/tg/ - Traditional Games

>>198749

good stuff, the hair can use a bit more highlightinh though

I always wanted to know and the answer is probably yes. Do I need to topcoat after I paint these. It always looks like none of the models I see are topcoated? Maybe people use matte.

I build gundam models. Also I've started trying to paint them. But I have a Few old plastic Dragonquest/D&D boxset minis that I have ready and primed. I'm hoping they come out alright.

Anytips for painting minis that are imparative other than "Thin your paints."

>>198799

Scibor miniatures, dwarf in steam armor

>>198825

addendum:

and Starfire the dragon and 2 of the dragon minions

>>198858

dat lookz like a qwality paintjob warboss, but da face on dat git at da top a' yer foist pic seemz overwrought

needz more red

>>198769

i do coating like this:

lay on a base color

go over it with a darker wash (can be mixed from paints with excess water, need not be ready-made wash/shade)

touch up areas not intended for shading with original base color

highlight appropriate spots with lighter shade of base (can be thinned or not, depending on your degree of skill)

>>198918

>endeg

*ended

>>198799

I'm quite dubious about this. They look too glossy but in a way they fit the kind of toonish look of these models.

>>198825

This looks quite good!

>>198769

It depends. Showcase models are usually not top coated, because the top coat can change the colors or make the models over glossy.

Gaming models are usually top coated because they're being moved, touched and abused in different ways (like buy throwing dices at them).

If you want to paint gundams then you don't really have to topcoat since they're just display models.

Also painting big robots without an airbrush don't really generate very good results.

>>198883

Awesome thanks. So highlight refers to adding brighter paint and dry brushing or just painting some areas with a lighter shade?

>>198931

Just started painting stuff properly it's a pain to handbrush. The work I've done so far is only satisfactory on my robots. I need to buy a respirator if I want to continue my friend urged me to get one for safety reasons. I wasn't aware how imperative it was even if I had air flow and it was outside. I would personally like to get one though.

My mini's I'm going to paint are fine since I am not using spray paint on them.

>>198939

I don't use respirators for airbrushing, after all I just use normal acrylics, not stuff with strong solvents.

>>198945

Acrylics are nontoxic but you still don't want that stuff coating your lungs. Just make sure to have good ventilation and you will be fine

>>198951

My windows are always open. Maybe I should get a simple mask, a respirator looks too much

>>198950

Thanks, metals are my weak point, I'm always unhappy about them. I think this method is at least working better than the way I used to paint metals with.

I like the biker, very clean paint job. Unfortunately being a wagecuck is hard and sometime I'm lazy to paint, but I'm trying to push myself, have so much to paint for my armies.

I kinda dislike the paintcucks who enforce fully painted armies, but looks like this is the trend, so better get it done. This doesn't mean I will rush and make a shitty job just to make them happy.

Hate to be that guy, but what's a good starting project for someone who's never done this before? I recently picked up a board game with a few metal miniatures and I'm terrified of fucking them up.

>>199005

>>198825

>catgirl

>dat face

>dat skin tone

She looks more like a Koopaling, to be honest.

But the colour schemes on your stuff is great.

>>199121

thanks

>koopaling

heh, she kind of does.

all the color schemes I use are just based off the official art on the character cards (The exception being Rex's Ugly Brother who I painted blue for the red oni blue oni schtick. He's ugly because he's blue, being the joke).

The catgirl has a darker skintone than most of the other heroes.

>>199138

Well, they're well done in any case. Whilst I know jack and shit about painting, I can imagine that it would be pretty easy to make those colours far too lurid.

>>199121

Do you have any friends who paint minis? If so, sponge off their supplies for a bit, and get them to give you a couple figs to practice on - every painter buys more figures than he will ever get around to painting.

I cannot recommend highly enough that you use a wet palette (baking parchment paper over wet paper towels works fine and is super cheap). Painting straight from the pots is tempting, but a wet palette makes mixing and thinning paints 100 times easier and will vastly improve your results.

>>199121

post a photo or two of these models so we can see.

For example Rackham models are very nice but not really good for a newbie since they have a FUCKLOAD of micro details.

Also models with lots of metals aren't easy at all since I think a good rendering of metals isn't easy at all to achieve.

Capes are good since you can get a good result with not so much effort, just with shading and highlighting.

Flesh… flesh it's complicated. If you have a ripped model like the one I posted in OP, then isn't overcomplicated. He has very defined muscles so simple shading and highlighting looks good enough. But if it's very flat (like SDE miniatures) it become a problem, since the transition need to be smooth and you need lots of layers.

In that models, I could have go full metal and have a metallic armor, but I avoided it, since light reflection on armors is even more complicated than the sword and to make it look good you really need to put effort. I decided to go for the red armor since red is the binding color for all my models in my Khador army, so was a ok choice.

Anyway wet palette is a good suggestion, to start I will suggest you to prime black or grey.

Use a good primer, stay away from hardware store spary paint, because they're glossy and cover the detals. See if you can get a tamiya spray base.

Personally I use my airbrush to prime, but if you don't have one, isn't really a expense you should consider at the moment.

Also get a couple of ok brushes from an art store.

Don't consider for now something like Windsor and Newton, they're very elite brushes for fine details and freehands. Get some good brushed, a couple of number 1 and a number 0 is what you really need. You can get a number 2 as well if your models are big. Avoid smallest brushes like 00 or 000 since they don't hold the color very well. Most of the time what you need it's a good tip and you can paint even the finest details with a 0.

For colors, try to get something like Vallejo game color or citadel or army painter. The craft paints can be ok for some things but most of the times they aren't since they're quite matt and the colors are a bit off. Normal vallejo colors are used for historical models and they're also quite matt. For game miniatures most of the time you want something a bit more brilliant so your models can pop out.

After that most of your results are about chromatic choices.

There are colors that looks good together and some other colors combinations are like a kick in the fork, but they're still good if you know what are you doing and what you want to achieve.

>>199216

Moar highlights. It'll be fiddly as hell, but some edge highlighting on the forehead filigree would help a lot, and maybe some blackline shading around it, too. I'd also drop some kind of wash over the copper scales, the highlight the edges of them some more.

>>199216

Maybe some very very slight highlighting on the gold rims? Maybe some more details on the neck like some strain or texture? I don't know, man.

>>199216

You could maybe use some transparent nail polish gloss for that sweet shinyness on the metals. But I'd probably test it on something else beforehand.

I just put a WIP video up on my yubtub channel. It's got some Malifaux, Reaper Bones, Gundam and Second edition 40k.

Figure you guys might enjoy the 40k model.

>>199445

What are you looking for? Good models are very expensive. Kingdom death as some gorgeous models, generic fantasy can look at ral partha or avatars of war. Soda pop has some mangas/futuristic shit, same as corvus belli. Pegaso and Andrea are good for 54 mm historical or pinups. Everything else, scout eBay.

>>199373

These aren't great models bit good to start. Look like they have a lot of mold lines, so first thing remove them with a file or a very sharp knife. The metal looks quite opaque, so you need to take a hard brush and scrape them good, so they become shiny. Aftet that wash them in warm water and soap and dry and you're ready to go.

I would start from the assassin and the guy with strange hat, since they have lots of clothes to practice layering. Leave the paladin last, since got lots of flat parts. O would paint him gold and white or gold and crimson but these colors are a bit difficult.

>>199503

Maybe some SAGA models, not too sure.

>>199445

for Warhammer there's a comic book shop near me that has crazy deals (like 66% off) every black friday and tons of old WHFB and 40k stock marked at old (reasonable) prices

Otherwise I like to stick with SodaPop Miniature's lines (Super Dungeon Explore above as well as Relic Knights)

>>199515

I'm pretty sure it wasn't a saga model though probably intended to be used for that or Dux

>>199445

if you're on a budget this may be right up your alley

http://www.em4miniatures.com/acatalog/Copy_of_Fantasy.html

you're reading those prices right. Converted to USD, that's 50 (fifty!) decent quality monopose models for around $12.70

monopose isn't the most dynamic, of course, but when you're building an army on a budget…

>>199445

1/72 figures are dirt cheap. There aren't a ton of fantasy or sci-fi mfg though

http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/ShowFeature.aspx?id=39

>>199824

Nice conversions.

>>199874

I suggest you to prepare your pieces in advance and when you have supplies you can just start working on them. This is what I usually do since otherwise I get impatient and don't prepare my pieces property. So while I'm busy painting something, I prepare something else and eventually put a bit of scenic base and prime. So after I finish my current model, I already have something fully assembled and based and I can just started painting.

Also assembling some models is a pain, when I assembles the butcher unleashed from warmachine it took me more than a day, since he needed pins, gap fills and cleaning. Especially the dogs, they were a fucking nightmare. I still have to finished the scenic bases then I can prime and paint. But it's quite a long term project.

>>199884

These ones I'll be working with don't require any assembly, but I'll keep that in mind. On that subject: aside from maybe doing the base separately, is it better to do a whole figure in one setting? Will doing it piecemeal - having certain parts dry well ahead of others - make it look like a trainwreck?

>>199891

You don't need to. I anyway suggest to do one part in one sitting. Like if you're painting the cloack, just do it in one sitting. If you paint the trousers, one sitting, etc. You will have enough time if you can spend 2/3 hrs per day.

There are also people who speed paint 10 models per day with OK results, it depends what you want to achieve.

Also acrylics dry quickly and sometimes you need to have colors dried well before proceeding to the other layers.

>>200174

Ooh, I like that cracked earth. Is the GW's agrax earth?

Anyway, the bigger base fits the figure better, but I'd still go with the small one misplaced 1990s nostalgia.

>>200181

My entire drive to convert and paint is based on nostalgia for stuff I only experienced through old white dwarfs… It's a weird feeling.

Thanks for the advice!

>>200184

Oh man, the 90's was a golden age. Bright colors, metal figures, weird sculpts, Necromunda, Battlefleet Gothic… I can't hear the Macarena without picturing those thin red rulers and Van Saars on the big cardboard tower, Fucking Van Saars - so much better than my Cawdors…

While I don't play any miniature game anymore the problem I had was that with every new figure I painted I got better and wanted to throw all my previous figures into garbage for how terrible they looked.

>>200291

>I have still have not received these.

Edit.

>>200291

Lemme get this straight - the package was sent by Reaper and received by your father, who can't be arsed to forward it on to you? No company on Earth could help you with that.

If I'm misunderstanding the situation and the company still hasn't sent the package, or it got lost on its way to you (or your father), then you should definitely contact them. I got my bones 2 package ages and ages ago.

>>200324

Are you really far? Cannot just go pick them up at your father house for Christmas so you can say hi to him or something?

No one really gives a shit about miniatures any where else on /tg/ so throwing this tutorial here.

https://youtu.be/K7yRS_AOouU

It's Happy Seppuku basing stamps and how to use them and the final painted results.

>>201033

Your paints are way too thin to just put 1 layer on as it looks. You might be better priming black and working up with slightly thicker paint. The blue won't work with that red, they contrast too hard.

>>201047

it looks deceiving. Since the blue was too intense I had to tone it down adding some pale flesh to make it look faded. So the effect you see was because I layered some blue + flesh, not because the paint wasn't covering the model.

But the chromatic choice isn't right as you said. Probably I need to paint it dark grey or something. Makinf the all model in flesh tones will probably make it a bit too heavy.

>>201232

It looks right for some reasons I cannot see your image.

Drybrush is a technique you use for rough textures like rocks, fur and such.

If you are painting smooth surfaces you should use layering and glazing.

I need to post my minis next time I work on them Gotta motivate myself. But they're so damn small. Gotta git Gud. and not get distracted.

>>201923

No mini is too small, just get a suitable sized brush. I wouldn't paint HO scale armour with a size 0, same as I wouldn't paint flames of war with a size 2.

>>201923

>>201982

I have my proper paints now. See unboxing thread today.

I'm working with some old plastic versions of some Ral Partha 1987 minis. They're from "The New Dungeon!" Set. It's a set for the Dungeon Board game that got later used for D&D box sets.

The minis I recieved are 20 mm. I think the Ral Partha ones are like 18mm they're not as tall and a little smaller. But honestly also probably 20mm but just older.

It seems I misinterpreted how big these would be. I'm not for sure what the size of the brush I got was from army painter, but I think it might be a size 0? it's small. I'll do my best.

>>203543

I was trying to clean up the rogues head and then paint chipped. I should go over it again with Green and NOT WHITE. It looks awful here. I used the purple on the cape to try to hide mistakes.

I worked so hard at this, but I defiantly overdid it. I wish I had a desk sitting on the floor and holding the models in my hand and looking down all the time is terrible.

>>203574

1. I primed these before I realized about mold lines.

2.I started painting these without a proper idea of the layering process. I'm currently reading and refering to the citadel guide.

I made some major fuck ups due to merely the start of the process was fucked.

I don't know if I can really recover these minis as they are. There is just far too much paint on some of them. I'm currently have a Mantic skeleton model drying with grey primer on it.

I plan on using the proper layer method.

I only have the basic Army painter paint set to use.

So if I want a dark brown I need to add black.

If I want it lighter I need white.

I suppose I'm going to need to mix brown with something in between??

What colors can mix into a very light tan or yellow bone color? I've been thinking about it but just adding white to yellow might not be right I think I'd need brown too.

>>203574

Yeah army painter is somewhat thick. It works ok in a 1:1 ratio but If I add a 1:2 ratio it's far to thin.

It's pretty easy to apply as it is. I should thin my paints more though. They definatly come off as too thick. They're close to what it should be but It's probably because I relyed on the idea that I didn't need to thin them because they flowed fine enough without water.

Also should I thin wash?

>>203543

>But I should of never tried free handing shit.

Yep, especially is you;re a beginner. You will freehand shit before or later but give yourself some time. Also most of the freehand you see are complex stuff. The guys replicate the freehand on paper for 5 or 6 times before doing it on the model.

>I honestly have never painted minis before this. But I really hate how tiny these are. I'm going to invest in one of those magnifying glass things and maybe a desk.

Isn't so necessary. Results will come as you learnt he right techniques. Best thing is to have someone to paint with, who can explain you stuff step by step. Second best thing, look some videos on youtube, you will see what color consistence they use and how certain effect are achieved. Third best thing, read stuff on internet. But words cannot sometime (most of the times) convey how some things are achieved.

>What colors can mix into a very light tan or yellow bone color? I've been thinking about it but just adding white to yellow might not be right I think I'd need brown too.

Eh fuck. GW had something called bleached bone. It was a sort of cream white. I will say, don't mix anything. Apply pure white on light brown, then wash with yellow and light brown.

>Also should I thin wash?

Some people do, some people don't. Usually washes are a bit glossy and you can put some water to tone down the glossyness. For example if you want to use a sepia wash on bones it will create a inappropriate glossy effect, but if you put water, will not be so glossy.

>>204081

better. You need to create some lights because your model is flat. Take a bit of pure white and put on on the ribs (try to thin is so it doesn't totally cover you base but is not so runny) and on the light areas of your skull, Also you can work on that mantle. It need more shadows and some highlights, because looks quite flat.

Don't be afraid of doing some extreme highlighting on the model, since in small models you need to extremise a bit the contrasts to make them pop.

>>204083

The cape I haven't even started on it yet.

I've already layered the bone a fair bit.

I layered it in flesh,brown,white mix.

Then did some shading, Then covered the bones in a browish yellow tone. I'll try highlighting with white.

I'm going to be painting the mantle red and the glovesas well. But I'll try a darker red for their base.

For the sword I'll merely drybrush on some metallic color. I like the look the black would contrast with. I need to highlight the buckle on the belt as well.

>>204243

Not bad. I can see a splotch of metal in the back of the sword that doesn't look planned and I would have liked a more consistent red on the mantle but overall is a quite acceptable tapletop quality model.

Ok what the fuck is up with vallejo's game colour black? it looks glossy.

>>205105

Shake it/roll it more.

Hey Tom Sorry for not posting my progress. I don't own any super glue and I think the Tamiya might melt some parts off some of the models. I might be able to use Tamiya with the orcs as they are big, but I don't want it to come out deformed.

>>207273

I need to paint something for the new year. I primed some stuff ready to be painted, but fuck me, I bought a gaming PC from a friend moving out of the country and I just played Witcher 2 in my free time. I really need to put some paint down.

>>203544

Just a question did you prime your models before painting? It doesn't look like the paint is holding anywhere.

>>207781

I'm not sure who these guys are. Are these humans disguising as orks? Internet do not say so much about them.\\Also, how do you buikld that stuff with plasticard? How do you bend it and how do you make pistons ans stuff?

>>207808

The diggas were humans that wanted to be orks in gorkamorka. There isn't a whole lot about them on the internet, as you said, so it's pretty hard to find inspiration!

The pistons were made from different size plastic rods, mostly. To bend the card I shaved it down and then just bent it, you know?

Does anyone have any good recommendations for a good primer that goes on smooth and doesn't hide any details?

>>207896

Gesso

It's like Mr shrinkwrap and Ms Primer had an illegitimate child

>>207337

>>207273

'Sup christmas buddy. Witcher 2 is a worthy cause. Also, Letho did nothing wrong

No new comments since current painting feedback is/was spot on, last reply was bugbear.jpg, you seem to have grasped the basic method you need to practice right off

every time i look at that Dungeon Saga skeleton it makes me think of Papyrus, damn it

>>210368

>Gesso

Thanks I'll check it out.

>>199445

Chinaman.

>>199445

Pieces and parts bought through online stores. Sometimes Chinaman for FW models because holy shit FW prices are ridiculous. I occasionally get kits from GW, but that's fairly rare as I can make most of what I want out of parts of multiple kits. Being Dark Mechanicus has it's boons sometimes.

>>210693

Link to chinaman's website?

>>211310

He doesn't have one, chinaman works strictly on email basis.

>>214369

He need much more contrast. Some washes in the recesses (targeted washes) and highlight on the junctions and general raised parts.

It's very flat.

At this point looking at the general work, I do not suggest more elaborate techniques, but some simple washes and highlights in the right spots will greatly increase the model. Also a brown ink wash on the gold.

I don't suggest drybrush, since this model is full of flat and hard surfaces, so it's going to look bad.

What supplies do I need to get into modelling? So far, all I've got is

>4 kolinsky sable brushes, 00-2

>Citadel paint pots

>some sprue clippers

>models to paint

I assume there's a more effective way to thin than dipping the brush in water before dipping it in paint, and I'm assuming there are better ways to suspend WIP models than holding whatever part's unpainted.

>>215166

Plenty of mixing solutions and model holder workstation things. Might be handy, but you sure don't need them.

Get some shittier brushes for taxing work like drybrushing that you don't want to waste the Kolinskys on. GW has some bigger harder ones that probably works.

Get primer sprays, airbrush if you can afford it/want one. It's very useful on larger models like vehicles, but beyond that it's kind of pointless for 28mm models.

Get hobby knives, drill, greenstuff and possibly a file if needed.

>>215190

>mixing solutions

You mean for thinning

>model holder workstation things

Any brands or models you can recommend?

I recently built my metal galrauch model.

23 FUCKING PINS.

And he doesn't stand by itself.

I completely forgot how shitty it was working with big metal models.

>>221087

As much as I hate perpetuating the stereotype that Chaos=spikes, adding some spikes would help it stand out as being Dark Mechanicus, because as it stands it doesn't really look all that out of place in a normal mechanicus or even a guard army. One thing you can do is paint on strange symbols or letters, to make it seem more alien and bizarre.

>>221088

Yeah, I was thinking the same, though I think I'll hold off on the runes until I make a custom decal sheet for my Dark Mechanicus forces. I forget the name of the dudes that do it but there's a hobby website (I think it was something like Fallout miniatures or something, their symbol is a gas mask) that will make custom decal sheets.

I have one of those Chaos vehicle accessory sprues to the spike fences will definitely be present.

>>221088

>>221087

Maybe add some glowing green tubes or tanks. Maybe take some chaos vehicle armor bits of mouths and stuff and put them on. Chaos doesn't have too many flat surfaces not covered in chaos stuff.

>>221100

Could add some fleshy shit with eyes growing out of the cupola or something.

>>221252

>>221100

Oh yeah, I'm definitely doing some mutated flesh and muscles. Some eyes are a good idea too.

Thanks for the ideas.

>>212059

> Guess where my dick is going to go?

> Trick question, I'm making a new hole!

>>222627

Very nice kitbashing

>>200190

Orlocks for life nigga.

The firepower don't mean shit if you can get into HtH or redeploy on the enemy flanks…

I never know what to do for eyes on human models without sufficient face coverings. Does anybody have some tips and advice? From rank and file soldiers to bad ass commanders I've got a shit ton that I've got no idea what to do with. Doesn't help that I'm not sure how to paint their flesh either.

>>222865

Practice and a quality brush, that's really all there is to it. There are a number of different techniques, but they all come down to a steady hand and a fine point on your brush.

>>222865

For flesh, get two to three flesh paints and a wash. If you're using GW paints, just grab the lot of their flesh paints and their flesh wash really.

As for eyes, it's usually best to do the pupils first and fill out the white in the edges.

Help me thin my paints /tg/.

I have a bunch of artist grade heavy body paints, what medium, additives and ratio should I use to turn them into miniature ready paint that still has a good pigment load?

>>223905

>I suggest you to use miniature paints.

Eh, they're overpriced student or craft grade paints, most of it's price is brand and packaging. There's a good reason miniature paints don't list the pigment loads, lightfastness and other qualities; because it's not a selling point. Most professional miniature artists don't even use them from what I've read, they just brew up their own pallets like any other properly trained professional artist does, usually from pigment concentrate.

>They have a too matte finish

Matte medium with an acrylic wash using tap water would do that, normally acrylics are a bit glossy but if you make a thin enough layer they will appear matte but it's really just the pigments being exposed.

>You didn't mention which type of colors you have

I have artist grade heavy body primary and secondary colors, most of them are medium plus, so they have a good amount of pigment and are pretty glossy. I'm looking for some good ratios, I was thinking liquid matte medium: 16% water, 4% retarder, 40~% liquid matte medium and 40~% heavy body paint.

>>214377

Those are gorgeous

>>224041

You have to remember a lot of us are scrubs. I wouldn't even know where to begin with that stuff so I just buy p3 or gw paints simply because they're easy and available.

>>214369

I recommend you have him paint his own stuff. He can't get better if you do it for him and they will be his "dudes" instead of yours.

>>224718

> wouldn't even know where to begin with that stuff so I just buy p3 or gw paints simply because they're easy and available.

If women exist anywhere within 100 miles of you, chances are there are craft stores like Michaels or Jo-Ann you can get paints at that are much cheaper than anything GW sells.

>>224718

Plus, if you're painting a big army, it'll be a pain to have to mix up the exact same colours every time.

>>224041

>Most professional miniature artists don't even use them from what I've read, they just brew up their own pallets like any other properly trained professional artist does, usually from pigment concentrate.

Yes and they mix sea snails blood and egg yolks…

This is a bit of bullshit. I know for sure several renowed miniatuire artists use valleyo and Gw paints. Like Bohun.

Maybe you're thinking about dry pigments that are used for a serie of effects, not to paint.

I think that kind of paints are objectively better (also you have premade mixes like flesh that is very difficult to obtain on your own).

>>224773

You really don't.

In a real life situation it's very difficult to have soldiers looking exactly the same. Some uniforms will be more new, some more faded, some dirty, some more clean, but usually dirty and retaining not so much of the original color. Unless we are talking about parade models, like some 54mm sculpts, that you eventually paint in a single exemplar.

>>198749

DIGANOBZ

>>225055

>>225171

Studio artists use the paints of the studios and get fantastic results. Winners of many miniature painting contests don't mix their own paints either. Fuck, one of the best painters I know, gentleben, uses almost exclusively P3 paints with GW washes because that's something no one can beat them at.

>>225376

Could always try to attach the guns beneath or on the sides of the powerpack instead. As for the helmet, how about cutting and greenstuffing it together with the bare head, so his face is visible beneath the open visor? Definitely a bit of work, but it would probably look pretty awesome.

>>225429

Thanks for the input, anon. I tried putting them on the sides of the backpack, and it looked a lot better. Still too bulky for me, though; I think I'm just going to leave them off.

As for converting a raised-visor head, that's a fantastic idea, but way beyond my skills and tools. I can't imagine doing it without a dremel (which I somehow don't have) and a fair bit of experience using it.

>>225589

>What grey did you use on that termi? Looks smooth.

I'm actually not sure whether I painted that Terminator before or after GW switched up their paint line.

If before, then it's Codex Gray base / Fortress Gray highlight. If after, then it's Dawnstone base / Administratum Gray highlight. In either case, I used just about every kind of brown wash I've got in the shading process, which is why it has that sort of warm cast.

>>226433

Sexy chaos dude. Nice color combo and silhouette.

>>227901

faggoty fabulous.

>>221087

Hey

How easy is that to work with?

I plan on orkifying a couple of their crawlers and i want to know how the plastic holds up