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/tech/ - Technology

Winner of the 19th Attention-Hungry Games
/scifi/ - We won because we paid Yawn fifty bucks.

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File: 9cd31551fedf586⋯.png (4.65 KB, 200x200, 1:1, dollarsign.png)


Looking to buy something but aren't sure what to get? Ask here.


My computer died, it's an old absurd gaming computer set up from about 2007? I have no idea what can be salvaged if it's even worth salvaging, mostly the hard drives if anything.

I have about $1k to spend and I'm looking to buy or build a new gaming desktop that can run two monitors. Preferably I'd rather just buy a prebuilt but hell if I know which is best.




put the os on a ssd

salvage your hard drives use for other files and programs

salvage the optical drives if needed

salvage the case if needed

here is cost effective example:



File: 6c38b660b17a6d7⋯.jpg (33.78 KB, 500x500, 1:1, jvc-gy-hmq10.jpg)

I'm looking for a camera. I'm looking for budget but I would like to record in 4K. Do you have any recommendation ? Thanks.


I'm looking to buy 1TB SSD to replace my 60GB SSD as a boot drive. Right now, it looks like Samsung is the better option, although I see that there is an EVO and PRO version, the former being cheaper. Question is, does it really matter which version I get for a boot drive?



Came into an old Dell Inspiron and I am looking to replace the hard drive. Looking for a reliable and cheap replacement, space isn't a real concern as long as it's over 50GB.



Get the 1600 if you can

2 extra cores for not that much more money



Pretty satisfied with my Moto X Play

Good screen, good camera, big battery, well built

Can't complain



New AMD CPU have something similar, but not quite as bad as intel ME



All depends on the price

Performance is 1070 < Vega 56 < 1080



Many vpns have a kill switch though, or is that unrelated/security theathre


I have 2 requests.

One is /tech/ related, other less so, but i have nowhere to go

Request one, VPN would like to use it for torrenting, need windows/linux(ubuntudont kill me /tech/, i know that it is part botnet) Budget is around 60usd(preferrably less)

Request 2, my chink chair brokethe fake leather first came off, then the stablization system collapsed and it became one way sided, thus had to throw it in the garbage, 100 euro well wasted.Using a shitty temporary small chair but my back fucking hurts. and i would like to know what /tech/ uses.


I'm looking at video cards and I'm pretty lost.

I'm looking for a high end replacement for an absurd custom build that ran two of these:


Those two cards are now dead apparently so I need new ones. My concerns are compatibility issues, as it is a now relatively old setup, I recall hearing that things like PCI express 3.0 should work on something that supported 2.0 but otherwise I don't know what other potential compatibility problems I might have. I'm generally just looking for something high performance but not super amazing, I usually run 2 2560x1600 monitors but only run games border less window on one of them, with the exception of dual boxing eve online with one client running in a smaller resolution window.

The motherboard appears to be this


and power supply


Also of note is I notice the power supply cords are two 8 pin connectors as that's what the original cards used but most cards I look at are "6/8 pin" connections. I would need new cords right?



PCIE 2.0 and 3.0 are interoperable. Your current mobo is a 3.0 mobo and it worked with your 2.0 cards lol.

Check the pins on your PSU, according to an online spec sheet you have 6+2 pin connectors. The 2 should split off in your hands after you've unplugged it from your video card. These are standard, you shouldn't have to worry about this.

You're probably best off looking for a good deal on a 1070 or 1080.



Mullvad gets good reviews. Check out wirecutter.com for office equip.


Just get 1 good video card. They are backwards compatible. It will have an 8 and 6 pin power connectors. It needs both. If you PSU only has 8 pin coming out, you should be able to find an 8 to 6 pin adapter for cheap.



follow-up: some games you just can't play with high performance because they crash. in general it's pretty crashy. I just uninstalled XCOM2 when I was waiting ten seconds while nothing happened for the tutorial to advance. Maybe the new laptop APUs + better open source drivers will fix things for AMD next year.

In the meantime: AMD's only better for battery life on a gaming laptop under Linux.


File: 366615ec13ae935⋯.png (42.25 KB, 776x632, 97:79, 9DiPuio.png)

File: 71b207000b5f95c⋯.jpg (2.96 MB, 2988x5312, 9:16, thousands - Copy.jpg)

>Need to build giant server with RAID capability that can be wired to main PC and HTPCs

>Took classes on this shit and still have no idea what I'm doing

>Racks are like 700$ but can't tell if they even come with the ports/wires necessary

There's a small closet in the computer room that has enough space to house a rack, I want to build it. The idea was to wire it to the PC as a massive storage database for information I have on discs. Pic related is only one of several rooms.

Hopefully there won't be any questions on the necessity of a 32tb server, I just need to know how to do it. Simple storage, not a lot of necessity for speed but it'd be nice. I already have what I think is a good harddrive picked out but I have no idea how to do the rest.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16822235120 - Harddrive

What parts do I need? I hear a server needs a motherboard and some other stuff but I always see these weird lockboxes with harddrive slots called enclosures. Are those complete servers or just cases? What the hell are my choices for a data center this big in a closet?




See, my problem is I have no idea what any of this shit is with 'switches' and 'cables'. This explains to me that a table can be used to mount a rack, not how to build a rack or even what a fucking rack is. I know nothing about servers, I only have discs.


I saw a movie, Blade Runner, which is a touching story about an incel and his love for an AI girlfriend who was, tragically, created by an evil corporation.

So any recommendations for AI girlfriends? I've heard of a few limited-run products in Japan, so small that I bet those are mostly mechanical turk -- not something I want in a romantic partner. I've also heard of less-serious girlfriends you can run out of a Nintendo handheld and such. Any luck with those? Is my best bet still to play VNs and forget about non-fantasy interactions with a loving AI?




Yeah, that's something like what I'm looking for, but I was hoping I might be able to build it myself. I'm not so much computer incompetent as untrained in this specific area. If I had the partlist I could puzzle it out without overpaying which is what I'm trying to do, but I don't understand the nuances of building the rack. I've tried looking at guides online and they have partlists that consist of a mobo, cpu, RAM, a raid controller, and drives with a simple cabinet case or something of that design. If I buy one that is pre-fabbed I'm afraid it'll break the budget and I won't be able to buy the 1,000 bucks worth of HDDs.


What are some reliable hard drive brands? Need to buy a 2.5" for a laptop.



Some resources for you to check out



I've had a Samsung evo 850 120GB ssd for 3 years now without issue, that's the only 2.5" I have.



Thanks, I usually scavenge the last hard drive from whatever laptop I had previous. But I want a new one for this rig I salvaged.



Sounds like you should just get more of a desktop server setup instead of racks


This one's a doozy but perhaps one of y'all has some ideas:

I want a $500-600 laptop that can be used for games, but is also as private/secure as possible. I'm currently running a librebooted T400 but want the ability to play modern games, and the Intel card in there isn't up to speed. I've looked at the coreboot list, but most of those laptops are several years old as well. Is basic bitch me_cleaner all that is possible with modern hardware?

Please advise



can't give any advice on security but can offer this one neat trick when buying laptops, look for one with a small amount of installed ram but is also expandable to a larger amount. usually, low amount of ram laptops go for much less, and it is easy to pick up or scrounge for older ram that will fit.



Laptop manufacturers hate him.

This anonymous nerd found one neat trick to get an inexpensive laptop, and basically, you're spending too much.


Any recommendations for a cheapish ebook reader, or a tablet that has more than a days battery


I’m in the market for a new laptop. I currently have an HP DV6 quad core that is dying.

The main things I am looking for are:

1. Battery life (very important)

2. Good build quality, nothing bending

3. Stylish, thin, modern looking enough for women to think I spent a lot on it.

I don’t game at all. I would install Gentoo on it. I am thinking about either the latest Dell XPS 13 or a slightly older MacBook Pro. I am open to other suggestions.



Is there an android piracy site for application's that's at least mildly considered safe for use?



/v/'s share thread found a repository of android apks although only for videogames.


I noticed my sound on my PC has less bass, sound overall is muddier, more shallow and grainy compared to listening on my phone when plugging headphones so I was thinking about buying a dedicated sound card or could it be another issue

I was also looking at getting some new headphones and some speakers


What should I do if I suspect that a just-purchased laptop has been intercepted by US intelligence? It already has Linux installed on it. It's something I could easily open and inspect with a normal (tiny) screwdriver set. Anything in particular that I should look for?



Sell the laptop on craigslist and buy another using some other method where your odds of being fucked are lesser?

By any chance was did your shipment sit on the loading dock for longer than normal at the retailer, then get delayed in a hub city for the carrier with something like "Delayed due to hazardous weather conditions" even though there was no weather in that area? Just curious



>day 1, 2AM: leaves NY

>day 2, 2PM: uh "the trailer was late", we have no idea where it is or when you'll get it -- or we aren't telling you.

>day 3, 3AM: ok it just arrived at an airport by a big military base that's a couple of hours away from you. still no ETA

>day 3 (evening): update! you'll get it on day 4. no it hasn't moved at all. it's just sitting at this airport.



no intermediate steps omitted. it teleported from a truck to an airplane and then stayed overnight .



I had one suspect shipment of an nvidia video card some years ago. With the initial delay of 24 hours on the loading dock and another 24-36 due to weather at a hub (with no weather or major news stories in that area that would explain). The carrier was UPS which is normally fairly reliable.

If it was a private carrier I would be worried, if it was USPS (regular mail) I would not be so worried their tracking is broken and they suck. Wouldn't mean that it wasn't fucked with but wouldn't particularly indicate anything in that case.



this is UPS as well.

what did you do with the video card?



TBH I did use it but I first used another PC to use nvflash to put another BIOS on it. But if I did it again I would have just sold it and acquired another one not through the mail. Not that anything bad happened but I was investigating crimes at the time and thought there could be reason to be fucked with.



And I realize that if it was tampered with, using nvflash to replace with another bios is not necessarily sufficient without really advanced knowledge of what might be possible with that type of video card. I just figured if it was fucked with that was a likely way it would happen. NVIDIA drivers are cancer anyways so it's probably a moot point


File: 168d60b32ba52a8⋯.jpg (125.81 KB, 1349x1197, 71:63, 0c9cec1deeef71d9e80d018465….jpg)

What phone is the least entrenched in botnet and/or Jewey business practices while still being able to interact with the modern world via apps and such? I understand I can't have it all, just asking which is comparatively the least bad.

Other than that I'm not particularly needy, but good RAM, good storage, good battery life and good camera resolution would all be nice.

After some cursory research the HTC looks pretty nice, but doesn't have a headphone port for some ungodly reason. I didn't even realize that was a variable, but yeah, I guess I'd kinda like one of those.



>buy a GPU which has been going full bore 24/7/365

Why would anyone want to reward you for being a cunt?

Buy new GPUs from now until cryptocurrency is dead.


I want to buy a Razer Deathadder. Is there any significant positive or negative to the various models? Obviously the sensor DPI goes from 3500 to 6400 to 10000, but I wouldn't use more than 1500 anyways. They all have roughly the same cost at local retailers.



Some of them are guaranteed to break within two months. I don't know which. Good luck!



Will this thing work without catching fire? if so is there going to be GPU bottleneck due to the CPU? I just want to play Nier Automata and Vanquish at max settings.



Be careful with ITX, make sure you have enough space.

You can go for slower RAM, Ryzen's memory controller struggles to go over 3200.


File: 3192962f6e65a98⋯.png (111.15 KB, 500x377, 500:377, ai_pet_family.png)


I'm looking for a new laptop because my MacBook Pro that I bought before I was initiated has hit its product cycle and died. I'm looking for a portable laptop that can handle daily tasks like email, shitposting, etc, but also GIMP and some vidya low to mid is a good enough graphics level for me.

My budget is somewhere under $1000, preferably near the $500 mark. Preferably something made/designed in japan because I live in Japan.


Looking for a cheap, quality mic, which I can plug directly into my PC. I'm considering the Samson Q2U or the Audio-Technica ATR2100, any suggestions?



i was also thinking i could get something like a pyle pdmic58, a stand, an xlr to usb cable, and plugging it directly into my pc





You're confusing a rack with a rack-mounted server.

A server is just a computer. Your cell phone could be a server so long as it serves content that is stored on it to another computer. Server computers are only physically different from desktop computers in that they are optimized for space efficiency and would normally ship with features that help make backups, servicing, and hardware monitoring easier.

When you say you need to build a SERVER, you mean that you need to SERVE this information out to the internet, right? You're getting such basic terms confused that I want to be sure what you are talking about isn't just a backup or home server type of setup. You're talking about wanting/needing to serve your information to dozens/hundreds/thousands of people, and not just yourself, right? When you're talking about RAID, you're talking about requiring near-constant uptime Uptime meaning the percentage of a year in which the content was accessible over the internet and live hot-swapping of failed drives and stuff, right?

If this is just wanting a backup of this stuff and making it available to a handful of other people, you're going about this the wrong way.



Aren't taxes very high in Japan compared to the US? If you have friends here you could probably have them buy something, make sure it works, then ship it out to you.



Not him, but:

Sales tax is lower in Japan than it is in many parts of the U.S.

It would easily cost $50+ to ship a laptop from the U.S. to Japan. Maybe more with insurance. And he might have to pay customs duties.


I'm horribly disorganized and I hate binders, so I'm looking for a drawing tablet so I can take notes digitally and easily store them on my computer. It doesn't actually need to be good for drawing or anything; what's the most barebones model I can get that's still quality?


File: aa19cae40316c68⋯.jpg (173.68 KB, 1500x1074, 250:179, 81SecAuvv6L._SL1500_.jpg)


You could look into pic related


File: 7c794d7b438f350⋯.jpg (186 KB, 600x600, 1:1, CTL490W_GalleryImage_10_60….jpg)


these are pretty good, just use task/taskwarrior


Intel 7600K

Be quiet pure rock

MSI z270-A pro

Crucial Ballistix Sport LT BLS2C4G4D240FSB

Crucial MX300 2,5" 275GB

Seagate Barracuda 2TB

KFA2 GeForce GTX 1060 OC amazon

Corsair Carbide 270R

Corsair VS550

Be quiet pure wings 2x

SATA Startech, 30 cm 2x

Iiyama ProLite E2483HS-B1 Zwart 60 Hz LCD TN 1 ms

How would this hold up as a mid-range PC?


Will 1080p video on a 1440p monitor look noticeably worse than 1080p video on a 1080p monitor?



You could get a lot more value if you get used components. A i7 2600k or a i7 3770k aren't that much slower than a 7600k and there will be almost no difference is gaming performance. Also used GFX cards have alot of value, you could get a used 980 for less than the price of a 1060. If you care about the data your are storing on your computer you should not go with a seagate drive, seagate has high failure rates. WD and HGST are much better brnads for hard drives.



Least botnet phone?

Any flip phone more than a decade old.

Least botnet smartphone?

Any phone supported by Replicant.





A machine with windows or steam for linux is never secure. Just buy a libreboot laptop and get a separate desktop for games.


File: 3781ca8a9b25b47⋯.png (390.12 KB, 743x475, 743:475, Prayboy.png)

I'll try and make it short. I need a higher power computer for school and I don't need it to be autistically libre (aka libreboot with trisquel, current computer is a x60t with libreboot and debian installed) though it would be preferable if it was easy to dissemble and modify like a t60 or something. I would probably need it to be portable so a laptop would probably be needed. Though if I could get an easily transportable desktop that would be nice, though I doubt that is easily possible outside of some chip computer bull crap.

If I could get a nice website that would help me narrow my options that would be nice. Never the less I am grateful for any advice.


I am using a high end hdtv as a pc monitor and I guess I am now gaming on a htpc, but can't come up with a decent way to set up my keyboard and mouse. I don't like having the keyboard on my lap because I lose my place easily and I shift around a lot. Is there a solution and if so, what products can you recommend?



are you sitting down?

are you standing up?


File: 89753e783e8eca1⋯.jpg (126.53 KB, 800x800, 1:1, 1469779295569.jpg)

Recommend me a quiet 3,5" 4tb hdd für 24/7 torrent hosting. The hdd is inside an usb case, wd elements. I used to have a wd green hdd in that case, but it died after 3 or 4 years of 24/7 use.



>he seeds torrents at home




sitting in a comfy lounger


File: e66026b4c8f6279⋯.png (203.22 KB, 600x600, 1:1, ClipboardImage.png)


You might build something similar to what's in pic, but build it so it's custom to your sitting rig and either attaches or clips to chair or slides under it. Should be a fun project.



I've thought about building something with specific measurements for the chair and my leg height, but thought there might be some adjustable pole slide with a tray for the keyboard and mouse.


File: ac0eaceb1a9431b⋯.png (676.48 KB, 750x750, 1:1, ClipboardImage.png)


More like this?



More or less, yes. That looks like a senior citizen home setup, but if it is in the name of comfort, so be it. Names or products I should be searching for?



I did a web image search for

recliner table


File: b1eab31876db425⋯.png (78.61 KB, 445x483, 445:483, Recliner table.PNG)


think I got something that would work, thanks for your help



>seeding from your home.




>trusting any sort of SaaSS



I've been hearing some rumors that HookTube is secretly a honeypot that data mines IP addresses. Is this true or not?



I don't have any evidence as to it is collecting data, but every server has logs for maintenance purposes, and this includes the routers for the ISP's between the server you connect to and your own ISP.

I don't think this is the right thread however to ask about that.


File: 1f089edd0846ad7⋯.gif (2.77 MB, 287x191, 287:191, never obsolete.gif)

where does /tech/ get their torrents?

I've been using TPB for ages now and it's crapping up on me now that I'm trying to get my hands on adobe's lightroom.



Music and ebooks - private trackers, everything else - rutracker (which is also fine for music and ebooks in most cases).


Worth getting a C64 modem and SD card reader, or trapdoor ram, Gotek and new case for my Amiga 500+?

Can the Amiga connect to the internet still these days?



Floppy emulator makes a lot of sense, since floppies are hard to find, and their quality has been terrible since the mid 90's when all production went to China. But don't hack up your computer just to add floppy emulator. There are some standalone ones that work kinda like an external floppy drive.

Adding memory makes sense, and there's a guy from Canada who sells 8 meg boards that fit between the CPU and motherboard. That maxes out your memory for stock A500+ system. After that you have to upgrade to 68020 or later if you want more memory.

I don't know what the requirements are for TCP/IP Internet, but for sure you'll need extra ram and possibly an accelerator if you want to use the graphical web browsers with SSL, etc. But any old A500 can use modem or null modem cable for serial point-to-point comms to BBS or Unix shell. You just need the hardware and a terminal emulator program like they have here: http://aminet.net/comm/term

Check eab.abime.net for more infos.


File: 28003edfa2d7181⋯.png (471.1 KB, 640x480, 4:3, ClipboardImage.png)

File: 27b448c40e93d07⋯.png (1.94 MB, 1920x1200, 8:5, ClipboardImage.png)

Thinkpad X1 Carbon (5th gen) or Thinkpad X270

>money doesn't matter

>I can choose any configuration

>I need it for academic work (writing, Excel, simulation software) and travels so good battery life is a must (8h at least)

>dual boot Windows (work) and Linux (personal)

Which one would you recommend?



Didn't realize there was 8mb boards for 500+. Every time I go to look for shit, most of it is 600/1200. Considering a ACA500 as well at one stage, or a Vampire V2 later on. Right now all I have are the funds for this shit.

I really just wanted to use IRC and shit. I wasn't expecting the likes of a modern browser on it.


Will the 450W PSU be enough for ryzen1600 and gtx1050ti phoenix?


File: c706cb85593c425⋯.jpg (24.89 KB, 500x500, 1:1, 310089534_tn50_0.jpg)

So what's the catch with Android One? I'm looking to buy a phone and GM6 looks good with its specs and for my pocket but it comes with Android One. Anything important i need to know? Also i'm from kebabland so if you have a better suggestion within 800-1000TRY price range be my guest.



out of the two I'd go with the x270 with the FHD panel, touchscreen is offered,PCIe SSD for more battery life and the option to slap a SATA drive in if you need to later, and an extended battery


should be, I'm using a r7 1700 with a gtx970 on a 500w antec with a buttload of drives.


I want a dedicated device for reading ebooks. Must support epub. Budget $200


Need an external hard drive that is compatible with Ubuntu/Linux. What do?



Any usb hdd will do.



>usb hdd

So then Seagate Expansion 1TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STEA1000400) is good?



Any of them.


Kobo Glow, forget the latest version.

Would the One Laptop Per Child XO thing be a good machine if I want to teach myself programming and contact a git server but not have the ability to watch porn?



You can nearly fit a 32tb NAS into a shoebox now. Here's one way to do it. http://awktopus.net/nas.html




shit, replied to wrong post


Is ThreadRipper worth getting? I compile a lot, do some video editing and game a little.

Is there an equivalent of me_cleaner for AMD PSP?


8600k vs 8400, using gtx 1080 for 1080p 144hz


Am I drinking too much soykaf /tech?

A - Small touchscreen ( $60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FFAFMM0/ref=psdc_1292115011_t1_B006R3EHSK)

B - Portable battery ($14 https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerCore-Lipstick-Sized-Generation-Batteries/dp/B005X1Y7I2/ref=lp_2407758011_1_8?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1510629067&sr=1-8)

C - Compute Stick ($40 https://www.ebay.com/p/Intel-Compute-Stick-Atom-Z3735f-Linux-Ubuntu-14-04-STCK1A8lfC/901254901 )

D - USB Stick (You have one)

E - Get a wireless stick with linux support

1 - Load a linux OS onto D.

2 - Plug D and E in C.

3 - Sandwich B inbetween A and B and plug it into C.

4 - Use D to install a linux OS onto C.

5 - Install Jitsi onto C.

6 - Enjoy VoIP with your E.

Tada, linux phone?

I have no idea what to do for E, and the huge fucking wire mess.



Thank you. I pulled the trigger on beefed up x270.


is ddr4 going to come down in price or am i just never going to buy another computer?



Enjoy your rowhammer exploit vulnerabilities tbh

Really though DDR4 has gotten much cheaper. You probably cannot tell because DDR3 has also gotten much cheaper you you're probably just comparing the two



there's a shortage right now due to various issues


File: 02b0f514ed202bc⋯.png (39.93 KB, 1134x348, 189:58, 8gb ddr3.png)

File: 1a8812387501989⋯.png (31.79 KB, 1134x348, 189:58, 16gb ddr4.png)


>DDR4 has gotten much cheaper

I bought 8gb of ddr3 1600mhz memory back in 2013(?) for $32usd. trust me, ddr4 has not gotten "cheaper"


File: d382c7d7fa4ca29⋯.jpg (50.58 KB, 360x480, 3:4, broken mouse.jpg)

I can't find myself a mouse that has an autoclicker. This mouse has been with me for about a year now and finally it started going haywire the other day. I can't find any other mouse that even speaks about auto clicking. It's all just "DPI" or "CPI"

only if i knew the brand of this, i got it from a friend and have no clue who made it. it's all just a foreign language.



I suppose there's no label on the bottom that could shed some insight what brand or model of chinkshit mouse this is?


I know it's a stupid question, because it's such a shit time to buy a GPU, but should I buy a way overpriced RX580? I would hate to support NVidia, but I want something more modern than my 6870, and I want something that's going to be decently futureproof for maybe 60fps 1080p gaming at high/med detail for the next 5 years or so.


File: c010b2c379e927b⋯.jpg (4.07 KB, 300x168, 25:14, boxxy.jpg)

theres a guys selling a dell e7250 on craigslist for 100 dollars. TFW he hasnt replied to my texts yet...



Be careful anon, could be a scam.



ill ask him to meet me somewhere public with wifi and plugins for me to test it

how will i get scammed?



If he's willing to meet during the day under those conditions, then yeah, it's probably real. Some people are retarded and will agree to meet in parking lots alone at night and get enriched, that's what many are fishing for.

Could still be stolen goods, but you eliminate robbery by meeting under those conditions, provided he responds. Lots of times if you go and say, "Can we meet at the starbucks at 4pm?" in your first message, if they're a scammer they won't even respond. They're looking for the trusting old people or something like that.


File: f0de9ac035e5e1d⋯.jpg (20.89 KB, 177x320, 177:320, 8605137.jpg)

Need a new DOCSIS 3.0 capable cable modem


I'm okay with just the modem, have the whole house wired with ethernet.

pic unrelated, just a hot coworker


File: 11520dd89e9388c⋯.jpg (172.48 KB, 1500x1500, 1:1, 715j1zXLyIL._SL1500_.jpg)

Buying a keyboard for my sister who likes to game and use her computer in bed. She works with numbers so needs a NUMPAD but other than that I think it should be small or at least light weight. Mechanical is optional. Any recommendations?



Budget is around €30-50


BitPay Is Some Jewish Shit: The Thread.

BitPay is a service that enables people that trade in baitcoin and other properties to exchange their properties, e.g., coin for coin, coin for fiat, fiat for coin.

They are so awesome. To trade the anonymous botcoin all they ask for is:

Human Name

Business Name

Phone Number

Live Email Address

Account Info (Settlement)

Tax ID Number

Proof of Business Entity

Proof of Business Address

Photograph ID of Human

3 Months of Bank Statements

EV SSL Certification

Interview with BitPay

Approval by BitPay

They also offer to review your account with their compliance department to verify that the business is in compliance with their Terms of Service. Their Terms of Service includes:

- No Narcotics, research chemicals, or any controlled substances.

- No Cash or cash equivalents, including items used for speculation or hedging purposes (such as derivatives), and the sale or trade of virtual currencies.

- Items that infringe or violate any intellectual property rights such as copyrights, trademarks, trade secrets, or patents.

- Ammunition, firearms, explosives (including fireworks), or weapons as determined by BitPay.

- Any services which compete with BitPay.

They also offer to file a 1099, since you are their employee at this point.

Why are you cryptoȷews so fucking greedy ?

Coin is a fucking property, a hold of value.

It should not be treated as a currency, or this shit "regulation" happens.

>butcoin will outȷew the ȷew.

It is the ȷew.

You can reach these fine folk here:

info (at) bitpay.com

compliance (at) bitpay.com

ȷews (at) bitpay.com



Bitcoin isn't anonymous.


My mother has a real piece of shit phone, so I'm either going to get her a new phone for christmas or give her my old Moto G and buy a new one for myself.

I don't (and neither does she) want or need a high-end phone. (i.e. just for messaging, email, some browsing, some pictures)

I've been using a first gen Moto G for years and am very happy with it.

Which is also why I have no real knowledge of the current state of Smartphones.

Are the current Moto G models (G4/G5) still a good choice for solid budget phones?

Could the Moto E (E4) - afaict the lowest end model - be an even better choice for a low-req user?

Are there other phones in the sub 200 (or even sub 150 $/€) range that I should take a look at?



Don't give someone a used phone for Christmas. That's just terrible.


What's /tech/'s phone of choice?

I remember years and years ago on halfchan the moto g was the phone of choice, I got it on their recommendation and I liked it quite a bit.

But I've killed it since then and I'm now using a Huawei something-or-another because it was lying around in the house.



I have a G4, the chipset overheats and throttles under heavy load/heatlike 1080p 10bit animu. otherwise bretty gud. quickcharge is very nice. screen ghosts like a motherfucker if it gets cold. I'd get a G5 if i had the choice today.

my mother has an e4 and does normalfag things on it, screen is meh but she has no complaints


also this.






I'm also in the market for a new phone? Any budget recommendations. Must run Whatsapp, email, and take pictures.






At another anon's recommendation in this very thread ( >>805546 ), I bought a ZTE Axon 7 Mini for $200 a month ago.

It works but I'm not enough of a normalfag to be a phone connoisseur.


File: f98b028634d6de0⋯.jpg (74.74 KB, 556x525, 556:525, 1397796469006.jpg)

I made a mistake and Waited for Vega(tm) and would probably hate myself if I supported Jewvidia, but would probably get over it, right?

I need a graphics card, and the RX 580 for what it's going for is just a stupid fucking decision, but I'm on a 6870 1GB and an i5 970, and cannot play one recent AA game I'd really like to, and struggle to emulate any but the simplest Gamecube/PS2 games. Please talk me out of anything you see as a blatant ripoff.




Thanks, I'll check it out.



You get a much more powerful computer for 50 dollars less this way. Corporate pride might take a hit.




Thank you for your reply. I chose the 1600x for its higher frequency and lower TDP compared to the 8 cores, so that hopefully it won't throttle itself and can maintain 4ghz for the dual core emulators I use (dolphin and pcsx2) that was a tough decision, but I will still have 12 threads at good clocks with the 1600x if I need to do some crunching.

I also don't want to support nvidia because they don't support Linux...

And I did the math for the power supply - after about 3 years of use it'll pay for its price difference in efficiency, and in the meantime run cooler and quieter.

Thanks for the ssd recommendation though, I'll probably take that


I'm looking for a good 1080p 60Hz monitor under 200 euros, for gaming. I'm looking for decent picture quality and good viewing angles, so no TN. I've found two good options, the Asus VC239H and the Benq VZ2470H. Seems like the Benq's AMVA panel has slightly worse viewing angles and some reviews say its colour accuracy is also worse than IPS. Which one should I go for?


What laptop would you recommend for school, coding, and contemporary use?

Keep it $800 - $1000 range.



ThinkPad, get a 2nd hand x1 for example.



I got Nokia 5 for about 170USD, I couldn't find what you recommended in Londonistan.


ryzen 1700 or 1700x 10 dollar difference need a new mobo/ram and case and cooler to go with



stock cooler with the 1700 can oc to 1700x levels easily, so it is a better value, if you are on a tight budget or want to save money, might go this way (a case is usually whatever esthetic you prefer in the budget you have for it, but look for something with front usb 3.0):



Is there a new 14" touch laptop with a cpu at least as powerful as the x230t's i5 3320m?

That doesn't cost 700€


Is polyfilling my woof a good idea?


My woofer makes have this box/sawtooth bass sound when I max it out with a tone generator. I guess its the sound waves in the box clashing at each other.



try lazada chinese mouse although you'll have to sift through "mouse pads" because their search sux




5 star reviews, fully GNU kernel, and active project in github with entire source code released by chink OEM





Preorders are lining up on this badboy. Also rumored to support Oreo and up.


File: 093cb31055ed16a⋯.jpg (625.08 KB, 2048x1280, 8:5, stock-photo-194203265.jpg)

I'm looking for a container to safety store my extra cpu's

I've been looking on amazon and newegg but so far nothing



Bubblewrap and foam for pins?


File: d0cd016853bdae6⋯.jpg (1.4 MB, 2560x1920, 4:3, it's a big tv sitting next….jpg)

I need a 1080p or higher 55 inch television for my parents living room. Where do I even start?



When making a new purchase and getting a feel for what's out there I check several review sites. "Best TVs 2016" would probably be my search, as the slightly older stuff will still be excellent, but you won't pay the "Latest and Greatest" tax on it. So look up several review sites for one, then get a feel for what balance of quality/size/features you need. This should change depending on what else might be planned for your parents' living room - I guarantee you will not want to fill a room large enough to merit a 55" TV with sound from those TV speakers, for example, so you may want to make sure that it has an optical audio out feature for future sound system expansion.

Newegg or Amazon from there for current price deals, but Craigslist after black friday is also a good option, believe it or not. I got a 50" LG 4K TV from some guy who was going in the store for something completely different, saw this TV for a ridiculously low price, like $200 or something, so he bought it to get "points" with the store for his store credit card, then sold it to us for like $400 NIB, which is still a fucking excellent deal.




1700x will be better binned and likely OC better, so consider the future potential as well. Hyper212+, Evo, or MasterAir 4 are the current bang for buck coolers. You have to keep Ryzen cool if you happen to want the Turboboost, or whatever they're calling it, to work.


File: 8439c2f83e235a9⋯.jpg (3.64 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, Pet Me Bitch.jpg)

Hey bois, /tech/ illiterate here. I've been looking for a gaming laptop (inb4 laptops are shit for gaming, I know, but circumstances prevent me from getting a desktop for now). I'm pretty dumb when it comes to this kinda stuff, but I've done a bit of research and it seems like it comes down to the few main factors of: GPU, CPU, RAM, SSD over HDD, Display resolution, and Laptop size.

I've got a fairly hefty budget of around $1700, but Cyber Monday is coming up, and that's when I plan on buying, so I expect that either I won't have to spend as much, or i'll get more bang for my full budget (please add that to any calculations).

Optimal Build -

GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 1070

CPU: Any Quad-Core i7

RAM: 16 GB

Data Storage: 256 GB SSD w/ a bit of added HDD space, or just 512 GB SSD (512 GB SSD is preferable).

Display: 1920 × 1080, anything higher than that is just a bonus.

(Not interested in touch screen display at all)

Laptop size: On the larger end is preferable (16"+), but not super required.

Sorry for the wordy ass post; I'm just excited at not having to deal with my fucking toaster anymore, and wanted to do as much of my own research before having to consult other people, have my dumbass cat as compensation.

His name is Mathew.



>Optimal Build -

>gaming laptop

Well which is it? Sargent makes custom laptops, but they look like shit and are probably bound to fall apart.

The biggest thing you need to consider when talking about any kind of performance is


With excess heat, your equipment will either whirr like a motherfucker, throttle itself killing your performance, or both.

The only gaming laptops I have seen in my years that are worth a shit in terms of component matching, build quality, and QC are the Asus ROG laptops.


File: 08d63528c788ea5⋯.jpg (15.58 KB, 239x207, 239:207, ed.jpg)


I appreciate an actual response. Looking around, 55 is absolutely too large for their bedroom & from tom's recommendations & some further youtube & amazon searches, I found THIS.


The problem is, well, complicated. It's clearly the best deal I can find, it lets them browse youtube videos on it which is probably all they're going to use it for, but my parents are dead set on going to a fucking bestbuy & spending $800 + tax on a 4K Sony TV because "SONY makes the best stuff & black friday is the best time to get deals."

I'm thinking of just ordering this right now & not telling them about it so I can set it up without them knowing. Thoughts on this particular model?



Couple thoughts:

1) TCL I know little about, and I suspect their panel quality for color accuracy/longevity - look up reviews. I'm not a review-master, I just know how to go about looking for things.

2) if they're going to be browsing youtube a wireless keyboard of some kind would be a boon


File: 4650e356a57066b⋯.jpg (26.68 KB, 475x354, 475:354, 4650e356a57066bf32286ecb9f….jpg)


Oh, and when Amazon pages have shit loads of options for the "same" product, make sure to filter reviews based on whatever specific model you're looking at so the 32" reviews don't get lumped in with the 55" reviews, as they are two totally different target audiences, and also sort by date. Often you will notice a product has a "top rated comment!! omg 5 stars XD!" from 2013, and every comment posted in the last two months is, "Didn't notice I bought from an Amazon reseller because the model is discontinued, TV came and literally displayed no color, seller offered me a refurbished open-box model as a replacement, and Amazon told me to shove it. 1 Star" and that sort of thing.


I'm too much of a dumb pussy to build a PC myself. Does anyone know of any good black friday deals for pre-built gaming desktops?



Search AOL.com for "Buy Dell Computer" and click on the first link you see, then enter your credit card number in the first box that pops up.



I probably didn't make myself clear enough, when i said optimal, I meant optimal for my situation, which excludes desktops. But I have taken a look into the ASUS ROG line after your suggestion, and I think they fit my needs really well, so thanks!



I guess I didn't make myself clear enough, because I had intended to emphasize that you were looking for an optimal build when you were not going to build anything, but buy a complete pre-made system.

But yes, the ROG laptops with the large exhaust vents are heavy as fuck, but remain near silent under load (not noisy or average, I mean close to silent under load) which means you're getting peak performance, the panels on them are *excellent*, and they are built to last.



Give a budget and what resolution you want to game at and at what settings, i.e. medium/high/ultra. Also, do you need a monitor?


I would like to build my first tower, but I have no clue what I'm doing, and I'd like to figure out just what I'm getting into:

>What sort of maintenance accessories do I need, other than thermal paste and compressed air?

>Will RAM and GPU prices drop for Black Friday/Cyber Monday? Money isn't a desperate issue for me, but I don't want to be gouged.

>Where should I buy from? I've heard a bunch of stories about people getting jewed by Newegg; are they reliable? Are there any other suppliers that you have good/bad stories about?

>I move often enough that I'd like to make sure my PC is easy to transport. Is there any particular tower/case that's easier to move? Is there anything I need to do or buy to make sure internal components are properly secure for ~8hrs driving?



When I bought on NewEgg, they shipped good products and had reasonable return policies. Don't know if that's changed since then.

Prices are already low. The Cyber Monday and Black Friday deals are retailers clearing house for next year's merch. Just buy something that is good to your specs and be happy.

If you want an easy to manage system, lightweight, but still play your games, a micro-atx build might be good for you.

As for shock-proofing your computer, you might invest in rubber grommets to provide some spring for your components -- like motherboard to case, HDD to chassis, etc. Usually not a problem though.

Maintenance, just spray compressed air everyone in a while, and maybe get a mini-vac for your keyboard -- or a keyboard sleeve.


File: 1f8b5c94421db4e⋯.jpg (232.83 KB, 1423x1500, 1423:1500, 81Jr1nVxMpL._SL1500_.jpg)

Yo /tech/ I want a non-gaming laptop that's not a chromebook a macbook or a Fisher Price learning laptop, what can you recommend? pic related


File: a25c99d458613ad⋯.jpg (338.18 KB, 1423x1500, 1423:1500, bABYTROLL.jpg)



Thanks for your reply.

>Prices are already low.

16GB of RAM is bare minimum >$100, which is a lot higher than it used to be. I'll hold out for sales though.

>a micro-atx build might be good for you.

I'll look into it. I'm planning on doing an AMD build, probably going to be some Ryzen with an RX 580 (unless Vega is worth the ~2x price jump? I doubt it), a large SSD because I'm sick of defragging, and 16 GB of RAM.

>rubber grommets

I'll look that up, thank you.



>16GB of RAM is bare minimum >$100, which is a lot higher than it used to be.

Haven't looked at RAM prices, but RAM is a hot commodity. I would blame the chip manufacturers gouging their consumers, the DIMM manufacturers, which have to raise prices for their consumers just to stay above water.

>I'll hold out for sales though.

The last time I remember RAM being overpriced was in the SDRAM days, and it took it a couple of years until DDR was released for the price to drop to reasonable levels.

They are probably raising prices to gouge consumers until the HBM market comes on-line.

You might try to save money elsewhere say on the case or the motherboard because holding out on a drop in price on RAM.



When I was doing my research, I saw a lot of accusations on Reddit that the three RAM manufacturers were using the increasing demand for RAM in mobile devices to unofficially coordinate a price-fixing cartel. Apparently this has happened before.

And I didn't mean "I'll hold out until RAM is on sale," I meant "I'll hold out until Black Friday and Cyber Monday to see if prices drop."



heh, I thought you meant wait until RAM prices dropped. It wouldn't hurt to wait to see if there are any prices on RAM this weekend, but if there are, I hope you get in before they are all gone.


I'm looking for some mobile headphones to wear outside. They should have a closed design and a low impedance. Of course I should be able to wear them outside, so they shouldn't be too big.

What would you recommend and is it even cool to wear non-in-ear-headphones outside?



A few people I know walk around with ATH-m50x cans over their ears. They seem to fit the bill but depending on how big or small of a guy you are, they may look silly big for you.


File: ee15201912dea65⋯.jpg (60.74 KB, 960x720, 4:3, 1463782519112.jpg)

What's the best AM3+ motherboard on the market.


File: 01906706d0e243a⋯.png (167.79 KB, 1008x1014, 168:169, ChildrenOfTheTrough.png)


I am considering upgrading from my 4790K to a 8700K. My main use would be gaming on a 1440p/144 hertz monitor w/ a 1080 Ti. I enjoy being able to crank settings in new games and get 100+ frames. I also dabble in some light content creation, such as the occasional YT video. I may get into content creation in the future. Seeing as how I have my current build and could carry parts over to the new build, all I require is the chip, board and RAM, not that these would be of negligible cost. But I would buy from a local Micro Center and thus be able to save some money by going with one of their CPU+MOBO bundle deals.

Would it be worthwhile for me to upgrade? I am feeling the itch.



before you do that check if it supports that ME cleaner otherwise you're fucked


File: 0c6719e63c63263⋯.webm (1.13 MB, 640x360, 16:9, Overbye.webm)


That is good suggestion, thank you.



>so I was thinking about buying a dedicated sound card or could it be another issue

is that a realtek audio card?

On the sofware side, you should try managing your pulseaudio daemon config or switch to alsa.

If you use pulse try fiddling with your resample method.

On the hardware side, the only thing you can do is clean the audio port with qtips and isopropyl alcohol.

I guess it's either your PC itself is poorly grounded or short circuit going on somewhere within or your electric source is not efficient while also poorly grounded. The easiest way to find out is if it sounds good on unplugged laptops.

Try turning off some of your home appliance as they can literally affect each other. If the problem still exist either you get a UPS with various anti-grounding/surge or get a decent sound card + anti-static DAC. Do some shielding too.




about the shielding method try to not put your wires down the floor or at least check if your floor produces some kind of signal.

To check it just fire up a USB speaker and put the end of your audio plug on floor or walls. If you hear some buzzing it means it's not a good idea to put wires on them so you gotta shield that floor with something




Medium to high resolution is fine; I don't play very resource intensive games. Also I do need a monitor.


Recommend me a good coaxial to ethernet adapter that isn't expensive.


File: fd3b09d6d9f9ee0⋯.gif (22.5 KB, 96x74, 48:37, 6220950744ec3b5cf2c47d.gif)

Need to buy cheap hardware to host a file server that can do video transcoding since my old 775 hardware finally died.


-raid 5 capable at a minimum

-quad core

-micro atx

-at least one pci-e x16

Looking at options they break down as follows:

AMD FX 6-core, ATX board, LSI raid controller ~320

AMD Ryzen 5, matx board, LSI raid controller, DDR4 mem ~480

Jewtel gayby lake i5, matx board with fake and gay raid 5, ddr4 mem ~370

Reusing existing case, enterprise drives and in the FX's case, memory

It appears that price/performance wise, due to the inclusion of shitty matrix raid 5 that eliminates the need for a separate controller card, jewtel wind out.

Am I missing anything? Do amd chipsets also do raid 5?


Need some < $30 earbuds that sound nice and last song.

Any recommendations?

I'm also aware of Black Friday, so I may compromise the < $30 rule if there is a headphone such that it sounds really good, isn't more than $100, and is known for durability?


File: 14296ad724e6ad6⋯.png (295.26 KB, 1173x695, 1173:695, BestbuyUS.PNG)


Hard to find something pre-built that makes sense for you, you might want to consider getting an online store to build something for you and then ship it. Most pre-builts in your range don't have ssds and likely come with shit power supplies plus bloatware. That said I did two hypothetical builds at the low and top end of your price range that mimics what you would get buying pre-built but a little better from newegg, who I know will build before shipping. Other companies might too.





If that doesn't work for you, you might as well get this and you'll need a monitor still.


there is a cheap one in the pic but the graphics card is pretty weak especially compared to the 580


File: 9c8c04bb758318d⋯.png (72.26 KB, 1175x533, 1175:533, ClipboardImage.png)

>>826531 here, I've made an attempt to start a build and have a bunch more questions because I have no clue what I'm doing:

>DDR4 RAM and DDR3 RAM are incompatible, right? i.e. the mobo I buy will only support one or the other? So should I buy DDR4 for future-proofing, or stick with DDR3? Money isn't an issue, I just want this rig to be able to last 5-10 years without replacing the CPU/mobo. So I guess the question I should ask is, will DDR3 be obsolete in 5 years?

>I've been seeing a lot of parts offered cheap by Mushkin, who I've never heard of before. Are they a reliable brand?

>What's a reliable CPU cooler manufacturer?

>What's a reliable PSU manufacturer? Also, is a single-rail or multi-rail setup better?

>Since I'm probably going to end up reselling the GPU when Navi comes out next year (provided it's actually good and miners don't ruin everything), is the RX 580 going to preserve its value over time for resale? I'd like to get 50% back bare minimum, and I'd prefer 75%.

>Is there a better site than PCPartPicker for store price comparisons? Their database hasn't updated with Black Friday sales yet as far as I can tell (e.g. Amazon has Samsung 850 EVO in stock for $279, but PCPartPicker lists it at $299 minimum).

Also, rate my build.


Do KVM switches introduce any input lag? I would like to have one to switch from my gayming rig to my work rig, but I'd rather not have a laggy mouse.


File: 00e1687522ec8d7⋯.png (56.71 KB, 725x515, 145:103, lenovo-laptop-thinkpad-t47….png)

File: a4aaaf6d9bfa6fa⋯.jpg (133.56 KB, 775x500, 31:20, aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cubGFwdG9wbW….jpg)

T470 or X270?

Going up to college and I need something to replace my seven year old memebook


File: d3451b04c9420e6⋯.png (38.78 KB, 654x611, 654:611, Build.png)

Looking to gather the parts for this on Black Friday. Given that this is my first build, I want to run it by you guys first. It'll be for gaming, primarily. I wanted to run Windows 7 as the OS (because I've heard it's better for gaming and it's not (((Windows 10))) ), but the compatibility checker is only giving me Windows 10 recommendations. Can I still install Win7 on this build? And again, just in case, is there anything I've royally fucked up on?



Is my computer setup alright? I'm new to all this and don't know if I made a great computer for under 900, or if I got trash that won't even work.



Will it play 1440p games at around 30FPS? That's what I was going for.



You should look for a monitor to include with your build.



Would the upgrade to a Ryzen 4 or higher make a significant difference in my everyday life?

Are there other cards in the Radeon RX series that would work significantly better?



Even if you use GTX 1060, you can go WAY cheaper. I was looking into those cards yesterday, and I found some for around 250.



I noticed the price actually went up on that card from yesterday for some reason. I'll look for a better one.


Already own a monitor. I dual screened my craptop for a bit for school purposes, and it can handle what I need it to handle.



system76 is memey. I heard that some anon got it fixed and technicians said its schematic was pretty shit


a4tech mk 650

less than $10 on certain stores

doesn't have mic but there's another one that support iShit.


t series imo



>Don't get DDR3.

>Idk. Look around online reviews.

>Wraith Stealth Cooler seems to work well. Look into reviews of it.


>It probably will.

>Stick with PcPartPicker, and just look at prices individually. That means find the shit through sites like Amazon individually after finding the parts on Newegg.

I'm not an expert, but it looks alright. I should suggest that you get a 1TB hard drive and 250 GB solid state drive though. It's cheaper and you get more storage.

You can also save some of your money with a 570.



Also: just use the SSD for your highest-end vidya, and use the hard drive for everything else.



I would recommend Ryzen 3 1300X, Ryzen 5 1600, or Ryzen 7 instead of GTX 1060 depending on your budget.



I'm new to this, but I predict Ryzen 5 1600 with a wraith stealth cooler seperately (or if you can't find it available without the wraith spire cooler, then get that, but it would be a bit pricey) would be your best bet, and get the Ryzen 7 if your motherboard can handle it.



I mean only get the Ryzen 7 if you're looking for top quality. And usually, higher numbers are better.



Those first three are CPUs and the GTX 1060 is a GPU, are they not? I have a Ryzen 5 1600 as my CPU in this build. I'm not sure what you're getting at here, pardon my confusion.



You're right. I meant the RX 580 or something similar to that.



Right, gotcha.

I had checked some benchmarks before picking the build though and it showed the GTX 1060 performed slightly better for the same price, which is why I chose it. Is the RX 580 actually going to work better given that I'll be using an AMD CPU?



Most likely.

Also, I think rx580 works a bit better, since it can handle 1440p gaming while I heard the gtx1060 doesn't support 1440p gaming.




Check this video out if you need more info.



Thanks dubs, I'll look into it.

Is there anyone now who can help me with the OS issue? I really don't want to install Windows 10.



Also, check these out.



And I think what you can do is see if somebody's selling Windows 7 with no activation key for cheap, then find an activation key for free online. Only punishment if Windows finds you using a fraudulent activation key is that they disable updates, but that's it, and updates are not that important if you have a good antivirus (you might not even need one) and are careful online.



I suggest not trying to pirate windows 7 though, since it might have rootkits. Get a real CD, then pirate the activation code.




How that would work is copying all the data from the hard drive and transferring it to your new hard drive or ssd. Then turn off the build and sell it for 5 bucks cheaper online, and change the activation key on your own computer to a pirated one. It's legal if you're not getting a direct refund from the seller. :^)



(The reason you'd have to change your key is that Windows doesn't support the same activation key on two computers.)








I have a connection who might be able to get me Windows 7 without hassle, possibly free because he works in tech. If that doesn't work I'll use one of these methods.



Scratch that plan. That might be Windows 7 32 bit. Try to get Windows 7 64 bit.

More info:




Dubs, check out this post too.


You can look for cheap builds that come pre-installed with 64 bit Windows 7, and look for windows 7 ultimate or professional if possible.



>Unlike Windows XP and Vista, failure to activate Windows 7 leaves you with an annoying, but somewhat usable system. According to a Microsoft developer blog post on "Microsoft Developer Network," if you don't choose to activate Windows 7 during installation, you will see an "Activate Windows Online Now" message in the system tray. If you don't activate then, you will see and "Activate Now" message every day from day four through day 27. Until day 30, you will get the "Activate Now" message every four hours until day 30. After day 30, you will get the "Activate Now" message every hour, along with a notice that your Windows version is not genuine whenever you launch the Control Panel. In addition, Windows 7 does not perform any system updates after the grace period. Finally, Windows will automatically turn your screen background image to black every hour – even after you change it back to your preference. This behavior continues until you successfully activate Windows 7.



You could also try a Linux distro (Fedora, Ubuntu, etc) with Wine first, and see if that meets your standards.



This is my first build, so honestly, I'd have no idea what I'm doing with Linux. Honestly, the more I talk to people who know what they're doing, the more I feel like I didn't do enough research going into this




I'm not a fan of the whole datamining thing though. Am I just being overly paranoid?




No, but free is free, and if you figure out how to disable certain servers, then the datamining should go away.



Windows 8.1 and start8 should be your best bet.

They have cheaper licenses too I believe.


>wanting to upgrade to ryzen from my shitty fx processor

>need new motherboard

>picked a new mobo

>need new RAM

>mfw RAM is more expensive then my CPU

Any good alternative fast DDR4 RAM?



>Wraith Stealth Cooler seems to work well. Look into reviews of it.

Is that compatible with the 1800X? I can only find it bundled with Ryzen 3/5 lines, and the one vendor on Amazon with the Wraith Stealth available standalone is sold out.

>Stick with PcPartPicker, and just look at prices individually. That means find the shit through sites like Amazon individually after finding the parts on Newegg.

Yeah, that's what I've been doing. It looks like some prices have been updated, and the reason the Samsung SSD wasn't updated was because the Amazon page for the drive wasn't in the PCPartPicker list of vendors. I think the issues have passed.

>I'm not an expert, but it looks alright. I should suggest that you get a 1TB hard drive and 250 GB solid state drive though. It's cheaper and you get more storage.

I'm so sick of defragging though. Takes hours on my 750GB 7200 RPM HDD. Could you recommend a good, fast defragger for Windows? I'm currently using UltraDefrag because Defraggler doesn't have a boot mode to defrag system files (unless it does now? that was a few years ago).

>You can also save some of your money with a 570.

I don't think it will resell as well as the 580, both because the 580 is top of its line, and because the 580 seems significantly better than the 570, which is ranked behind even the GTX "3.5GB" 970 on a bunch of benchmarks when I was researching. Also, they seem to be roughly the same price: the PowerColor 570 4GB is literally the same price as the XFX 580 4GB, and the XFX 580 8GB is only $40 more.


I would probably also use the SSD for the Windows install itself, as well as important apps like [whatever browser I end up using] and Foobar2000/VLC.

Unrelated question: is there any DDR4 RAM manufacturer that has a <20% RMA rate according to Newegg reviews? Should I be concerned about an RMA rate that high? The RAM manufacturer I had in my previous build had a 50% (!) RMA rate from the Newegg reviews, and other manufacturers at the $130-$150 price point like G.Skill and PNY seem to have 20% RMA rates for all their models. Corsair doesn't look much better. Is this an actual concern, or is this just a case of "people who have had a bad experience are more likely to complain than people who didn't"?



Don't be a jew - just get good ram, or wait until a sale.


Wraith Stealth Cooler and Spire cooler are pretty much the same thing.

Add custom parts for parts you find online.

Try a 2TB hard drive with either a 100gb SSD or a 200gb SSD (I forget the specific SSD sizes) since it's still cheaper than a 1TB SSD. And idk about defragmentation programs.

580 is your best option, and I realized that with research of my own. Getting mine for 290.

Use the SSD for your highest-power stuff, like vidya on higher ends, Photoshop, etc.

RMA rate doesn't seem to matter much, since I have never heard anything about it in any type of video or website, but it doesn't hurt to get a higher rate if you can afford it. If not, don't risk it. You could research the RMA rate to see if it matters though. And if you want a higher rate, expect to pay more money. See if you can fiddle with the partpicker settings to get it to work.



Also: if you're getting Ryzen, you should start with the Ryzen 5 1600, or Ryzen 3 1300X if playing games like Crysis 3 at 1440p on ultra settings at about 40FPS doesn't sound like what you want to do.



I just bought one today since it was quite a bit cheaper than usual on Amazon.

Should I return it /tech/?

I didn't realize the mobos are $400+ dollars and 128GB of ECC RAM will set me back another 1.5k.

On the other hand, it would be perfect for running something like Qubes, which is what I was originally thinking of doing (or something similar with just Xen or KVM).


Hey guys, ultra-poorfag here.

I have a hard budget of $600 (and even that's pushing it) to build a rig that can play most games (not including 80 dollar AAA "muh grafix" titles with $2k in DLC) around at least 30fps and i this is what i came up with. It'd be nice if i could stream some games in at least 720p while playing, just for fun.


I don't know a whole ton about building computers, so i'm hoping for a little advice in optimizing this build and maybe getting the price down without cutting power too much, if at all. Any warnings about shit or unreliable parts would be a big help.



Also, my monitor is 1080p but i don't mind downscaling to 720 or lower if i have to, since that's what i do to play most games at more than 10fps currently.

I would probably be using an old 4:3 monitor as a second monitor for browsing at the same time.


Bumping my previous unanswered questions:

>Any anecdotes/data on Mushkin products? Benchmarks seem nice for successful builds on userbenchmark, but the sample size is abysmally small and I don't know reliability numbers.

>What's a reliable PSU manufacturer? Also, is a single-rail or multi-rail setup better?

>Is there a better Windows defragger than UltraDefrag that can get good results quickly, and has a boot mode and/or the ability to defrag system files?

>Is there any DDR4 RAM manufacturer that has a <20% RMA rate according to Newegg reviews? Should I be concerned about an RMA rate that high, or is this just a case of "people who have had a bad experience are more likely to complain than people who didn't"?


>Wraith Stealth Cooler and Spire cooler are pretty much the same thing.

I'll take a look at it, thanks.

>it doesn't hurt to get a higher rate if you can afford it.


RMA = returning under warranty because the part was bricked. Lower is better because I don't trust online returns to go smoothly.



Don't buy 16GB ram, start with 8 or even 4 just to get off and running when on a tight budget

It is worth it to put the OS on a SSD even a small one. I would get a ~240GB to start and add a TB or two later. OR you can get a cheap drive to start and add an ssd later. You can probably scrap an old laptop or desktop hard drive and reformat it for extra storage. 1050ti is really going to limit you. This is something to think about at least.




I watched a video of someone playing GTA V at 1080p on a ryzen 3 and a 1050ti, which is far beyond anything i could dream of at the moment.

I'm running an i5 5200 (probaby degraded to hell) and 6 gigs of ram with no graphics card right now, and i can just barely run skyrim at 720p on the lowest settings.

I have a 750gb, 2tb and brand new 4tb external that i can use for storage, so that's not a real issue.

I was worried about ram because of how many piece of shit poorly optimized nipponese console ports keep requiring 12-16 gigs, and 16 is supposed to be the new standard, but if it's an issue i guess i can just buy another stick.

Anyways, thank you a lot, anon. That's quite a bit cheaper.



As someone suggested, i bumped the 1050ti up to a 1060 3gb.


is a X220 Thinkpad with 2nd gen i5, 8GB ram sufficient for using R? I'm planning to study chemical engineering, so I may need to use other opensource modeling software. Anyone have experience running?



<PSU brands

EVGA or Corsair are both great



if you're in the market to get 128GB of ram and use it it's all up to you. I'm sure you'd be fine on one of the higher end non-threadripper ryzens if you don't mind waiting a bit longer compared to the crazy chips.


File: c77c408984435b4⋯.png (121.33 KB, 1366x768, 683:384, ClipboardImage.png)


I still haven't found an aftermarket reseller for either the Wraith Stealth or Spire coolers, so I've given up and decided to use a Cooler Master MasterAir Pro 4 instead.


Thanks, I found something.

Alright, rate my build round 2. The PSU is a bit overkill for this build, but I plan to upgrade to Navi next year as long as miners don't fuck up availability. My main concern is the CPU cooler. Is it small enough to fit on the motherboard and in the case?

The last thing I need to tackle is peripherals. I don't know jack shit about monitors, keyboards, or mice, so I'm going to leave that for tomorrow.



>Seagate 3TB

<In 2016, Seagate faced a class action over the failure rates of its ST3000DM001 3 TB drives. Law firm Hagens Berman filed the lawsuit on 1 February in the United States District Court for the Northern District of California, and primarily cited reliability data provided by Backblaze. The lawsuit also pointed to user reviews of the hard disk drive on Newegg, which totaled more than 700 reviews with 2 or fewer stars

I'm not here to shill for any particular hard drive company, but I would dissuade you from getting any Seagate hard drive, not just for the fact that they been sued in a class-action, but also from my very unscientific ancedotal experience of having to pull Seagate out of dead computers for the people in my life.


Hie, I want to buy a usb hub, but my god, I'm drown in bullshit made for macbook and laptops...

I want something reliable, not some shitty little hub used by some startuppers in starbuck.



I'm ready to buy on aliexpress. I don't know if I should trust them though. Even though everything is made in chinks city.


Looking for the best available monitor for long hours of reading text (pdf, doc). Wat buy?



I haven't yet thought of a use case for 128GB.

Any ideas /tech/?



>I'm not here to shill for any particular hard drive company, but I would dissuade you from getting any Seagate hard drive

I read about that, but the part I had listed is the DM008, which is a redesign of the old DM001s that appears to have a much lower failure rate according to my research. I'm also a bit sketchy on Seagate, but I'm not sure what to replace it with because most hard drive reviews are similar unless I shill out another $100. Any suggestions?


Sort of related but not really, is there a such thing as an e-paper/black-and-white monitor?



Volatile drives: https://www.softperfect.com/products/ramdisk/

Incredibly useful for speed if you don't reboot your computer often.



Hmm, I should probably buy a UPS if I was going to go that route then.



Sun Microsystems IPS monitors are pretty cheap and I'm still using my x7200a for terminal output and text


Toshiba have far lower failure rates at the same price point


File: 6742062961f1966⋯.png (118.53 KB, 300x370, 30:37, 6742062961f1966986b2b915bb….png)

Skipped black Friday because I'm patient and not impulsive, when (what month) does the Volta lineup and Ryzen+ hardware come out next year? Give me a rough ETA. I'm okay with waiting 4-6 more months for it.


DDR5 when



>Toshiba have far lower failure rates at the same price point

Upon doing further research, I disagree. This drive https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149633 seems as bad as the DM008 reviews, and this drive https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149408 is significantly worse. Further, it appears that they have the Jewiest of Jewish warranty policies and a lot of people aren't being fully recompensed for drives that brick in the warranty window.

God, I just want a hard drive that won't fail. Why the fuck is that so hard to find? I've gone through like 20 models in PCPartPicker and all of them have 20% RMA rates minimum. It's fucking crazy. I thought I was going to start looking for monitors, but I guess not.


New releases normally happen over the summer, typically in July or August.



That's fine, barely reaches the mark.

Thank you anon.



That's why you back your shit up online.

inb4 RAID



>>828055 (checked)

>That's why you back your shit up online.

I suppose you're right. I'll buy the Seagates then, they seem better than the rest of the options I can find.


I've bought everything except the cooler, CPU, and hard disk, because the sales were about to expire. Can someone tell me if this cooler comes with an AM4 bracket? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5K6DKW/ I'm getting multiple conflicting reports from reviews.




check out anker.


Thoughts on Lenovo ThinkPad P51s? Is it worth a price of $975? Also want to buy an SSD to replace the HDD, will that be too much of a pain in the ass?



Depends on what you are going to use it for. A grand for a laptop without a SSD sounds suspect, because now you are well over a grand when you replace the hdd.


File: ef67d861809e30f⋯.jpg (66.89 KB, 799x599, 799:599, 85390454.jpg)

I'm taking my digital hoarding to the next level and I'm really interested in getting an 8TB external hard drive. I plan on going with Western Digital (Seagate's drives have fucked me on numberous occasions and I've heard that WD's best drives happen to be their external ones). My questions are as follows:

Are there any heightened risks of hard drive failure as you grow larger in space? As in, 2TB drives might have a significantly lower failure rate than 8TB drives? If anyone has any resources showing failure rates of high capacity external hard drives or are knowledgeable on the subject I would appreciate some input. I also plan on encrypting it with veracrypt or LUKS, are there any known issues with encrypting very large drives?

online storage is too expensive for the amount of data I have and I can't afford to delete it all.


File: f2f490840a965ee⋯.png (300.87 KB, 1135x898, 1135:898, ClipboardImage.png)

What the heck should I be looking for in a monitor? I'll be primarily using it for gaming and surfing the web. FreeSync is obvious, but should I get an IPS monitor? Should I be going 1440p144Hz or 4K60Hz? Does LED vs LCD matter? Is there anything else I'm missing?


So the sale on the 1800X expired, and I don't feel like it's worth $340 from SuperBiiz plus the cooler price. Should I just get the 1700 with the stock cooler for $270? Or should I go with the 1700X without it, which is only $10 more (final price with fan: $310)?


>If anyone has any resources showing failure rates

I recommend checking out the Backblaze blog, they have basically the only statistics I've ever seen. Pic related is from https://www.backblaze.com/blog/hard-drive-benchmark-stats-2016/ (note: the 8TB initial spike was due to low sample size)


Looking for dumbphone suggestions.

Obvious main requirements - long battery life with removable battery, physical buttons for everything from navigation to text input, can display and preferably type characters of any European language.

It's meant to be a reliable work phone for calls and texts only. Ideally it doesn't care much about either very cold or very hot temperatures, being dropped every once in a while and even taking short swims in puddles.

If it ends up costing as much as an average smartphone i'd rather buy a box of cheap expendable dumbphones.



there is a dedicated tp thread. nevertheless i paid for mine about $200 aud. keep some money around for ricing though.



they compress the storage



i'd recommend a nexus 4 or 5 for figuring out ricing, since you're willing to put up with google spyware. the network card on them is shit though because you cant fingerblast wpa1 because the drivers block it.



get an x200, faster and lighter.

cmos is fine

battery is replacable

fuck off you weeb



get your jewish tendrils off that gorgeous aryan war bride




these have a togglable fn key to switch to a numpad on the right side of the keyboard. the trackpoint makes it awesome for in bed bc you dont have to worry about a mouse clunking about.


Is mining a meme? I found a deal for 2 antminer d3 19ghz 1600w for 2k (maybe talk down) is it worth it?


Are zyxel vpn firewall routers worth the price or is asus/netgear better?


What are the best over the ear noise cancelling headphones on the market? I used to have a pair of Bose QuietComfort's but their new models seem to be enhanced with Google botnet. I specifically want these for air travel, not for heavy usage (I have the HD 598 for regular listening).


File: 6121f060c850786⋯.png (303.95 KB, 842x429, 842:429, Screenshot from 2017-11-27….png)

I'd like to make on of these:


The most important component (the touch panel) is also the one thing I'm having a hard time finding.



Says it's compatible with raspberry pi but I'd prefer arduino and I'm not positive if it would be compatible. I also don't want to wait at least 3 fucking weeks for it to come in.

Does anyone with more specialized knowledge in this field know where I can get one at a better deal/sooner/that you know would be arduino compatible? Resistive or capacitative doesn't really matter, though resistive would probably be better suited for the application. Bigger is better (with reasonable limits) and I don't really care about the sensing resolution.



Try aliexpress, basically chinese amazon.



I hear the Volta was further delayed, is that true?



There were rumors that it was slated for a September 2017 release date, but they proved to be unfounded. Currently speculation is they're planning to release in the first half of 2018, but NVIDIA still haven't published a hard number yet.


File: 99f9ac613c74692⋯.jpg (1.13 MB, 4409x2480, 4409:2480, ba9f9a95f82af607089d45a265….jpg)

What are my options if I want a tablet running GNU/Linux for simple tasks. I want something that can run Kontact for my scheduling, reading the news with my morning coffee, displaying recipes while I'm cooking, streaming media off my private server, reading hentai etc. I'd rather not spend a lot for this since I'm not going to be taking it out of the home.Maybe by $300. I'm having a creeping feeling that the only good option would be a Microsoft Surface which my autism won't accept.


Just bought a ThinkPad P51s. 16GB RAM, 500 SSD. $1000. Will I suffer from any buyer's remorse?



Seems like the normal price for that laptop. you made a good investment. It will last you a long time.



Thanks. I'm always second guessing big purchases. So your reassurance is great.



maybe get an older model?


Anons, I have a budget of 400$ and I want to build a new PC. I always heard faggots saying you can build a decent PC with 300$ so I might as well give it a try, but I don't even know where to start, so considering that, I came to ask for some help. I have to buy everything from scratch, and my main focus is a good graphic card and, of course, without bottle necks. Any recommendations?



Unless your editing 4k content, 1440p 144hz is the way to go, high refesh rate is much more noticable than high dpi,

especially on screens smaller than 30" (I'd say 30" is the minimum size for a 4k to take advantage of the extra pixels,

32" is ideal.), at screen sizes smaller than this 4k and 1440p look almost identical at arms length.

LED and LCD are the same thing, the former is simply refering the type of backlight (all monitors made in the past 7 years have LED backlights), while the latter refers to the technology used to display the pixels (liquid crystal display).

IPS makes a huge difference compared to TN panels, colors look much more vibrant on IPS and they have a much better contrast ratio. TN panels look like they have a grey film over them compared to IPS, even the best of TN panels with above 900:1 contrast ratio still misrepresent many colors as much more yellow or red in tint, I highly recommend IPS unless your are on a strict budget.

In terms of backlights the thing you need to look out for is whether the backlight is direct current (flicker-free) or pwm, pwm backlights are much more straining on the eyes and aren't as bright, Samsung monitors are the only mainsteam monitor brand that puts pwm backlights into their monitors.

Also never trust any monitor specs, most of the time they are lies. For example, many monitors advertise as one millisecond response time, while in reality the best TN panels only have a 2-3ms response time PLUS a couple of milliseconds of input lag from the display controller. Also, this response time value is only for the very top of the screen, because LCDs scan the image onto the display from top to bottom, the response time for the bottom of the panel is dependent on the refresh rate. For example, a monitor has a 2ms response time and refreshes at 60hz, the response time for the bottom of the panel is

2ms + 1/60 of a second, the time it takes for the display to scan, so the response time of the bottom of the screen is in reality 18.67ms. If that monitor refreshed in 1/144 of a second, 144hz or 6.94ms, the response time for the bottom of the display is only 8.94ms.

Another shit bullfuck monitor manufacturers lie out of their ass is contrast ratios, ever notice how all monitor manufacturers advertise 1000:1 contrast ratio, its a big fucking lie for both IPS and TN. The best of TN panels only do ~950:1 contrast ratio, while most TN panels do less than 900:1. While most IPS panels actually have a higher contrast ratio than advertised, around ~1050-1100:1 contrast ratio. Now this is refering to static contrast ratio, where the backlight stays the same brightest throughout the scene, many monitors also have a dynamic contrast ratio where the monitor will detect dark scenes and lower the display backlight to increase contrast, however this only increases contrast some of the time, and many times it will remain at the static contrast ratio so disregard the dynamic contrast value.

How to get real monitor specs? The best place is to look at the review of the monitor from a reputable monitor review site like tftcentral or pcmonitors.info who have all the tools to measure the actual specifications of the monitor. The level1techs youtube channel also does good monitor reviews from time to time, as does the lims cave channel.

I need to get a FUCKING LIFE



If your going for a budget under $800, used parts are the way to go. I could give you some pointers if you tell me:

-Are you going to be using Linux, Windows, or PCI passthrough (look this up its cool shit)

-Does this budget include peripherals such as Monitor and Keyboard + Mouse?

-What are you going to be using the system for?



Tablets are for gays, get a X series thinkpad for under $200 and be happy.


Yes, my 500 series thinkpad broke in only 3 months from a drop. New thinkpads are gook ass, disgusting and flimsy.


ASIC mining is not a meme because it is much more efficient and is not a meme, especially bitcoin which is continuously rising in price. GPU mining on the other hand is retarded.



Some tips on your build:

-Seasonic power supplies are very high quality and the 850W unit is $30 cheaper than that corsair shit

-The define S is a shit case design because of the closed off front, it will stiffle the airflow of the front fans, look for something with a mesh front like the meshify C

-That B350 board is way to cheap to even run the ryzen 1800x safely, the power phases on B350 is way to weak to handle a 1800x at full load or overclocked. Instead get one of the entry level asus X370 boards or look at reviews for some other X370 board.

-Seagate are ass suckers who cant even build a pile of sticks, stick with HGST


Thanks for the information, guys, but I already bought all this stuff. Most of it's from Newegg though, which has a no-questions-asked return policy for the holidays on most of the stuff, so I can probably deal with it.


I'm using this Nixeus panel (27" 1440p 144Hz IPS 4ms), which doesn't have reviews on either website you suggested: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0ZW5F71608

I've read good things about it online, but is there anything else you can tell me about it?

>I need to get a FUCKING LIFE

I know that feel.



I looked it up on PCPartPicker, and the cheapest one is only $10 cheaper and isn't platinum rated. I only paid $100 for the Corsair one which was recommended by a different anon. Probably not going to swap it out unless it's DOA.

>The define S is a shit case design

The Meshify C is an extra 10 bucks compared to the Define S, but I can see how airflow could be a concern. My main problem with it, though, is that it has a glass side panel, and I want this computer to be easy to transport, which requires not having a side glass panel. Is there a version of the Meshify without a glass side panel? I can't seem to find one.

>That B350 board is way to cheap to even run the ryzen 1800x safely

I ended up buying the 1700 with the stock cooler because the 1800X sale ended. I've heard they're basically binned 1800X's so I'm probably not going to have an issue with it, and from what I've seen the included stock cooler and thermal paste is more than sufficient. As for power concerns, there are like 10 builds on PCPartPicker using Ryzen 7 CPUs with that board. I think you're being paranoid.

>Seagate are ass suckers who cant even build a pile of sticks, stick with HGST

I kind agree wrt Seagate, but the HGST reviews I saw weren't more favorable than theirs, and most vendors were refurbishers or resellers who would claim the drive was "new" when it was 4-5 years old and used. I ended up buying a WD Red NAS 4TB on sale from Amazon for $165 plus tax, I think it was a good deal.

Thanks again for your advice.



The B350 should be fine to run a 1700, but its really pushing it.

If you want to learn more here's a great vid:


As for the monitor, it looks like its the exact same au optronics panel thats in all the 1440p 144hz IPS displays (except samsung but their quantum dot technology can go die in fire), so its probably on par with the asus mg279q in terms of quality, so its quite good (100% sRGB). As long as their are no defects in the monitor, the only thing I see wrong with the monitor is that the stand looks ugly as sin, replace it with a used asus or acer vesa stand or a monitor arm if you need easy adjustment.



Oh and one more thing, look up a color calibration profile for you monitor and apply it, it will give a nice boost in color vibrancy and is great when working with color sensitive content (video, photo).



In the vid he says that the B350 I chose was the only model that was any good for a budget build below $120, and that's because one motherboard was on sale and was normally $150. I think I'll be OK.

>the stand looks ugly as sin

It's not a sexy super-flat bezelless display, but it looks passable.


>color calibration profile

I'll look into it, thanks. Would it be provided by the manufacturer or a third party?



Okay so its not a meme, is 2 d3 antminers for 2k worth it or am i paying too much?



Even though ASIC mining is reasonably profitable, just investing in bitcoin will result in the same amount of profit.



Its a third party, users who have the color calibration tools for the monitor usually upload their calibration profile so over users dont have to dish out cash for a spyder calibrator. TFT central has an extensive index of user submitted calibration profiles.



so 2k in bitcoin stock is just as profitable as 2 antminers?



>TFT central has an extensive index of user submitted calibration profiles.

Searching their site, I only found one profile for a Nixeus monitor, and it's not the one that I bought: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/icc_profiles.htm

Is there another panel that's equivalent to this one on that list? Or do you know where I can find an ICC profile for this monitor? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071G6MYMW/


Is there any way to get shit that is


>reliable, won't give me cancer

>won't take months to ship from china

SATA cables are around $1.20 each when purchased in bundles on Amazon. I know these things cost like a nickel to make, and sure enough there are SATA cables for like 20 cents a piece on Newegg, but they look like chink shit and have state of California cancerous material warnings on their descriptions.

I don't even care about the $5 I'm blowing, I just hate feeling like I'm getting fucked paying some faggot's margin on copper wire.



Everything has that shitty california cancer causing warning


https://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD6300WMHKBOX-FX-6300-6-Core-Processor/dp/B009O7YORK/ - 74.99 (79.99)

https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GA-970A-DS3P-FX-6Gbps-Motherboard/dp/B074QCKSYZ/ - 58.99 (66.99)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RORBQNW - 49.99

Top to bottom:

CPU + fan



Already have RAM (DDR3) and a power supply + hard drives. This seem good /tech/?



Also it totals ~197 (the numbers in parenthesis)



You might want to consider upgrading your RAM to DDR4 if you have the money for it (which will need a different mobo), but considering how expensive it is right now I can understand if you pass on that. If you're not planning on replacing your RAM or upgrading the rest of your machine for 3 years, you should have good bang for your buck. What video card are you using?




Then you'll just have to search for it, "Nixeus NX-EDG27 ICC profile"



its a nvidia 610 GT

but i can save up for another one tbh

also i don't mind not having DDR4 for now


So my Threadripper 1950x arrived, and I looked into motherboards and ram today, and the prices are all ridiculous.

The x399 motherboards prices seem to have always been ridiculous, but the ram prices seem to be a possible price hike.

Does anybody here have any knowledge about whether ram prices are unusually high right now (particularly 3200-3600 MHz, C14-C16 latency)?

Also, should I go for 64 GB high performance or 128 GB ECC unbuffered? At what ram sizes do errors start to cause trouble?

I will be using VMs for both work (scientific computation) and gaming maybe.

I was about to buy an Asus Prime X399-A because it is the cheapest mobo and lacks bluetooth and wireless, which is a plus IMO, but Asus claimed it won't allow ECC to work (unregistered) even though it should work for all Ryzen processors. I might still buy it if I decide to forgo ECC.

The best unregistered ECC dims are from Kingston and Crucial, and are 2400 MHz, C17, 16 GB modules.

For performance non-ECC, I'm considering 3200 MHz, C14 G.Skill Ripjaws.



My 3rd option is just returning the Fartripper.



>nvidia 610 GT

Jesus, I'm so sorry. How painful is it? That seems worse than my current Intel 4000 integrated graphics.


>Does anybody here have any knowledge about whether ram prices are unusually high right now (particularly 3200-3600 MHz, C14-C16 latency)?

All RAM prices are high because there's currently a RAM shortage. Some people believe the three manufacturers are colluding to raise prices.


You probably should imo, parts for Threadripper boards are hella expensive, especially RAM. If not, see if prices drop over the holidays.



How long can one hold on to something before they can no longer return it w.r.t. Amazon?

Also, does this apply if Amazon was just the middleman?



Hell if I know, see if you can find a warranty/return policy on the product page. If you can't, their customer support chat is pretty good.



>How painful is it?

p bad tbh fam


What are the differences I should care about between AMD CPUs and Intel CPUs? aside from specs I can read on the product page or box, naturally.

For example, With GPUs I know Nvidia has better drivers on Linux than AMD, are Intel and AMD CPUs roughly the same or does one have an advantage over the other on Linux?

Asking because I'm planning on building a new computer at some point in the future.

Had to delete this post twice because I kept fucking up with typos and now I triggered the flood detection fuck.


File: f079083d396f09b⋯.gif (3.17 MB, 300x325, 12:13, hypnoticlongcat.gif)

I'm thinking about looking to pick up a single board computer over the Christmas season to use as for a simple media server, a retro gaming station, or maybe even as a seed box. Really general use sorts of thing. Which one should I pick up? Should I just get a raspberry pi, or should I maybe pick up an Odroid or Beaglebone of some sort?



Nvidias drivers are not really better anymore,they are proprietary and they are being assholes by using their special snowflake buffers instead of the commonly agreed upon which is why xwaylamd does not work with the closed nvidia drivers (nouveau works). They are just their windows drivers with a compatability layer. AMD CPUs do not come with integrated graphics, all non-server Intel ones do.






I assume you mean the banana pi? What makes it better?



cheaper than a pi and has great Linux support thanks to the sunxi project (assuming they still use a20 cpu), requires no blobs



neat, thanks. I'll look into picking one up once I find a good reseller and model for what I need



Intel has better per-core performance but the gap is pretty small now. They are generally the better choice for gayman because of this.

Intel generally has better chipsets, since they do their own ethernet and wifi controllers, though amusingly some AMD motherboards have Intel ethernet chipsets.

And if you plan to use integrated graphics instead of a GPU, AMD does not offer integrated graphics on their current desktop parts, which is both a minus (have to buy GPU even if integrated was good enough for you) and a plus (not wasting space on the chip that could have been used for more cores and cache).

AMD has better multithreaded performance per dollar on account of having more cores at comparable price points. For instance, you can get an 8 core/16 thread AMD Ryzen 7 for a little less than a 4 core/8 thread Intel Kaby Lake i7. So if you're doing something that can make use of those cores, like editing video or compiling giant C++ programs or being an ebin Twitch streamer, you should be looking at Ryzen or Threadripper (AMD's "workstation" CPUs made of two interconnected Ryzen dies).

Also AMD has more on-CPU PCIe lanes (16 vs 24, 64 on Threadripper CPUs) which you can use for very fast access to NVMe SSDs, multiple GPUs, etc. which makes them no brainers for workstations and HPC right now.

As if that isn't enough, AMD actually beats Intel on performance per watt at the moment. They also all support ECC with compatible motherboards, whereas this is an Xeon-only deal with Intel.

Intel responded with Coffee Lake which increased the core count of all CPUs by 2, which closes the gap a bit, but it is essentially impossible to buy these CPUs at the moment as the availability is not there, and you can't upgrade from a Skylake or Kabylake motherboard (not a problem for you but it was a shit move). Meanwhile AMD is rumored to be increasing core count even further next year to a max of 12 core/24 thread per Ryzen chip, and doing so with a backward compatible motherboard socket, so things are only looking up in AMD camp.

The technical detail of this is that Ryzen CPUs are built around a "core complex" of 4 cores/8 threads that is copy pasted twice onto one CPU die for a total of 8 cores/16 threads, with some cores disabled on cheaper chips. The Threadripper and Epyc CPUs use 2 or 4 dies, identical to the single one used in Ryzen CPUs, connected together on the same chip package. This lets AMD use economy of scale (since all of their desktop/workstation/server CPUs are made from the same die) to provide way more cores per $ at all price points. The rumor is that AMD will be increasing that to 6 cores/12 threads per core complex next year, leaving Ryzen chips with a max of 12 cores/24 threads.

tl;dr if you are using pretty much any desktop i5 from the past generations, it is only really worth upgrading (to EITHER AMD or Intel) if you buy a chip with more cores, and run software that can make use of them. If so, then either splurge on a Ryzen with lots of cores, wait a few months for AMD to announce the Ryzen CPUs with even moar corez, or buy a cheap ($100 on Newegg right now) quad core to hold you over until then.


Any headphone fags here? I've been using the DT770 for a shitload now ( 3 years i thik, a couple of hours a day) and I want to know are the pads washable? Will it damage the material, and will i actually be able to clean the 3 year old sweat and dirt from them?



Alright, so the Define S case came in. It's nice, I like it well enough, but it's way too big.

Can someone recommend a good Micro-ATX case? The RX 580 I bought is 270mm long, but I'd like something around 300-330mm max GPU length so I have space to upgrade in the future. Beyond that, the only things I require are no side windows, dust filters on air intakes, no integrated PSU, and USB 3.1 and audio on the front panel. Additional USB 2.0 ports are a bonus.



fdisk starts to the 2048 sector.

I just heard about this HDD alignment problem.

I then don't need to do anything? It's only if you make the partition start at the 63th sector?



/tech/, got any recommendations for decent quality office chairs at an affordable price?


Anybody got any suggestions for a sturdy wireless mouse? Doesn't need to be anything too fancy, just reliable with at least a decent battery life.


>want to upgrade PC for Christmas

>only CPU upgrade option (without buying a new PC) is to 4790k

>no one sells them new (at a reasonable price) anymore

shit, I could have sworn its predecessors were available for longer than a couple years

am I stuck just buying on craigslist/ebay? if so, is there a way I can tell how heavily it was used?




File: ecc0306910fb818⋯.jpg (37.18 KB, 800x800, 1:1, s-l1600.jpg)

I want to guy an 8 PC USB KVM switch with an accessible front. I was looking at pic related, but the max res it supports is 1920x1440, when my graphics monitor is 2048x1536. What can I get that meets my specifications? I can deal with a 4PC switch if I can't find anything else.



After doing some research, I'm looking at the Define Mini C. It seems good enough, but it appears it has a max PSU size of 175mm and my PSU is 180. Is it possible there's an HDD/ODD cage I can remove to gain some space, or would I be attempting to fit a 180mm peg in a 175mm hole?



Yeah you're stuck buying used. No, there's not really any way to tell.


Where is the second-hand market besides eBay, Craigslist, and those trendy wannabe Craigslist apps?


File: a9392742f566e3e⋯.png (12.79 KB, 500x250, 2:1, Oekaki.png)

I'm tired of mice that have the design on the left. I want an old style mouse like the right, only brand new if possible. Is there a specific search term to help me find them, or are they not even being made anymore? I don't want to sort through a shit load of ergonomic mice, I want to quickly search through ones that are made like this and pick the one I want.

This "ergonomic" shit actually hurts my hands, I don't understand. Who the fuck are these shitty mice meant to be helping? I don't even have big hands.



Get a Microsoft Wheel Mouse


I got a mouse like that from Dell a decade ago.




I'm asking if there's a name for it, not asking for specific brands. I know there's Dell and some older Microsoft shit, the type of mouse is just hard to search for when you can filter for "Ergonomic mice" or "Has a wheel" with options for optical or laser but you can't filter for something like "Traditional round non-ergonomic mice." I tried ambidextrous but it's the same ergonomic shit, only symmetrical.


Christmas is coming up and my parents have offered to get me a laptop as a present.

I'd like to be able to play some games on it (maybe some New Vegas, maximum), but I'm not really planning on doing anything too demanding with it. What laptops should I be looking at?


File: e3745d8be1572a1⋯.png (1.17 MB, 2000x2000, 1:1, 1451360389360-1.png)

Zowie FK1+ or a Microsoft Wheel, it comes down between these two and I didn't get to try a Wheel.



I was looking for something similar and never found it. The cheap switchers were VGA only, the HDMI ones were expensive and none had good reviews. Ended up settling with a USB switcher and switching monitor inputs manually.


File: ea5dbfedeb52e99⋯.jpg (731.71 KB, 1500x1000, 3:2, comfy11.jpg)

I'm looking to get a *lot* of cheap SCSI/SAS hard drives. This is meant to be a hobby project, and much more of a quantity instead of German-esque Quality kind of thing.

Any suggestions/help?



I need to buy an iPhone. I'm currently torn between 7+ and 8+. The phone will be connected to a bluetooth device at all times, so extra battery life is essential. The difference between the phones is around $100 here, so I'm paying extra for a marginally faster processor and wireless charging, which I won't use. Will the 8+ hold it's value better than 7+? I'm planning to sell it after few years.



>The cheap switchers were VGA only

I want a VGA switch, but for some reason they limit resolution instead of just acting like a fucking pass-through.


Thinking of getting a new keyboard for my desktop for Christmas. I do a lot of programming/gaming, but I'm not sure what makes a gaming keyboard special. My priority is general purpose. (I don't know anything about mechanical keyboards, so I'm not sure if I should bother with one or not, or what switch I would even look for.) I just want media keys and/or a sleep button if possible. My current one I've had for almost 10 years has it and I've gotten used to the convenience.






>or what switch I would even look for.

The most popular is mx blues, but you can hear what they each sound like on jewtube and there's even sample kits that let you try them individually. (make sure it comes with a keycap if you get one, because if you just push the bare stem it feels and sounds different) I have an older Das with blues currently and it's way better than a membrane but I might eventually get one with another switch. or build one with a teensy++ so i can make the perfect snowflake layout and never have to worry about rebinding capslock in software There's also a shitton of information on the deskthority wiki and forums, an old keyboard forum called geekhack, and the mechanicalkeyboards subreddit at least they have an irc so you can ask questions without an account



I'm also looking for new wired headphones. My current cable is bent and now certain volume levels are really static-y. I saved a recommendation chart a few months back, but I can't find it. I hate the fold-down mics on headsets which is why I'd rather have a separate mic, but I can deal with a detachable one if the price is reasonable.


I implied I wasn't looking for a gaming keyboard because I don't know of any technical or performance differences outside of marketing and buzzwords.



>I implied I wasn't looking for a gaming keyboard because I don't know of any technical or performance differences outside of marketing and buzzwords

For the most part, there aren't any. You probably don't want the switch too heavy (how hard you have to press it) if you're pressing them very fast like in vidya and you don't want too much reset time (so, the time it takes for the switch to go back up far enough for you to press it again) if you're repeatedly pressing the same key quickly, but with Cherry MX switches you probably won't get enough of either for it to make a difference.


Could some of you guys throw out a list of some mechanical keyboards that I should look into buying. It has to be cheap- it's a fucking lump of plastic and springs, but I want good quality too.

I'll be using it for shitposting and gayming so RGB lighting counts as a bonus.


redpill me on IP68 waterproof rugged laptops/tablets , milspec or non



Get a T420 or X220 with a expresscard eGPU adapter so you can plug in a gpu when you need muh gaymes. If you want a good all in one solution take a look at Dell's new AMD laptops with dedotated gwaphics.



If you want something cheap just get one of the new chinese keyboards with cherry mx clones, like the plugable or ajazz, they have better quality than the original cherry mx key switches while costing a fraction as much ($40-$50). All those gaymur keyboards are a complete scam since cherry MX keys have shit quality, worse than many rubber dome keyboards, because they have no tactile feedback whatsoever. This is very shit for typing but if you are just a mindless gaymur brainlet its acceptable.

If you want a cheap keyboard that's excellent for typing get a BTC 5149 (or its 75% counterpart the siig minitouch plus), which is a dome with slider keyboard which is very quiet, and pretty much as good as a topre switch while costing significantly less, a used BTC 5149 usually goes for less than 40$. I recommend to get a keycap puller to so you can take off the caps without damaging the board and clean it. Now if you want something more mechanical and clicky you can never go wrong with the IBM model M, however these keyboards are fucking huge and heavy. Both of these keyboards are very old and have a very outdated connector called a AT plug so you will need two sets of converters to use this keyboard through USB, a AT to PS2 adapter, and a ACTIVE ps2 to usb adapter. Those green little piece of shit adapters wont cut it.



>I want a VGA switch, but for some reason they limit resolution instead of just acting like a fucking pass-through.

Didn't realize VGA supported resolutions that high. Is this a CRT you're working with? I wouldn't use VGA for resolutions that high otherwise, I remember seeing fringing artifacts over it on a 1080p LCD. My guess is that USB couldn't be handled with a simple physical switch (device enumeration etc causing unacceptable delays) so they had to actively process them, then they decided to do the same for VGA for design simplicity.

You could probably make your own passthrough VGA switch if you are willing. I'm not an electronics expert but I know you can use transistors as solid state switches controlled by a single physical switch. Or maybe you can find a 15+pole/double-throw switch somewhere on AliExpress and physically switch the entire VGA interface.

Alternatively, it's possible that the KVM switch you were looking at is already a passthrough device and they just listed an arbitrary maximum resolution for marketing/cover-your-ass purposes. You could always try it and return it if it doesn't work for you.



>Didn't realize VGA supported resolutions that high.

Yes they do.

>Is this a CRT you're working with? I wouldn't use VGA for resolutions that high otherwise


>ou could probably make your own passthrough VGA switch if you are willing. I'm not an electronics expert but I know you can use transistors as solid state switches controlled by a single physical switch. Or maybe you can find a 15+pole/double-throw switch somewhere on AliExpress and physically switch the entire VGA interface.

That might be a good idea.



Make a thread for your results if you actually go through with it. Definitely also consider buying the KVM switch off Amazon, you can buy it and return it in less time than it will take for a single shipment from China (I honestly have no idea if anyone makes switches with that many poles).



Model Ms are a bit rare and expensive in the UK and that Unicomp company has iffy quality with the plastic casings.

Can't find anything on the BTC 5149 so that's a no-go.

Plugable seems to be US only so that's a no- go also.

The Ajazz AK60 seems pretty neat, however I don't like the key caps not having the letters on the top but I think other than that it's perfect for me.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction anon.



Something like cherry MX. Browns would be good, blues have a reset zone that can be a pain while playing games. If you don't have store nearby with boards to test I'd buy a sample kit



>If you want something cheap just get one of the new chinese keyboards with cherry mx clones, like the plugable or ajazz, they have better quality than the original cherry mx key switches

When the hell did the chinks start making decent switches?



When Cherry's patents expired and they could make closer clones legally.



Forget what I said about the AK60.

After further research it seems they use either MX red or MX black switches while I want MX brown.

I guess these chinese KBs use really confusing switch names to trick people into thinking they are getting swichtes presumably more expensive to manufacture.

My new question is; has anyone here tried gaming on one of Unicomp's model M clones?


G502 still best?




Currently using those, but mine are about to die so I would like an answer to this too.


File: 2463e76d3c29656⋯.jpg (71.14 KB, 1280x1102, 640:551, 61pov6t6f8L._SL1280_.jpg)

alright so what do you think about these things?



They shit up shortwave.



Does that matter?


I'm looking to buy an ereader that isn't bogged down by DRM, does such a thing exist? If that isn't an option, would I just be better of buying a tablet? I just want a libre way to read shit digitally without going through drm stores and other garbage things.



Buy anything that can be rooted (lurk forums first), root it and load free books.


Thinking of asking for an e-reader for Christmas. I can and do read books on my PC, but I have a better time when I'm sat away from the computer and all its distractions.

Problem is, I don't know which one to get and I'd prefer one with no DRM so I can read the hundreds of e-books and pdfs I've accumulated over the years. Maybe also one with a colour change, similar to f.lux so I can read late at night.


File: 0367b1be3e35d53⋯.jpeg (111.46 KB, 1910x1000, 191:100, serveimage.jpeg)

You're not going to convince the normies in your life to install Tor or to fuck around with any complicated software in order to be part of a more private social network. Normies just don't give a shit. But there must at least be better alternatives than Facebook. Something that family & friends would sign up to, which might not have the perfect privacy policy but at least isn't the Eye of fucking Sauron that Facebook is.

What social network should I try to get my immediate family to sign up to? I've seen Tagged, Path, Ning and Diaspora recommended as alternatives. Are there any of these that I should definitely avoid?



Do you want your family to post cat photos and selfies. Then Facebook is fine, nothing rearwards narcissism as much as Facebook does with it's likes and hoards of Indians. If you want to just communicate with them, use Matrix.



>Do you want your family to post cat photos and selfies. Then Facebook is fine

Yeah but I want to specifically take people away from Facebook because fuck those guys.





>Yeah but I want to specifically take people away from Facebook because fuck those guys.

Noble, but likely futile. Networks are natural monopolies and surely Zuckerberg has a bunch of addiction researchers working on keeping the cattle hooked. I can't get mine off of whatscrap, which is just Facebook, "because it's what everyone uses".

GNU Social and Diaspora are alright iirc, avoid mastodon. Not sure what chat program to pick, the matrix clients are electron garbage.



Riot.im also has google analytics lol.


I'm probably going to ask for an external hard drive or SSD for Christmas. Any suggestions on brands that can be picked up from something like a Best Buy, but are still reliable and don't have any pozzed bullshit hiding in them?



You have to be over 18 to post here.





I heard they're pushing the release back to NEVER EVER NOT EVER


File: 3ee0e30dc21231a⋯.png (266.71 KB, 1303x688, 1303:688, 7707e29295f706b418954c8437….png)





X230 has graphics a lot better than X220 while still able to take the classic keyboard and being corebooted



>Titan X -> Titan V

they need to work on their naming, titan v sounds like a downgrade.



Nah, they seem to consistently be moving backwards in the alphabet. Titan Z came before Titan X. Also V for Volta.


Is this a cool retro christmas gift https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KAivGLHJzJM

or should i just buy a nintendo


Fuck /tech/, i fell for the thinkmeme hard. I bought a lightly used x220 and its turned from surprisingly great to absolute shit in just a couple of months. I have several stuck keys on the keyboard, which i replaced with a new one, and the fan will get stuck any time i move it off a table. While taking apart the computer i noticed many pieces of broken plastic in the inside, then i took apart the fan, and oh fuck. Half of the fan blades were broken, the fan disintegrated by itself. Because of this now the computer runs at 100 degrees C under load even though I dusted the fan and repasted the cpu. This laptop is a piece of shit.

But the one thing that is making me still use this laptop is the trackpoint, damn is it so convenient to have a pointing device on the laptop at all times which is at least 90% as good as a regular mouse.

Do any of you have a suggestion for a laptop that:

-Has great build quality

-Has a trackpoint

-not lenovo made

-can be found for under 300$ used

-has at least 6 hours of battery life and a removable battery

-(optional) has a removable cpu and/or mxm slot



I'm thinking about upgrading from Canon P.S. G16 to Canon G7X Mark II.

It has got much smaller crop factor, but on the other hand the focal length range is smaller.

The goal is to have less noise, esp. in low light conditions, and otherwise retain all nice properties of G16 (fits in pocket, can handle most of the situations).

G16 also has proper bayonet for filter adapters, G7X mark II would require some glue which kinda sucks for such high priced asset.

I am still not sure if it's worth it. How much of a difference is between 1" and 1/1.7" sensors? And is G7X mark II using some improved tech for it to further reduce noise?

I've read about it on dpreview, but it's hard to get an idea about how it will compare to G16.

I am only interested in the physical level (lens + sensor) because I only use raw anyway; all processing which is used for in-camera JPEGs is not important at all.

I think G16's lens is just fine for me, but I want to have better sensor under it.

Maybe you have some other recommendations which are better?



Also, maybe I should drop the idea of using non replaceable lens and get something like Canon EOS M10? (kit or not)


What's a fairly easy to follow, knowledge dense book about processors?


Best place to ask. Commodore PET 8296-D. Worth picking up? Any addons for IRC that isn't the discontinued Flyer as well? That fucking thing costs more than the PET these days.



>Commodore PET 8296-D. Worth picking up?

You will get very polarizing answers to this depending on who you ask. Obviously getting a PET in this day and age is silly for practical purposes. You want one for historical interest and novelty, and I can respect that. I have a Commodore 64C I picked up with an original floppy for GEOS for much of the same reasons. The real question is; how much is it?



Historical aspect, and just to play with. Sure a C64 can also be fun to fuck with, but messing about with a original AIO PC is joyous. That, and seeing it set up as a nice IRC terminal is comfy I can get behind.

Polarizing? I read that there's compatibility issues as models progressed. Is the 4032 or similar middle ground machine better to get? Sure as fuck not going near the chicklet model no matter.

It's 500 on Ebay, and given the actual model (8032) I wanted isn't about, I thought it might be worth asking about.


I have a pretty old 720p 37 inch Samsung entry level LCD that cuts out every so often and generally just pisses me off with it's shit contrast.

The thing is, I don't even watch that movies/shows or game anymore, i just want to enjoy it when I do, which is why I got a PS4 Pro for Yakuza.

At 2m viewing distance a 4K 50 inch set sounds great and I used to look forward to OLEDs getting cheaper and the tech maturing, but I'm wary about image retention and the loss of brightness, and it seems like it could take a few years until it gets there.

Would a good VA panel like a Sony X900 be a good compromise, or should I just get a cheap entry model again (Samsung MU6300 or some Hisense, although I've heard a lot about them being trash).

Is HDR worth it/ a good investment? If I watch movies they're probably gonna be torrented and played on my thinkpad, so I doubt I'd get the most out of that standard, but the wider colour gamut does sound good.

I wish i would've bought a nice fhd va back in 2013 before everything had inbuilt botnet.



pls respond



If you get one from amazon never enable WiFi or detailed reports about all you did will be sent to the mothership.



All the good ones are deprecated btw, the new models have no SD card slot, no removable battery, just the cloud™



Shit. Then I go for a non-Amazon one then or find an old Kindle.


Has anybody got experience with Toshiba DT01ACAX00 HDDs? Reading reviews doesn't help really. I'd normally go for hitachi drives but they only ship 2,5in where I live.



Yes. I have had four DT01ACA200 drives in RAID5 since January 2014. The reason I bought them then was because they were one of the few drives available that had five year warranties. All four drives have about 22k hours on them, and in that time the only hint of trouble I've had was a URE on disk #4 at about the 1100 hour mark.

Performance is good, acoustics are about average for a modern 3.5" hard drive, and temperatures hover between the mid 30s and low 40s without any fans pointed at them.

9/10 would buy again.


File: 31c2ef20fb832d9⋯.jpg (151.22 KB, 992x1200, 62:75, DJvKhmxVwAQA6vd.jpg)

Recommendations for a new speaker system for PC?

Willing to spend between $100-150



Used ancient Hi-Fi amplifier/receiver and used studio monitors. All active speakers in that price range suck.


File: 40ea0212d6c8d8d⋯.jpg (124.91 KB, 534x949, 534:949, IMG_20170427_232813.jpg)

Hi all,

I'm looking to upgrade my current build and wanted some opinions. Bare with me, my current build was my first build and I created it over two years ago, so the hardware combination is going to make you all groan.

My current build contains:

- Palit GeForce GTX 970 Jetstream Gold

- ASRock Z97 Motherboard

- Intel Core i7 4790

- G.Skill 8GB DDR3

- Silverstone 700W PSU

- CoolerMaster ATX Storm Enforcer

As the colours for this build are all over the place and the cable management is a disgrace, I'm looking at a new colour palette as well as some newer hardware. I'd love to upgrade the RAM to DDR4 16GB as well as my CPU, but doing so also requires a new motherboard, and a new case is definitely needed. I'm thinking the NZXT H440 White/Black and following a white and black theme. I really don't want to spend too much as it's simply an upgrade, and although top of the range stuff would be nice, it isn't completely necessary. I'm mainly looking for the best "bang for my buck."

Here are the parts I'm currently looking at upgrading to; let me know what you guys think and if I could make any changes: https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/pP2H6X



Modern enough, upgrade gpu + ram save $pu



You bought a z- motherboard without a -k processor, and here you are like four years later doing it again. Why?


Is a mini ATX motherboard good for gaming? I just found out that they are way cheaper than an ATX, like half the price, and I really don't need more than one GPU slot or more than 2 RAM slots.. Are there any other reasons why not to buy a mini ATX?


I need a budget replacement mouse for my Microsoft basic optical mouse that is somewhat bigger and more suitable for FPS like: Insurgency, Rising storm etc.



If you are interested in overclocking, ensure it is capable. If you have lots of peripherals, ensure there are sufficient numbers of usb port headers and that they are going to be sufficient for your needs. You will not be able to add a sound card, sata expansion card if you anticipate multiple hdds,etc. They are a very good option for most users.



Zowie FK1+, works perfectly without driver, in linux as well

Are corebooted Opterons still state of-the-art in muh freedoms computing?

I saw the EliteBook 8470p being supported too now, how do they stack up to thinkpads in regards to build quality, display, input and repairability?



>Zowie FK1+

Thanks. I'll probs get this.



Not same anon you got your last answer from. Zowie EC2-A is another option, it's also on a larger size but is not ambidextrous, the shape is different than Zowie FK1+. I've had no issues with it Linux or Windows.


File: 255cd1a9764196f⋯.png (854.86 KB, 900x896, 225:224, 10d58a815e4ca966e137b427d2….png)

1500$ for a new custom built PC, adding Volta and Ryzen in there. Help.


File: ac5a2cce57b0e81⋯.jpg (20.52 KB, 300x300, 1:1, 1435034395491.jpg)


>guys come up with a build for me, it includes a graphics card series that only exists as a $3000 brick my budget is $1500



here, this should fit into your budget:



File: 7452d985375068b⋯.jpg (204.56 KB, 1280x886, 640:443, nazbol.jpg)

Zowie FK1 or EC1?

Also does such a thing as a non-shit mouse with more than 5 buttons exist?


Bought a Moto X 2nd gen, used, 2 years ago. Planned obsolescence has caught up with me and I'm looking for something new. As in, a good phone from a year or two ago that I can buy used now for <$200. Any suggestions? My carrier is Verizon.


I'm looking for a 2k monitor with Gsynch maybe. I got one the other day(an Asus ROG) but it had terrible light bleeding and blooming so I had to return it. Upon further research all it's ISP competitors suffer from this too, so I have a question does TN fare better in this? Also the TN panel I am looking at does not have G Synch, does this matter much?



Also I forgot to mention. Is ISP really that much better than TN?




depends on the panel, there's really good TN panels and really cheap IPS panels. your best bet is to checkout reviews and look at them in person if possible.


have you tried running lineage on it? there's official nougat nightlys https://download.lineageos.org/victara


File: c839c20f9e2a2e2⋯.png (63.74 KB, 1100x548, 275:137, Capture.PNG)

How likely would something like this work in Manjaro? It apparently has a RTL8811AU chipset in it.

My laptop's built in wifi is too slow and it's not upgradable. It only runs at 2.4ghz wireless G speed.


File: f7c4ef8bf5f86a9⋯.jpg (67.9 KB, 640x640, 1:1, IMG_20171216_172111_340.jpg)

I wanted to buy a Huawei Honor 7x, buts its not available in my country (Norway). Do any of you know where I can buy this thing? Or any good smartphones for a decent price for that matter?



get a mate 9



bles someone respond


I want to learn Unix/Linux better. Which books do you recommend?

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