/vape/ - Vape

>>3741

Looks like every single mech mod to me.

>>3729

I like that there's virtually nothing to break on a mech mod, unless you run over it with a truck or something it's going to last you a life time.

At the same time authentic higher end mech mods go for $100+, it's fucking retarded. Why the fuck would I drop ~$150 for an unregulated dual parallel box mod when I can drop $40 on an rx200 that gives me the choice to change my wattage and mess around with temperature control with nickel/stainless steel/titanium coils? On top of that clones are just as good most of the time with at a quarter of the price.

At this point I don't get people why folks drop $100-$200 on a mech mod in 2016.

>>3731

the price of most unregulated boxes is just as bad.

look at shit like the tugboat

>>3732

Look at the noisy cricket. Series unregulated for $20 to $30

>>3760

yeah there are really good and well priced. I just think its silly that every type of vape related item from juice to mods and atomizers has stuff thats hilariously overpriced based on branding alone and people still buy them. true for any industry I guess.

>>3760

The Noisy Cricket is an exception. For every Noisy Cricket like mod, as in durable, well made, and reasonably priced, you can find half a dozen $100+ metal tubes with a 510 connector/hybrid connection.

>Inserted the black tube into the other hole and secured everything in place on the outside using duct tape, being to fold any extra over onto the lid and have none of it even close to the heating module on the inside. Then screw the lid on with the mason jar facing upside down, see the diagram.

>Then plug in the AC to an simple extension cord to test the device, If you did everything correctly after 10-20 seconds the heating coil will start to glow. Be careful not to touch it when it's hot. Since the circuit worked I unplugged it, let it cool for a minute then push some loose tobacco in the bowl of the module (see 2nd pic), be sure it's touching the coil. Since the lid is upside down from how it would be used on a jar it's not a problem.

>Plug in again and watch the magic happen. The element will heat up and the glass chamber will fill up with smoke, let it run for 30 secs or a minute, be sure to cover the end of the black tube with you finger so smoke won't escape. When you are content with the amount of smoke unplug/switch off the machine. The smoke may start to look yellow if you let it run a long time, this normal, like a water piper it will fill up the space and become very dense if left to burn.

>You can now enjoy ur smoke, take ur finger off the tube after you have turned the machine off and inhale. You will get lungs full of smoke ;^)

I have tested this machine with tobacco and herb, I used it for 3-5 months indoors burning both without any issues. Smoke was always smooth and easy on the mouth, lungs and had a gentle smell even when using tobacco since there was never any open flame. I never got around to adding a DC switch or voltage adjuster since I was content the simple design and lazy.

If a potentiometer was added the coil could be tuned to have less energy so it would come a vape and not a smoker, but I have not tried this. Sadly I had to fly away to another city so I could not stay with my friend and smoke with the device, I didn't take it on the plane for obvious reasons.

If you want to make your own here's the item list;

> car lighter with heating element, can be found at junk shops/lots without much work or cost.

> new it's about 2 shrekels; amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMS648E

pic related

> DC toggle switch, can be found a hobby shops or any AC switch (like on a lamp wire could be used)

> new with wires attached, 4 shrekels; amazon.com/dp/B00004WLKC

> DC potentiometer, this device controls the amount of power allowed into the heating element

> new, 4 shrekels, amazon.com/gp/product/B00PI6T2KA

> 12v DC power adapter, can be found in any thrift shop for 1-2 shrekels or box of old wires one has for free. I may have used a 9v adapter on the original prototype but 12v is what cars are designed for so 12v is the max voltage you should use. Don't want to burn up ur heating element.

> new, 5 shrekels, what a rip off. amazon.com/gp/product/B006GEPUYA

And ofc a mason jar which you can find at the food shops or if you want them new they are 12 jars for 15 on amazon, so 1.25 each. but srsly you can find them with stuff in them for without the hassle.

so in conclusion such at at home smoker device could be made for the cost of 2 shrekels (if you need just the heater) or 10 (for heater, switch, voltage adjuster, DC adapter used), or even 20 shrekels if you really need the parts new and didn't have a jelly jar. I'm sure you goys know that a v2 starter kit is 60 shrekels and doesn't even include a loose leaf chamber.

I really hope both beginners and pros try this outPost too long. Click here to view the full text.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Car_lighter#Use_as_a_lighter

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nichrome

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resistance_wire

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Construction_of_electronic_cigarettes

>>3748

Impressive

>>3756

Thanks.

The accounts of ciga-likes blowing up in people's faces is more or less a tempest in a teapot because people are already wary of them due to their association with smoking. The Li batteries in them are, from what I can tell, no more or less prone to failure than the Li batteries in any other devices - including cell-phones and laptops. Hoverboards had a similar bullshit over-reaction recently as I'm sure you remember, although a bit more understandable considering just how much energy all those cells are capable of storing makes them fail much more spectacularly.

So long as you have the original chargers (you'll probably need them anyhow, since I don't think there are any universal chargers due to proprietary threading), they should be fine. I might avoid plugging them into a PC or Laptop USB port, because on some of the cheaper ones, I've heard, some of the safety features might be located in the AC base rather than the USB dongle.

>>3736

> the coil is the right type for the tank

Isn't, I mean… the coil ISN'T the right type for your tank…

>>3735

>>3736

Yes, thank you. Here is the exact tank I have (sorry for linking directly to a store page - I really don't mean to advertise or anything, but I figure this way might provide more information for you guys than if I, say, just took a picture and posted that):

http://www.hoosierecig.com/Smok-Tech-GBC-Bottom-coil-tank_p_834.html

As you can see it's a fairly cheap tank. I think one person commented it could have to do with the brand of the eliquid I've been using, and I think they may be onto something. In fact, the very first coil I had in my new device had some slightly nicer eliquid and that one lasted a good 2 weeks. Since then, however, I've resorted to using some cheap "Go smoke" and "Njoy" liquids from the gas station.

Could it really be as simple as getting better eliquid? I know I'm not filling the tank wrong – dripping liquid in the chimney, as I think someone put it – I'm not doing that. And I don't even fill the tank more than maybe 1/8th of the way. And there's no "wiggle room" with regard to the coil or the tank's attachments to their respective components, they don't wobble around or anything. Somehow I doubt I'm over tightening them, either, although I suppose that's possible but again, it seems unlikely in my opinion.

Please continue hepling or offer other suggestions if you have any, guys. I don't have many coils left and the whole issue just happened again today, it's frustrating and concerning too because I don't want to run out and be out of any/all means of vaping for a few days while waiting for more to ship.

Oh, and the coils are 2.4 ohms.

>>3743

>because your tank just can't deal with certain types of liquids.

But why? I'm just looking at the amount of seepage right now – this is the 5th coil in a row that lasted me 8 hours or less and it's just ridiculous. I want to understand why. It makes no sense.

>>3742

>And I don't even fill the tank more than maybe 1/8th of the way.

You should try to keep your tank at least 1/3 full at all times to prevent try hits.

Someone more experienced, please correct me if I'm wrong.

The ratio is all dependent on your preference. Regarding the difference though,

PG is the flavor carrier, more PG means more flavor.

VG produces vapor. The higher your VG level, the more vapor you're to produce.

Nicotine provides the throat hit. The higher your nicotine, the higher the throat hit

That'd actually a pretty neat design for vape, even though you'd need a stand to set it upright when you're not using it.

I feel like this thread deserves more attention

It reminds me of that scene when Kylo Ren kills Han Solo because Han chucked the sicker tits

>>3724

V2

>>3682

i was linked to it here.

https://vine.co/v/emzm691rEQP

I gave you guys a shout out on today's >>>/icup/ matches.

>>3704

Heading to a shop later today. I'll try to find some. Should i try and find a high vg mix or just go pure vg? Also, is there any difference in flavor and hit with low/zero nicotine compared to higher amounts?

>>3701

Probably not a good idea to do with a full tank, but I'll keep it in mind if it happens again. Thanks m8

>>3705

Pure VG is good for the throat, but if you like your e liquid with savour, you might wanna stay in the pg line. I use 50/50 VG/PG to 90/10 VG/PG and i have never been disgusted by it, the worse juice i tasted where all bellow the 50% PG concentration. Another thing is (i read it somewhere on the internet…) that Propylene Glycol seems to cause allergenic reactions to a relatively small portion of users, that's when i would recommand 100% vg. Personnaly i prefer when there is a little PG in my juice, when there is less than 50% PG concentration i find it very delicious.

>>3712

>the worse juice i tasted where all bellow the 50% PG concentration.

Meant to say bellow the 50% VG concentration, or above the 50% PG

>>3712

>>3713

So I got some new juice a few days ago, both with something around 80/20 VG/PG, one without nicotine. Wasn't expecting the hit to be so smooth and heavy. I do like it though, thanks for the suggestion. Just gotta remember to get a little nicotine in them though, 0 nicotine makes me a bit lightheaded for some reason.

I drip just enough to see the cotton take the color of the liquid. If you see liquid go in the juice well and not being absorbed by the cotton, you can stop there and try a hit. But i wanna add that even if you flood your cotton, you can still take puffs from it, just it will risk to spit a littl juice in your mouth at the few firsts hits. Anyway, just to say that if you like how you drip and it doesn"t cause you any inconvenience, you are still good to go

You can usually taste a dry hit coming on. At least I can.

Dry hits are not insufferable. If you fear a dry hit, don't flood your atomizer, but instead take a shorter puff. Over time you will develop a sense for when a dry hit is coming, and you'll figure out how much you can drip in to refill it.

>>3688

but dude what the fuck I did google, and 12mg/ml was one of the lowest I could find!

trying to blow clouds on anything higher then 6mg is gonna burn your throat nicotine has a massive throat hit jus the name of the game and at lower ohms higher temps that throat hit is increased

>not chucking clouds with 18mg on a subtank

>>3685

>the cotton was way to big for the coil couldnt get it thru

This is the problem. You have bad flow in your wick. The wick needs to be loose or you'll get dry hits.

>>3689

nigga, you don't know how to google, there is many juice line with 0mg nicotine available everywhere