.



What country are you in?



Nevermind, I see that you said already. Sorry that I can't help and cluttered your replies.



Htc10 is hard to change battery on


Is Krita the best alternative to Paint Tool Sai if I don't want to use Windows?



Nokia 7 plus is worth a look


File: c2c7c96124f9647⋯.png (626.64 KB, 1000x1000, 1:1, YubiKey-4-1000-2016.png)

What's the deal with these U2F keys? I currently use KeePassXC and SMS 2-factor authentication for everything, but being able to use a little USB device for authentication seems pretty cool. I've heard yubikey went closed source for some reason though which is concerning to me. Are they worth getting or should I just stick with what I already use?



Adam Langley did a couple of reviews of security keys between August and October of last year. You might find his information helpful.




What's currently the best accelerator for a Amiga 500?

Any up and coming worth holding out for?



sounds like bullshit

The only problem i ever encountered is keyboards wont detect until operating system is loaded (cant get into bios)


Is a Ricoh GR II still worth it or have top of the line smartphones rendered fixed lens compacts obsolete?



DSLR - compact - lolphone


I;ve got 8 gb of DDR3L lying around and I need to find something to build it with. Any ideas? Thinking of stuffing a 1090t on a AM3+ board but I'm wondering if there are any better ideas.

I'm also getting enough to bump the ram up to 16 GB with the same memory


I plan to make some kind of expensive purchase soon on the very small chance that it could help fill a temporary void in my extremely boring, tired neet life. I already have all I need, this purchase would be only for convenience and even then it's probably just superficial money-wasting.

But I don't care so here's the idea: I'm thinking of either buying a nintendo switch or a tablet pc so I can play video game shit and have a semi-pc in my bed. But for nintendo switch buying full-priced games would probably be fucking retarded and extremely expensive in the long run, so if there's no softmodding options available yet I might just go with a tablet pc and stream games directly from my PC with a gtx 1080, but if the switch's games really are mindblowing maybe I'd change my mind. I previously tried using my phone for game-streaming and it's not absolutely terrible, but the screen is way to fucking small to play anything other than maybe GBA games. Even PSP and DS games seem too small on this 5.5 inch screen (does that even make sense I thought the psp's screens is even smaller than 5.5 inch. Maybe I just can't get used to this small screen size in general)

Does anyone have any opinions on this? Anyone tend to use some sort of device on their bed to watch anime or play games on? Is the convenience worth it to you? FYI I'm at home pretty much 24/7. I guess this is really blogposting too, so yeah pls help anyway



Check out GPD WIN 2. It's somewhat pricy, but the game library is basically anything you can run on a laptop. So GB/GBC/N64/NDS/PS1/PSP/PS2/DC games (which you can get for free), with Wii having limited support. And, of course, PC games which you can also torrent or use your GOG/steam library. It plays most games well, though not all AAA games run well on it. But, you can stream games from your PC instead of playing natively. The screen is 6 inch.

>Even PSP and DS games seem too small on this 5.5 inch screen

PSP games are made to run on 3.8 inch screens with a 480x272 resolution. You don't want to run them on anything larger than 720p otherwise they'll look like shit. So you can't say 5.5 is small when it's almost twice as big as the intended resolution. Same with DS.



>PSP games are made to run on 3.8 inch screens with a 480x272 resolution. You don't want to run them on anything larger than 720p otherwise they'll look like shit. So you can't say 5.5 is small when it's almost twice as big as the intended resolution. Same with DS.

no, they look fine on a combination of 24 inch screen + 1080p resolution forced via emulator. I played PSP games (have about 200 hours on monster hunter freedom + dissidia 012 combined) on my normal 24 inch monitor and it feels really nice, whereas when I'm in bed playing on my phone (with that same resolution downsampled) it's microscopic in comparison, but I used to own a psp when I was younger too. It just doesn't feel right, maybe the high resolution simply doesn't feel right on smaller screens, I probably have to revert it back to native psp resolution for specifically the phone screen


nah I just checked and that price seems insane. I already have all the graphical horse power I need, I want only a good, colorful (screen that is, my galaxy j7 phone has a beautiful "super amoled" screen, I wonder what's the next best option for tablets), moderately big (nintendo switch 7inch to maybe about 10inch) size barebones tablet that I can attach some kind of tablet-specific gamepad to



Dont that shit have a "dual bios" ?

a factory rom backup if you fail with the flash.


File: b984d81f2623063⋯.jpg (428.99 KB, 1920x2560, 3:4, pomada.jpg)


It's soft bricked - just reflash the bios using a raspberry pi. Cheap and easy.


Hello /tech/,

I plan to buy new parts for a desktop computer, just your regular tower (with ATX MB) that would allow me to play, record and watch a couple of things. Although I have quite a tight budget and try to save some costs where I can. I already have a pc that come with a power supply of 600 watts but Logical Increments recommends a power unit of 550 watts (Corsair CX550M if you're curious).

So I know it will go well with the CX550M but couldn't I just keep my actual power unit and save a some bucks ? Or there will be a risk for my new components (basically everything else would be new) because of the overpower ? I'm not quite sure but I was under the impression that the power supply only provides the amount of energy that was necessary and not a constant maximum flow (maybe under some restrictions, I won't try to run a toaster with it).

Anyway I don't really have a clue when it comes to power unit, enlighten me /tech/ ! And thx for your time.



It depends what hardware you are planning to run you have to calculate the power requirement and check the amp delivery on the 12v rail so its enough to power the graphics card.

For a low end medium build 550w is more then enough



The best buy are used phones

Stay away from the flagship line and go for the oddity models people dont recognize, that way you can score great hardware at a bargain.

This require some research on your part so you know what you are buying.



The original OPO is really solid. I've had mine for about 4 years now and never had any issues, nor does it show any signs of stopping. Literally ticks off every point:

>cheap-ish, especially used



>GPS, use OsmAnd or Maps (fdroid), don't install gapps under any circumstances

>camera, used to scan engineering homework

>not Lenovo branded



>couldn't I just keep my actual power unit and save a some bucks ?

Don't be this retarded. Saving money on PSU is the stupidest thing you can do. Your current one could be bad and burn your entire mobo even if it does work on your current setup.



It wont

at worst the graphics card will be power throttling



>it won't

It's possible if his PC is old.




I'm not settled on anything yet but I'll go with the "Fair comp" of Logical Increments so RX 560 or GTX 1050 for the GPU with the ASROCK AB350 as a MB


Yeah I thought about it too but that was true ages ago, I was wondering if nowadays setup were somehow different.


Still, I'll be left for a few days with a brand new computer that doesn't work until I can obtain a new power supply although I do like that better than burning the whole thing to the ground. (pun)


The point is to buy a new setup.

Thx everybody I'll do more research before deciding.


File: 4777942694f1e57⋯.jpg (88.01 KB, 680x834, 340:417, dominic.jpg)

My vpn is almost up, what's the least fucked company this month? Speed's important



>The point is to buy a new setup.

He/you said

>re-use the old PSU

If your CURRENT PC/PSU is old (4+ years), you risk burning something.



computers dont combust when they are 4 years old






apparently not to a few


Any idea what CPU cooler I should get? Ideally i'd like it too adequately cool an 8320e OC'd to 4.0 or 4.2 GHz, and be able to use it on a Ryzen board when I upgrade.

I've been looking at Cryorig stuff, but still not sure what I should get.



Coolermaster Evo 212 all day every day.


Does it have the keylogger? Does it send your browsing history to Google? Or does it just do typical Google analytics stuff. The main problem that I'm facing is that I'm using Debian, and basically the only browsers using up to date technologies is Chromium and Firefox. (Midori and Qupzilla don't load certain websites I use)



>she hasn't installed icecat



What's a good mechanical keyboard that's cheap, but has ridgid build quality? I don't want any gay RGB shit.


Anyone here did a recent purchase on a decent thinkpad or some good portable hackerman machine?

I'm looking for something cheap and portable preferrably with a working battery so I can hax open or private wifi networks.

I'd like to know

>the current price

>hackerman scale out of 10 (upgradability, portability, botnet, etc.)

>opinions on your purchase or if you plan to

Other hackerman goods are also welcomed here.

Another one

Will yagi or other directional antenna let me hax a wifi from afar and have decent Rx Tx (excluding the fact that other users can ARP me or kick me from the network because they lack the hacksec)???

Let's say I'd like to connect to a nearby mall in my town to save money and have anonymity. Will it work or should the other party need a directional antenna too?



Cracking public wifi is not a good idea. As for cheap hackerman machines:

PowerBook G5: They're furnaces; but, they're free of any botnet and you can service them (somewhat) well. Try to put a PATA SSD inside these, and put a sticker over the Apple logo. Hackerman rating: 8.5/10.

ThinkPad T60: Last good ThinkPad, free of the ME. The most powerful machine listed. Easy to service and upgrade; make sure you find one with a keyboard manufactured by NMB. Hackerman rating: 9/10

ThinkPad T4x: Free of the ME and the build quality is exquisite. The keyboards also feel like a dream to type on; but these machines are hard to find in good condition. Put a PATA SSD in this one too. Hackerman rating: 8/10.



>PowerBook G5


Also, none of these should cost more than 100$ (and that's if you're getting one in perfect condition).



Need a new case that can handle 9 or more HDD, that isn't too pricy, doesn't matter if it's not 9 3.5" bay I can live with using adapters in 5.25"


File: 584eb71ae6b9477⋯.jpg (92.66 KB, 500x333, 500:333, (((Bernie))).jpg)

I'm looking to make a small bulk purchase of 11 laptops for a small non-profit organization (an art school). I'm hoping to keep it under $2500 dollars and get units with i5s and 8gigs of ram.

Any idea what my best bet would be?



So after looking around for a bit here's what I've got, which ones aren't shit, with a know flaw (did a quick search on each couldn't find anything big but you never know nobody talked about how shit the higher end bitfenix cases were either and yet I still have to replace the piece of shit 4 years in) or have something specific to them that make them better

>Cooler Master N400

>NZXT Source 210 Elite

>Cooler Master CM 690 III

>Fractal Design Define R4

>Fractal Design Define R5

>be quiet! Silent Base 800

>NZXT H440



Recently built a 20TB (4TB seagate x6 RAID 5) server in the Source 210, it gets the job done well. No problems with assembly, cheap as can be, and looks like it has decent airflow (haven't actually tested it though). Only downside is no dust filters and it's possible it might have noise resonance issues from the thin steel (again haven't tested).

What is your use case anon? Out of sight server like mine or something to display on your desk and play vidya on?



Gaming / retro gaming station with loads of storage.

Don't care about appearance much, would rather avoid gaymer looking shit though, noise ain't too big of a deal either but vibration is a minor concern (although if need be I can just use anti vibration plates under the thing)

After checking a few other thing I also realize that the Source 210 elite doesn't have the right GPU clearance (285mm) so that's out.

I've also added a few others to the list of cases I'm considering

>NZXT Phantom (the no number one)

>Thermaltake Core V71

>IN WIN 707

Currently heavily considering the V71 and Fractal R5 over the others.



If you're willing to shell out enough for a Fractal R5 I'd go for it. Super easily accessible dust filters, doesn't look gaymer and silencer communities actually like it (good cooling with no resonance).

Shoutout to SilentPCReview.com (RIP) for having the best case reviews: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1422-page1.html

Other options are looking at budget cases again (all those Silverstone, etc. $50 cases with fixed hard drive cages). In my area at least there is always at least one Lian Li full tower on craigslist for $50-75, that would also get the job done in style.


Looking for alternatives to Surface Pro.

Portable computer and screen drawing tablet built in that has pressure.

Something that would allow me to install linux would be nice but not necessary.

For now, I guess something close to 1000$ or under if possible.


I'm looking for a devide that's portabe (pocket sized if possible), has a keyboard, and can run some form of real (none of that google android bullshit) linux, are there any reasonably priced options?



GPD Pocket

GPD Win 2 (not reasonably priced)

Gemini PDA (no longer reasonably priced)

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