Looking to buy something but aren't sure what to get? Ask here.
>Internal 180 W PSU
you may need a more powerful PSU, just keep that in mind.
Any recommendations on a low profile battery holder for game boy carts? I'm replacing some CR 2025 batteries, but I may as well install a better long-term solution than taping or soldering in a new battery. I've seen people suggest CR 2016 holders because they're smaller and fit more easily, but I saw a low profile 2025 holder recently I'd prefer to use if possible. I just can't find the link for some reason. If a 2032 holder is somehow able to fit that would be even better, but a 2032 battery barely fits even when soldered in.
On that note, what's some good soldering equipment for someone who will just do occasional small electronics repairs and not much else?
Hey guys, I need a workhorse PC (autocad) that can also handle some fairly intensive gaming (simulators, openworld)
My budget is $1000-$1500
pic related is what my school uses, what are some better options? Doesn't need to be overkill.
Any advice on mp3 players? Seems like most have been stripped back and lost features. Many of which were useful (play all in a folder for example)
I have an old white logo Zowie FK1, and I'm looking to get a new mouse because they the white mouse wheel looks rancid and double clicks. Otherwise I love it, although it could be a bit wider, so I'm looking at an FK1+ to replace it.
Do the new BenQ ones have the same plastic finish as the old one? I've tried an EC1A and sent it back because it felt subpar compared to my old one.
Are there any other mice with adjustable DPI that don't need drivers that have comparable ergonomics? the low profile really suits my grip.
which android app is allow transaction / buying cryptocurrency with google play balance? i needed it for bit domains
My G700s starts to age, what is a good replacement for it?
>At least equal sensor
>Long battery life
>RGB doesn't matter longer battery life is better
Is the G900s worth it? The new mice look like trashy RGB shit and I'm a person who spend 300 € for RGB fans. They have less buttons. Money isn't a huge issue as long as it can keep a power user like me happy for another six years.
i'm looking for a cheap (under $200) DSLR to use as webcam/vlog.
webcam as in for streaming? i've heard they're not great for that.
panasonic micro four thirds cameras are great for video and have swiveling screens for vlogging, you can easily get a used one.
can you give me a specific model? pls
Lumix G6 maybe, depends on your local used market.
actually scratch all that, do you need the ability to change lenses or take photos?
no, i just want somthing that looks good, not a shitty webcam quality
There are a lot of options in between your shitty laptop webcam and a big boy camera. Anything that either works as a webcam or outputs clean HDMI should be suitable for streaming.
good dynamic range
35mm focal length
can use it for live streams (USB)
What are you wanting to stream?
my face, mostly.
I want to major in computer science. Anybody here have experience with western governors university?
I just looked it up and WGU is an online university. Why would you do that? You can go to a recognized university and you won't have to constantly explain why you chose WGU to every person/employer you meet. Even normal unis have online courses, you could probably do the majority of your studies online anyways. At first I thought that WGU was a """university""" of phoenix type deal, not a good impression if you can do better.
Does anyone have a good guide for parts to use in a NAS? My external hard drive is starting to croak and I want to actually start backing up my stuff with raid instead of jbod.
I know about freeNAS, it's just the build that I need some advice with.
>every single recommended system is "israel" inside
Just fuck off
Thank you. I'll look through the paper.
Is 1440p on a 27" diagonal acceptable for a desktop monitor, or will UI elements and text (non-scaled from default, as it more or less sucks in pretty much every OS) be way too small for comfort? Is 1920x1200 on 24" a better option?
>completely gets rid of ME
Literally not possible on any consumer system made in almost a decade.
>The ancient netbook I'm using now can barely run firefox
Pentium III performance ftw (but hey, it's not vulnerable to Meltdown)
>the tiny window
1024x800 outghtta be enuff for anybody I guess
>Also I want to be able to disable secureboot or any faggotry like that
Better just stick to the ME-free netbook
As opposed to 1440i I imagine
Any great introductory books I can read about computer science/programming that aren't textbooks?
Not really. The 'p' suffix just makes it clear that the number represents a vertical screen resolution.
Lel, 1024x600 obviously, pardon the brainfart
If your skin is too rich in melanin to type out the full resolution just say 2k or 2.5k
CODE by Charles Petzold might be of interest. It's more about concepts rather than practical stuff (you can go ahead and dabble in assembly on your own though once you're past half of the book) and it's almost two decades old, it's a great read nevertheless.
Looking for a new wireless keyboard, has anybody tried the Logitech K270, Lenovo Professional Wireless or Cherry KW2000?
for what reason
2k is marketing bullshit that doesn't mean anything in particular.
They all look equally unappealing. Ditch the keypad and get one with a trackpad like the Logitech K400+. If this is for desktop use, get a real keyboard you fucking monster.
Is there any desktop keyboard available equipped with a Thinkpad-style trackpoint?
Neither does 1440 with the ultrawide meme gaining ground
>2k is marketing bullshit that doesn't mean anything in particular.
This. Also, vertical resolution almost always implies the horizontal one (e.g. 1080p or 1200p imply 1920 px/line, 1440p implies 2560 px/line, etc.)
Anyone who speaks of ultrawide is expected to be explicit about it, otherwise 16:9 or 16:10 is safe to be assumed 99.5% of the time.
Lenovo sells USB Thinkpad keyboards. Unicomp sells a proper keyboard with a trackpoint. Not sure if it's any good.
Quickly putting it away for cleaning and when I need desk space for handwriting, but I guess I have better options with removable cables.
That doesn't change the facts that using the progressive scan suffix is superfluous and that using the k notation is more correct.
Still dodging the actual question. Are desktop monitors with PPI larger than 100 tolerable (if no UI scaling is used, as it suck ass), or will it just cause you to squint and fuck up your eyesight?
just get a board with a removable cable.
Eyesight gets fucked by keeping the same focal length for too long, squinting has fuck all to do with that.
I'll read that, thank you.
Hey /tach/, I've been reading this on the internet lately but I'm not sure about it: Are hapas superior to whites?
No, only Armenians are superior to whites
What are some good ways of getting rid of old computer parts? For example, I have a power supply, motherboard, etc. that are all still functional, but I don't really have a use for. Do I sell them? If so, where is the best place to do so?
The Yoda II. I had it for two weeks and returned it. It just didn't work right like my chinkpad.
Is a Orinoco Gold PCMIA WLAN card of any practical interest/use nowadays, or is it a relic item? Supposedly it only supports 802.11b?
It's practical if you're trying to build a computer to run an old OS to run old software.
Ok, so it's a relic item essentially.
11b/g have better reception if you're trying to connect at a large distance (few miles).
ebay if US
It's pretty easy to fix switches. Just spray paint over the white color.
>Are there any other mice with adjustable DPI that don't need drivers that have comparable ergonomics? the low profile really suits my grip.
I'd suggest a4tech n70-fx.
Not the best mice but it's not that bad. If you want the best dpi look for 'sunplus' on it's specs. It's the best final sensor ever. Sadly it's the nobrand chink mice that have them usually and big brands DON'T and profit off of worse/cheap sensors.
Is it worth buying a old i5/i7 server refurbs when specdown fucks its performance completely and it doesn't support every GPU (bios lockdown) or is it much worth building a new ryzen desktop?
I'm not very inclined when it comes to desktop, what's a good minimal ATX board for ryzen? I heard I should be looking for am4 but I don't know where to start.
depends. they usually claim never to share to third parties but share them to first party company who owns them like google :^).
they also are obliged to share unlimited access to LEA and governments but keep in mind even the tech corporations are right now part of that 'government' and there's also stuff happening under the table.
if you strictly want privacy go with a tourist SIM card and modem for everything social/shopping or whatever links back to your plain identity.
Doing stuff that you don't want linked to you, you'll need anonymity. Most VPNs are complete sellout. Notice the p in VPN is private. It's for privacy, not for anonymity. If you want complete anonymity you have to rebuild the infrastructure from ground up and it must be something that govs won't have official access over it, like say reverse SSH shadowsocks + other obscuring methods, like what chinks do in China where gov monitors online activity day and night and block access outside the great firewall.
>11b/g have better reception if you're trying to connect at a large distance (few miles).
But if the card is just 802.11b, will it be even compatible with anything else (such as g or n, let alone ac etc.)? Hardly any use in it if it can detect just b networks, is there.
Europeons need to burn in a tar-pit. Disgusting
These are our enemies. Why are we supporting them?
I love Donald Trump! Heil Israel MIGA 2020!!!
DAILY REMINDER THAT THE MODS ARE COMPROMISED MOSSAD/CIA SHILLS
Yeah, right, and the moon is made of cheese.
I love Donald Trump! Heil Israel MIGA 2020!!!
Why is there so much racism in this thread?
I'm looking for a cheap PC for gaming, but I don't care about anything released after 2012. Where are some good places to look around, and most importantly what price should I expect to pay? Should I be building my own or just trying to snag something used?
I'm shooting for something with 8GB ram, 1GB+ graphics card, decent processor.
and to clarify by anything, I meant games, not computers or parts or anything like that
I might have to start managing a small team of developers, software deployment and infrastructure, but I'm not up to date on current practices and technologies.
Any recommended literature on DevOps, or should I avoid the meme altogether?
The Practice of System and Network Administration by Limoncelli
If I wanted a "all in one" phone or tablet, what would you guys recommend? I'm going back to school and I'm thinking of just getting a new phone with a Bluetooth keyboard and using that for everything rather than lugging my old laptop around.
Side note, has anyone here looked into the Ubuntu Touch OS, and if so what were your thoughts?
Is there any 5.25" card reader worth recommending? It seems like almost all are 3.5". Was looking at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xT-JH_NdIk but a lot of comments say it's a piece of shit which breaks memory cards. Anything actually good and reliable out there?
just get a 3.5" to 5.25" bracket
How often are you using memory cards? Most people should invest in a decent USB card reader.
Are the modern unicomp buckling spring keyboards any good?
But a 5.25" device has the potential of being more functional due to more space available for connectors. Aren't there any good 5.25" all-in-one card readers with USB ports, audio connectors etc.?
Anyway it's a bit ironic given that 3.5" bays were intended for floppy drives which have fallen out of use long ago.
That's like saying that it's better to have a USB optical drive rather than one installed in to the case. Do you believe that an external peripheral device must be better than an internal component device?
GPD MicroPC or wait for the F(x)tec?
No just get the GPD and install real Linux on it Or stick with Windows 10 which is still better than Androidshit
To be fair I also need a new phone, i'm still using a N900 and it's really slow.
You really only need to send like 150 dollars max on an Android phone that can browse the internet and shit decently nowadays
I want a ThinQ G7 and for some reason it is $200 cheaper to buy stock than from the T-mobile store. Other than swapping SIM cards would I need to do anything else to make it work?
Is this a good value/dollar phone? I can afford a more expensive one but I don't do much other than google maps, meetup and bumble
Anyone know any good and affordable tools for composing music? Mainly hardware side? I have trouble getting into some programs just using mouse and keyboard; it feels like I need something tactile.
I'd mainly be composing techno-style stuff.
octacore, 4gb, qhd, $400
yes its good
search around if you can get it a little cheaper
So after about a decade my PSU died. what are some good brands or models in the 500W-600W range these days?
Best tablet for reading manga? I got rid of my 4-5 year old Oneplus One last year and switched to a dumbphone, but I really miss being able to lie on my side in bed and read manga.
Are tablets even still at thing?
Do any of you guys have experience with phone/tablet replacement parts from China? I need a new digitizer and it's pretty cheap to get one from AliExpress. I have the device disassembled and I can easily put it back together when I get my hands on a new digitizer, I just want to know if there is any reason not to order a new part from China.
most of phone tablet parts are manufactured in china. no problem buying from them
if you want ORIGINAL part you will have to search for it usually more expensive than a copy part ask seller if it is original part
sometime problem with delivery or lost in post, never arrive or very long delivery time more than 3 weeks sometimes.
but if u contact seller that your part did nit arrive they will refund u moneys or send u a new one
anything that can do pdfs or epubs (but ideally both) and lets you zoom in on pages should be good, be it a tablet, phone, or e-reader
obviously they have to be able to display images and not just text
Mine fits that criteria but I'd fucking kill myself if I had to watch anime on the thing.
Unless you were streaming there's no fucking way a tablet could even handle 10bit encoded 1080x1920 BD rips of anime. That shit is hardware intensive.
Tablet SoCs tend to be outdated, but I'm sure you can find one that can decode that in hardware.
Im looking for an ios app that functions nearly identical to Google Docs while also not being google docs because fuck Google. Company I work for hands us ipads with keyboards and i might as well make the best of it. Namely the required function i am looking for is the ability to create outlines similar to google docs where i can just link part of a page to jump to another part of a page.
Anyone have opinions on TCL brand TV's?
Excuse the boomer question
Decent products with bad QC. Buy it in a store and plan to exchange it.
Looking for a pirate IPTV service. Preferably one that accepts BTC payments.
he was talking about just reading manga, requirements are way lower for that
I'm on the search for a new laptop. These are my specifications. My price range is around $700.
Very good AMD CPU (I play a lot of CPU-intensive strategy games while watching Netflix on another monitor)
Mediocre AMD dGPU (just enough to play basic 3D games like Modern Warfare 2 and Skyrim at high settings)
400+ GB SSD
older top of the line samsung tablets are pretty good for that and have third party rom support most of the time.
I use an SM-T320 for manga and shitty lewd doujins, it's good if I ignore the charging issue.
Recommend me a cheap laptop to put Linux on.
I got a 100$ Amazon gift card. I was looking forward to a new mechanical keyboard.
I was looking at an Unicomp Model M, but I think I would prefer something more quieter. Anyone got an idea?
do you have any reference/preference for what you want? linear, tactile, clicky, programmable, form factor, rice etc etc. deskthorityhas plenty of info on this if you don't know or just want to research more.
buckling springs are fantastic if you type a lot or just want a good feel, though the reset can be annoying with gaming if you do that. I personally like the sound so I don't mind it.
whatever thinkpad of the x or t series you can afford
Is this a scam? https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-OLED65C9PUA-Ultra-Cleaning/dp/B07Q41617D
It's cheaper then any other store and includes a free Xbox, seems to good to be true.
I'm trying to find a PCMCIA to SD adapter and Expresscard to USB 3.0 for my ThinkPad. Where is the best place to find obscure things like that?
Boomer-dad wants a new laptop, but he also says the macs are too expensive. I could just pick whatever with an SSD and some 2 GHz from whatever McOutlet, but I was wondering if there's a particularly good fit for miserly parents that just want device to write emails and do banking on.
Is £350 a good price for a laptop or should I go higher? It's for everyday use.
Too less goyim, better spend at least £1000 sir. You also need latest Windows 10 for great video performance sir.
what do you think?
(pic 1) Lenovo Thinkcentre M73 Mini Tower Intel Core i5 (4570) 3.2GHz 4GB DDR3 250GB HDD
run OS from a 480GB SSD
use the 250GB HDD for storage
add another 4GB RAM
get a decent video card that will handle dual monitors
run Linux KXStudio (pic 2) for home or garage band music recording
don't have to worry about sound card, I have a mixer that plugs in
go to pawn shop
get laptop under $200.00 easy peasy
And this thinkpad - under $100:
The tower is okay, for thinkpads stay with the mainline, t,x or w
that's a "T" though, right?
Botnet. Just use wireguard or openvpn.
no, it's a sl 510, a budget multimedia thinkpad from 2009
get something newer, i5 2k or later
Nigger that doesn't work with sone motherboards that DO support USB optical drives.
What he wants is an optical drive emulator. Zalman and IODD make them, but they're $40+
>just get a ssd and an external enclosure
<I want something for my keychain.
m.2 to usb adapter
How is it botnet? It seems like a great solution to the privacy issue.
on second thought... maybe not.
>I was hoping that 2-bit MLC ssd's wouldn't be too expensive
>a good laptop under $400
Ah, but what do you buy with the other $300?
This looks sketch as fuck but the price is right. Is Ebay's money back guarantee worth the hassle if it doesn't show up?
Unless you can get that at an even bigger discount somewhere, it's almost certainly a scam. I think the way it works is that transactions aren't automatically reversed no matter what so they're just looking for the one or two people who won't open and follow through with a dispute.
no returns and no feedback, I wouldn't unless you have a credit card that can stall payment or other such things.
same model is on amazon and newegg for $250, so a higher chance of bullshit happening.
What are the benefits ov a laptop with a USB type C port? Why should I get one with them?
Check out the sellers responses, see his or her success rate, compare the price with other sellers, see what price range they are competing with, if they're all relatively the same price, check the sellers location (if China, know it's gonna take forever, also Europe, etc, if you're in the US), finally, find the lowest price, you may even be able to find it used for less.
My experience with eBays money back guarantee is awesome, I bought a toughbook and got ripped off, apparently the users account got hacked or they couldn't access it somehow(?) I dunno, but I got my money back after reporting it.
oh, and, if you can buy the item in your own country, it's much better.
rather, not ripped off, but it never arrived.
I ordered the AT2020 USB+ and it should arrive tommorrow, but I'm getting second thoughts.
Main use will be VoIP and some dabbling in voiceover work, preferably on a desk stand, capturing will be done through pulseaudio and pulseeffects.
The Rode NT USB is only 10€ more and has a metal pop filter, is quite a bit bigger though, and I don't know how important pop filters actually when you're not actively trying to spit in your mic.
I'd like to be able to quickly set it up and store it away when I don't need it, that's why I'd rather have a relatively compact all-in-one instead of an audio interface and an XLR mic.
Both the AT and the Rode are condenser mics and sound very nice from the reviews I've watched, but some people say dynamic ones that record less background noise might be better suited for that kind of use in front of a keyboard.
Am I on the right track with my choice or should I look into a different solution?
what's something that has functionality of a smartphone but isn't jewish?
An iPod touch or a PDA, maybe Dragonbox Pandora/Pyra
Since the Pandora and the PocketChip are both out of production, and the Pyra is never ever, literally nothing.
Apples & Oranges. Pyra and Pandora are handheld consoles. As far as i know there are no unpozzed smartphones, even the Ubuntu phone was pozzed to the max.
Anything with GMS is botnet per se, which severely limits the usefulness of any non botnet smartphone. Don’t just them without a sim either, they still phone home to the network
The Librem 5 and the Pinephone which are coming out soon™ will have hardware switches for the wireless modem and the Pinephone will have the wireless modem communicate over USB so it can't access the boards main memory (I'm assuming the Librem 5 will do something like that but I can't say for sure).
I'm looking at setting up a cheap low-power NAS for storage/file sharing. I was looking into RAID, but if I use a separate hard drive for cold backups, is it RAID even necessary for redundancy? (I know I could potentially lose some data on the NAS in the event SHTF, but I'm thinking most of my important files would still be on the desktop.)
I'm just trying to figure out what's a good setup to keep files backed up or sharable without over-complicating this or spending more than I really need to.
These things look pretty sweet, mini pc's. They seem to have limited RAM capacity though.
Anybody have good/bad experiences with these?
Looking to replace my current coreboot mobo (which features an old Q9650), what are my options besides KGPE-D16 (which I owned previously) or Raptor Blackbird ? (expensive)
Is there any progress with Sandy / Ivy gen to fully remove Intel ME ? I see there are a couple of mobo compatible with Sandy / Ivy and coreboot.. Asus P8H61-M LX / Pro etc.
I do all my gaming, data-entry job, traditional art, digital art, audio workstationing, and 3D modeling at the same desk on the same computer. Being able to move stuff out of the way easily without creating a mess of wires is essential, so I'm looking at moving to a wireless keyboard and wireless mouse. Do such devices suffer input lag that would make gaming harder, or am I worried about nothing? Are there suggested all-purpose models of keyboards good for both work and play? Is it reasonable to want devices that can be connected via USB to recharge, or would I be signing up for an indefinite future of buying AA batteries every couple of months?
Please help me de-clutter my desk.
Pop filters exist entirely from the era of ribbon microphones on old analogue radio where a stray drop of spittle could irreparably damage a $4000 microphone. They are completely unnecessary unless you've got one such ribbon microphone, and I guarantee you don't if you have to even ask. All you need to filter the 'pop' out is to speak towards your mic but not directly at it; a deviation of about 15 degrees is sufficient. It's not the sound it's filtering, it's the puff of air you make when you make those sounds. Don't hit it with the puff, and the problem disappears.
This is an excellent primer and the uploader has put up a series of sequels that may have pertinent information for you.
Oh, I forgot where the video left off. Some of the info I wanted you to see didn't come until later videos. I'm just gonna post the whole playlist. Watch all 5 videos in order.
Looking for a good headset to replace my old one, which has begun melting at the seams. Any suggestions?
Thanks, after trying it, it really seems to be all about technique.
I sent it back anyway, after researching a bit more a dynamic mic would be more suitable for me.
Lowest I can go without becoming stupidly bulky. Only need web, word processing and maybe emulators for low end systems (GBA, SNES and lower). Ideally one I don't have to deal with OS protection.
>So after about a decade my PSU died. what are some good brands or models in the 500W-600W range these days?
SeaSonic Prime and Focus+
EVGA B2, B3, G2, G3, P2, and T2
If you want to use the PSU for a decade or more, consider an SFX model. You might want a case one day that cant fit an ATX power supply. At least consider getting a 140mm long ATX model.
I made the mistake of buying an NH-D15 and that really limited my case selection.
Are there any eReaders using bistable eInk displays, preferably below $200?
By that, I mean something capable of keeping an image onscreen forever with the device shut off and zero load on the battery. I've been reading about and looking at supposedly production-ready prototypes since the '90s, but I can't actually find mention of anything offered for sale to the general public.
On a related note, what about other vaporware technologies, like flexible or transparent displays?
Cheap e-readers are all Kindle-tier. You can buy flexible display modules, but I think mechanical issues keep them out of commercial products. Transparent OLEDs are real and might be coming, but you can't buy them yet.
What's an excellent display (drawing) tablet I can buy from 600$-800$. Might even push it to a grand, but I hear wacom is overpriced dogshit so I won't.
20-25inches are good.
Tables that can go used for that low are completely fine too, mandatory for wacom. I refuse to support their jewery.
I looked into drive bay readers myself and found most of them are shit or overpriced. I just gave up and went for a USB reader instead.
It's too niche of a product for demand I guess.
I think ME can be removed all the way up to Broadwell. It's Libreboot you can't have after Core 2.
Have 8Gb ram, want 16 Gb because Blender rendering.
See $160 price because toughbook.
Note: item is in used condition.
I was under the general impression the Kindle and its ilk don't use truly bistable displays, or if they do, that they don't automatically sleep or power off aggressively enough between page turns, because I see battery life quotes of merely 10-40 hours of continuous reading.
Could you ask the question again without posting like a faggot?
Does anybody here have experience with ubuntu/mint on 200GE? I know that some Raven Ridge CPUs had some freezes with older kernels/mesa. Is it already stable enough that it won't cause any (additional) issues for tech illiterate people?
I got a keyboard with a removable cable and a logitech g305 for that purpose
Anyone have experience with 5.1 speakers? I was thinking of getting a set but i know nothing about them.
I've seen some /g/ audiophiles claim that anything above 2.1 is dumb and
>u have more than 2 ears lmao?
or something to that effect. They'd probably tell you to get a pair of decent monitors instead, but you can go ask yourself.
What are the best privacy/security practices when buying USB devices? Should I go for a well-known company but risk the botnet or a cheap generic but risk a sweatshop owner downloading my credit card. Only pay in cash like other computer components?
Are there ANY good handheld computing devices in the 150 to 200 dollar range or am I going to end up with a Chinese piece of shit that gets literally hot to the touch just from basic web browsing?
Android Tablet shit
x86-64 Intel Atom device
Hell even an Apple shit
Just any kind of handheld computing device that lets me do basic smartphone shit like browse the internet, watch videos, listen to music and shit and has okay-ish specs that could maybe run modern 3D applications if I wanted to. Ideally with a 64-bit processor and DDR4 memory, with display resolution a priority. I already have a great laptop and desktop. So not in the market for those
>anything above 2.1 is dumb
depends on the application, in most cases it's stupid to setup something like that when it's not in something like a home theater WITH A PROPER ROOM application or something similar
In EAX games like Thief a surround setup or good headphones were essential.
proper surround systems will only ever be available to richfags. you need a big dedicated room for it and also hardware thats worth thousands. most people dont have the space so the placement is horrible and they use some cheap combo package that they got from some supermarket for $100.
maybe if you have at least 600. such hipster hardware isnt cheap.
Is a 8GB system considered a "low memory system" at this point?
Care to provide any details on that mini PC from your pics (name/model, price, where to get it etc.)?
Does anyone hav some affiliate links to get a discount on VPN services?
Can you point out any of the "overpriced" ones? I'd rather pay a little more but get a good internal reader which is reliable and lasts.
Yes, because we don't need optimised systems, we just need MORE STUFF and pathetic mongrel tier coding.
Nah. I have 8 GB in my "general usage and internet browing" system and frankly, I could get away with only 3. Just don't run shit software or a shit OS. More RAM is always fine though, as it will be used as cache automatically by the OS.
I just searched "5.25 sd reader" on Amazon and found these. I didn't want to spend $30 for a front SD reader when I found a USB dual-SD reader for $8 that gets USB 3.0 speeds on both cards simultaneously. If I needed USB ports I might have considered the former.
Does anyone have any experience with Koreader? I want to buy an ereader, I've been looking at Koreader, its fork, Okreader, and Ocherbook, respectively, and they seem somewhat different in compatible models and installation.
The latter-two, as I understand it, basically instruct you to root the device by extracting that tarball and modifying the init a little bit; whereas, the Koreader wiki just instructs me to use their automated installer. What do those installers even do? Do I still need root? What devices 'can' I root? Because I know the n905 (Touch) has a remove-able sd card, but I don't know about anything else having that. I know that the n514 (Aura) has no sd card and a soldered chip that's necessary to flash. Is the process essentially the same? Because I hate the way the n905 looks.
Can someone with experience with this give me a walkthrough on your personal process?
I half-assed this list for you. I'm not very familiar with AutoCAD and don't know your priorities, so I left off the video card for you to decide. (Typically video cards are suited for either CAD or gaming. You can do both, but one won't run as well.)
I figured Ryzen 7 + 32GB RAM wouldn't be too overkill for your case, but you may be able to do Ryzen 5 + 16GB RAM if you want to save money. I'm not sure if you want or need a separate CPU cooler, but you should be fine. I chose 500GB SSD + 2TB HDD, but it's up to you if you just want a single SSD (I'd recommend at least 1TB in that case) or a single HDD.
You can get any case you want that fits the parts. I just picked a nicer case because cheap ones don't usually have good dust filters. The power supply should be good for any video card you pick. (Seasonic is one of the best brands for power supplies. This is the one part I avoid cheaping out on. Low end power supplies are basically space heaters or even chinese fireworks.)
This also leaves you with enough remaining budget to purchase Windows, but I don't recommend that if possible.
2 good speakers + decent software 3D is better than 7 shitty speakers
ram is almost down to 2016 prices, only a matter of time before it goes back up again.
> enough remaining budget to purchase Windows, but I don't recommend that if possible.
grab a cheap key from ebay for a few bucks if you have to, or an old win7 key to upgrade.
apparently there's also a way to upgrade a cracked win7, but never done it myself.
Does anyone knows a tool to see traffic on a given server or website? Just like this one (but open source), pretty fancy
Is it your site? Use a log visualizer.
>never done it myself
I have. You just run the win10 setup.exe and it activates for you during the upgrade. I'm keeping myself on 7 though, at least for the winshit I can't run on Linux.
No, its just a random tool to exemplify what I'm looking for.
Without being too biased because
Is 200 bucks too much for an iPad Air 2? Its an older iPad but whats drawing me to it the high resolution and its still not too old and has a 64-bit processor
What's turning me off is that it has DDR3 RAM instead of newer DDR4 and I could probably get an Android tablet with both but nowhere near the Apple polish. This will be my first Apple device in about 10 years now and after getting a nice PC I just want a nice simple tablet for shitposting in bed and I want a nice experience that wont slow me down. Does the Apple A8X still hold up today? I know it has the latest iOS version available
Mommy gave me $100, what's a good mechanical keyboard in this price range? I do more typing (code) than gaming. I was looking into browns to not annoy the shit out of people with blues, does anyone have another recommendation?
Is there a decent peephole camera (for the front door of a house) that doesn't rely on some (((cloud))) service, and lets me actually control the data? All I see online is overpriced video doorbell trash hooked into retarded botnets like nest.
>inb4 make your own
Eventually I probably will, but no time right now.
Looking to upgrade from my T420s to something that isn't falling apart.
Happy with what I got now, only complaints are the graphics card not supporting openGL past 1.0 and the DisplayPort adapter being a bit loose. Games are low-priority, but I really wanna play Magica 2 on the go.
Cannot compromise on the fact it has to support muh freedoms though. Ideally gonna start fresh on this and avoid any info being directly related to me as a person coming close to it.
Oh, and budget is around £250-300
High customization encouraged.
This is what I want my home office to look like eventually. 1 desk for computer stuff with a small area for books, and a second desk for mostly books and drafting stuff, but with a keyboard and mouse to use for a larger monitor mounted further away (could also double as a home cinema)
Anyone have a similar setup?
This image is about 6 years old now, yet replace /g/ with /tech/ and its still so relevant today
I'm not sure if this question goes here or the other sticky, but:
What does /tech/ recommend for a personal information manager or organizer?
I tried Kontact, which seemed a bit barebones minus the RSS feed and very unstable, and Evolution, which was alright yet doesn't have a version for Windows.
What card should I be shooting for with a 1440p 144Hz monitor? I don't have to run everything at 144 or at the highest settings, but I would like it to last a few years.
So i want to buy a video card for around $150. I have not been in the market for computer parts in a long time. Where are the best places to find deals? is it still newegg?
From my research i've found that something around the RX570 8gb is what im going to end up with. i'm not dead set on an ATI card and have no issues with nvidia but at that price point it seems that ATI has more bang for my buck.
i see rx580 cards at that same price point, but only from MSI, and only the "armor" ones which i hear have cooling problems.
Can anyone give me a quick rundown on what to look for or avoid? suggestions? or places to shop for deals? i dont want a used card since i value a warranty and have had only bad experiences in the past with used hardware.
Why are there so many trannies in the world?
Planning on finally building an actual PC after being a laptop guy for quite some time. Just looking for some criticism or advice on this build before I fully commit to it, don't want to get conned with a crap motherboard or some overrated GPU because some fools on Newegg think it's great for playing Minecraft. Anyone got some recs? Or is this fine as it is? Not trying to have some multicolored-gayman RGB setup just something that can run current games at high settings with high FPS.
go NVMe for the SSD
consider a case with dust filters
consider faster RAM
there are faster and larger HDDs for not much more.
fuck intel, grab an R7 2700X and try out the stock cooler before spending money on the 212 as the wraith coolers are pretty decent for most use.
that'd shave ~$130 off that before considering the different MB needed could go towards ssd/hdd/gpu/ram upgrades
no comment on gpu, dunno whats good lately
extremely loud minority, don't worry they don't last long.
i just built a pc from found/thrown out parts. cost me about $150 so far, and will probably cost me an additional $250 to get it capable of playing new/demanding games maxed out.
what you have is pretty good. anything i'd nitpick would just save you money or be better but cost more. you'd be fine with any of that.
if i was building a brand new PC i would probably go with one of the new ryzen amd processors though since theyre cheaper and better.
for a gpu you'd be better off getting atleast a 1660 TI if you have to get nvidia. an amd RX570 is going to give you about the same performance as that 1060 at about half the price.
did you have any specific concerns? or did you just want people to comment on your build
nvme doesnt really give any benefit, anon.
Why is that Ryzen is better than Intel? All the benchmark sites say that Intel is better. Is it the price per efficiency that makes Ryzen better overall?
My specific concerns is the Motherboard, GPU and CPU, I don't want to spend 250+ because some motherboard says 'GAMING' on it, I want to make sure this build lasts for a while. Bottom line I don't want to get jew'd by the companies and youtube 'tech guys' because of their recommendations. Thanks for the suggestions regardless.
>Bottom line I don't want to get jew'd
don't buy from a jewish (intel) company then. they sponsor tons of those "tech guy" channels and review sites, I wouldn't put it past them to buy out good reviews.
you'd be better off putting your money towards a better gpu before using half the price of the system to go into two items.
>doesnt really give any benefit
even shitty NVMe drives can easily do double the speed of what SATA3 allows.
Trying to get in to drones, not really into photography but I'd like to try drone racing/aerial tricks. Any good entry level drones for that?
Does anyone here use IPTV? I've signed up to a provider but it buffers like hell. Does anyone know any good IPTV providers at the moment?
What is/was the best LCD/LED monitor that has great aesthetics? I prefer something in 4:3 but I'm not adverse to 16:9.
Buy a Ryzen processor now or wait for Zen 2?
Wait 1 week and see what's coming up
This aspect ratio just feels so damn nice in your hands vs 16:9 and 16:0 that I wonder why no Android tablet makers followed Apples lead with that. You’d think Samsung would’ve made a Tablet with this aspect ratio
>double the speed of what SATA3 allows.
dont confuse transfer speeds with read speeds. the benchmarks have marginal differences. the convenience of sata3 and being able to hook it to other devices and do backups outweighs the negligable benefit of nvme by a long shot.
last time i checked saying sata3 is somehow slow makes no sense when even the data will never utilize that bandwidth. its like trying to say that a 5400rpm drive would benefit going from sata1 to sata3 when the read speeds of the drive are like 2mbps.
intel benchmarks better because of features like turboboost that pretty much just help it gain advantages in benchmarks and quick bursts of performance. ryzen hold that performance consistently. the reason people say go with them is because intel did too many diversity hires and failed their new platform of getting any smaller than... 11? ... 14nm? i cant remember the number but its around there... meanwhile AMD succeeded in getting 7nm. this means lower power consumption, lower HEAT (less throttling) and theyre capable of overclocking higher speeds..
if you dont want to get fucked over by marketing, dont. read specs and not stupid buzzwords and gimmicks. "gaming" shit isnt even always expensive, im using a stupid "gaming" keyboard right now because i needed one at the time and it was $5 at a store; cheapest available.
i try to stick with reputable companies and look for companies that have good reputations especially in the company or with warranty/support.
with computers jewing is usually paying for shit you dont need, not that youre not getting what you pay for. the most common jewing strategy is to get someone to buy a $700 graphics card so they can play fortnite. or convincing some grandmother that she needs a 100mbps internet service because "facebook is slow".
sure it'll be a better card or service, but they will never use it and would be fine with something cheaper.
for some context (feel free to judge me accordingly) i generally lean towards the following companies: kingston, asus, antec, cisco, crucial, klipsch, logictech, western digital, corsair, and ralink.
i used to like MSI until i saw video related. who the fuck applies thermal paste like that? i thought it was a prank. the fact that it was on their youtube channel for more than 2 years says enough about the company for me.
>the benchmarks have marginal differences.
>negligable benefit of nvme by a long shot.
Three to four times the sequential read speed is negligible to you?
I want to make a NAS with a few HDD's on eBay. Not sure which raid to use, but I do want some redundancy. I have a desktop with a Pentium, but not sure which generation. What do I need to hook up numerous HDD's to a computer? Should I get one of those PCI-e sata modules? Or one of those hardware raid things? Will this old desktop be sufficient, or do I have to get something better?
>Will this old desktop be sufficient, or do I have to get something better?
Depends on how old the Pentium is. As long as it's just file storage it's probably fine. It might run warmer than a newer PC with a better CPU, but it's probably fine. For reference, with my old core2duo I could transfer files fine and max my gigabit ethernet connection on a local network.
>What do I need to hook up numerous HDD's to a computer?
You can just use the on-board SATA connectors. Get a PCI adapter if you run out of slots.
>Should I get one of those one of those hardware raid things?
You'll typically want one for RAID, but if your mobo supports it natively you can use that. (Yours might not.)
>Not sure which raid to use, but I do want some redundancy.
How many disks do you have? How much redundancy do you want? RAID 10 (1+0) is good if you have an even number of disks, but you lose half your disks for redundancy. RAID 5 only loses 1 disk in the whole array for parity, and 2 disks for RAID 6 giving you more storage at the cost of some write speeds.
> M.2 2280 1TB SSD
> Up to 3480 MBps read
> Up to 3000 MBps write
> 4KB 610,000 IOPS read
> 4KB 570,000 IOPS write
I keep telling my gaymen buddy that this thing sounds "next-gen," but won't make a difference in his games that a regular SSD 540+/- MBps can't. I keep telling him that even in "heavily modded" games like Skyrim SE with a gorillion mods it won't help and that it won't make his Illusion waifus any prettier.
Games aren't made to take advantage of these yet, and won't for a long time. I'm trying to tell him to buy a 2TB "last-gen SSD" (his words). Am I missing something?
My 10yo pc is outdated and gets worse and will probably bite the dust soon so i thought i'd look into options for laptops as the increased mobility would be very helpful and allow me to actually move without packing bags like i'm changing homes. I'm on a very tight budget and probably will be unable to buy more costly pcs in any reasonable time. I thought about building a new proper pc as an alternative but it'll probably be more costly either now or in the long run as any of my current components aren't fit for proper build.
I'm looking for a sturdy and long-lasting pc that is at least somewhat usable/operable and as cheap as possible, i'm not really much into games or photo/video editing, with the most resource intensive tasks being either lightly modded skyrim or endless legend for high end or just a palemoon with >10 tabs with lighter sites (JS off for the most part, along with other things umatrix does) and a videoplayer running some twitch stream with streamlink as the bottom level, that is with either optimized/cleaned win7 or linux. Would a laptop cost more for this purpose and will a pc be less useful when shit parts get outdated, while the laptop would at least be mobile?
What laptop models would you recommend? Not from US so won't find chromebooks here. I've found ASUS X55A is pretty cheap and seemingly fits at least minimal requirements if i install 4gb RAM that i have left from my previous laptop. It also seems to have very good reviews and specs in regard to not overheating and longlivety. It's price is also one of the most tolerable. Are there any issues with that?
The only difference he's likely to notice with NVMe is a couple of seconds of load time. There's nothing to say that future games couldn't take advantage of the increased throughput, but paying more today means betting against cheaper and faster drives 3-4 years from now.
Refurbished Thinkpad T450 my dude.
What does tech recommend as far as USB wireless dongles go? Hopefully something that will last. Preferably something that allows for MAC spoofing and/or is easy flashable to get rid of potential botnet.
ALFA AWUS036NH Network Ralink 3070L Wifi Network Card 2000MW ALFA Wireless WiFi USB Adapter with 5dbi anenna 1Set
any decent radar detectors under 100 usd?
How can I know about all the best VPN deals?
>If you turned off secureboot chances are it will FAIL to boot back to windows
Had 0 issues turning secureboot off on my lenovo laptop.
You fags are just supposed to press F2 when booting, set secureboot to disabled and then safe and exit.
>8 track player
Fucking implying applefag zoomers even know wtf 8-track even is
thats the poorfag version
I would need a device that can take a PWM signal (in that case from a GPU), split it but also have additional power to feed the things I want to send that PWM signal to (those being fans I don't think the GPU fan header can handle)
Does this exist?
>I just want to play videogames
You should get an Xbox tbh
>Do the RPM's have any bearing on anything besides performance?
Heat and noise
I have a number I need to call my estranged father over the internets and am finding no such service. Everything is an app. I need a webservice, preferably no jewscript and works over Tor, that will let me text, or even call, a number. I could use the service provider's text service but I do not know their provider information.
Any suggestions ???
Use a pay phone you muppet.
I can't do that.
I am in need of a AV and VPN, Is bitdefender with premium VPN any good? Because it is cheaper to get Bitdefender with VPN than both apart, heck bitdefender vpn premium is cheaper than only the vpn! And is it tru that 8ch is banning vpn users?
Get the I7 compatible to your current mobo, get a rtx 2080 or TI, get a bigger ssd if you want and more HDDs. It is incredible stupid to buy everything again like you are doing specially because your rig is still "new"
Does anyone know a good resource for individual video card reviews?
im considering purchasing https://www.newegg.com/evga-geforce-gtx-1660-06g-p4-1067-kr/p/N82E16814487448?Item=N82E16814487448 for $200 after promo/rebate but it has 0 reviews on any site, and outside of evga's webpage, i cant even find any information on it (except sale pages). i was debating between this card and a rx590 and i think im reading to pull the plug on this one, but i usually dont buy a card unless i get some kind of in depth review that goes over things like thermal/build/cooling quality.
>Does anyone know a good resource for individual video card reviews?
Not really, usually not all the stuff is reviewed especially lower end.
You really just need a feature list, spec sheet and look at the cooler (maybe a PCB picture for VRMs) to get a good idea of how the GPU will perform, and since brands reuse a lot of stuff you can usually get an idea from looking at different model reviews or even card from another brand from the same company (gainward / palit / galax for example reuse shit from each other often)
I'd just go with the 1660, 590 are not a good idea, I'd go with the XC ultra though, long card with slim heatsink is in my mind better than the SC with a short design but thicker heatsink,although considering the chip either cooling solution should be complete overkill.
>considering the chip either cooling solution should be complete overkill.
i take it these chips dont run very hot? thats reassuring. i hate noise.
>I'd go with the XC ultra though
i considered it because its only $20 more, but i have a length limitation because of the case/mobo im using (long story). right now the card i fit in (barely) is a HD5850 with the bottom corner dremmeled off to help it fit.
also, if you look at pic related, the longer/thinner heatsink isnt even directly connected to any of the hardware.
is that really the case though? evga lists both cards as having "dual slot" thickness, which i assumed is just as thick as the HD5850
>i take it these chips don't run very hot?
They really don't, ever since Maxwell Nvidia cards below the xx80 ranges are fairly tame.
>also, if you look at pic related
It can sink more heat and has a larger contact surface
The shape could slightly help airflow too
Difference is likely small and not worth the hassle if your case can't accommodate it easily especially considering it's still a 2slot dual fan cooler on a 120w card
>is that really the case though?
Yeah not by much, in the picture you can see the SC cooler peeking over the brackets on the connector picture whereas you don't on the XC
the 590 didnt perform as well (by a tiny margin) on almost every single test in the link you sent, but is considerably more expensive. explain your reasoning for getting a 590.
i guess the heatpipes would make the difference and help even though about 2.5" of that heatsink doesnt even come in contact with the card.
my case/mobo 100% cant accomodate the full sized card. my only concern is that evga put their fancy "hfb" fans on the longer cards, but not on the SC. im autistic about noise, but im also going deaf.
>you can see the SC cooler peeking over the brackets
i had to take a second look at pic related, but yea... its ever so slightly thicker.
>my only concern is that evga put their fancy "hfb" fans on the longer cards, but not on the SC
Fans look to be the same and the presentation stuff at the bottom also says the SC has them, should be fine
>explain your reasoning for getting a 590.
There's pretty much no reasoning for getting one of those outside of an insane deal (sub 200) on a Sapphire Nitro+ (all other models are shit)
And even then you still have a behemoth that chugs 230w (or about 180w if you get a good undervolt) and can barely compete with a 1660 in most games when that 1660 uses maybe 150w at most at stock
The Nitro + isn't particularly noisy or very hot though especially with an undervolt but the others range from bad to worse
>SC has them
i initially thought that. they just look the same.
on a comparison chart they the one i (just bought) as having "dual fans" where the other specified hdb.
it probably is fine, because their normal fans are probably fine. they just say those are 15% quieter, and last longer or whatever.
not a big deal, just something odd i saw.
cant wait to get this card so i can play emulated PS2 games at higher resolutions. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
>explain your reasoning for getting a 590
As you said, they're within 10% of each other.
If you want to get a brain anytime soon and switch to Linux, AMD has completely free drivers mainlined in the kernel.
AMD doesn't have a history of fucking over their customers.
AMD cards are very unlocked, meaning you can control them much more finely when overclocking. You can even set the OC in the VBIOS and forget about OS disutilities.
Traditionally stronger at GPGPU tasks, see Vulkan applications with Asynchronous Compute for an example.
Competitive at every price level they're in.
FreeSync monitors are cheaper than Gsync ones because they don't need ASICs to accomplish their goal.
>>If you want to get a brain anytime soon and switch to Linux
>buying a gaming video card?
you think youre smarter than you actually are, anon.
so your reasons for paying $50 more for a marginally weaker card is because amd is good with linux, amd happy family company, amd cards good overclock, theyre better at photoshop got benchmarks comparing their gpgpu abilities? traditionally stronger means nothing, competetive pricing (not in this instance it isnt. $50 more isnt a deal) and that freesync monitors are cheaper than gsync ones? 2 problems with that, it may be cheaper, but its also not as good. freesync is barely worth using as it is, but on top of that they dont make any cards that utilize it well at higher resolutions.
did i get that right?
So I was thinking of upgrading my PC in parts so I don't have to wait months on end to get something new. From what I can tell with newer hardware, it can be run with W7, though it's often a bit of a pain to get to work. I'll probably have to just bite the bullet and get W10.
So far, what I'm thinking for each "batch" is:
Storage and OS
The reason for doing it this way is I should get the biggest increase in performance first and all.
What I'm wondering about is with Windows. Will there be any problems keeping my W7 install on the old drive with a new Mobo and CPU? I'll upgrade eventually, but I'd rather not have to do a clean install twice, so I'd prefer if I could just do that in the end. Any pointers?
I know you're a nigger but I'm going to reply for the sake of the audience.
>you think youre smarter
Wine is making great progress since Valve got on board, and then there's Proton. Performance is great across the board, in some cases exceeding the framerates pushed in Winpoo. I'm not going to list all the benefits of running any Linux distribution instead of Winpoo because I'd run out of characters here.
They're tied where I am.
Try out Kubuntu first.
If I wanted to use Linux, I'd use Debian as I do on my non-gaming ware in general. Linux is not compatible with all the software I want to use, and I want to get the most out of any hardware I have. That's a non-answer.
Had you said Devuan you'd have had a point, but I don't see any reason to stick to straight Debian.
Sounds appealing, I might check it out on my other machines. Still, it doesn't answer my original question about potential issues with keeping my old W7 install on a new mobo and CPU.
yes "youre" short for "you are". as in: you think you are smarter than you actually are. and now i just think youre alot dumber than i initially thought you were.
>Wine is making great progress since Valve got on board
so what does that mean? that i can install steam and play a minimal amount of games? wow, thank you for showing me the way. cant wait to maximize my framerates while playing overwatch on linux. cant wait for the next steam sale! :D
>They're tied where I am.
i dont really care what the video card market is like in nigeria.
Thinking of buying a Libretto U100 for €110, good idea?
i believe they come in a few configurations, what are the specs of the one you're looking at?
Didn't do it, ended up buying a Dell C/Dock II instead.
I might get the GPD MicroPC when it becomes cheaper some day.
I might build my first PC soon, but I need some recommendations, I'm really thigh on the budget, this what I'm thinking to buy so far:
>ASRock - B450M
Not sure if I should go for the 2400G or a 2600, the price difference is really a big deal, even for the 2400G and I don't know if the performance difference it's worth.
Found them about the same price range, so I might buy the 590. (It's actually the cheaper one, it's the Sapphire one, are they good?).
I only use Linux, people say AMD is better than Nvidia in Linux is this true? I'm open to Nvidia cards recommendations tho.
>8 GB RAM DDR4 3000
I think at the moment I will go with just 8gb or RAM and will upgrade it later, any brand I really don't care.
Seems good enough, I'm not sure about how much voltage will this pc use but I don't it will be more than 400W though
dunno yet what brand or model.
Are they good? They seem decent and somewhat cheap
I kinda want to fell for the memechanical keayboard meme, If I have some money left over I might buy one of these.
I need some monitors recommendations, 1920x1080 is fine for my, I've used 1280x800 and 1366x768 all my life so 1080p will be a great upgrade, I need something good, but not so expensive. Something else I need?
for processors, go with the lower price point, not worth the money for a minimal spec increase.
i was looking at the 590 but went with the 1660 because they were cheaper for me ($200) while 590s were floating around $250.
sapphire is the premier brand for AMD/ATI. i would compare them to evga with nvidia. asus and gigabyte are also good bets.
i dont see a reason to skimp out on memory. its one of the most important things and 8 gigs isnt really enough, your pc would have as much ram as your 590. for ram i always go with kingston, but crucial is also a good company. i would get atleast 16 and go for 32 if you want to eventually. its better to buy ram together so you get the same exact models.
and a 590? you might want to try a voltage calculator. ideally you would want a computer that at peak would only eat up 70% of a power supplys capacity.
western digital is a good brand right now. for maximum stability and reliability go with gold; theyre data center hard drives. if youre not too concerned the blue/black are just fine. SSDs i like the MX500 from crucial. there was a sale on google express a few days ago for a 500gb for $50 and thats a premier brand up there with samsung. WD is also a good one.
>i dont see a reason to skimp out on memory.
moneis, but will keep that in mind, I might need to save a bit more.
>and a 590? you might want to try a voltage calculator. ideally you would want a computer that at peak would only eat up 70% of a power supplys capacity.
ah I see, perhaps a 500W will do the job.
Are you planning on using integrated graphics?
If you're buying a 570 / 580 to game on there's no real reason to get a 2200G over a 1600 when it's the same price.
See this combo deal: https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails?ItemList=Combo.3914805
But if you are going to game on integrated graphics, make sure to use dual-channel ram.
As far as buying GPU goes, the $100 used 580 8GB is probably the value king.
I prefer buying only what you need now, and adding more storage later when you need it.
>>ASRock - B450M
The 2600 is well worth it if you do a lot of multithreaded tasks but you could already find a deal where you get a 1600 or even 1700 for very cheap and those would be significant upgrades
One other thing to consider is that maybe you'll need more power down the line so it's maybe a good idea to get a slightly better mobo (mostly VRMs would be a bit on the low side on that mobo, although I'm pretty sure it would handle stock fine with some extra cooling) just so maybe when the prices are good you can just drop in that R9 3900X in it for example
If the 590 is cheap enough to barely be pricier than the 570 (so I'd assume 170 bucks or something?) go for it I'm also gonna assume it's the Sapphire Nitro+ which is the best (really only good model) of 590
I'd upgrade the PSU though
>>8 GB RAM DDR4 3000
Seems good, but if you can find a 3200 kit for the same price or not much more (5 bucks or something) consider it, it's that much more chances to not get shit memory modules that can't clock well with Ryzen
Nope, 500/550 and avoid the cheap ones like the Corsair builder and FSP hexa and the like, Seasonic S12 seems good
590 = 230w peak unless you UV them
2200G = 45-90w depending if PBO etc is on
mobo = 20-40w
2w more per stick of ram or SSD
4-10w per HDD
It fits, just barely, and you never ever want that no matter how much you think it won't be an issue it will come back to bite you (had to change PSU because after 4 years my 750w couldn't handle 600w loads), the efficiency peak is betwen 25-70% load I'd go for something that fits within that range the lower the better long term there's really no downside outside of the price since hte efficiency penalty really only kicks in hard at 10-15% load
Don't get too caught up in the 80plus shit, it's barely an indicator of anything nowadays, although it not being present at all is a bad sign.
Never ever cheap out on the PSU
Case really is up to your taste but try getting info on the fans it has if it has any, don't want some shitty one that is noisier than the rest of the build and make sure the 590 fits because that thing is big
HDD just avoid seagate unless you're going for the enterprise / AV surveillance models those are surprisingly good, I'd go Toshiba but that's just me
SSD Crucial MX500, the BX is QLC which I wouldn't trust quite yet and not much cheaper, no other brand has given me a reason to give a shit about them
It's okay, if you're confortable with it don't change there's no real point
If you want the cheapest gayming mice look for the CoolerMaster MM520 or Nixeus Revel
>I kinda want to fell for the memechanical keayboard meme
CK550 or whatever chinkshit one with gateron red you can find on eBay / Aliexpress it's gonna be mostly as good
>I need some monitors recommendations
I have one of the cheap Quantum Dot Samsung curved meme gaming monitor, they're cheap and okay wouldn't particularly recommend because like many cheap LCD it has a lot of backlight issues but you're not finding anything better in the 144hz non TN with VRR category.
>Something else I need?
Should be good unless you have something more specific in mind
My ancient toaster of a laptop exploded and I could get a I7 Acer Aspire V 17 Nitro for 350€.
It seems to have the specs od want and good overall reviews, but it has an Intel Core i7-4710HQ and due to the whole Intel security leak and performance downgrade, is it best to stay away intel laptop atm?
Pretty sure the cheapest Ryzen laptop would cost you around 600 bucks and might be a tiny bit faster on the CPU side and a lot better on hte iGPU side
It's really up to you whether you think running without mitigation or taking the performance hit is worth the not spending extra..
Thank you for your reply.
I'll have to do some more research on the matter.
What's a cheap but good microphone? I'm willing to spend about 20-30 yurobux on it and I want the best quality for my money.
Desktop mic using 3.5mm jack is preferable, but not necessary.
>Are you planning on using integrated graphics?
Ah you're right, I might do a GPU passtrough but that's unlikely, I think I will change it for a 1600/1700.
thanks, will keep that in mind.
I'd like to take opinions on whether ebook readers are a good investment. I'm thinking of keeping my older phone and buying a kobo glo instead of soley buying a new phone. I have never been a fan of reading on a phone, and I really liked the kindle paperwhites, but those are amazon, so I'm exploring other options.
Pocketbook has a few models that have a microsd card slot.
Get one of those cheap lavalier mics or a used USB mic. 3.5mm is not worth spending money on.
Why not, fair dubsman?
>Watches AMD computex keynote after months of waiting
>mfw $200 4.8 GHz 8 core not true
>Look at X570 motherboard coverage
>mfw lineup STARTS at $200
>mfw chipset fans that will fail in three years because gamer shit > real heatsinks
Any reason not to just go to Microcenter and pick up the $80 Ryzen 1600 + $50 ASRock B450 combo deal right now? All I use it for is 60hz gaming and I figure the Ryzen 1600 ought to be more than enough not to bottleneck me like my 3570k is right now. Plus I figure there's still an upgrade path to a Ryzen 4000 series chip once the 1600 starts to hold me back.
>Any reason not to just go to Microcenter and pick up the $80 Ryzen 1600 + $50 ASRock B450 combo deal right now?
That sounds like a good deal so I failed to find any objections
My only real doubt is that after Ryzen 3000 drops on July 7th the prices will go down further and the Ryzen 2600 will be the $80 chip instead.
That and some confusion surrounding the number of SATA ports: apparently B450 has just two native SATA ports and the rest are PCIe linked? Does that mean if I plug my two SATA SSDs into the native ports and my bluray and hard drive into the auxiliary ports, I'll lose my ability to use an NVMe drive, or vice versa?
if it means anything I'm still pretty happy with my r7 1700 build. got it a few months after release. may want to see if there's any deals on the 2nd gen chips too.
it may have an effect along those lines. my board, GA-AB350-gaming 3, has six SATA ports, two of which will be disabled when an NVMe drive is installed as they use that lane.
I learned this the hard way, as I had five SATA drives at the time. I did have a warning of sorts, those two ports are a different color.
I'd just read through the manual of any board you're considering beforehand as they should have something like pic related in the manual (this is a cap from my boards manual.)
The 1st gen Ryzen 1600 I'm leaning towards is $80, the 2nd gen 2600 is $140. The 2600 comes with a game code which can be resold for ~$25 though which makes it a bit better.
Do you think prices will drop after Ryzen 3000 comes out and therefore I should wait? That's really the only thing holding me back at this point.
Need some help with me build - I'm aiming for an SFF form factor so that backpacking and plane travel is less painful. Current build
I'm aiming for >https://pcpartpicker.com/list/xnQN8Y
Asrock mobos have an annoying habit of fucking up, is all. Currently using the B350M and it's got that weird issue where it freezes after some time and doesn't unfreeze until a power cycle. Also inferior build quality in comparison to the alternatives. Processor wise, the 1600 should tide you over the next few years comfortably given your particular needs.
Make sure you put the most research into the case for an ITX build, especially since you've got a hot running Vega 56 inside it. Don't have any experience with them myself but just a warning, my brother managed to actually fry his GPU by using a case with no vent holes (Raijintek Metis I think).
As for motherboards, from what I've concluded: Gigabyte is junk, Asus has best BIOS / support but super overpriced, MSI has best VRMs / OC potential but no updates for Ryzen 3000. The ASrock board you picked is probably already the best for you, you won't have the thermal room for OC and it has good software support.
Can you elaborate on your B350M problems? What makes the build quality inferior? On paper, at least, ASRock's B450 Pro4 looks like the best choice for me: good track record of BIOS updates and real VRM heatsinks. You have to double the price of the budget boards to get any improvement in VRM quality, everything in between is RGB gamer shit.
>Any reason not to just go to Microcenter and pick up the $80 Ryzen 1600 + $50 ASRock B450 combo deal right now?
The Asrock mobos below the Taichi are not that good when compared to other similarly priced mobo (although with the discount that's probably nbot relevant) and their BIOS is pretty jank (not relevant if you're not spending time fiddling in it often though)
Unless it causes a major issue we're not aware of yet you can just get a 4xx mobo and put a 3000 in it which going by the benches you can find make it a very interesting choice if you decide to put a 3600 in it provided it's actually available at the disclosed prices (the 2600 is barely an upgrade over a 1600 whereas a 3600 should straight up be able to beat the 2700 in every way @ stock)
There's no guarantee support for the 4000 series will be good on 4XX mobo and if the DDR5 stuff is true that might mean either new socket or memory controller that has to support both, neither of those is good news (usually support for the old RAM gets really damn shit in those cases as seen on the Phenom II and Skylake platform granted the latter is unnoficial)
It's like you hate yourself
Unless you intend to replace the stock cooler with a waterblock or running that Vega with a sub 200w power usage target.
Shit was 50 bucks. A waterblock is somewhere round 160 and AIO inside that particular case needs juryrigging with a hacksaw, even with one of them smaller cards. Also note the 600W PSU - I've no intention of going easy in this thing.
It's got the holes, but yeah, I'm already worrying about the temps, especially since the 2600x auto OCs - to 4.2 GHz in my current setup. First B350M board I had to replace cause it was busted (and had a fair song and dance about it too) and this one's got a sort of well-known issue of the mobo becoming completely unresponsive after a certain period of time. For a while I was sure it was a problem with the Vega 56' drivers, but it's certainly the mobo which essentially goes into a weird standby mode (no video output, no detecting peripherals etc) until it's been turned off and on. Shit plagued me for a week, until suddenly it's no longer happening. The micro ATX boards generally got the shaft this way, and so did the ATX boards to a lesser extent.
As for the 'inferior' comment, it was something a computer engineer acquaintance of mine said when we were out shopping for the mobo. He liked the build quality of the ASUS B350M best, and MSI was okay as well, but this was back when all the boards except the Asrock one had the older BIOS that didn't work with the 2600x, and since 2nd gen Ryzen hadn't hit them by then, they couldn't update the BIOS either.
>Shit was 50 bucks. A waterblock is somewhere round 160 and AIO inside that particular case needs juryrigging with a hacksaw, even with one of them smaller cards. Also note the 600W PSU - I've no intention of going easy in this thing
I mean you do you but that's a bad idea.
I should know since I'm having a ton of trouble getting a blower 1080ti to even behave reasonably at stock without making my ears bleed and that's in a well ventilated E-ATX case.
I got open-back headphones and noisy ceiling fans, running silent is low on my list of concerns.So far the Vega 56 sticks to 35-65 C in my mATX case even under high load, and all I had to do when I moved to a warmer environment was to put in a custom fan curve, and still it's not as noisy as you describe.
Guess it must be a 1080ti thing then
I run that curve after being repasted with some kryonaut and it idles at 35-40°C in 20°C ambient, full load goes right to 75-80°C which is not that great sound wise.
Note, I flashed the Vega 64's BIOS into the 56, and undervolted it, so mileage may vary. But yeah, still not as bad as yours, given room temp here is 33 C right now.
First gen Ryzen is trash garbage crap on Linux. Literally baked in hardware flaws that cause random crashing and freezes. I've even had this cunt CPU freeze on the UEFI BIOS menu.
if you can wait there may be sales/price drops for the 2600. check the price history of the 1600 when the 2600 came out and make a call.
>and it's got that weird issue where it freezes after some time and doesn't unfreeze until a power cycle. sometimes it'll be stable for months then freeze up a few times a week.
glad I'm not the only one that has that. I'm on a gigabyte board with the 350 chipset though.
The rubber domes on one of my favorite keyboards are dying and I think I'm finally ready to take the plunge on a mechanical keyboard. Anyone with experience using a Sidewinder X4 know of a similar mechanical? Two things about the X4 that were important to me:
-absolutely zero key input masking/ghosting - very important for playing complex fighting games on keyboard
-key profile was kind of a compromise between full-size traditional keys and laptop keyboards - allowed for fast key mashing with low travel time; great for playing arcade games with lots of mashing
If you're going to be mashing a lot on a mechanical keyboard you're going to want linear switches, also known as "red type". There is no tactile bump on linear switches, the actuation point is invisible. There are different switch brands these days that have different actuation points (lower or high) that you may want to look into.
As for the zero input masking, I don't think any high end keyboards do that anymore. If you're worried just look for "N-key rollover" and you should be fine.
You most likely want low profile cherry reds (although regular cherry red or gateron red if you're cheap should both work), black will kill your fingers with mashing and tactile will behave weirdly an also cause strain when mashing.
Modern mech KB all have 6KRO (aka it will handle input from 6 keys at once) or better, none have no input masking at all (although you'd be hard pressed to actually hit enough keys at once for it to become an issue, had to use my whole forearm pressing on the KBto actually start seeing dropped input from the KB itself you'll still have to contend with shitty input handling from some games)
It's my understanding that reds have no tactile feedback. I don't understand why anyone playing games would actually want that, having a good feel for what is and isn't a complete input feels like an essential characteristic to me for intuitively understanding your current key-mashing rate.
>As for the zero input masking, I don't think any high end keyboards do that anymore.
And what a load of fucking bullshit that is if true.
>Modern mech KB all have 6KRO (aka it will handle input from 6 keys at once) or better, none have no input masking at all (although you'd be hard pressed to actually hit enough keys at once for it to become an issue, had to use my whole forearm pressing on the KBto actually start seeing dropped input from the KB itself you'll still have to contend with shitty input handling from some games)
Seriously, I can quite literally press about 25 keys at once on my Sidewinder X4 before key input masking ever rears its dead. You're telling me that this membrane keyboard that was around $60 when I got it can outdo ludicrously expensive mechanical keyboards in this department? 6 inputs is really pushing the limit when playing fighting games with tons of inputs like Guilty Gear. I can think of many scenarios where I press 5 or 6 keys at once all the time.
I think 3570k is still okay for everyday casual use as long as you switch over to linux where the mitigations don't hit that hard or stop falling for the gaymer jewish trick that forces you to buy the next high end just to run a 4-hour completion A-games.
The best reason for an upgrade would be if the upgrade yields you anything at all like something that gives viable source of income (inb4 gaymer shit) but if it doesn't just stay and hold your horses. Wait until we reach to the point where VR is real fucking deal.
press both shift keys and type
the quick brown fox jumps over the lazy dog
>It's my understanding that reds have no tactile feedback. I don't understand why anyone playing games would actually want that
The tactile feedback is a bump, it's okay if you not making repeated presses on single keys, if you're mashing fast enough you can actually catch the key early and have an inconsistent feel with said bump, unless you consciously make it so that you fully depress the key each time, with a red keyboard one thing you can do is never depress entirely and never bottom out while you mashing which makes mashing faster with the right technique and with a consistent feel throughout.
>Seriously, I can quite literally press about 25 keys at once on my Sidewinder X4 before key input masking ever rears its dead.
Well here's pic related 1, on a CK550, notice how the J and F6 says they're not pressed even though they are?
Pic related 2 is a Roccat Vulcan, which uses low profile tactile switches (probably the only I can think of that does that) and it gets spotty once you hit 28-30 keys as you can see by the clump of keys not lighting up in the middle.
In case you're curious that's the management program for the EDGE-201 KB, comes with a very nice testing software for that as you can see anjd it doesn't care which keyboard you're using for that function.
That's why I'm saying input masking is a thing in all modern mech keyboards (older PS2 ones might not have the issue) just not at levels you'll ever actually hit normally.in most cases.
I did have an older roccat keyboard that had NKRO but in actuality it became supper spotty once you hit 10 or so keys and had the EDGE-201 obviously that was 6KRO even when in NKRO mode, so you might get true NKRO or at least something close enough to it but you also might get the shaft even f it says NKRO.
Best slim (9.5mm) laptop ODD for dealing with blu-ray?? Optionally also raw ripping Playstation 3/4 games.
Seems to me I can only find verified info on LG BU20N and BU40N, and that one of the things making drives capable of such is a specific Mediatek chipset in them.
But I can't find a handy dandy list of all drives with that chipset.
And the reason for the 9.5mm "laptop" drive requirement is that I already have a 5.25" to that and hdd docking station thingy.
Not that fag, but realtalk:
Had a Intel q9550 which with some overclocking was still just cutting it, but the four ddr2 ram slots (8gig) weren't.
So I picked up a used but never overclocked 3570k (because I knew the seller was too technologically impaired for that) plus mobo and bought 32gig of ddr3 when it was dirt cheap new.
Only thing bugging me is the bios or microcode having occasional quirks with virtualization, but otherwise a fine investment.
If the answer is still "nothing," what's the least Jewish phone on the market right now?
Buying something used in good condition that you can root, has Jew limited OS forks available and isn't a pain in the ass to upgrade storage or replace battery.
for a new PSU, how much effect does the platinum/gold/etc have? from what I remember peak efficiency is somewhere between 30-70%, does a higher one just up that range? if not would it make more sense to calculate the PSU you need to have max system load in the peak range?
When getting a PSU the two considerations are price and how many watts you’re gonna need
The more watts the better. A 900 watt PSU won’t be using those 900 watts unless your system draws that many. However, this means that for a 500 watt draw that 900 watt PSU is going to run much cooler then a PSU rated for 750 watts. Hence why big consideration is really price and if the extra cost is worth it
With the efficiency ratings, don't think that it's just a knob they adjust at the factory, "Make this one more efficient" - it's a complicated series of upgrades to higher-quality and more sophisticated versions of many components that lead to those efficiency gains. Seasonic makes gentlemanly powersupplys, and they give their higher-end ones 10 year warranties. 10 year warranties. A Platinum Rosewill probably has some bullshit 30 day replace-only policy by comparison, but the real question is - what kind of stability do you want for your system? If you're building with Ryzen (stupid not to, at this juncture) and you're going to enable PBO (stupid not to, at this juncture) then you're going to want very stable voltage. Wattage alone is not sufficient if you're building a system that you want to last as long as possible.
>for a new PSU, how much effect does the platinum/gold/etc have? from what I remember peak efficiency is somewhere between 30-70%
80-96%. See: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_plus#Efficiency_level_certifications
>The more watts the better.
Not necessarily. A well made 500W PSU can run better than a shit tier 900W one because the shit one might cause instabilities even at very low loads (sub 100W) due to its poor layout or components causing voltage droop and/or ripple. It's not just about power, but the quality of its delivery too.
>for a 500 watt draw that 900 watt PSU is going to run much cooler then a PSU rated for 750 watts
Depends on the layout and cooling. Many high tier yet relatively modest in terms of power rating PSUs have the platform similar to their more powerful counterparts, and the difference is in caps and coils being smaller. Consequently, those PSUs will run comparably cool up to the limit, which for them isn't based on thermals. Consider that nowadays you can buy a 700W ATX PSU that is passively cooled and yet doesn't overheat under normal conditions.
> from what I remember peak efficiency is somewhere between 30-70%
That's the range of load where peak efficiency usually happens, not the actual efficiency figure, better PSU have an higher range of acceptable efficiency levels (mine is over 85% efficient from 15 to 110% load)
>if not would it make more sense to calculate the PSU you need to have max system load in the peak range?
You're practically never in that range unless you have furmark and OCCT running at the same time
My own build is usually pulling 140-160w at the plug (according to my UPS) and I've never seen it go over 350w in regular gaming loads, the couple time I tried pushing it I got 430-450w at the plug (OC'ed 4770k / 1080ti / 4 DIMMs / 8 HDD / 1 SSD / a handful of high power fans)
The really bad efficiency range starts under 10% so plan accordingly to that first because you're gonna be idle a lot more than you're gonna be maxed out
Not to mention that high-end and more efficient components means it can be packaged more tightly.
Take Corsair's SF750 for example, its form factor is based on the one used for micro-atx back in the days, and yet it's a 750W brick.
Supposedly made by the Chinesium OEM Great Wall (yeah, weird name)
I know of Great Wall, and they make adequate products, but if you want something that's great, go Seasonic. I'm sure there are others out there, but Seasonic is absolutely one of the best.
What do I look for in a Wi-Fi card if I need it to penetrate multiple walls?
It comes down to the card and the antennas in conjunction. Some antennas stronger than others. You can also create a wifi bridge with devices that behave like nodes around your home or location.
FSP used to be my bet, but AFAIK they stopped their own production.
Ironic since they were a tad bit better than seasonic
If it's concrete or similarly dense & rebar'd material, then the only option is drill baby drill and good ol'. CAT cable.
What mobile non-botnet phone to buy?
It has to be durable and run Signal.
Price under $50 (but less = better).
>What mobile non-botnet phone to buy?
Check out these
The last one would probably be the cheapest, but it still uses non-free software to boot, thanks to raspberry pi.
>Price under $50 (but less = better).
That's a problem. Search for a second-hand Replicant compatible device, but anyway it's free as in freedom in this case, not free as in beer. Everything different than that is botnet. Cheap means botnet that will stop working quickly.
What's the most powerful air duster on the market? Asking for a friend of course...
Get a pancake compressor and dust blower accessory. All guys should have a compressor.
Water trap is almost mandatory
I decided to buy a Replicant-compatible phone.
Now I need to pick one of this:
- Galaxy S3
- Galaxy S2
- Galaxy Nexus
- Galaxy Note 2
Which one would you choose? These phones has similar prices, so it doesn't really matter.
There's a list of recommendations here
<Second choices include the Galaxy S 2 (I9100), the Galaxy S 3 (I9300), the Galaxy Note 2 (N7100) and the Galaxy Nexus (I9250), in order of supported hardware features in Replicant (more to less). These devices are fairly common and easy to find. They do not run free bootloaders, but were not proven to have bad modem isolation and perform well with Replicant.
The first recommendation is probably a total brick https://redmine.replicant.us/projects/replicant/wiki/GTA04 , don't pick this one.
Tehnoethical offers these phones with Replicant preinstalled, but you could also buy a device with Android and install Replicant yourself, but it requires you to have some knowledge. Guess you first need to root the device, then boot system image from your computer.
I require a modern laptop for electrical engineering. I went through two (2) XPS 13s in undergraduate studies. I’m now starting a Ph.D. Are modern ThinkPads the best laptops? Or are they now a zombie brand living off of the legacy from the mid to late 2000s? Any advice would be appreciated. Also I’m not concerned about privacy because it will be my school laptop—I have a hardened Gentoo desktop for personal, non-school use.
Which ARM SBC has usable graphics drivers and can be run with an unmodified mainline kernel without pulling a bunch of shady patches from random githubs that haven't been updated in 2 years? Bonus points if it doesn't poz my neghole with spectre-like exploits.
None because ARM has no platform standards, Uboot is barely functional
y'know, I suggested antennas, and they work alright in certain cases, but multiple walls, you're definitely better off taking this anons advice.
Alternatively, you can do cable runs along the ground if that's not an option. You can probably even pet/child proof it.
thx guys, gonna stick with a gold then. was considering a platinum but not really necessary for my use case then.
>Seasonic is absolutely one of the best.
it is, but comes with appropriate pricetag.
prolly gonna get an enermax, solid enough for my mid-tier build according to the reviews.
if you stick with wireless, get one with a good supported chip and preferably external antenna. ended up with intel because most chinkshit is a pain in the ass to find drivers for (even if you know exactly the chip) and can be a pain in the ass to get working under linux.
got this one and was a smooth ride ever since
I'm fed up with headphone pads that flake and need to be replaced every few months, I tried velour, but hate it's lack of noise isolation. Is the Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro the solution to all my problems? Anyone own a pair that can comment on the maintenance & build quality on these headphones?
If you don't particularly give a fuck about sound signature, which you will heavily alter with aftermarket pads, you have a couple options for high quality pads
You want the round pads (not XL) for the 770, don't do hybrid, kills subbass and adds way too much impact and the rest of the range become veiled/muddy (aka niggerbass), pleather is more or less the same except not as bad and less comfortable, haven't tested velour but would really recommend sheepskin over the others
The comfort levels are insane, Ori pads are the ones that fit on the 770, can't say much about the differences I've only tested the suede pads and they were really good
The guy literally started his business because of the same issue as yours while indirectly naming the DT770 among a few others, so I'd guess they're good for that, but I've never tried.
>trying to fit some other high end pads on it
Hit or miss, especially the "fitting them on your cups" part, shure 1540 pads should work and they're really nice, but I can't say how they sound because I've never tried them on a 770, sounds nice on my pair of Fidelio X2 though.
Alpha Pads are another name I've seen thrown around as a good replacement for the stock ones.
Please, recommend me a good dumbphone to use in the current year and age. Its system must not have any kind of app-store or be app-oriented, and its battery must last days. Also, I want it to be hackable, points if it can be easily hacked. I do not mind to use a really old one or to buy a used one.
I used to use public phones/pay phones, but nowadays they do not install new ones in new areas of the city nor fix/replace the broken old ones. The only ones still usable are the ones in airports and bus stations. Also, since everyone now has a smartphone, most kiosks do not sell telephone cards anymore. My only option is to adopt a dumbphone.
PS: Is there any way I can set a phone to only receive signal from cell towers (for I can receive calls) but to not send (except, of course, while I'm in a call)?
>(for I can receive calls)
of course not, you need to be pinging a tower so the carrier knows your phone is available for receiving a call. otherwise it'll just send a "busy" signal to the caller.
this thing is great. nice thick cable, sturdy jack and good stress relievers on the cord. very well built and durable, I expect mine to last for many years. if anything I may need to replace the pads since I got it used, and maybe I'd have to solder in a new cable someday if needed.
sound is great but I don't really have anything to compare it to anyway. pretty good isolation and strong bass. I would recommend them. I paid $90 on ebay.
I had a similar question. Was wondering what 3G flip phones anons might recommend. I know 3G may be phased out in 2-3 years but I don't really care. I'm considering a Motorola Razy v3xx. I had a v3 before and it's a nice phone, I'm sure the v3xx will be great as well and it should work on a prepaid GSM carrier. But I'm wondering what better options may exist?
>Please, recommend me a good dumbphone to use in the current year and age. Its system must not have any kind of app-store or be app-oriented,
this basically does not exist at this point. Closest you might get, from what I've seen, is one of those kyocera rugged phones. they have a proprietary OS and no android crap which is a plus.
>Also, I want it to be hackable, points if it can be easily hacked.
why do you want to "hack" your phone? what will that even do? it makes calls and texts, not sure how you want to hack it...
>I do not mind to use a really old one or to buy a used one.
old 3G phones won't work in a few years, if that is okay then like I said you might consider a Motorola razr, it's pretty nice. Basically any 3g phone you find on ebay could possibly work. I only know about the US though. For example AT&T uses 850MHz and 2100MHz for it's 3G signals IIRC, so not all 3G capable phones you might find will work on ATT, for example. In my case I'll most likely just get an older phone online and use that with a prepaid plan, so you might want to consider that.
I was also considering 4G devices so that I could use them for years to come, basically the only one I came to like is the LG Wine, it's a flip phone that looks decent, but is unfortunately running some linux or android crap. The good thing is I don't think it has any google services or any of that crap, it even has issues working with google's email system which for me is a good sign. It doesn't have an app store or anything. Downside is it doesn't have an outer screen for Caller ID if you care about that, but if I had to get a new phone that would be it.
>Is there any way I can set a phone to only receive signal from cell towers (for I can receive calls) but to not send (except, of course, while I'm in a call)?
that's not how cell towers can work.
>it makes calls and texts, not sure how you want to hack it...
What I had in mind is being able to change the built-in software. I think that being able to change the software is a good extra to consider when choose a device.
Anyways, the only thing I would use a dumbphone for anything besides making calls and texts is listening to mp3 while biking. But that is also an extra that I can easily live without.
I need help deciding between two laptops.
My goal is light-medium gaming, specifically when my PC finally dies, since it's been acting up a bit. I need help picking which is better.
Acer Swift 3 SF315-41-R8PP (Ryzen 5 2500U, Mobile Vega 8 GPU) $699.99
Acer Swift 3 SF315-41G-R6MP (Ryzen 7 2700U, Radeon RX 540 GPU) $655.98
I know the former has a worse CPU, but I don't know which GPU is better definitively despite researching a bit. I'm going with AMD hardware cause I'd rather support them than Intel/Nvidia, but if there's a huge enough performance difference at a similar price I might be persuaded towards other options.
There's at-least a handful of laptop with Ryzen CPUs but Nvidia GPUs like 1050 / 1650 and at-least one with a an RX 560X and that would be much better for lightish gaming
I want to replace my gpu for something with low power usage and good linux support. the shortlist:
- rx 550 - open source drivers, fan at 100% at all times on lunix 79€
- rx 560 - open source drivers, working fans with pwm, 99€
- gt 1030 - hevc decoding support, closed source drivers 79€
- gt 710 - closed source drivers, but cheap 39€
I just use my computer for programming and watching videos. should I just get the 710 and gamble on nouveau supporting the card whenever nvidia dumps support for it?
The 560 is the only sane price performance ratio of what you listed, although a 570 with an undervolt would still bow the fuck out of the rest by a quite large margin, that is if 3D / Compute performance is a factor
Thanks. Seems you're right, I found one with the RX 560x but it's refurbished with a hard-drive and I'm not sure it's serviceable to install an SSD in. I'll look into that.
In the meantime, do you happen to know which of the Vega 8 or RX 540 is better?
540 is slightly better but by a thin margin going by the few benchmark you can find .
that's true but I don't think it's really necessary, just nice. I would rather use a normal mp3 player like a SanDisk clip because most phones you would get will not support a large library of music and if you for some reason run down your battery listening to music, your phone won't work. I use a clip sport with a 64GB card for all my music.
Is there a reason to prefer e.g. Nvidia GX 1800 over the 2800? I heard rumors there are.
>- rx 550 - open source drivers, fan at 100% at all times on lunix 79€
what kernel? new one might fix it, 590 needs a new one as well.
turns out that it's not a software but rather a hardware problem - the fans just have two cables on some models, and thus no PWM
What instant messenger should I use? I'm looking for annonymity, encryption and decentralization.
Would anyone mind looking at my new PC build, giving me some thoughts?
I already have RAM, and a nice keyboard and mouse, plus monitor.
256GB M.2 is pretty cheap. I would add one and use the 4TB for media and other backup. Hyper threading wont help with games. You've added Windows there too, so you should go straight AMD. If you're using Linux only, Intel/Nvidia might make sense. I see no reason in spending $400 for a 3.7GHz 6 core when you could get a 4.2GHz 12 core for $329 when Ryzen 2 hits the market.
Trying to determine if it is worth having an NVMe boot drive over a SATA3 2.5. All I can find benchmarks for are Windows 10 boot times, and the difference is ~12s goes down to ~8 seconds.
What I'm really interested in though is update times, on a HDD it isn't unusual for updates to add 20 minutes to shutdown and 40 minutes to boot time. Microsoft releases at least two giant patches per year so I'm surprised there are no threads about it on the various mainstream hardware sites.
don't do that
NVMe is faster, but unless you're transferring large files all the time, SATA SSD should be fine.
my isp is offering me free fibre upgrade. should i accept the offer and what are they up to?
Well those windows patches can be pretty huge, but they are also compressed. I guess what I'm looking for is an application installation benchmark, but all I can find are application initialization benchmarks.
ebay pro key, even a win7/8 one and simply use that to upgrade
the bigger question is if nvme is worth it considering your use case. the big windows updates are usually best installed fresh to get rid of shit that accumulates over time (and best to wait anyway to see how fucked up it really is), the small ones are no issue if you restart your windows often enough or let it patch over night when you're asleep. even just clicking reboot and taking a shit is usually more than enough, especially since you don't want ms to install stuff immediately to use you as a beta tester.
TLDR: why spend more to fix/workaround microsoft's retarded shit?
check if you pay more with a new contract due to fiber and/or for the installation.
What's a good bang for buck solution for a laptop one could hook an eGPU on?
I'm not really well off and I need to upgrade for student stuff because my old toaster is dying, however I can't afford to buy a separate desktop for vidya or other shit, which is why I'd like some help in finding any cheap-ish laptop you can hook up an eGPU to without having to take out the wireless card or cripple it somehow
An eGPU is only a good idea if you need 1080ti-tier grunt in your laptop, can't you just make do with something like a 560X / 1050, because a laptop with a decent CPU + an eGPU is gonna run you the same price as just getting a laptop with the actual thing straight up if you just need a low/mid end card.
>because a laptop with a decent CPU + an eGPU is gonna run you the same price as just getting a laptop with the actual thing straight up
That's true but then I can't really add, change or upgrade that if I do ever run into more cash, I can't afford to even get a GPU right now but I at least want to be able to when I have the option, plus it's bulky and not good for carrying around too much, I guess I'm just trying to kill two birds with one stone, I move around a lot so I need something that wouldn't burden me down but I could still utilize for more than just basic stuff when I'm home, I'd get a desktop if I could but alas
I mean sure but it's really hard to justify
Cheapest you can get is probably 250 for the eGPU box, then you have to have an Thunderbolt 3 capable laptop, which I'm not sure you can find on the cheap, then obviously comes the GPU I'd be surprised if you can get a setup like that under 1000-1200, meanwhile a new ryzen laptop with a 1660ti will run you 1000-1200
If usage on the go is not necessary and you just need the ability to move it often, consider an SFF build.
I'm planning on getting a cheap laptop under $400. Can someone recommend me a decent laptop with an HDMI port?
>250 for the eGPU box
Holy shit what the heck, does chinaman not make those yet?
I've thought of that, a friend of mine even linked me one he liked the other day though I have no idea how to actually go about it I'm a bit of a novice when it comes to building
I know a guy who really likes his yoga 11e thonkpad
I have a T430 with an i7 botnet processor. 16GB memory and it works pretty well. I got it refurb on eBay for about $400. Also has a 1TB SSD. Screen is 16:9 obviously which sucks but I like it. if you don't like the new style keyboard you can swap it for a t420 keyboard as well. Mine has an NVIDIA NVS video card, but it also supports an expressCard eGPU IIRC.
looks like you can easily pick up a t430 on ebay right now for less than $400 especially if you don't need the built in graphics. You can go with that, upgrade the disk if you need to, and then get yourself a docking station for $20 plus an expresscard GPU adapter and then you have your laptop plus a desktop solution with graphics.
>Holy shit what the heck, does chinaman not make those yet?
There's a solution that is kinda hazardous, doesn't work all the time and requires some soldering, for 75 bucks, and it's merely a PCIe riser on the GPU end, doubt it's what you want.
>I've thought of that, a friend of mine even linked me one he liked the other day though I have no idea how to actually go about it
That link is a NUC, not what you want if you want a GPU
Really SFF is simple until you have to deal with the CPU heatsink and GPU, just make extra sure the clearance is what you need for what you want to put in the case and everything should be good, PSU might also be something you need to pay attention to as a slim PSU can help with space management.
Also absolutely avoid anything with a high TDP if you want to avoid extra headaches with thermal issues.
Yes, I came here in search of this information
Any VPN that you pay once instead of as a monthly service, and that is good for piracy? It's a different question from >>1049137 because I'm a poorfag.
cryptostorm, has a "lifetime" option and doesn't seem particularly fishy has payment via crypto as the preferred option.
Is System76 Serval WS a good choice for a powerful laptop? Or do any of you have any good alternatives?
That's very enticing, what about the T540p?
It seems to be the same price as the T430's at this point plus 4th gen botnet instead of 3rd and the eGPU forums seem to recommend it
There's still the issue of powering the thing to begin with while outside though, I can always throw in an extra battery in my bag for a laptop though granted it depends on where my lectures would be
Also I've seen a vid out there connecting the particular model with a GPU, granted I'm not against building my own if it's any cheaper
I could be wrong, but the price seems high for a laptop, even for the given specs. I like the look though. I hate that modern laptops are getting so flat you can't plug anything in without adapters or that they might snap if you hold them wrong.
Their profile looks like something I'd see from a progressive start-up which has me worried, but if they don't talk politics they might be okay.
system76s are just rebranded Clevo/sagers. you can usually find decent resellers selling the exact same thing with good warranties and without the system76 markup.
give me one reason why i shouldn't buy a 7820X but one reason why i should buy this unit is for its memory bandwidth. This unit is faster with 1.2v and will be even faster with 2.75v which means your system will be faster. Even with just one core clock increase, i had no problems loading games or gaming applications such as GTA V or Crysis 3. With two cores, i have seen lag in titles for such things as The Division (where 2.5v clocks were used over 2.2v and the other 1.2v was used for loading games).
I was thinking of buying some speakers and was looking at the logitech z623 and the z906. The z906 looks a bit overkill being 5.1 with 500w. The z623 look pretty nice, but I don't know a lot when it comes to audio. I barely play any games on pc these days last upgrade I did was in 2010 and just listen to some music on weekends.
Any recommendations? Maybe the z906 is a bit too much, but it also looks pretty nice.
>yoga 11e thonkpad
I'm planning on getting a cheap laptop with windows 7, how does this thinkpad compare to a cheap HP laptop with an HDMI port?
HDMI 2.1 supports 120hz. What monitors support HDMI 2.1 and 120hz refresh rate?
same here, was wondering about it too (looking at the z265). I don't expect top of the line but logitech is usually solid enough.
Good, cheap e-reader I can pirate stuff with?
I have two questions, are vertical mouses a meme? My wrists and forearms starts to hurt when I play games for too long with KB+M, would a vertical mouse help with the wrist pain? And for the forearm I imagine it's a posture or chair/desk height thing, are any reliable sources to find a decent height for them?
Another thing, I need a decent mouse that's not too expensive, I am done buying 5 dollars ones that start double clicking randomly.
The T540p is the last Chinkpad to have an upgradeable CPU and can accept a 3K (2880x1620) IPS screen. You can easily swap a 1080p screen for a 3k panel since they share the same display housing, provided you get the proper display cable. God help you if you want to upgrade from an XGA display as you will waste more money buying a separate display housing, hinges etc than if you bought a 1080p model. The screen won't matter for an eGPU setup because of the external monitor but it's still a big QOL upgrade. You may elect to remove the shitty clickpad for a T450 trackpad if you want to fuck with drivers but since you seem to want to game on this you already have a mouse at hand
tried a handrest yet? might help.
as for arms check any legal ergonomics guide, height etc should be one of the first things mentioned.
kindle is cheap but you get what you pay for. also locks you into the amazon system with their shit format (you can jailbreak it, but why bother?).
nook/kobo both have entry level models, or get a refurbished mid-level one. either way check the features so you don't pay for stuff you don't need.
Sony PRS-350. Old ereader that runs a customized Linux. (not Android) Opens books, that's mostly it. No wlan, no "stores", none of that gay botnet shit. Mounts as an USB drive in the operating system of your choice and you copy files to it. That's it. There's a firmware floating around that lets you do more things with it, for example install custom fonts and "inject" them via CSS. (Bitterly is a nice ereader font)
It's also easy to open and the battery is a standard size, so you can easily replace it if it's run down. A fresh battery lasts forever. It's also very small and lightweight, with a nice brushed aluminum front. Downside is it's pretty old and fairly hard to get, but on the other hand if you see it offered you can get it for very cheap. I went through quite a few expensive ereaders and that thing is hands down my favorite one and I'll nurse it forever. (especially seeing that ereaders have often Android now)
Is anyone going to get Navi? It looks over priced.
I'd advise getting a trackball, it's excellent to get rid of wrist pain.
This helps me, is a bit time consuming, but you can't buy health, so better try this.
I'm close to my 40s and I literally never had any problems with my wrists or anything else. I think what helps most is taking breaks and also moving in these breaks because that's what I've done all my life. It's not good to sit unmoving in a position. (also try not to be so fat, that's always good advice)
Pocketbooks don't run android
Is there any good headsets with easily replaceable ear muffs/padding?
Looking for a sound bar, want it to be a good brand with good sound. Price isn't an issue but nothing audiophile-tier. Bluetooth would be nice but not needed.
HyperX Cloud (first gen) comes with two pairs of padding, one leather the other cushion.
When you get a new battery, are you supposed to let it charge overnight right away, or drain it completely first and then charge it fully?
Literally do whatever. Any other recommendation is fearmongering
I've always heard the "charge before use"
Sounds nice, but where do I get one? All I can find are used listings.
I've got 8GB in my primary system because either a ram stick or that part of the motherboard is dead and I haven't been able to replace it. It works fine for all games, but I've had problems running >9000 mods for some games.
Skyrim+mods: I get micro stuttering when I load my mods from a traditional drive. It could be my system memory limitation, only running 8GB
I'm using a Ryzen 5 1600 and I notice the benchmarks for newer processors only give me a 20% improvement for games.
Should I upgrade to an RTX 2080 from a GTX 1060 without changing my processor, or will that leave me processor limited?
also I tend to play on smaller resolutions, aiming for a solid 60fps with a bazillion mods.
The big thing with batteries is to keep them cool that outweighs everything else.
Don't buy novideo, wtf
Can you opt out at any time, as in, if you decided to get a different VPN, could you?