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File: 9cd31551fedf586⋯.png (4.65 KB, 200x200, 1:1, dollarsign.png)


Looking to buy something but aren't sure what to get? Ask here.


>Received a surprise 3D printer for Christmas: Dremel Idea Builder 3D40

>Proprietary drivers are a derivative of Cura (open source)

>Proprietary driver for Win/Mac (removing Linux is a feature?)

>Printer model is actually a rebranded "Flash Forge Dreamer"

>Latest Cura does not include profile for this printer

>For linux support, and best results, they recommend you purchase proprietary software Simplify3D for $150.

Any reason not to return this faster than ASAP?



I also forgot one other great feature:

>Proprietary filament.





wow, that's abysmal. Dremel must have some money to sue out of them, contact ultimaker and sic them on whatever heebs own that brand name.


they have a RETAIL STORE where i live, now. mind boggling. hopefully they sink themselves trying to enter markets.



They're not in violation unless they refuse to give up their source, since this version is explicitly AGPLv3. It gets even better though, "Simplify3D" requires internet access to use, so not only is it $150, it's also proprietary botnet.

The entire field of hobbyist 3D printing seems (at a brief glance) pretty cancerous and reddit laden with MAKERfags, so I probably won't even exchange it for another printer. The prospect of making my own boxes for electrical components seemed nice, but otherwise it is for man-children to print ponies and yoda figurines.


Does dell still offer Me-inoperable toughbooks?



File: 3bc5225b953f282⋯.jpg (34.11 KB, 800x600, 4:3, Best-eReader-2018.jpg)

I'd like to buy myself an e-book reader so I can finally motivate myself to start reading.

All the regular sites just say "Oooh, this one has a bit nicer angles and oooh this one comes in a cream colour, so just get the newest overpriced Kindle!" like it was all written by women and for women. I'd like to know what I'm actually supposed to be looking at, which specs to keep an eye out for and whether or not one can read all the unofficial books I'm downloading off of a russian gen.lib library.



There's only one answer: DON'T!

If you need motivation, you don't want to read, therefore don't. You don't need knowledge neither you want knowledge.

anon almost right above you recommended kobo >>1012414



I have the vg248qe, would recommend.

I tried saving money before getting the Asus and bought an Acer 24" 144hz; it had stutters, tearing, etc. Returned it and swapped for the Asus and have had no issues at all (just make sure you're using dvi or dp)


File: a7bf61a796a52f3⋯.jpg (93.66 KB, 1200x800, 3:2, ramsay1.0.0.jpg)

I have a few things I want to buy:

A completely silent keyboard and mouse.

The most powerful GPU which a Q9650 can handle.

The most quality-driven spy cameras in terms of hardware and staying incognito.

Any tips?




I see you heed RMS' advice to never use a post-Core 2 Intel CPU and want to have a maxed out Core 2 based system.

What motherboard do you use/plan to use?

How much RAM do you aim for - DDR2 or DDR3? In case of the former, 8 GB which is easily obtainable, or try to hund for the ultra-rare Intel-compatible 4GB DDR2 sticks?

What stable CPU clock are you going to expect?


I want a 64 bit x60s and there’s one here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lenovo-ThinkPad-X60s-Intel-Core-2-Duo-CPU-Laptop-PARTS-ONLY-CZ/323385899499?hash=item4b4b4d39eb:g:30sAAOSwP~Fbaby6

But it doesn’t work properly and that’s got me nervous. I have a working 32 bit x60, should I go for it? Also, can I libreboot a Core 2 Duo x60s?


File: 4665bba52dd67fe⋯.jpg (40.55 KB, 980x904, 245:226, why.jpg)



I'm guessing the X60 is limited to 3GB as the T60 so fuck it?


File: c69e4121e06d4a1⋯.jpg (23.58 KB, 240x240, 1:1, patchoulisearch.jpg)

How should I give money to deplatformed right-wing activists?

Also, what should I give my father to cast things up onto his t.v.?



What are you saying here? Why bother with a 64 bit machine if it only has 3gb of ram? If so, for general compatibility reasons. 32 bit is a dying breed and I also want to emulate TempleOS natively without jumping through QEMU hoops.



64-bit doesn't make much sense on 3 GiB because of the additional overhead associated with 64-bit vs. 32-bit. Heck, even 8 GiB is not recommended, for 64-bit you should aim for 16 GiB at least. Either that, or ~3 GiB 32-bit.



Do keep in mind though that the T60(p) were the most powerful non-ME/AMT Thinkpads. All beyond is botnet incarnate.


File: 29dd74be5c4ce95⋯.jpg (16.28 KB, 255x255, 1:1, 0fa038037db11410b509d9efba….jpg)






Why do none of these cunts come with standard microSD storage expansion? Worthless fucking faggot corporations and their worthless fucking faggot bullshit $280 for 8GB of on-board memory on the eve of the year of our lord 2019.


File: 75bc0b48eeb3419⋯.png (147.23 KB, 400x400, 1:1, 1545703622485.png)


likebook mars anon

chinkshit, but modern, android, and microsd slot


File: 0e38100e0194a00⋯.jpg (263.57 KB, 1200x800, 3:2, Bookeen-Cybook-Muse-Frontl….jpg)




Update: I went ahead and got myself a Bookeen Cybook Muse HD (gay fucking name). Looks like an oversized memory card and this one has a microSD slot.




Roku stick should be fine.

Better than your standard, unupgradeable Smart TV.


Best laptop to run Qubes 4.0 with coreboot for under $300?



>Best laptop to run Qubes 4.0 with coreboot for under $300?

AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. If you install Qubes on a <$300 laptop, plan on opening a browser at 8am and coming back after lunch to actually use it, 'cause that's how long it will take to load.


Sugestion on a decent way of follow website changes? Many of websites I like doesn't provide any RSS feed. Initialy I was thinking of download the pages and make a diff -Naur on it, but I'm sure that there is better alternatives.



I can run 3.2 on a t500 just fine


File: c6b39ebe407b4d4⋯.jpg (26.07 KB, 640x618, 320:309, gas.jpg)

What's the best VPN that keeps no logs? I'm comparing NordVPN, ExpressVPN, CyberGhost, ProtonVPN, and of course PrivateInternetAccess.

Anybody have any recommendations as to what else I should check out?



>no logs




Assuming they all keep logs, then, what's the best, relatively speaking? I still need an answer.




>>no logs


Why you just answer the question with some useful information instead of acting like a stupid retarded?



dont forget airvpn



generally speaking most vpn services are just a collection of openvpn compatable proxies on already existing vps services all cataloged for convence.

Those vps services can log if they want to the only thing that "we keep no logs" mean is for the service provider, even then they can still go back on their word.

Everything you do on the internet is logged in some way or another, stop being retarded.

Only thing you can actually do is mitagate this logging, if you don't want to be logged i suggest stop using the internet.



Roku is a service that has ties with amazon, they have been known to spy on wifi traffic.




This one seems nice. There is another one you guys think deserves a recommendation?






Threadly reminder that yes, while logging is still possible, one of PIA's strongest advertising points is the time they were subpoenaed (sp?) by the FBI in a pedo case for "all information pertaining to the subject" and what they brought to court was "We know the credit card he paid with and the name he attributed to that credit card." That's it. Independently verify that for yourself if you must (I did) but if you think that they would fuck with the fucking FBI, you're out of your mind.

Of course, it could have all been a set up with the Justice Dept and everyone all in cahoots, but at that point you are so paranoid that you should not even be using an OS you didn't hand-write yourself as even wireshark could be compromised and hide traffic.

So, as always, consider your threat level. If you're above FBI-tier, then PIA is not for you (Disclaimer: I've used them for years). NordVPN actually softbanned me from their servers for P2P traffic, so I know they were using traffic scanning. PIA has done no such thing in many many TB upload of DMCA worthy material.



>retarded for asking a question


>everything is logged.

And water is wet. Just checking if there's any alternative.


I have a seedbox so I don't ever torrent directly, but so far I was impressed by the PIA story (whether it's true or not remains to be seen, I'll have to look into that one myself).

PIA is the one that's not shilled all over the place as well, unlike NordVPN.


if your just going to torrent the latest tv show, PIA Airvpn, Nord etc will all do the same job. If you are going to do something very illegal thats a different story.


MX Brown or MX Blue and why?



>PIA is the one that's not shilled all over the place as well

Wrong. It's reddit's favorite vpn.

Also, it's not shilled widely on the *chins because they don't provide a warning canary like every other sensible vpn provider.

There reasoning was: "It's bad for business"

Ontop of that, it's hosted in the US of Ass, which is within the 14 eyes. Unlike Nordvpn which is hosted in Panama.

PIA is shit, don't use it. posted from pia


File: 22dd1ffe53aea6e⋯.jpg (33.97 KB, 276x242, 138:121, 1458870414302.jpg)


>PIA is the one that's not shilled all over the place as well, unlike NordVPN

Nord has been going super hard lately, but no, PIA is absolutely huge on advertising. It's a catch 22 - like faceberg, the Big Guys for you will be the ones with gubbment support, but that, again, begs the question: What is your threat level? If it is above FBI then you are fucked trusting PIA (and definitely Nord), but in what seems like the most objective evidence you could possibly get, for anything below that, PIA is sufficient.

I never understood seedboxes unless you are paying for them in bitcoin/monero, etc.

Also, as far as speeds go, I got 30mbps down through PIA, which was the max speed my connection could handle. YMMV, because I don't know the exact physical location of the servers that are closest to me, though I do live in a major city. Point is that there isn't shit loads of bottlenecking or anything, in my experience.


>Also, it's not shilled widely on the *chins because they don't provide a warning canary like every other sensible vpn provider.

To be fair, a demonstrated subpeona from the FBI, not a legally-grey warrant canary, is much stronger evidence.

Being serious, a warrant canary is like saying, "Cops can't lie if you ask them, 'Are you a cop?'" You think the fucking FBI doesn't know what a warrant canary is? And you think they couldn't get one of their pocket judges to whimsically sign-off on an NSL that said, "Removal of your warrant canary constitutes informing your userbase of our sanctioned monitoring activities and will be considered criminal obstruction of justice."? Like, seriously? You really think the fucking FBI would go, "Oh NO Anon has a sign over their door that says, 'By entering this building you agree to not arrest me!'" I don't mean to directly call you stupid, but I really would like to know if that's what you honestly believe. Cops? Sure, a warrant canary is great, but then, it will never be cops showing up for anything you do online, except maybe make death threats or something. FBI? Fuck fuck fucking no way.

>Ontop of that, it's hosted in the US of Ass, which is within the 14 eyes. Unlike Nordvpn which is hosted in Panama.

You should really be painfully aware that the entire existence of the 14 eyes is because the government needs to outsource spying on their own citizens, right? You know that that's why we spy on Britain, and that's why they spy on us? As soon as your information leaves a domestic server, even with a nationally run company, it completely loses its rights to privacy. In a tragic, tragic irony, as fucked as everything is, your privacy is actually safer if all of your information stays domestic. Obviously, obviously, if the 14 Eyes of the world are bearing down on your activities, it will make absolutely no difference whether you are using PIA or Nord or Mullvad. None. Security is all about threat level, and if you are just pirating vidya and shitposting PIA will do just fine, but Nord is incompetent and kiked enough to shadowban you for P2P traffic, in which case, how the fuck did they build a "violation history" for my account which led to my banning? PIA has never done that shit and I'm 100% certain they would've gotten 6,000,000 DMCA notices on my behalf, yet my seed-laptop's uptime is over two months now, and it's still chugging right along uploading sweet sweet anime titties across the world.



>Warrant canary...waste of time



File: 1326e9dd0b7fdb1⋯.png (113.98 KB, 344x381, 344:381, 1538872527.png)


>but Nord is incompetent and kiked enough to shadowban you for P2P traffic

I've never once had nordvpn take down my seedbox, are you high?

However, i have had pia block all my p2p ports aa handful of times.

>your privacy is actually safer if all of your information stays domestic.

>just let me spy on you goy!! turn off that pesky encryption.



>we don't keep logs

>here's this guys entire payment history




Over 200 weapons. 100 maps. Map editor. Free. Opensource. Runs on Lin/Win/Mac/etc


That is my consumer advice.



Tbh, you shouldn't be using a vpn if you care about security. it's a weak link.

You should instead purchase a cheap vps and put your own proxy on it.

Despite what they're catchy marketing says, VPNs are all made as a commerical product, not a consumer's security tool.



looks like ass, ur ass.



>I've never once had nordvpn take down my seedbox, are you high?

Well, after starting my P2P client thinking, "fuck it, I'll have a go, even though it's against TOS" and being suddenly disconnected, I closed the client, logged back in as normal, browsed a bit with it active, then started the p2p client again. Immediate disconnection. Tried connecting to servers around the globe in this fashion: Immediate disconnection. Did all of the stupid shit: Check ipconfig for the P2P client. Completely normal and acceptable. Try another P2P client for shits and giggles with Linux ISO - works without VPN, disconnects VPN client upon opening otherwise. Check virtual nic settings, un/reinstall its network driver, un/reinstall vpn client. Nothing worked. Escalated my issue through a lengthy chain starting with support tech (repeating much of what I'd already done), to support manager, then to support supervisor. They suggested I use my creds to just connect to their openvpn servers using my os client/another openvpn client. I did so. Same result - as soon as I started P2P, immediate disconnection.

And then, after those repeated disconnections that took place over a couple days, none of their fucking servers, None of them, would allow my creds to connect. Tech support "said" they would reset my login password. Nothing changed, connection was denied entirely. Then they stopped replying when I told them the reset didn't work, or something to that effect. Unless you have some other ideas, I can only assume that my login was shadowbanned for the type of traffic I was using over their network.

I can understand assuming your fellow posters are some measure of retarded. I do it all the time. What you should know is that I have worked datacenter jobs and edited A records for dozens of medium-size companies (not a notable accomplishment of any kind. I was making $12/hr), which I point out only to demonstrate that I know how to authenticate and if I know how to authenticate, yet I could not when it came to NordVPN, that meant my authentication privilege had been internally revoked as far as I can reason.


You haven't read enough of and about the Snowden leaks if you're seriously disagreeing with what I say. You should obviously fucking encrypt everything end to end whenever possible. I'm talking about higher threat levels. Britain has no legal obligation to respect your US-domestic Fifth Amendment rights. If you can understand that extremely simple concept, then you understand what I'm saying. Likewise with speech, britain does not have freedom of speech, but in america, you do. Everyone likes to believe we're the worst country on Earth, but the sad truth is, we are still the fucking best.

<inb4 all this other tertiary bullshit that's less important than freedom of speech and guns


>business invoices used for tax purposes == browsing history

I'm almost upset with how stupid this comment is. The FBI said, "Give us everything you have on the guy, we want browsing history, downloads, everything that passed through your servers" and they handed them a sticky note with a CC# and a login name. Shut the fuck up.


1,000% correct. Your operative word here is security and for every single type and form of security, the first question asked is: What am I securing myself from? A gun (security device) purchased to defend your home from niggers is going to be different from the security device purchased to protect yourself from wild bears. Likewise, what is the VPN being used to protect you from? FBI? MPAA? A nosy roommate?



It's good. Play and enjoy.

100 maps.



Over 200 weapons. 100 maps. Map editor. Free. Opensource. Runs on Lin/Win/Mac/etc


(Has nukes, vehicles, city generation, building ,etc)


Is libre vidya.

and 3D!



>being this lost





I appreciate your thoughts, anons.


>Try to access my gmail account from three years ago

>Forgot my pass so have to do recovery

>Verify my phone number by putting in the google verification code emailed to me

>Enter my backup verification code

>Answer the secret question (my SSN)

>Put in the google verification code sent to my backup email

<Google couldn't verify that this email belongs to you




*>Verify my phone number by putting in the google verification code messaged to me




Their customer support is shit, supposedly owned by the cunts behind ProtonVPN who have a company in panama that sells zombie PCs


They're okay iirc


Never heard of these guys


Supposedly they're okay

I needed to use VPN (for my vidya) and did a lot of research and my conclusion is that they're either incompetent, outright liars, or both.

If you need a VPN to bypass geoblock just get mudfish. They're cheap as chips, have shitload of servers, and promise that they don't keep logs.

If you need a VPN to do some criminal activity, law enforcement can get you no matter what you do if they really want to so just don't do anything retarded.



riseup is free and has the biggest chance of not ratting you out

sigavpn is also free and keeps no logs


What are some recommended SATA internal DVD burners?

>inb4 "hurr optical is obsolete, why bother at all"



File: ebdd74b7e2ec8f5⋯.jpg (158.57 KB, 1500x1500, 1:1, GPD-p-2.jpg)

Talk me out of buying this.

I'm looking for a portable Emacs machine.



Why do you need a portable Emacs machine?

And wouldn't something with a better keyboard work for that, like an old Acer netbook?



>Why do you need a portable Emacs machine?

I have a Poodroid (((smart))) phone and I can not run Emacs on it will. Termux is not good enough. It drains the battery and accessing mod keys on a soft keyboard is awful.

I do everything on computers, often in text. Everything form my accounting to a simple shopping list. I have failed to find a good text editor for Android, let alone a relabel keyboard.

Also my 15'' laptop is to big for some situations, like when I was flying to visit family.

>And wouldn't something with a better keyboard work for that, like an old Acer netbook?

I was hoping for something I can always have with me.

This can at lest fit in a jacket pocket



Fair enough, I can see myself wanting something similar. That being said, that price point is really discouraging, but I do admit that there's probably not much choice on the market.



>probably not much choice on the market.

I'm not happy about the cost or buying form China but the only alliterative is the Gemini. It would cost me even more and is Android hardware. At lest the kernel is open source but I don't think most disros will install on it.

GDP is the only one I see making this kind of computer. This is what Tromp meant when he said America doesn't make things anymore.

At lest the cheper GPD pocket "Amber Black" comes out this month.

It's almost one botnet to anther tho. . .



As a thought experiment, wonder how practical it would be to make one of those meme DIY (((Raspberry Pi))) mini computers with a less cucked SBC as a base.



I did

The big problems are makeing the enclose and finding a good video screen.

I have seen people make something similar but it always looks like a street shiter meme rather then something useful. Most I have seen don't have the keyboard attached. Not much beter then a phone at that point.



>Does cas latency matter


>how much




Look into Gateron and Kalih clones


I've been looking for a laptop, and I'm wondering how much the cooling system matters.

I want a laptop that can comfortably compile Gentoo without burning down. I'm deciding between the ThinkPad E580 and L580, mostly due to the cooling system. The E-series blows the air downwards towards the table. The L-series instead blows the air to the right, though a ridge in the case.

Does this affect the cooling in a way that really matters? What would you recommend for a gentoo machine?



You don't mention specs needed but I use Gentoo with a coreboot'ed T400 and a T420. I would avoid recent models like plague. You can't go wrong with old TP. Cheap second hand parts, coreboot possible, best cooling (as they're build as tank, no cheap shit)


2070, 1080, vega64

Which one?

Is one worth the extra $200 compared to the others?

Navi when?




Hmm, I'll have to check these out.

Funnily enough I only heard of ExpressVPN through a JonTron video recently.



>can't go wrong with old TP

How old though? What is the sweetspot considering performance, upgradability, ruggedness, functionality, and botnet mitigation?


CES 2019 is coming up in a few days. Do prices for current stuff tend to drop at all after the announcements? I've been thinking of picking up a new hard drive and SSD but I'll wait a few days if I can get them a little cheaper. I'm a little wary because I was hesitant during Black Friday and missed a good deal.




Are SLC SSDs a must? Or are MLC (or even TLC) acceptable these days?



I'm going for a new thinkpad because I want some recent hardware for my main machine. I practically live on the go so I can't really have a standing PC.



Navi sometime this summer. I would get a 570. I got one to replace my 390 and it's amazing of how cheap it is and comparable it is to the 390. Being able to run all of my shit at max for 60 fps. Otherwise 1080 some to be the most compatible with most games and bang for buck. The rtx seems too overkill and expensive for minor improvements.



10 years old

So, x200 for 12", T400 for 14" and T500 for 15"

X200T, R400, R500 and W500 also.

X60 or T60 for real White man system with 4/3 display.

All running with coreboot.

Anything beyond Core2 is botnet.

That said, it is not perfect. You are still facing EC firmware, HDD firmware, Core2Duo bugs if you don't use microcode (also recent Jewtel microcode (Spectre etc..) are not available for these old CPUs

So yeah, not perfect but still better than you average recent botnet'ed Lenovo.



>Core2Duo bugs if you don't use microcode (also recent Jewtel microcode (Spectre etc..) are not available for these old CPUs

Originally they promised to patch all 45nm CPUs, which would include the Penryn CPUs used by the Thinkpads you listed), but then decided to screw over all Core 2 (and some Nehalem) platforms.




>systems which don't have ME/AMT or have an older neuterable version won't get Meltdown/Spectre microcode fixes

wow, what an entirely coincidental convenience


I'm looking for a printer that can produce sharp, beautiful, monochrome text, and I don't need/want anything else really. However I can find very little in consumer reviews or product specs that directly appeal to me: most of the few reviews of monochrome printers I've found focus on inconsequential things like connectivity, dimensions, noise, ppm, etc. and only occasionally vaguely and subjectively approve of the text quality or mention the only relevant specification that's given, DPI, which itself seems to be reported inconsistently and is clearly only an obfuscated part of the picture(literally). What matters is how well the printer can reproduce the glyphs of English and other symbols in a readable form. Besides the printer, the quality/type of the paper and ink must have a huge impact, as well as any software/documenting used for formatting and fonts.

Can anyone give me some advice or links that can explain what's a priority or worth buying? I guess my ideal is self-publishing in a home office the books which I wish to read, from pdf/html/etc or even just plain text with some basic formatting software(tex and postscript come to mind, but I've never used them directly like that).


what should i do with the three i5 sandy bridge OEM computers i bought off ebay and craigslist?



Use them to beat yourself senseless for buying three i5 sandy bridge OEM computers off ebay and craigslist that you apparently have no other use for.


Gonna delete muh google account, still got $5 in the playstore, could anything interesting be pulled off? Thanks.



I've had good luck with my monochrome brother laser printers.

text on them are very sharp, images are pretty meh, but it's acceptable to me.




that's cute anon.



MLC and TLC drives use a portion of their flash as an SLC write cache. The drive can write at SLC speeds until the cache is filled, then performance drops off a cliff. If you actually want to use an SSD for extremely write heavy workloads that are going to be affected by this then you should get an SLC drive, but most consumers won't ever come close to hitting that wall. SLC is still more reliable than MLC but if you're worried about that you should have backups anyway.


You should get a laser printer, they're faster, more reliable, and cheaper to operate than inkjets, and produce better looking B&W results to boot. I have no specific recommendations except that I've had good results with Brother printers and to avoid all-in-one scanner+printers because they're usually shit. Also keep a window open when you print, toner particles are carcinogenic.

>I guess my ideal is self-publishing in a home office the books which I wish to read, from pdf/html/etc or even just plain text with some basic formatting software(tex and postscript come to mind, but I've never used them directly like that).

You might want to do the math of how much it costs to home print the books you want. It's probably cheaper in some cases to just buy the book. I personally would rather throw my PDFs on a tablet.



What is the best 22" CRT monitor you can buy ?

Is DiamondPro 2070SB the real deal?


Are there any good 16:10 monitors out there that aren't expensive as all hell? I want a dual monitor setup (one portrait, one landscape), but I really dislike 16:9 monitors.



>You should get a laser printer

>avoid all-in-one scanner+printers

I already have a brother laser printer but I need a scanner. What should I get? Which brand has the least bloated windows drivers?



1. dedicated media server

2. dedicated firewall/vps

3. htpc

alternate: windows xp retro gaming machine



LG with Mdisc logo on front


I'm looking for a small screen, 11-14", should have a DPI of >=180, so high quality. Everything I looked at is either absolute low resolution china garbage or of questionable/unclear quality. Is it really impossible to just get a small but good screen? I don't want some 30" behemoth. I have an actual 13" ereader that also works as a screen and it's very nice, but I also need something more traditional with color.



I have no idea honestly, try asking scanlator fags and tell me what they say because I want to know too.



>DiamondPro 2070SB

I have one of those, it's pretty nice.

my Diamondtron can be a little bit blurry/fuzzy at 1600x1200@85hz, but I'm sure it's nothing a proper calibration couldn't fix.


have you considered looking into eDP laptop panels with an adapter?


Months ago some anon posted a picture of a white laptop, box like, and said it was either Panasonic or Fujitsu. Does anyone know what model or make that was? I want to buy one since I liked the look of it.



>box like,

toughbook most likely


Hello. Currently, I use a Xiaomi Redmi Note 4, but since the display is broken, I'm looking for a new buy. The Samsung Galaxy A8 caught my eye. What's your view on it? Is there a chinese with comparable quality? The price for it was very good for my country's standard. I liked the Iphone X, but it is too expensive and I dislike iOS. Would you recommend anything else? I'm not looking for crazy customization, just something highly functional in the sense that it won't present bugs nor lags. I want something that will reproduce movies of high quality without shreds or lagging. A nice camera would be good, since the Redmi Note's sucks, but I'm not a picture taker myself, just wanted to get a few nice shots. Thank you


opinions on mullvad vpn?



>No registration required

>Accepts Bitcoin

>Has Wireguard support

I've used it for several months and can certainly recommend it.


Tired of pen and paper, thinkitof upgrading to a tablet for art on the go ( I guess this is more of a /ic/ question than /tech/ but still)

Anything not over $800 and good for just being a damn digital drawing pad? Looked into Microsoft pro 4 and Samsung tablets but on the fence. Lenovo yoga I was tempted because I like their laptops for Linux usage but the reviews for it seemed to be pretty bad.


Is NetGEAR WNDR 3800 still recommended?



>Are there any good 16:10 monitors out there that aren't expensive as all hell?




/tech/ recommends Thinkvision.

Most of these have really low response rate and a good matte surface. If you're lucky, you could get yourself 5:4 or 4:3 with high resolution more than 900p but it is likely gonna be a worn out panel (slightly yellowish) so you should know how to calibrate the color space with a software or the OSD.



Try getting a better display cable first. Since that is a 1200p I assume that it is either DVI/VGA series. Get ones with ferrite magnet on both ends and your OS will likely detect the VESA modes of the monitor that you wouldn't have to force different mode/refresh rates.

If a 1pixel horizontal and vertical line looks blurry it means your cable is bad.


Samsung is pretty okay. It's also easy to change to Lineage OS if you hate the big bad botnet. Xiaomeme have this 15 days unlock cancer so it can mine as much data possible which includes your GPS coordinates, nearby wifi MAC addresses, IMSI and more. Trust me, I'm a hacker.


Is that the one with naked Cirno? It's probably a thinkpad. Fujitsu is okay brand while Panasonic is likely impossible to find due to Japan policy "only sold inside Japan"



>accessing mod keys on a soft keyboard is awful.

Hacker's keyboard is the only good keyboard for that.


File: aeca17f4cf17697⋯.png (3.76 MB, 1328x1988, 332:497, uOQmiJs.png)

File: 4caceccf1a2fedd⋯.jpg (371.81 KB, 1324x1988, 331:497, xhRifsQ.jpg)


>Try getting a better display cable first

I know what I meant when I said the display is blurry, I've used the same cables on my trinitron, of similar spec 1200p@85hz "native" etc, that doesn't have blurry text even though the tube has much more wear. even my other diamondtron has sub par text legibility.

it's common on diamondtrons to have a shit factory setup, they just need a proper tuneup.

if you don't believe me we can go back in time 16 years, when the 2070sb was reviewed.

>In contrast to its graphics performance, which put it at the head of the pack at the time of our review, the 2070SB came in dead last for text quality. It appears that the same optimizations that produced rich color made standard black-on-white (and white-on-black) text harder to distinguish. While text performance is probably not a top concern for the 2070SB's primary audience, the monitor's poor showing could be a hindrance to graphics professionals working on page layouts. However, a custom calibration to optimize for text might improve readability.





I'm still in 2010 I guess


File: 85f9f38ff5dc7ce⋯.jpg (91.54 KB, 412x599, 412:599, old-apple-logo.jpg)

I know we all hate apple but is there a particular used mac laptop to look for if bored of using normal computers?



m68k or G3/G4 machines



Define "normal computer".

You mean operating system, or hardware? You don't need a macbook, to try something different. You could try a GNU/Linux distribution, without buing new hardware. GNU/Linux respects your freedom.

I guess you're a Windows user.

>I know we all hate apple

People here often hate Apple, because it's software is nonfree(as in dystopia).

Apple is evil:


Read about free software:


If you still want to try that crap, there is




if you use nonfree AMD processors.

If you meant hardware, here you have something that is not a normal computer:






I know about linux, meant hardware. The eoma seems like the right idea. Maybe it will take off and we'll get better power.


I'm trying to recover the password for a gmail account I made ten years ago.

I set up two factor login, and got the backup codes but those aren't enough to recover the password apparently.




>Gave my old password

>Gave my backup code

>Gave the verification number sent to my mobile

>Gave my old mobile number

>Still not enough to get my account back

Is it even possible to recover passwords?


Best wifi router for under 50 euros?


What's a good gaming mouse that doesn't have a backlight, or has a backlight that can be turned off without software?



You could always just open one of them up and unplug/cut the leds. That being said, G500 master race.



I have a deathadder elite that can turn off its leds.



Would you settle for one with LEDs so dim you have to actively try to see them at all?

If so DM1 FPS


Will praying to fagioli save us from CoC hell?



Are you into bugchasing?



>Panasonic is likely impossible to find due to Japan policy "only sold inside Japan"

Where is Commodore Perry when we need him?



>or has a backlight that can be turned off without software?

I've never heard of a gayman mouse that didn't store the config internally on flash, so you can install the software once, configure it how you want, and uninstall it. A few even have open source utilities for configuration if you want to be autistic about it.


My cpu is an i5-2500 and it's a bottleneck for my pc. Should I just buy a ryzen and all of the cost accosted (mobo and ram) with it or will buying a i7 3770K on ebay for a 100ish buck will squeeze a couple more years out of this mobo?



Everybody seems to be waiting for zen2. And the original (ATV) leaks look pretty accurate, so you might as well...


File: 3cb4c6acf470f42⋯.jpg (48.03 KB, 774x460, 387:230, quadro-desktop-p6000-3qtr-….jpg)

Are professional GPU worth the extra bux ?



unless you do autocad, modelling, CUDA jobs: no

t. 4000 owner



Obviously, duh.

But is the performance improvement worth it ?


File: e162254959571e2⋯.jpg (32.03 KB, 400x260, 20:13, 400x260-ct.jpg)

best phone for $500 ?




seriously, all those phones are at least 5 years old


Looking for a new phone as my current one is locked to my old provider. I have an iPhone SE 64GB and am lookin for something comparable in size and memory. Ideally an older iPhone as I’m not a fan of the new ones’ lack of an actual home button.



>is locked to my old provider

unlock it retard.



Checkin those double dubs

I’ve tried getting them to unlock it, but they refuse to. It’s paid off, from them, etc. Given that it’s starting to crap out on me, I’d rather just get a new one. Hence why I’m here.


File: f27bed25e8e7356⋯.png (46.77 KB, 2560x1440, 16:9, 164928611-windows-98-wallp….png)

learning C++, following some good online guides but I want a hardcover textbook to solidify my study with. was thinking one of the ones put out by Stroustrep himself but would like advice on what C++ books are the best and good programming books in general, thanks


File: 42f54dcf0b53f78⋯.png (614.84 KB, 693x1000, 693:1000, ClipboardImage.png)

How do you get 5.1 sound on a desktop? Every recommendation I see online pertains to getting 2 or 2.1 channel audio, and mostly for laptops. And everything I find to buy near me that is 5.1 is coupled with a DVD/BD player, or is some TV soundbar.

And sometimes a set with a DVD player (e.g., an LG one) is cheaper than a soundbar. I don't get it, are soundbars supposed to sound better than separate big speakers? Makes no sense.

Do you have nice audio on your PC? How did you go about it?


File: 8f3818a39c3881f⋯.gif (76.89 KB, 310x266, 155:133, Confused Kirby.gif)

Looking for an external hard-drive, specifically for one that can be used with my laptop. Not too concerned about speed, but preferably with good enough or average storage for movies, games, etc.



a good stereo setup is a lot cheaper and easier than a good surround setup.

good amp+bookshelf speakers is a good combo, throw a sub in there if you wish.



>I have a deathadder elite that can turn off its leds.

Doesn't the deathadder elite require software just to function?


File: 68cf4c1d02651d7⋯.png (75.92 KB, 864x550, 432:275, razor.png)


>just to function

no, but it helps.

I just used OpenRazor and Polychromatic.

no idea how shit their bloatware on winshit is.



>buy case (which will probably higher quality)

>buy hdd in whatever size or formfactor you want


File: 99348ddfdfbe7c9⋯.png (596.26 KB, 812x1000, 203:250, ClipboardImage.png)


>Looking for an external hard-drive, specifically for one that can be used with my laptop

Absolutely every single hard drive will work. There is a point, however, where they will need external bricks, so I recommend to stay within the 2.5 form factor (the drive inside is just a SATA drive, and there are 2.5 and 3.5 form factors).

I recommend the cheapest 2TB drive you can find (should cost something close to $100), and if anything there matters to you, get a backup set up. If you get an SSD you can throw it around carelessly, but hard drives will break if you don't take care of them.


>a good stereo setup is a lot cheaper and easier than a good surround setup.

Doesn't an okayish 5.1 sound better than a good 2.1? I'm talking low-mid volume range, not trying to push it, just from the "sound comes from around you rather than in front" effect.


File: 649a7d45f53e5db⋯.png (312.96 KB, 800x687, 800:687, ClipboardImage.png)


>Doesn't an okayish 5.1 sound better than a good 2.1?

By this I mean like a Logitech z506, which looks ugly as sin, but seems like an affordable, popular 5.1 to use as computer speakers. I'm open to ideas on something different, even if it is more expensive.


>1. Speakers for music (extreme metal/prog rock/prog folk) only

I currently have the tiny Dali Zensor 1 (which I really like, but have nothing to compare to). Here are the main candidates:

│ Brand/Model │ Tannoy XT6F │ Monitor Audio Silver 200 │ Dali Opticon 6 │ Focal Aria 926 │
│ Price (€) │ 1550 │ 1500 │ 1700 │ 1200 (real wood 1500) │
│ N-way │ 3 │ 2.5000 │ 3.5000 │ 3 │
│ HP (grave/med/high) │ 1/1/1 │ 1/1/1 │ 1/1/2 │ 2/1/1 │
│ HP size (cm) │ 15/2.5 │ 13/2.5 │ 16.5/~1.5/2.8 │ 16.5/2.5 │
│ Sensibility │ 90 │ 89 │ 88.5000 │ 91.5000 │
│ Frequency range (Hz-KHz) │ 38-32 │ 38-35 │ 49-32 │ 45-28 │
│ Crossover cutoff │ 250Hz/1.8kHz │ 700Hz/2.9KHz │ 800Hz/2.2kHz/14kHz │ 290Hz/2.4KHz │
│ Technologies │ Dual Concentric/Torus │ Tweeter C-CAM/RST │ SMC/Double tweeter (ribbon and dome) │ FLAX/Tweeter dome TNF │

Leaning toward the Tannoy or Dali, currently.

>2. Amps

I think I can keep my Yamaha A-S300, but I want some opinions: which brand is better Yamaha, Pioneer or Onkyo?

>3. SBC with digital audio out

I have an old Cubietruck 2, but I wonder if there's a good one with a Toslink or RCA connector builtin. Something without blobs (not counting the GPU), please.



But this is utter trash for gaymers. Do yourself a favour and follow anon's advice: buy cheap bookshelf speakers and a cheap amp; no need for a fartcannon if you use it mainly for music this doesn't include nigger noise.

I'd say you need to put at least $400 into the amp and speaker pair if you want something good.




anon >>1020352

Do you really need 5.1 ? this stuff on pic is so gay, better buy a pair of AudioEngine A5+ with DAC, or A2+ if you're a poorfag.



>put at least $400 into the amp and speaker pair if you want something good

if anon does go that route, used speakers can be a great value even if you end up rebuilding the crossovers.

don't cheap out on an amp, a bad amp will make great speakers sound like tin cans I've been down this road to many times. there's a lot of good entry level amps with DACs built in too, personally that's the route I took as optical and coaxial inputs are a nice option. Onkyo A-9010 if you're curious.


File: ef4c95183a3762d⋯.png (1.27 MB, 3000x1088, 375:136, LOGITECH_Z906_01.png)


>I'd say you need to put at least $400 into the amp and speaker pair if you want something good.

For that much money I can get the Z906 which is 1000 Watts peak/500 Watts RMS and THX certified. I don't get it, does a $400 2.0 channel setup really sound better than this seemingly decent $400 5.1 setup?

>Do you really need 5.1?

Not need, but I'd love to see what it sounds like in a desktop. I'm not the sort of person who turns the volume to 11, I just want to feel the 5.1 effect when an audio source is 5.1.

Essentially, would a non-audiophile notice the quality of $400 stereo?


>entry level

>Onkyo A-9010

I don't get it. That thing is like $450 on Amazon. And it's just the amp! I can only assume audiophiles are made of money.



Bad amps are mostly an audiophile meme now. Just buy the cheapest Yamaha and it'll work.



>using power as an argument

>without mentioning sensibility

>as if it mattered when you'll run it low anyway, like everybody

m8, comparing "computer" speakers and hifi speakers is like comparing gamer headsets with studio headphones.

To be more concrete, if you buy this crap, you'll get a magnificient V-shaped signature with tons of distorsion and no soundstage at all.



Can't do that, fam. The Lenovo Yoga was one of my best purchases. I can program anywhere with it, and it even plays games decently. It's passively cooled, so I can sit it on anything without blocking the fan.


File: 8b9c1727aca9f3a⋯.jpg (80.19 KB, 800x640, 5:4, logishit.jpg)


>That thing is like $450 on Amazon

just an example, it's discontinued now so the price is going up. was like 300 or 350 when I bought it back in 2017.

either way $350 amp(with internal DAC and headphone amp)+$200 used speakers from the 90's+$100 headphones I bought a decade ago +$5 jb weld to fix them thanks sennheiser+$60 misc cables and shit over time =~$715 spread over 10 years.

take care of your shit and price isn't that much of an issue if you can save a bit here and there. buying nice/good things once is better than buying garbage over and over.

btw power output means next to nothing, 10W is stupidly loud at a desk.

you could always go with what this guy said >>1020518 powered bookshelf units are pretty nice.

I'm not even being some elitist shit, I still have pic related from when I didn't know any better. I wouldn't recommend such things as for general use they're terrible when they're not setup prefect (this is how THX rates stuff too, in a perfect setup/room size for that unit.)


I brought it up because some people buy the first thing they find in a thrift store and are surprised when it's a pile if shit.



To be honest, AudioEngine is overkill, this anon >>1020604 is right. With a dedicated amp, you will be able to try later a 5.1 (or better) setup.

Honestly, forget my advice with AudioEngine, while it is good stuff, it is too pricey for what is really.

Decent amp & speakers in thrift store = bingo

I still regret having sold my Marantz amp and good old passive Focal speakers, this was good shit..


File: ba5aadb5ac3a34d⋯.png (236.71 KB, 573x573, 1:1, am i retarded.png)



Thanks both of you.

>$200 used speakers from the 90'

>speakers in thrift store

So from what I gather, I should pay more attention to the amp and just pair it with more or less whatever bookshelf speaker?

Also, this is a super dumb question, but I have to ask. PC-oriented speakers all have a headphone jack where you can plug your headphones and it mutes the speakers. Do amps have this?

I really thought the amp was just a glorified transistor



you can't expect a good amp to drive crap speakers into sounding good, much how good speakers can't expect to reach they're potential when driven by a bad amp. there needs to be a balance.

if I were you I'd look into a powered bookshelf setup as that's hard to fuck up from the users end, along with looking into affordable amps and speakers.

don't eat up their (((marketing))), cross check reviews if it sounds to good to be true.

> jack where you can plug your headphones

depends on the unit. it is a nice feature if you plan to get some headphones that need the extra power.



Hey, I was searching for some stuff for the lost /v/tard on US sites and is it me or there are almost no online hi-fi stores in the US? And the prices/choice and amazon.com is ridiculously bad.

Here in frogland, I can get

* Yamaha A-S201 (165€)


* Magnat Monitor Supreme 102 (130€) or Eltax Monitor III (150€)

or step up and get at least recognized brands

* Tannoy Mercury 7.1 (160€) or Dali Zensor 1 (200€)

on son-video.com



crutchfield is the only thing that comes to mind, even though I've never used them.


Between a Motorola Moto X4 and a Samsung Galaxy S7, which would be better to go with? Price is approx. the same.


File: 22375627443879a⋯.jpg (100.3 KB, 873x1024, 873:1024, 1543437689099.jpg)

best laptop for under $600 ?

im looking for excelent display quality (no glossy and yelloish shit) and old gaming.



t530 with the high res screen and nvidia chip, don't get chinked and buy a shit model with bad display and no chip.


Is there a combination printer-scanner out there that isn't a piece of shit designed to gouge the user on ink prices or intentionally break down eventually to force replacement?





meh, a noy other model ?



t440p chinkpad has an optional gt 730M chip, and you can put a higher end i7 in it if you need the power.

I put AC wifi in mine(needed bios mod, whitelist cancer) and a 1080p IPS panel as the 768p tn panel was giving me GRIDs. the ultra dock kicks ass.

keyboard layout kinda sucks compared to olded layouts, that gen of touchpad is frustrating at times, speakers are... there. in winshit lenovo or intel locked down the vga out's bandwidth which can be an issue if you use CRTs or high refresh rates. haven't looked into a workaround.

I'm happy with it, considering I've much worse.



>considering I've much worse.

I've used much*


File: 8c9198f5af4a518⋯.png (342.33 KB, 993x493, 993:493, ClipboardImage.png)


>best laptop for under $600

Have you considered a desktop? That said, depending on your priorities, you might either want a true thin-and-light (no real GPU but plenty of battery life and easy to carry) or (depending on what games are retro enough for you) some gaymer PC like pic related.

Whatever you do, install your own OS (even if it's Windows) to avoid bloat.


I'm going to restate my retarded dumb question. If I want to make a 5.1 setup out of bookshelf speakers and an amp, instead of buying logitech shit, how do I get the behavior of "plug headphones to mute speakers" that I would get with PC speakers? Do I have to buy something separate (like an audio "switch") that has this behavior? If so what is it called?




I also have to mention that at $600 you'd be hard-pressed to find excellent display quality. And there's the element of choice (I like anti-glare).

You'd be looking at 1080p IPS, which sure, is much better than 768p TN, but "excellent display" is 1440p or 4K OLED (not to be confused with LED backlit!), which just doesn't exist for that price. Unless you buy an excellent display for your desktop now and later upgrade that.


What's a good mouse that looks plain, doesn't require software, and has forward/back buttons and a minimum DPI "sniper" button? Lights are optional though I'd prefer they not be there. Plain looks are non-negotiable, as is the lack of third party software. Wired preferred but I can manage with wireless.



>doesn't require software

Does any mouse require software? Software for a mouse is just there for programming macros, RGB shit, and setting which DPIs the DPI button toggles between. Things which you couldn't easily do in hardware. In other words, just buy whatever mouse and don't pay attention to the software. USB HID is universal.


Does anyone still make decent PS/2 mouses?



>Does anyone still make decent PS/2 mouses?

A few companies who used to make PS/2 mice a few decades ago still exist, yes.



deathadder elite fits that bill if you're willing to use some software to turn off the leds





Good Z390 mobos that are not Gigabyte?



Do Razer products save settings to the device or does it read settings from the software?



it saves the LED settings on my mouse. unsure about dpi/polling rate


File: 3dd0dceb4e4ac4c⋯.jpeg (27.25 KB, 474x616, 237:308, iu.jpeg)

Does it still make sense to get iPhone SE in 2019?

>I like the form factor, and it’s either iPhone or Android botnet



>Does it still make sense to get iPhone SE in 2019?

It have never made sense to get an iPhone.

Better buy one of these:



or just wait for libre hardware from the ground phone.



What is email management like in Replicant or Purism?

Comparing iPhone to Android, I think using email is better on iPhone. What do anons think?


File: 80ac451cbc5c8f2⋯.png (70.26 KB, 785x747, 785:747, dc937e1974746759739b08e811….png)


just find a mail program that you like.



I'm used to BlackBerry, so an excellent email client is included with an easy email management for multiple accounts and identities. Does Android offer this? I know that it is available in a native iPhone mail app.


File: 832afc5e46688b8⋯.jpg (8.72 KB, 211x367, 211:367, what to say.jpg)


>Don't go for pi. Use arduino.

That's like saying "don't go for Dyson fans. Use Noctua"


I need a book about learning C++


File: 6b448e4d69275e9⋯.png (157.38 KB, 300x376, 75:94, ClipboardImage.png)


>I need a book about learning C++



Since you are asking I assume you have never programmed C++ at all, in which case I recommend just following the learncpp tutorial




>CUDA jobs

Even the regular consumer cards run most CUDA programs just fine, its only the exotic code which 99.9% of CUDA developers will never use that only runs on the Quadro/Tesla cards.


They are often just consumer cards with extra features in software, ECC for GDDR doesn't exist because of how GDDR works so its emulated in software, consume cards have the hardware to provide Nvidia Direct but its locked away, etc.





I’ve been following online tutorials and videos for a while and need something hardcover to rest and bring with me


Looking for a monitor for pro photo editing. I have 800 euros to spend. Any suggestions?


I'm looking for a PCI-E bluetooth card. I would very much prefer one with a linux kernel driver and open firmware. Anyone have ideas?


File: bec9f1fd9082f29⋯.jpg (34.41 KB, 500x500, 1:1, hdfury_splitpro_4k_uhd_pro….jpg)

Guys, where can I find a splitter/scaler that scales 2160p at 60Hz to 1440p at 60Hz?



probably amazon



>I’ve been following online tutorials and videos for a while and need something hardcover to rest and bring with me

Bjarne Stroustrup's (the creator of C++) book is probably the best for what you want then. Bjarne Stroustrup is the creator of C++.



I'm working in a warehouse. The company policy is you can listen to media via headphones, but you have to keep one ear open. A lot of those noise-cancelling headphones can be used like hearing aids and supplement your chosen sound with that of the outside world. Is it effective? Or does it sound so bad that I should suffer in silence?



Likely not exactly what you're looking into but I have a pair of Howard Leight R-01902. It has a compression circuit on outside-sourced sound. This hinders your natural distance perception and sound localization. Not ideal in a warehouse where you want to know whether a forklift is 100 feet away or just about to boop your head with a pallet. Audio quality reminds me of my HD-201 headphones which I'd price around 20 or 25 USD. Keep in mind that these are for indoor shooting ranges so maybe "lighter" muffs would have less aggressive compression and would be more comfortable, e.g. the R-01526 (if we're staying in the same product line; haven't tried them though).


Best modem under 200, preferably under 100?


File: fab81d1511d6ba2⋯.jpg (163.74 KB, 1600x612, 400:153, pls.jpg)

I want one of these but at least 80x20 characters. Ideally it would be ~16 inches by ~4 inches. Does such a thing exist? Not flooding tbh


File: 41d8e23f79991be⋯.jpg (10.42 KB, 282x272, 141:136, logitech m280 wheel.jpg)

>wheel for corsair m65 broke (the actual plastic bar that's connected to the middle click)

>no proper replacement wheel found for sale, can't fix the old one

would it be dumb to replace it with a wheel meant for a different mouse? pic related has the closest design to the original one but I still don't know if it will even fit



>can't fix the old one

epoxy is your friend.


I want a keyboard that's really quiet. Quieter than a membrane. I could probably get one of those Quietkeys, but I think a mechanical with lubed Zilents is probably better in terms of longevity and feel if only comparable to the membranes. Honestly, I'd just prefer the deeper sound signature of the mechanical to that of a membrane were clickyness not a factor.

Kbdfans has some customs you can select Zilents for, but I kind of want an ortholinear. I'm not super stuck on it, but I feel like ortholinear looks nicer. Maybe it's not worth buying the special PCB and all that just for looks.

The issue mostly is that I don't have any devices to solder the switches to the PCB, and I want to know what I should consider buying for some basic bitch soldering. I've been meaning to buy a cutting mat with a grid (24x18 or something in that range) for other hobby reasons, but I don't think the cheap self-healing ones online will do the trick for spills and other mishaps. Maybe the rigid will be better? I just wonder what the rubber will do in the heat. None of the silicone mats have grids on them, I don't think? I have a desk fan and a really old iron from when ilI was a kid, but nothing to hold an iron and spinge Push come to shove, I'm willing to do this caveman style on the sidewalk like all the other crackheads, but a bunch of Zilents and a fancy PCB is kind of a big investment for a hobby I'm really not interested in beyond getting a quiet keyboard. Please send help.



Get a soldering station with digital temperature control and an an antistatic mat for soldering. You might think it's too expensive and you'll never have an use for that crap but it's such an useful skill to have. At the very least you can make your own cables, you can repair others, you can modify them (putting switches in them for example) and you can fix broken off/used up connectors. It's incredibly useful and will pay back over the years guaranteed. I can't even tell you how many things I've (easily) repaired others would've just thrown away. I even got a huge FullHD LED screen for my bedroom for a pittance just because I could replace some capacitors. (which costed about two bucks)

A good soldering station will also pretty much last forever. Somebody is gonna inherit it one day. That's how long they last.


File: a7456e542019876⋯.jpg (773.82 KB, 1263x1920, 421:640, 843d591f4b6b242fead7c2a959….jpg)

Laptop question.

Old high end or new mid range ?, which one has the best performance/bux ratio?



can somone redpill me about thinkpads bios ? they seem to be locked or something.




Lenovo, and others, decided they needed to make a bios whitelist for approved accessories due to some FCC law that they, and the others, interpreted weirdly.

some companies see this as

<laptops can only be supplied by us with FCC approved wireless chipsets

and the others seem to have a shitty mindset

<our laptops can only use OUR FCC approved chipsets, so we'll use our own versions of the card.

sometimes it's more lenient but you get the idea.

so you go and buy card 1235 for your laptop and it only supports 1234. even though both 1235 and 1234 have the same wireless chipset with the same FCC cert, 1234 is the only one of the two in the whitelist because it's the one sold by [company] so you're fucked. it wont even past POST with it in the system.

at this point you have two options, buy a cheap chip programmer/use GPIO to mod bios and nuke what warranty you have, or buy their bullshit card at an insane markup.


if you're worried about it, just lookup the model/brand beforehand.



Does it mean i can't replace the HDD or add more ram?



the only whitelist I've come across is for networking cards.


I dont get the whole server rack 4U, 12U notation. I have 7 HDDs I wanna put into a NAS build, does that mean I need an 8U unit.

Anyway, any recommendations? I probably want to upgrade to add a few more HDDs. What mobo, case, etc?



Us are a standardized unit of height, not of number of drive bays



Mouse sensitivity needs to stay at default 6/11



buy mid-range laptops with Radeon RX 560X/RX 570. They cost around $600 or less with coupons for a Class 2/1 GPU.

Chances are old high ends have good i7 CPUs but very poor graphics unless you manage to find a wrongly-priced high-end gaming one at a pawnshop.



Then it's slow as molasses, what remedy is that supposed to be?

Is there literally no way to increase DPI/cursor speed for this mouse?


I have the same mouse with a 4k resolution desktop and speed is fine. Did you get a chinese knockoff? The chinese have started copying it.


I have 7 HDDs I wanna put into a NAS build. Any recommendations? I probably want to upgrade to add a few more HDDs. What mobo, case, etc? I'm looking for a cheap option, and would even do no case if thats possible



if that's an intellimouse 1.1 it has a 400dpi sensor.

400dpi would feel slow as shit with a modern resolution.


do you have mouse acceleration on?


File: 3488bdb6093a43e⋯.jpg (43.38 KB, 661x742, 661:742, antena-ubiquiti-airmax-mim….jpg)

File: eec8e575a12a8ed⋯.png (828.25 KB, 1200x1200, 1:1, zoneflex-t710.png)

3 Questions.

1. I have a bunch of hard drives I got from work, what should I do with nearly 20 terabytes of storage? I have mostly WD drives, but a couple of toshiba and seagate are in there, along with laptop drives.

2. Should I wait for Zen 2 7nm for workstation/emulation, or get an intel? How close would it be to threadripper levels? I do want to get a 1080ti for gaming and shit, and a Radeon 7 for workstation tasks, would that be fine?

3. I want super long range wifi, should I go with Ruckus or Ubiquiti? Spectrum always uses ruckus, so I feel that might be better, but I don't know how it conpared to ubiquiti.



>1. I have a bunch of hard drives I got from work, what should I do with nearly 20 terabytes of storage?

Download and store high quality child pornography. you can also share it to others

>2. Should I wait for Zen 2 7nm for workstation/emulation, or get an intel?

both are botnet and will send your keystrokes to Tel Av-iv

>3. I want super long range wifi, should I go with Ruckus or Ubiquiti?

wifi is a botnet


File: 1e31e5ac95522e2⋯.jpg (463.45 KB, 1440x1874, 720:937, Screenshot_20190116-230756….jpg)


Based anon. Wants to keep my possible CP collection safe.


>>1023738 The person looks yummy. I can kill and eat him.


Here is some consumer advice: do not buy Apple products.



Is this worth it for what it offers? Even possibly with 4G?



Doesn't truly fit in your pocket so you may as well get a small laptop. Cheaper, better battery life, better support.


My computer has been having major issues. Came home one day to find it being super slow.

Bought a new processor, i7-4790k, and it still hasn't improved.

Leads me to think it's the motherboard. What motherboard should I replace it with?

I have an i7-4790k, GTX 1060, 32GB of RAM, and a Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced case.



What do you mean by "super slow" and does it persist while you run a live distro (or outright reinstall your OS, in case you've already tried)?



Came back one day, computer was still on. I could move the mouse, but all of the sudden, tabs would load, files wouldn't open, etc.

I restarted it, or, tried to, and now my PC takes upwards of 2 hours to even get into a login screen. It lags so heavily with every single keystroke I make. I can't even get in to uninstall and reinstall the OS.



Harddrive maybe? SSD or mechanical?



Mechanical. I couldn't afford an SSD at the time.



>I can't even get in to uninstall and reinstall the OS.

Then run a live OS, see if that is also subject to the same problems. And stop swapping out parts before you've actually figured out what the problem is.



How do I run a live OS? Or can I just Google that?



Yeah; I would have pointed it out but I assumed that everyone on /tech/ had at some point booted a live CD (or USB; it is the current year, after all). Probably type ubuntu live usb into a search engine.


File: 7e94a0ae8c388c1⋯.jpg (36.49 KB, 640x360, 16:9, med_1454212649_image.jpg)

Is there a data storage that can last forever?

If not, which one last the longest?




you bought a new cpu, you have 32GB of ram and you didn't buy a $35 128GB SSD?

get one and do a fresh install


Recommended vps hosting platform?



Depends on what you want to do. I've had decent experiences with DigitalOcean (U.S.) and Scaleway (Europe).



Try mdiscs



What good are mdiscs if in merely 15 or 20 years from now your own optical drives theoretically capable of reading them will be either defective or unsupported by then-current hardware, and a working replacement allowing you to actually read anything off of the discs will cost an obscene amount of money? You have to keep migrating data to currently supported media, "long term media" is a deadend because of the above problem.



Are you actually >>1024512 or are you just pretending to be him?



Neither. Just made a remark that with removable media such as optical discs there is the issue of needing a drive which is both generally functional and supported by hardware existing/available at a given time.



It's better to stick with a HDD which is very unlikely to fail unexpectedly than to buy cheapass TLC SSDs.



>Is there a data storage that can last forever?

Entropy tends to increase in any system, so no.




>cost per GiB larger than decent SSD

>need to fuck around and burn it

>is write-once only

>need a drive to read it, which is both slow and in the long run has problems described by >>1024627



No, there is not. The most resilient data storage possible is one where data is constantly moving around and being copied and written to different devices specifically because some of those devices are guaranteed to fail eventually.

The longest lasting data storage is copy.



Happy with Kimsufi (the self-service offering of OVH).


I don't completely agree with "that shit won't be readable in x years" as you can still access old tape, floppy disks (actual floppy disks, not 3,5") and even MFM harddrives and punch cards. Sure it's not cheap, plug 'n play or idiot proof, but the know-how and technology is out there and relatively easy to find. I'm almost certain the future will probably come up with ways to access shit of today too, even if it's just out of technical curiosity. Flash will be less reliable than many of these technologies, though.

For fire-and-forget long term storage the only secure way is writing on paper, in a common language. If done correctly, that shit will be accessible in 100 years. If you want to somewhat automatize it, dot matrix printers or a typewriter as their way of printing will not fade with time. You can store it in a safe deposit box. Several if it's exceedingly important.

For your animu rips and 96 kbit video game mp3s from the early '00s? Multiple copies you keep updating over the years to whatever technology is en vogue then. Everything else is lying to yourself. The mdisc company went bankrupt a few years ago.



this is better for real long term storage


they might be exaggerating about that durability though, nothing lasts for a billion years without any clearly noticeable atomic decay and then structural fatigue warping if kept above zero kelvin, no matter what "supercrystal" they use.

Obviously if you want it readable in a billion years you will need it to be like DNA containing its own "folding" and reading instructions.



I've been using Vultr a couple of months now with out issues.


I don't know much about audio, is it worth it to add a subwoofer? I have 2 sound systems that could use one maybe. There are some Sony ones that seem good and have an affordable price.



If your sound system doesn't support adding one you shouldn't mess with it since you're not an expert. If you don't care about breaking it that's a different story.


File: 30787ed9e2c06aa⋯.png (88.41 KB, 604x516, 151:129, 30787ed9e2c06aaabcc0dfa554….png)

Is the Thinkpad E480 good ?



what are your sound systems?

you can find the speakers frequency response on them or by looking up their model.

generally consumer subs will handle <200Hz or so, just consider if it's worth it.


File: d2cde8cbb2fe6cd⋯.jpg (9.19 KB, 372x246, 62:41, this fucker.jpg)

I want to get a PC speaker for my desktop (the kind that beeps and is plugged into the motherboard, not audio jack speakers). Does it matter what I get or should I grab one for a buck from china?




The better one is a cambridge audio azur 550a. It's superb imo. The other one is a much cheaper panasonic one, it's good, but nothing like the first one.

I didn't knew about frequencies nor that I could braek them... Thanks.



I mean, adding a channel to a prefab amp is pro tier, but adding a speaker to a cabinet and modifying its crossover is up there too



Doesn't really matter unless you wanna you wanna use it to play classic game with PC-speaker music or do something goofy like use it as your main audio out like you could in win95. If you want it for retro gaming purposes then I'd get one that is an actual speaker instead of the tiny plastic and metal buzzy bleeper thing.





File: 486f041d08f1077⋯.png (100 KB, 287x186, 287:186, edi.png)


>a prefab amp

>adding a speaker to a cabinet and modifying its crossover

I don't quite understand what these things mean... Is amp synonym with subwoofer?

Came across this subwoofer, someone is selling it at a cheaper price. It has a RCA input. Now, the manual says my system has a power amp damping factor of >100. The speakers which I bought with the system say that the recommended amp power rating is 25-100.

So if I'm not being that retarded, from this info, an 18w subwoof like this one is safe to connect, but it'd be better if it had a power output of 25w or higher?



Are you telling me you don't know what an amplifier is?


File: 16de829dcd13654⋯.jpg (162.42 KB, 500x333, 500:333, 2884995569_e363676187_z.jpg)

Thinkpad t480 or Asus zenbook ux410 ?

The Thinkpad is stronger but the Zenbook has a much much better display (its just that Thinkpads have been using garbage displays lately)


i'm finally going over to linux, which distro is recommended for first time plebs who need their videogames?






but that's memes



I always thought it was the speaker for the electric guitars pls no bully



>SSD with poor ass cold storage data retention for backups

Just plug it in once a year or so, it'll be fine.

I have flash drives from 15 years ago that still have my family photos on them, never had a problem.

I'd rather have two mirrored flash drives than one hard drive



You weren't totally wrong

The guitar speaker has an amp inside its cabinet



>Are professional GPU worth the extra bux ?

No, but:

1. The best graphics card with unofficial Windows XP drivers is the Quadro M6000 24GB.

2. The best slot-powered (75 watts or less) graphics card is currently the Quadro P2000.


>>1025734 (Continued)

And of course, you're not getting a gaming card with as much VRAM as a Quadro RTX 8000 any time soon. Forgot to mention that because I took it for granted everyone knew already



If it has a pre-Ryzen AMD APU like my ThinkPad E350 had, then no

If it has a SandyBridge or newer then it's fine

Can't be assed to look it up rn tbh


File: 7870e6ac0d17706⋯.jpg (51.67 KB, 640x480, 4:3, e135.jpg)



Avoid the E models, had an E135 "Edge" and it sucked - shitty broadcom wireless, screen glare, ran hot


File: 5f34aa5d36e8a81⋯.jpg (232.48 KB, 900x1352, 225:338, Plywood condom httpswwwdev….jpg)

Windows and Mint user plebeian here

I've got a relatively old PC that I've been using for 9 years until November when I got a new one, but I still want to use it as a side PC, and I'm looking for an OS that's similarly supported by softwares (games even) as Ubuntu, somewhat lightweight and easy to use once installed.

>Athlon II x2


>GeForce 210 (shitty passive cooled Gayward edition)



The E series have a bad reputation, but i only hear good things about the E480 (except for the ones with gpu which tend to over heat)

They say that the build quality while not as good as the T seriers is still far ahead of the average consumer laptop, and the display is matt this time, not reflective.



Devuan XFCE




How would you compare it to Lubuntu 18.04?

I tried it out in vmware, seemed to work fine



It works/10



Good enough


Is alibaba the only place to source pcb prepreg sheets?

Looking to make my own multilayer pcb's, and it's difficult to find any manufacturers outside of china that will sell to the public without quotes for large purchases.


Are the small 60% mechaincal keyboards you can build yourself a meme? I have a 122-Key IBM Model M Terminal keyboard right now and I love it, but I need a smaller second keyboard in another place. I've seen some very nice cases and keys on aliexpress. Is it a good idea or are they difficult to use for a long time and is a full size keyboard better? It's mostly about the size benefit to me, I don't have much room where I want to put it.


File: 575c414d9ba5ca3⋯.jpeg (439.52 KB, 2236x1255, 2236:1255, Cooler Master MasterKeys ….jpeg)


personally I'd want a nav cluster and F keys, mainly the f keys. I kinda like the layout of this coolermaster board as I like having a tenkey at times.

anyhow, just depends on your space, budget and needs. https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/product/f62-model-f-keyboard-kishsaver/ you could always get this if you're a richfag

pretty sure geekhack or deskthority would have a lot more info to go on.


File: dfdda28805dd751⋯.gif (99.16 KB, 220x218, 110:109, aQej9znV_700wa_0.gif)

Ok so my parents wants to avail a VPN for normie use only (netflix and region lock bypass, general security on public wifi, etc.).

What VPN service provider can you recommend?



Can I get some recommendations on USB drives (flash drives, thumb-drives)? It would be for smaller back-ups and occasionally transferring documents, audio, and video files. Thanks.



That market is extremely competitive, so choose a price point and buy anything you like



They've been commodized to the point of interchangeability for most purposes.




Alright, thanks for the responses.



most vpn will not work with netflix, if ur lucky you can get a server that has not been blocked



Nope, check reviews. Some flash drives are notorious for overheating and then dying.



Don't get a Sandisk Ultra Fit. I would avoid all ultra-compact flash drives. Many USB 3.0 drives are too fast for their physical size, they can't shed heat fast enough. Then they throttle and/or die on you.


File: 69f34c44595878b⋯.png (108.9 KB, 1000x1000, 1:1, CZ43_128GB_agnle_right_ope….png)


Decent RSS reader that has mobile sync?


Is there any ARM convertible laptop that I can install a Linux distro on?


File: 103ea4017631c98⋯.gif (61.03 KB, 500x709, 500:709, sansaclipgif2.gif)

I got one of these about 5 months ago. Aside from the charge port being miniUSB, it seems to be the best media player out there. The battery life on it has fallen to only an hour or two, probably because I have a habit of completely draining the battery and then completely recharging it very often.

Should I try to replace the battery or buy another?



Just buy a benjie t6 and slap rockbox on it



>no USB data transfer

>LCD off may not work

>no flash storage access

>manual install

>shorter battery life than a new clip+

I'm sure there's a better alternative if I were to get a different player



Take a look at what battery it has and then look around for voltage and form factor on ebay, chances are it's some default thing, these tend to have tiny lipos as these devices only need very little energy. It's always cool to keep using the old hardware, also you make an positive environmental impact.



USB Type C >> USB Mini >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Micro USB



Better than anything with a higher chance to fail in those 15 to 20 years, if the cost is worth it to you and write-once isn't too limiting. Mdiscs are readable by normal drives so they will be accessible as long as dvds and blu-rays are. SATA support could become hard to find in 15 years too.



got a transcend 64gig usb3. was a bit more expensive but still works. bought a cheap intenso 64gig usb2 rainbow line and it shit itself after the first use.



i started out on arch. dont believe the memes, might take some time installing but has the best framerate out of all the distros for gaming, and as long as you dont upgrade everything like a fool, its very stable


>cryptostorm staff can hardly afford $10k

say waat


I need a windows computer for school to run lock down browser, but all my computers have Linux installed on them. What's a cheap laptop I can buy? Looking for something under $200.

>inb4 Chromebooks

Has to be Winblows.



A vm in one of your loonix systems



would a VM work?

if so use LTSB, it's lighter.


Don't know whether or not to put in this thread or the /tech/ support thread, but since i'm looking into buying i'll ask here

I want to get a CPU for a PC build but I really have no idea what to get.

What I do know is that I want a ryzen chip.

My previous choice for a CPU was going to be a ryzen 2700x but am poorfag so not really a good option at the moment.

I want something that can play essentially any new game that doesn't require a super-computer to do (war thunder, minecraft, etc) essentially high end games that have a lot of rendering and what not.

I also want something that can play 1080p videos without any sort of visual fuckups, as well as doing some programming on it and other utilities that I can't do on my chinkpad.

Really what I'm trying to figure out is how much is enough, and how much is too much?

some details that would be appreciated is a tl;dr of cores, threads, Ghz, family, series, integrated graphics, etc.

also which one(s) would you recommend?

>inb4 google it newfag

>inb4 "minecraft"



have you tried hacking calling the system admin?



>can play 1080p videos without any sort of visual fuckups

A Rpi1 can do this if it's encoded correctly, don't even consider this an issue.

> integrated graphics,

AMD only has this in their APU lineup, just an fyi.

> which one(s) would you recommend?

consider budget after playing with pcpartpicker, then look into benchmarks on shit you play with the high end APU 2400G (no gpu)

if that's meh check benches with the 2400g/2600/2600x and find a GPU.

if it's worth noting, when I played games my R7 1700 was pretty overkill.



also I should note that for the gaming aspect, I would like it to reach 60+fps, run at least 720p+, and be able to full screen for my 24" IPS freesync 1920x1080hz monitor



so would a 2700X be completely overkill?



at the moment I have an RX580 8gb graphics card

one of the games I have that is resource heavy is hearts of iron 4, so i'd like for it to play without lagging



probably, but that really depends on what you do.



And that's why I have like 5 of those things.


Should I wait for Ryzen 3000 to pair it with a 1080ti? I wanna emulate piss3, bing bing wahoo and wii u


is there a point in buying a higher rated PSU besides lower bills and being able to push it farther? can't decide if the 20 bucks more for platinum are worth it...


File: be32c07dae8027d⋯.jpg (5.29 MB, 4400x2700, 44:27, VHS-Video-Tape-Top-Flat.jpg)


I am a collector of VHS tapes and will not have the space to house them much longer, but I do not want to lose some of the rare tapes I have. I plan to upload them to an SD card to keep with me and possibly some of the rarer ones for the public to have as I don't think anyone else has uploaded them yet.

The problem is I'm stupid and don't quite know how. I've seen 30$ cables that supposedly magically upload your videos by connecting to your VCR but I want to go further than that, not to mention I don't trust them.

I was thinking of connecting a raspberry pi to a VCR and recording directly through mplayer, but I'm not sure if I can directly output my VCR to mplayer. I googled it and found something about a 'personal tv board' and this just confused me.

If I may explain shortly what I want to do: I want to record tapes from my VCR to an mkv/mp4 format. If anyone has advice on what to buy and the process for completing this task, I'd really appreciate it. Thank you.


File: f751a7532f4e263⋯.gif (3.5 MB, 360x640, 9:16, 53f73cd85ce07b3f52f71db053….gif)

I'm looking for a device that can fit in my pocket and that i can use to access a VM on Amazon cloud. It also has to be safe so no Androshit.

Ideally i would've got an UMPC sadly they don't exist anymore.

So i'm looking for a Smartphone i could install Linux on and use it to access my VM.

Any tips ?



I also use Devuan XFCE. I use the chicago95 theme and it's all great. I also use qmmp for music and it works with my winamp skins I've collected.

I had it running pretty smoothly on a thinkpad with a pentium M and 1GB of memory and a dying HDD. I also have it in virtualbox and it will work with 256MB RAM but that probably won't be enough to run most Web browsers.


I had a clip sport that died not due to battery issues. It was a pain to open up and I couldn't fix it, but the battery is just a small 500mAh deal or something. Open it up, and try to find a battery of the same size online.


You might be able to use the 2200G APU, and you save a lot because you don't need a video card. 2400G would be a step up but you should just get an APU with the video onboard to save money.


I think you need to get a video capture device.




Been looking around and one of the suggestions was to get an S-VHS player and time correction device. This thing says it has both;


The question is, how do I connect this thing to a raspberry pi? Will I have to build a media pc to go with it? That could be rather expensive but I do want good quality for my tapes especially if they're to be uploaded.


I also assume to prevent loss converting composite I'll need a high quality card like this, but are there any alternatives? I don't want to have to build a media PC to house it as that just adds more expenses, was hoping to use a rbpi




>7 inch laptop

>fit in my pocket




get bigger pockets.


File: 324745bc31a8683⋯.jpg (164.71 KB, 1400x933, 1400:933, hx4700_ppc_03.JPG)


Dude seriously, i need something the size of a phone.



then get one of the Moto Mod phones: https://www.motorola.com/us/moto-mods

get the keyboard. Install Termux.



oh, the keyboard was cancelled.



I need a good and not too expensive portable 4G router which supports openWRT or at least has an ability to load a hosts file and block websites based on it. Any recommendations?


File: 5f24b2f2e1edc3b⋯.jpg (476.91 KB, 800x800, 1:1, ac68u.jpg)


ASUS routers then perhaps? I'm running one of the cheaper models with Tomato http://tomato.groov.pl/ on it just fine



I think he's talking about portable hotspots.

dd-wrt and asuswrt-merlin work great on the ac68u, doesn't help the overheating any though.



How botnetted is asuswrt-merlin on recent routers and are those fans somewhat necessary?



it's a modified version of the stock firmware, take that how you will. if you're worried about it dd wrt works fine.

>are those fans somewhat necessary?

mine idles at 70-80c, and has been like that for years.



Where do I get a tenkeyless wireless keyboard thats cheap?

Chiclet acceeptable.



amirite that current router support for openssl 1.1.1 is nonexistent?


File: 125498ed1827269⋯.jpg (296.39 KB, 1000x1500, 2:3, inferno-2016.47197.jpg)


>idles at 70-80c



This is laptop keyboard though, I meant desktop chicklet like thise old dells.


Just bought a elitebook 840 g1 with 256 gb SSD upgrade and 12gb ram upgrade for 150 usd. Please tell me i didn't get screwed.




Just kidding. Assuming it's in good condition, that's obviously a great deal. But you know that. You're just rubbing in your find.



That's very old, performance has probably been butchered by specdown mitigations



It will be fine for anything but gaming. He paid $150. "$150" and "high performance" don't go together.



anything HP scares me, all the elitebooks I've seen have gotten stupidly hot and had weird builds. if you're lucky it'll have an ok screen


>very old

haswell era still has plenty of power.


File: 4544dc28d4e9d1a⋯.jpg (482.6 KB, 1600x1200, 4:3, csm_Blickwinkel_630afc6d0e.jpg)


I take back the screen comment.



>haswell era still has plenty of power

The thing is, the older an Intel-Aviv CPU is, the harder it's hit by specdown mitigations




Also noticed my outdated arch linux on another drive being faster than what I use and it just got even worse now with Foreshadow.

cat /proc/cpuinfo
Use with an up-to-date distro/image to see if it's infected.

Specdown is to be reckoned. Older live ISO also have faster performance.

If you just want to entirely dodge the bullet, get intel Atom/Itanium CPU. I think few of the fanless Atom Z series that are sold today aren't infected.


You have be technical and install plasmamobile OS on Nexus 5X. It has options to choose on edge/neon/arch which is probably repo release cycles.

I assume arch/neon(ubuntu)/edge(alpine) is their respective distros or it's just confusing.

UMPC aren't usable the fact that they either have 802.11a/b and expired security certificates.

Gemini PDA or Dragon Box.


File: 085908676e8863c⋯.jpg (155.85 KB, 960x854, 480:427, 085908676e8863ce2f1cc6940a….jpg)

I badly need to get some new parts for my computer, as the motherboard is rapidly becoming a corpse Presumably it's the Mobo, my drives have suddenly decided they want to read/write inconsistently/occasionally not function at all. Given that its ALL of them, i assume it isnt just the drives themselves

In any case, I needed a new processor and motherboard regardless. I was considering waiting for the new Ryzen 3000 (Zen 2?) but im not sure whether it's even a good investment.

Currently I have an i5-3570k which is really showing its age. I primarily use my PC for vidyagaems, but would like to be using it for video editing, compiling code, and other such tasks. But this is contingent on dealing with my depression so primarily it's vidyagaems. Is there a reliable resource to get this sort of information from? Or would anyone be able to give some specific advice?

I also need the cheapest, most functional case because the one i have is abysmal, and i honestly couldn't give less of a shit about aesthetics.



Definitely get a ryzen with fast memory, definitely above 3000 MT/s



>lineage or librem5 ever

>not plasma mobile which is close to finished

>not pmOS

>not necunoS

>*cough* ModemManager + trisquel




Intel will get slower and slower the more exploits revealed.


File: e5e5083df11028c⋯.jpg (13.09 KB, 225x225, 1:1, 2b33befe736bb4879399731027….jpg)



Alrighty, though I still need to decide WHICH ryzen specifically to get (And which Mobo/RAM combo to go with it, but that's arguably less important)



That depends on whether you're willing to wait for zen2 (which is presumably coming in June)



The more expensive the better, since you're also going to do productivity tasks on it



I was hoping to wait for the Zen2, but Im fairly ignorant on its benefits over previous generations.


True, but im ignorant on the various Ryzen lines.




Also June seems rather far away to a man with a barely functional PC.



Then buy the best mobo you can find, then the cheapest cpu, and one stick of ~3800MT/s RAM. You'll have a functional system and you'll be able to upgrade to Zen 2 when it comes out



This, except I don't see the point in one stick of ram.



>most functional case

get something with dust filters, all I do is wash out my filters every couple months. haven't dusted out my system since I threw it together in july 2017. ymmv tho, I don't have pets anymore and run good furnace filters.

if you can't wait till the new gen grab a 2700x/2600x. give the stock cooler a chance too, the new ones they've put out are rather good.

if you're on a budget use whatever ssd you have now and get an NVMe drive later.



So that he can buy three more of the same down the line and have a good productivity machine, since computers also work with just one stick


File: 5f27395d4bdf9a6⋯.jpg (87.43 KB, 377x350, 377:350, Teal'c_COTG.jpg)

I'm looking for a fairly recent (under 4 years) an Android phone that i could completely flash and run GNU/Linux natively on.



None. The Librem 5 is coming out this year.



Too expensive and i doubt it will be available this year



Ten none full stop.






*then none, full stop.


I want to get a SSD because I'll start doing some prototyping in android for work real soon. Caveat: my computer only has a NVMe m.2 slot, no SATA so MX500 is out of the question, unfortunately. is the adata xpg sx8200 pro the best bang for buck solution?



I haven't heard about an m.2 slot that can't do SATA. Are you sure?



They also make it in m.2 format apparently



Or you are. Link me one.



I deleted the post because I know I fucked up



>my computer only has a NVMe m.2 slot

how the hell are you using it then?



it's a laptop that has m.2 M key onry. sorry oversight of mine, I thought these hardware interface bungles were lost in the 90s. so I'm using it with a 7200rpm drive on the regular SATA port, but I want to keep that.


File: 5886a4b72836544⋯.jpg (20.37 KB, 450x403, 450:403, 10918982.jpg)


Anyone ?



You've already got the true answer. Hanging around waiting to be led by the nose is only going to hurt you.



I was going to write out a whole section on the pit holes but the basic tl;dr answer really is that it's mostly impossible, straight GNU/Linux just isn't designed for android ARM devices.

I'd suggest if you really need it, look for an x86 mobile device that has good documentation and has been seen running GNU/Linux.

There is no good support from distros dealing with the already existing android market, and any attempts that happened ended in absolute failure.



What are you sayin ? I had an old tablet that i flashed to dual boot linux and Android

And both worker without a single problem, i don't see why it would be any different for phones.

As for x86 phones, Intel sopped making them and i don't see AMD going that way, i also doubt anyone is going to buy X86 rights from intel to make a mobile cpu.


Need a router that can do ADSL2+ (currently on) and VDSL (will be converting to in four months time).

What do I look for when picking a router?






A fritz!box


What's the best company to get new hard drives from? I know about hitachi but I don't trust amazon/ebay niggers when it comes to "just slightly used trust me".


File: 87d12327e0ca25b⋯.jpg (166.53 KB, 850x519, 850:519, BluePink.jpg)

General Yuri (Idol) Discussion Thread

We love /tech/! Please visit us!

Current thread: https://boards.4chan.org/u/thread/2820706



<off-topic cuckchan shilling

Gas yourself



Why not just post here? The BO is a faggot that loves cuckime.


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I need a music player app for Android that automatically downloads album cover art and can match everything up like Plex does, I'm finding absolutely nothing.



I recall blackplayer having some kind of album artwork feature.



I just tried it, it doesn't, it's only taking embedded artwork from my music

also check'd


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What’s the best laptop €500 can buy? Preferably something small and light.

(€500 = $564)



Try and get a lenovo X230 with a good cpu and the high res display then max the ram, You can also use the classic thinkpad keyboard on an x230 if you want to.



What's a good cpu? An i7?




It looks like the i7-3520M is the best cpu for that model. It's worth noting that with the x230 You will only get intel hd graphics on all models so if you wanna do gaming then get a w530 or t430 with the nvidia chip.


these are bigger laptops but are still fairly light they also support better CPUs but I think they are soldered






lmao, is that a doll? What's wrong with that womans face/head? Jesus asian women are gross



racist fuck



fuck off niggerlover.


>What's wrong with that womans face/head?

being chinese+photoshop if I had to guess.


If I was looking for a traveling laptop on a budget what would be my best options? I want something for watching streams, downloading podcasts, maybe light gaming (would be nice if it ran new releases but I doubt it's going to happen) through steam and gog. Basically something I can throw in a bag and if it gets broke that's not a huge deal.



>if it gets broke

Get a Toughbook and it won't get broke.


This is probably a stupid question, but should I buy the Focal Elex or 4xx? They both seem good for the price. I would like the Elex, but I kind of want to try out the planar meme. There's obviously a big difference in price margin, but I'm not gonna drop a lot of money just for the sake of it. Even though 170 USD isn't that much on top of 700 USD, I'm only going to buy one headphone to replace my HD 518's that clip in the midrange a bit in the right ear, so that's the only one I'm going to use for the rest of its lifespan (which is hopefully longer than the pathetic two years the HD 518's lasted despite no abuse), and I'd rather not have a headphone whose appeal is that it's fun or has an eccentric sound signature–that's just collector fodder. And, yes, yes, I know: Assdrop. But they do seem to be very positively received. I don't really care who retails it, so long is its good for the money. I would pay thousands of dollars if the price to quality ratio didn't plateau.

If the planar meme is actually true, and I can get an acceptable soundstage, neutral signature, etc. to the Elex, I guess I just won't waste my money. Also, I bought an O2 for my amp. Is that going to be sufficient?


Is a tablet a good laptop replacement? Any advice for an affordable tablet?


Anything i should change?



I just bought an X200 Thinkpad Tablet.


I've read people were able to put in as much as 8GB of RAM even though the specs say the max is 4GB. What RAM should I buy to get it up to 8GB. I'm trying to do this as cheaply as possible.


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File: de379c87577ea34⋯.jpg (69.33 KB, 640x428, 160:107, volkswagen_up.jpg)

I want to buy a new, small and cheap car. I consider these two models. What do you think?



I have one and can confirm that it can handle 8GB just fine. don't mismatch sticks though, mine didn't like that when I tried that.



you're going to lose a lot of money going that route.

have you considered a lightly used one with 15-30k on it?

I wish we had more small cars like that in the US



What in tarnation are you trying to do



get a Panda



get an NVMe SSD

pretty sure there's 2TB HDDs in that price range

that case is ugly as shit, no dust filters

>old GPU

I assume you already have it?



Thanks i updated it


Also the gpu is a cheap one i found on offerup that i was gunna use and resell when i could afford a better one.


Im a fucking noob when it comes to this shit but my goal is to build a budget pc that can still be upgraded to a good pc in the future. So my thought process was to get a decent motherboard and cpu first and then upgrade everything else along the way since the games i play arent really that demanding anyways. Right now all i got to work with is 600$





Can get a 2TB FHD laptop at the cost of lower but close gpu/cpu (Ryzen 2500 RX 580) at around the same price or higher. The card is out for non-gaming range.



How long can you wait? The Zen 2 CPUs are coming out in the summer.



>have you considered a lightly used one with 15-30k on it?

Yes, I have considered this solution, I have checked several offers and then I rejected this solution.


I do not want to turn into full my father mode xD



Don't listen to >>1032741, NVMe has diminishing returns, there's no sense in buying it if you're on a budget, just get a SATA ssd, they come in the M.2 form factor too if that's what you want. Also 2TB will cost you about $15 more than the 1TB you had - which is much better GB/$ but is only worth it if you're gonna use it. You could get a ssd and buy a hdd when you need more storage.

Also, with just one ram stick you'll be crippling your memory bandwidth. Unless you absolutely want to upgrade to 32GB whilst avoiding having more than two sticks, you're better off getting 2x8GB. And try looking for 2933 - 3200 cl16 kits, the price usually scales linearly with performance until that point. RAM speed matters.



last time I checked WD SSDs are pretty crap for the speed and cost per GB. the other guy is right on all points though, just make sure you get a decent boot SSD; NVMe or standard SATA. you can always upgrade later.


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not bad for a free one



I've posted this before -

Go to a local pawn shop

See all the laptops

make sure they work

make sure that they are able to charge a battery

if the battery is shit, you can always order a new one off of amazon

get a cheap 480 SSD and a USB case for it


a. Make an image of your hard drive and transfer it over to the SSD to keep your operating system and everything, or

b. Install Linux and start to lern about komputurs a littel bit.

I've done both a and b, but I don't use my "Windows" computer anymore. I am strictly on Linux now. It's free, I can make changes to it, and if I don't like a distro, I just install a different one.

--I have been trying to install Devuan on this one laptop, but it is calling for drivers for the wifi device that are not available anywhere. The drivers that I could find, were installed during the installtion process, and it still didn't take. I guess I will have to install Arch, which isn't a distro that you install in 10 Minutes with a gui and all that. It's all command line. I wish I had a script to run it though...


I'm thinking ov buying a minidisc player. If I buy one would I need to manually record things using the line input or can I transfer files to the discs? Will I have to use that proprietary Sony program that always crashes if I want to do that?



What's the cheapest laptop I can use as a mobile workstation? I need something that can run AutoCAD, Photoshop, Illustrator, Premier, Ableton, etc. Bonus points if durable and can be used as a drawing tablet and withstand outdoor use. I'm thinking around 3 GHz and 8g RAM should do the trick. I don't know enough about graphics cards to know what to look for.



You don't actually need a laptop, do you

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