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Is CZ p-09 in 9mm a good first purchase for a gun?
Are there any 40s&w conversion kits for it?
Would you advise to train with fmj but carry and stockpile hollowpoints? I know that it's better to train with the ammo you are going to fire, but it is significantly expensive (jhp costs about 40% more expensive here than fmj), and I'm kinda poorfag.
Is it the pistol equivalent of manlet?
Sorry, in some languages pistols aren't named "fegyver" my magyar friendo.
Personally, if you have the money, I'd also get a .22 threaded barrel if you want to train and save a bit of money, plus you'd have a genuinely quiet gun with a suppressor. As for you question, yeah, probably. Don't know why you want a 40 conversion kit though. Yeah, also have some hollowpoint on the ready.
You're not going to find a new factory gun that uses stripper clips. You can, however, buy a gun that feeds from an integral double stack magazine and slot the receiver for clips. I've also seen people make stripper clip guides that bolt onto the rear scope mount.
And yes, the vast majority of modern bolt actions use a single stack detachable magazine. For some reason. It's stupid, but that's the design philosophy.
>train with .22
no, no, no, no, no, do not listen to this.
I kinda agree with >>616072 - training with .22 is not really worthy experience for a 9mm, or for any heavier caliber for that matter, from my experience at least. I'd possibly buy a separate .22 firearm, pistol or carbine, just for the pure value, but definitely not as a first arm. Maybe once I acquire a gun locker or safe or anything.
Thanks for the responses though. I've heard lots of good stuff about p-09 on yt, but that means that either the gun is shit (like p320) and is shilled hard, or it's a genuinely good firearm, and people are just glad they have it. Anyway, the gun looks kinda sexy, it's easily stripped for cleaning, ammo is cheap and plentiful, would probably indeed be the best purchase as a first firearm. And in case it breaks, Czechia is very close, I can go to CZUB office and wave the gun in their face "Hey bruddas, my gun is broken, pls fix"
22 as a first gun is great, just don't treat it as a substitute for other cartridges. Learning to shoot, getting used to guns, managing and handling firearms - great. Defensive training - no, unless you actually going to carry it. Also target pistols look cool as fuck and defending yourself with one is second in coolness to only defending yourself with 2 of those akimbo.
She's a fine gun, near any pistol from CZ is. I don't know about conversion kits but it's offered in both .40 and 9mm from the factory, you can probably call CZ and special order a conversion kit if that's what you want. I'll have to agree with my fellow Slav about .22 conversions, it's great to have a dedicated .22 gun to practice fundamentals for cheap, but, especially with pistols, the difference in recoil means it's not a training substitute for other calibers.
Respectfully disagree, mr. Cyka
In my opinion, having a .22 as a first gun is okay only in those cases:
1. You are a 12 year old boy
2. You are a 16 year old girl
3. You are a richfag and you buy your second normal gun 3 minutes after
4. You legally cannot have anything else
5. You are a soyfaggot who was bullied into buying a gun by his Chad pro2a relative/acquaintance
6. You are a woman peer pressured into buying a "gun" which you might carry but never intend to use
Well, then i'll add some advantages of the gun.
>cheap, important if you're poorfag
>hunting small game, especially if see above
>survival rifle, because weight and size of the ammo
>you only do plinking and ammo is the cheapest unless you reload
Your fair criticisms still apply, but only for someone who's going to rely on the rifle as a defensive weapon or train for this purpose.
1. Extremely cheap and plentiful ammo
2. Quiet with subsonic and suppressor which is the main reason I like it
That's about it for me but those are huge advantages among themselves. I'm not saying use a .22 as an end all, if that what's you extrapolated.
Favorite boots for fucking around innawoods? I have cowboy boots, but the ankle support is nonexistent and they’re just about used up.
>as a first gun
+7 (495) KOME-OH-HOW
To elaborate on my retarded post, .22LR is not a bad caliber, it's just a kid's choice for a first gun. Or for a really-not-into-funs person.
9mm is bad tho, but it's very good for training because it has stronger recoil, and requires actual skill and time investment for tight groups and quick and precise follow-ups.
I like the St. Elias Vasques that I wear, but you can check the boots thread for more details. Really though, anything that's Gore-Tex, leather, has ankle support, and a vibram sole will probably be just fine for general innawoods fucking around.
Didn’t see a boot thread when I searched the catalog, I’ll double check. Those were the qualities I was looking for, didn’t know if there was any top brands.
I think that's the American's point of view, the old Fudd gun culture that tacticool mall ninjas mock so much saw the beginning shooter start out at about that age, around 12 years old or so. There is demand for "youth" shotguns and especially 22 lr rifles because its a great caliber for the kids to graduate up to from air rifle, which they should be shooting much younger. Rural kids will be out in the country shooting at younger ages learning the basics, so when we mean "first rifle" and you say "12 year old boy" we see the intersection.
I still stand by my point that even for grown adults, the 22lr is a good choice to start out with to learn shooting basics, the fundamentals can be learned on air rifles and rimfire. Good quality rifle, even target pistols can be afforded by a new shooter, as well as bulk ammunition. A newbie should put 10,000 pellets (affordable) through a decent quality .177 air rifle then get a 22 lr bolt action and put 10 bricks through, 5,000 rounds, before he buys a big boi rifle. Even something like a Barretta Neos or other cheap target pistol is a good fundamental builder before buying a proper handgun. I admit too much air and rimfire can dull one's skills later, as well with dry firing, later on once one gets accustomed to proper full power centerfire, but even many serious shooters still find time to practice with them, and new shooters are best NOT dealing with recoil and blast and JUST learning the FUNDAMENTALS. Let the acustomization to the serious calibers come LATER.
S&W made 22 lr K frame revolvers for police for cheap practice and to help break in newbies. Some people and departments might even start K frame revolver shooters off with super light 38 Special target loads so they could get used to the gun and easy loads, then work the person up to the serious loads. The Model 10 may no longer be the gun that police walk the streets with, but there are lessons to be had from that time. Start people on airweight 44 Magnums they may quit shooting, or never learn to shoot properly, or more important, never learn the fundamentals and get them hammered in.
I get into arguments with people about how 22lr is a poorer caliber, not smart for self defense, should not be used for unethical poaching, ect. But the cartridge still has a place in this world, and as a first gun for everybody, this I will agree with.
What's the proper way to say (over radio) that your weapons won't work against the target (e.g., small arms vs. tank)?
Why did Stoner choose to go with the barrel nut setup on the AR-15 instead of having the barrel extension threaded directly into the receiver?
probably to add the delta-ring weld spring? That way you can change handguards without unaligning your barrel. Fudd guns like the savage screw directly into the receiver but the stock is an all-one-piece deal; if you want to change something, you have to get a whole new rifle. Sub machine guns don't often have a foregrip so screwing the barrel straight into the receiver and leaving it hanging, free-float style, is fine but if you want a place to hang a vertical foregrip that doesn't tug down on the barrel you need something attached to the receiver, like a barrel nut, to take the pressure exerted by the handguard and all its accoutrements, like your hands.
Not everything needs to have an official term, you would probably just say "we can't penetrate" or something like that.
In addition, I would imagine precise alignment is easier that way. The barrel extension needs to be oriented just so to interface with the bolt lugs properly, even a small amount of over or under-torquing and you could start to have issues with the bolt going fully into battery. You know how timing a barrel nut can be frustrating, when you need just a bit of movement one way or the other to not block the gas hole in the receiver? Imagine having to deal with that, plus the frustration of not easily seeing if your parts are in line or not. The index pin on the barrel is far more convenient to the assembly process.
Does the US National Guard use the M1919?
They started to phase them out in the 1960's so highly unlikely. Now it is possible there are some still sitting in inventory. I know as late as 2005 there was one BAR sitting in a National Guard armory as told to me by a servicemember. M79 still is in inventory and gets some use in the sandbox. M3 grease gun was in official use into the 1990's and is suspected to have been kicking around at least until 2008. Still some 1911's in use. At least one Thompson was spotted on board a mothball fleet ship a few years back. Tempted to write letters to all the local NG armories and ask them if they've got anything old or unusual still on the racks.
Upside-down. They're for suspenders for their winter trousers.
< If you knew in the past why EA is shit, then you should also know in the present why Lockheed is also shit.
Notice the change of tense at the comma, which is why it was placed there.
>Burgers knew that they were doomed if everyone could vote, that's why we know they are doomed now that they all can vote.
Is the layer of conglealed lard around your brain finally interfering with neuron activity?
>Tempted to write letters to all the local NG armories and ask them if they've got anything old or unusual still on the racks.
You're right; I will. Will post the results here if they even bother to get back with me.
What do different steel grades mean? What's the difference between 12c27 steel and anything else? Thanks in advance.
pic didn't upload for some reason
tl;dr their composition and physical properties.
Off the top of my head that stuff is specifically for knifes, as in it holds an edge well. Don't quote me on that, I don't deal with oddball stuff like that.
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Oh god, you opened a can of worms you don't want to untangle. It's all over the place.
Do you have access to a place where you can read DIN/EN/ISO technical standards? Look up the unified numbering system.
Anyways: to understand steel grades, you need to understand the physical properties of steel. Let's focus on carbon steel for now, just to keep it understandable.
But what is steel anyways? Steel is iron. Well, not only iron. It's iron mixed with carbon. Well, not entirely. It's iron mixed with less than 2% of carbon in mass added. Adding more carbon makes it cast iron.
As a general rule of thumb, steel is softer than cast iron, making it easier to deform.
Well, to understand this, you need to understand what makes a material hard, and to understand what makes a material hard you need to understand what hardness actually is.
Do you see now where this can of worms will take you? Some people want to study engineering and lose their way in the material science.
Many people have an intuitive understanding of what hardness is. And it's mostly correct. A piece of rubber isn't as hard as a piece of wood, and a piece of metal is (in most cases) harder than a piece of wood.
But what does it mean from a technical standpoint?
"Hardness is the resistance one material puts up against the ingress of another material." Please note my flag and that I am having to translate my technical vocabulary here.
This basically means that hardness is measured by how little a material deforms after you use some probing body to push against it. There are many different methods to measure hardness, and you may have heard of some of them, but in the end it's a massive material science wank-fest. Don't guzzle their cum, you probably understand better what hardness was from the first time you hit a concrete wall with your fist.
So now that you know what hardness is: what makes a material hard?
This is a whole nother can of worms, and it is one we don't even fully understand. The way we figured out how to harden Aluminium was because some fag stored a sheet of Aluminium in the sun, and noticed that it was harder than the ones he had stored in the shade.
But basically: hardness of a material depends on how hard it is to deform it, because if you can't easily deform it, another material can't penetrate it that easily.
This may sound obvious: hardess=how hard is it to deform it, but it's a little more tricky. Because what makes a material harder than others depends entirely on the material. Lets focus on iron for now, because that's easier than looking at Aluminium, Titanium, or even polymers.
But what makes a material hard to deform? Well, you need to look at the underlying structure of the material. For iron, it's simple: it's a grid. Imagine a dot, now connect that dot to four other dots around it. Now connect it to one dot below and one dot above it. Congratulations. You got pure, solid iron.
Message to the mods: please add Oekakis
But iron is never used all by itself nowadays. You always add at least a little carbon. Why?
Where in that grid of yours should the carbon go? You are trying to squeeze big black atom into that tight and pure iron grid. Adding carbon to that grid will cause stress in the grid, and adding stress to the grid will make it burst at some places. You will end up with places in the grid where an iron atom is only connected to 5 instead of 6 other iron atoms. These deformations of the grid are easier to deform.
This is how you actually forge iron. These imperfections exist everywhere. You don't actually break the pure grid yourself. It is already broken. You just shift around the places where it is broken by adding enough force to shift it my a couple spaced in the grid.
So adding carbon makes it softer, right?
No. Can of fucking worms.
Adding carbon makes it harder, because you are adding more places where the grid is impure. But wouldn't this make it easier to deform? Not really. Because if you have a lot of those deformations in one place they block each other, and you can't deform it anymore.
Also: adding carbon into the grid, and not giving it enough time to cool off (many many hours of keeping it red hot, and many many many more hours of keeping it sizzling) will cause the carbon to literally pop out of the grid and form neat shapes around the iron crystals, which will prevent your impurities from moving too far.
Basically, this is a whole area of scientific research. It's far from done, and I have wasted enough time writing all this. Fuck you. Go read Clausewitz and look up UNS.
How do I git gud at strategy?
You read memoirs of WWII soldiers and see what they did right or wrong. Then read books on military tactics, historical strategic geniuses and you then combine all this accumulated knowledge into becoming the genocidal warmonger you always wanted to be.
I also recommend checking out some more complex wargames as they really help to build imagination, a general imagination of 3d field of battle, roles of battalions, indirect fire support, supply, chain of command etc…
If anyone in the US wants a Baofeng, get it now FCC is blocking import and sales of non-compliant sets. This will also apply to any other brand of two-way VHF/UHF sets not in compliance.
Thoughts on the AMT Javelina vs. other 10mm auto pistols?
It's a budget 1911 clone by a defunct company. Not really much to say about it unless you want one as an odd collectible.
By the way, anyone have those screencaps about the Chinese eating each other during a siege?
can you recommend some? I know about wargame red dragon but nothing more complex.
By Fire and Sword is a pretty good XVII century wargame.
carbon and therefore carbide content
12c27 is a low-alloy, low carbide steel. So it will be easier to sharpen and have a tougher edge, but potentially less edge retention than s30v for example.
as for the names "12c27" etc that's just trade names companies pull out their ass to name the steel for the market. Sometimes there's a meaningful reason. S30V for example meant 30% Vanadium, but then they upped the Vanadium content to 40% but still kept calling it S30V because the market got used to the name.
if a steel has a bunch of carbon and alloying metals in it, then it will have big carbides. Carbides are like rocks in a concrete mixture. They're way harder than the surrounding iron, and therefore are way brittler and prone to chipping. So high carbon, high carbide steels have chippy edges. However, because they're so hard, they have "strong" edges as well, edges that don't bend easily, or at all, whereas steels like 12c27 generally have weaker edges that bend/roll. Generally speaking, bending/rolling isn't as bad as chipping.
12c27 has like 0.50% carbon and S30V has 1.50%. The threshold for "high carbon" is about 0.80%, that's where carbides really start forming.
You'll also see "CPM." That's a process of steel formation where they melt down the ingots and spray the melt into a vat that homogenizes the carbide structure. Theoretically it gives better toughness by making the carbides less prominent and more distributed, but I haven't noticed a difference in knives, S30V is just as brittle as 440C. Theoretically, the larger carbides of 440C can also promote edge retention by reason of how much larger they are than CPM steels. Think of using a rake to move gravel, and then trying to move a boulder with a rake.
the knife steel I use these days is CTS XHP. It's on the S30V level of hardness, and honestly I often wish I had a lower carbide steel because this stuff is harder to sharpen. It gets old quick.
Good explanation. When I got my Japanese white steel yanagi it was with the whole "don't fucking cut anything but boneless fish and meat" with more serious kitchen knife people very angry at me for even using it on meat and not just fish. At some point softer steels have their advantages, durability and all that, toughness, in some cases a soft piece of steel can be repeened and straightened where a harder alloy must be reheated or else it would shatter (if it hasn't already shattered instead of bending in the first place). Soft iron will let you know when its getting too much, harder alloys may not let you know till they fucking snap on you. In all reality, there is no "perfect' knife or one tool steel that is absolutely superior.
I will say, personally, I prefer carbon steel to stainless because even though it is hard to sharpen, it does hold an edge far better. I prefer fewer, harder sharpening sessions than to resharpen constantly, all the time, every time, having a knife get dull mid session. The right hard steel will hold a "work sharp" a long time. People who chase after 'perfect sharp' end up wasting a lot of time on grinding and honing for an effect that doesn't last long. Too much of this pursuit and wear a knife down to the point you change its shape, or even ruin it.
Combat Mission series
Saving up shekels for an ACOG, what's a nice cheap scope to hold me over while I wait? Currently looking at those prism scopes Primary Arms sells.
A used ACOG in good shape. Seriously though I love the PA prism scopes and swear by them but you're looking to spend ~$300 that could easily be put away on the actual ACOG? That's nearly a quarter of the cost you're looking to blow away.
Ended up just buying a cheapass PA red dot for 70 shekels, as like you said, the prism scopes aren't cheap. Looking for the ACSS ACOG specifically, and those don't seem to come up on the used market that often.
What type of helmet is this? I seen it in other paintings.
Magazine is probably for an AK; pistol looks like a Glock.
I don't have any screencaps, but it was from the Battle of Suiyang.
My first idea would be a dragoon helmet, as that's an imitation of Greek and Roman helmets.
Would it ever be practical to use big gauntlets in a fist fight or is that just an anime meme?
Not really. In a "fist" fight your best bet is knuckle dusters - they protect your hand, provide support for it and help concentrate all that force on a slender hard metal piece. They also do not weigh a tong, unlike this shit unless you make it out of some foam or shit for maximum comedic effect. Dusters could probably be swapped with prosthetic hands in a future setting because they are not weal fragile and flimsy human fists, but they're going to be the size of a real thing, not fucking boxer gloves.
If the gauntlet is a demon blast that turns people inside out, then yes.
not a question but if there's any leaf niggers around, your trusted and benevolent government requests your input on future gun policy - let them know how you feel
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How close are the tolerances for ar-10 parts across the industry; are they as close as those for the ar-15 or do I need to be more careful?
The tolerances within a certain standard are fairly good. However, unlike the AR-15 market there are multiple standards floating around. I'm not an AR10fag but I believe the three predominant ones are DPMS, SR-25, and Armalite-pattern guns. When in doubt, ask the manufacturer what standard of AR-10 their part is designed around.
there are 2 different DPMS profiles, high and low
DPMS High profile is far and away the most common for AR10 stuff, and is closest to being the industry standard.
Will the DPMS High take SR-25 magazines? Fagpul's AR-10 mags are SR-25 pattern and it seems to be the most common format for aftermarket mags.
thanks, that's very helpful
magazine compatibility depends on lower, the different profiles only affect handguards and uppers. If you're building an AR10, what you want to do is match upper and lowers so that they'll definitely fit together while making sure lower takes the magazine types you want. Then get a handguard that matches profile of upper.
Hey /k/, you guys have been helpful in the past so I'm back for more advice.
Currently I have a 9mm pistol and a basic bitch AR-15 as my main home/truck defense options. I have a lot of land and want to make sure I'm prepared for the coming race war. Need to be able to take down both two-legged and four-legged game to protect the family and feed them.
I'm thinking I need a proper battle rifle and a proper bolt action rifle in a large caliber. I'm considering building both of them from parts or buying a good base gun for both and modifying them for my needs. Any suggestions? Keep in mind that I'm planning on reloading ammo myself so I think that means a G3 isn't the best idea.
Also, is it worth getting a single stage press or should I go all out and get a multi-stage one to start out with? I've never done any reloading. Trying to get all of this set-up within the next year or so.
thats a whole topic in its own right, but a single stage press will do you just fine, especially for rifle calibers.
AR10s are the best cost to performance ratio right now, and you can get them in 6.5 cm. The cartridge's major downside is cpr, but reloading basically makes it the same as 308 anyway. Other options would be a parts kit FAL or PTR/G3/CETME. Also CZ BREN 2 in 308 is supposed to be out soon™.
This will really depend on budget and how autistic you want to get with long range accuracy. As a general recommendation, Tikkas are good for med to high end, savage has rifles across most price brackets that are all for the most part decent. Bergara, also. If you need absolute poorfag boltgun thats good, get a Thompson Center compass. A final note, for SHTF prepping, you would probably want both to be chambered in the same thing.
Also don't neglect optics for either gun.
>a proper battle rifle
>G3 isn't the best idea
AR-10 all the way.
>a proper bolt action rifle in a large caliber
Define "large" - if you're talking something along the lines of .30-06 or even .300 Remchesterby Magnum then you've got a massive amount of options available, more than I'd feel comfortable suggesting since I'd just get piled on for not recommending the newest weekly trend.
A single stage press is generally for individual round quality, multi-stage is for quantity, but that's just because the former is slower than the latter.
It's definitely a good idea to start small with the single stage to get the hang of things.
I want to be able to take any game in North America (well the lower 48). I already have a gun in 30-06 (an M1 Garand) and I'm fine stick with that cartridge unless there is an overwhelming need to go with something else.
>AR-10 all the way.
Should I consider building one with an external piston?
>This will really depend on budget and how autistic you want to get with long range accuracy.
I'm on the east coast so I don't need to really get autistic with that. I'm not looking for a bench gun I want something I can walk with in the woods should the need arise. I'm thinking of sticking with .308 for both just so the ammo is interchangeable. I'm willing to go 6.5cm though but I don't know if it gives a great advantage over .308 and I would be worried about being unable to source ammo should I find myself in a position where I could no longer make my own.
Concerning single stage presses, I know it's a wide subject but could you guys give me any pointers on which ones are good on a budget? I'm saving up money for all three of these projects but I don't want to go into the poor house either. I play on spending $1k-$2k on each gun but I don't know what a sane price range for a good press should be.
>>AR-10 all the way.
>Should I consider building one with an external piston?
Not really. It's not a mechanism that has any inherent advantages over DI yes I know it's not really DI but it's a functional name, especially if you're building yourself and using a conversion kit. Not trying to badmouth short-stroke pistons, there are some fine guns out there with them, but for an AR specifically you don't really gain anything unless you plan to suppress a lot. Main advantage over .308 is flatter shooting, and overall better ballistics, with lower recoil as well. 6.5mm cartridges are a meme, but they're a meme for a reason–high sectional density gives you better BC and with it better ballistics all round.
>I would be worried about being unable to source ammo should I find myself in a position where I could no longer make my own.
A valid concern, but I see it like this: if S has HTF, you can't make your own ammo anymore, and you need to scrounge ammo from other places, chances are wherever you find the ammo you'll find a gun that shoots that ammo.
>I want to be able to take any game in North America
.308 and 6.5 cm "can" do it all, but for dangerous game especially, you would probably want to move up to 300 winmag or 338 lapua for bolt gun if this is important to you. If battle rifle needs to be able to hunt big game as well, the best option is probably AR10 in 458 socom.
>Should I consider building one with an external piston?
Building AR-10s is already annoying enough, and there's nothing really wrong with DI. Piston ARs in general are just a marketing meme for the most part. On another note, you might consider looking at pre built AR10s as well. $1k-2k is certainly enough to get something decent there.
>I'm willing to go 6.5cm though but I don't know if it gives a great advantage over .308
Its a memeround, but also a goodround. Pretty much a pure upgrade over .308. The only negatives are the aforementioned increased cost (which is negated with reloading) and increased barrel wear.
>Concerning single stage presses, I know it's a wide subject but could you guys give me any pointers on which ones are good on a budget?
Again, define budget. Lee kits are great, especially when on a strict budget. Buying kits is usually the best way to get into reloading, unless you want the gucciest of everything. Hornady and RCBS have good kits for their single stages as well. I think lyman has a new kit featuring their not-t7 turret press that might be worthwhile as well.
TL;DR: when it comes to reloading, there's very little that is actually junk. Lee stuff has a bad rep for being cheap, but there's actually a lot of Lee things that I prefer over the competition (ex: lee's factory crimp die). It comes down to preference and your particular reloading practices to decide whats best for you. I wish there was a reloading thread up…
>AR10 in 458 socom
AR15, i mean
Okay thanks for your time guys it has been helpful. By "budget" I mean that I don't want to be in the mid-range, whatever that is. I don't care about cheap or having the best I just want something that works and that I can source parts for should the need arise.
While I have you guys; I've always been an iron sights kind of guy but for this AR-10 build I'm finally going to get some proper optics. Any basic tips of those you guys could share? I've only played with a basic red dot before and I liked it. I want options meaning I want to have range and be able to hit things up close as well. I'm thinking about an ACOG maybe but again I'm a total newbie with this stuff. I will have backup irons on it of course.
I guess it would be a good idea to ask about what would be best for the bolt gun as well. I've used scopes before but I've never bought one for myself and I'm not sure what kind I've used before. My Dad was a big deer hunter and he pretty much drilled the use of irons into me. He used scopes but he always said I shouldn't rely on them until later on and he'd teach me about those someday. Unfortunately, he died suddenly before we ever made it that far into things so I'm having to learn this stuff on my own now.
>I don't want to be in the mid-range
I meant that I do want to be in the "mid-range".
>I want options meaning I want to have range and be able to hit things up close as well.
Pretty much perfectly describes what a LPVO is for. Fixed power optics like ACOGs can be good, but I prefer the (almost) 1x of LPVOs for close range shooting. There's a very large range of options and prices for them. I wouldn't go any cheaper than something like primary arms, though.
>bolt gun scope
depends on what magnification range you like, what distances you're usually shooting at, etc. I prefer 6-24x, but the humble and prolific 3-9x may be more your speed. Preferences. If you don't know what to buy here, just pick a vortex in the magnification range and price range that you can afford. Also, most scopes come in either MOA or MILs.
RIP anon's papa
>If battle rifle needs to be able to hunt big game as well, the best option is probably AR10 in 458 socom.
Well if you want a "battle rifle," what about that new memecartridge for AR-10 actions, 8.6 Creedmoor?
>Any basic tips of those you guys could share?
A low-power variable optic would be best, I think. 1-6x and 3-9x are popular choices, you should check out what Leupold and Trijicon have to offer, or Vortex if your budget's a little tighter. ACOGs are also a good choice if you want something lightweight, indestructible, and battery-free, but fixed power means less versatile. You can mitigate that with an offset-mounted red-dot sight, but a good micro-RDS on top of what you dropped for the ACOG is getting to be expensive.
Scopes to look at/through while making a choice.
It all depends on distance and what it's doing at that distance.
1-4/1-6 power optics: 0-400 yards "tactical" or hunting fast predators.
3-9 power optics: 100-600 yards, more traditional hunting optic.
Anything above this is getting into precision shooting.
There are vast variations on scopes from magnification levels, cross hairs, objective lens (lens that gathers light, larger gets more light so its a brighter picture), tube diameter, eye relief.
Go to a big hunting store, go to the gun section and ask to look through scopes. Don't buy anything without more info, but look through a large amount of options. Price range be damned you want to see what the expensive shit is offering and what the cheap shit is failing at. Then you will get a better list of what you want to look at in more detail. Maybe even find a version of a scope you were on the fence about with a feature/form you like enough to purchase.
Also keep in mind that you can put offset irons on that AR-10 build. It may be tacticool but its not impractical.
And on our fathers, they will always unfortunately leave lessons for us to learn for ourselves. It's our duty to make them proud.
>new memecartridge for AR-10 actions, 8.6 Creedmoor
I haven't even heard of this, but it seems like a new memeround comes out every day. Who knows. .224 Valkyrie was supposed to be the new hotness for ar15 target shooting, and instead its complete ass and objectively worse than 6.5 grendel in everyway. There's nothing to say about these snowflake cartridges when they first come out, it can take years to filter out the trash. 6.5cm has been out for a decade but only really rose to prominence in the last couple of years. I wouldn't bother with the latest and greatest memeround unless its the only way to fill some very narrow niche use (like 458 socom and hunting big game with an AR).
>and instead its complete ass and objectively worse than 6.5 grendel in everyway
.224 is flatter shooting than Grendel and a good deal lighter, and while Grendel has more raw energy .224 has better energy retention. Grendel's the better all-around cartridge, sure, but Valkyrie was intended for, as you said, target shooting, and it edges out the Grendel in that, and is a straight upgrade from 5.56 in near every respect.
>it seems like a new memeround comes out every day. Who knows.
I can understand the cynicism to a certain extent, but you can't just say "who knows;" there are data out now and we're all free to reach our own conclusions from it, the only reason to wait a few years is so that experts can roll out their verdict, and you can base their opinions off of what they say. Not saying that you shouldn't listen to experts but it's more than possible to form an opinion without them. Polite sage for possible shitfest.
The original question this all stems from was asking specifically for SHTF type scenario, and the anon was concerned about ammo availability. It is for that reason that I find flavor of the month memerounds pointless to consider, as its impossible to predict what will catch on and what wont.
The events begin in one hour (3pm EST), already some nerds in the stream for preshow faggotry. Come witness autism in its purest form, as Paul Harrell struggles for victory over the so-called experts of wrestlin'.
if you're preparing for race war, then it's best to take advantage of economy of scale, meaning that you shoot the most popular calibers.
So your baseline should be .308, 5.56, and 9mm.
Same is true of your rifles, go with Remington 700, Glock 19, and an AR-15. I wouldn't bother with a battle rifle, they're complete wastes of money. I have an AR-10, it's a waste of money. The bolt-action .308 will take care of your hunting needs and the humans at long ranges, and the AR-15 will utterly massacre humans at medium to close ranges.
Also, don't bother with a single stage press, you're just wasting money. Go full Dillon 650 XL with the complete set up from the get-go.
but seriously, don't bother with battle rifles. They're wasteful money pits. Take that money and instead invest in magazines, ammo, reloading, and especially gun parts like extra springs, extractors, gas tubes, strikers, because that shit will break eventually.
is the wood piece on the rear of the type 92 a stock or a grip?
Booby trapping is basically illegal. While not explicitly defined as a crime, I doubt there's a single place in the world that could rule in your favor if you injure or kill someone by a trap. All the examples I could find rule against the defendant. Also think of property damage and the fact that once activated, the trap only serves as an indication that it's safe to proceed. Your best bet is indeed using faggy alarms, but make sure to make this fact as obvious as possible. And you could let an angry pitbull loose.
Looks like a shovel handle. I've seen one on an ak, along with the receiver. It's a bit too short to be used as a stock though.
It's an aircraft gun on a flexible mount, it's easier to swing it around if that is a second grip.
It's a grip. The Type 92 was used on aircraft and boats so having the grip on the rear helped you swivel it about.
It's also a ripoff of the Lewis gun which was used the same way.
So much of a ripoff I didn't realize that picture is also of a Type 92. Whoops.
What's the best website to buy gun shit off of? I need to buy 9mm, 7.62x39, and 10/22 magazines. I can't even buy 39 at stores, since they only sell the stupid brass shit if they even have that.
How much dedication and ammo would it take to punch through bulletproof glass with a .22LR or 9mm?
Don't even fucking bother. It will take unironically 50+ of them at the same exact spot to go through.
Roughly 15 to 20 rounds if they're just fmj. Might get different results based on glass thickness and ammo type. Overall neither 9mm or .22 are good for this. Either get yourself a shotgun loaded with slugs or a proper rifle.
All kinds of good sites. SGammo, JGSales, AIM Surplus, Centerfire Systems, CDNN sports, CTD if you have forgiven them, Keep Shooting but their selection is trending towards suck now, Wideners, UN Ammo, Ammo To Go, The Ammunition Store, et al.
ammoseek.com is another good one to check out, it includes most of the sites that this guy >>618814 listed but will automatically sort them based on price per round.
Neither .22 nor 9mm are going to be all that good for penetration. If you must use a pistol round and not rifle, you should look at bottlenecked cartridges. .357 SIG and 7.62 Tokarev are both excellent penetrators. 5.7x28 is also better than expected for its size and weight, but without the AP rounds for it (which civvies can't get) it's subpar.
Why exactly is it not okay to dfend your property while you're away? Yes, I know (((why))), I'm asking what the justifying rationale is.
Defense of property generally isn't enshrined in law. Defense of person is. If you are gone they are inherently not threatening your person therefore it is not self-defense.
Thanks for the info.
I don't need to use a pistol round, I was just curious how much would it take to go through using relatively weak rounds.
Brownells also has good prices on ammo; especially when they have coupon codes that include free shipping.
>punch through bulletproof glass with a 9mm
>with a 9mm
you'll be there around 80 years shooting the glass with that weak piece of shit.
The rationale is that it could hurt someone with a 'good' reason to be there like a cop with a valid warrant.
Here's your (you).
Is it true that the Americans are exporting the gun parts to Australia for the Strayans to build their own guns?
Elaborate you fucking nigger.
>the gun parts
ah yes, the gun parts for the gun(s)
Seconding >>618950 we have no idea what you mean.
He mentioned something interesting, americans are pursuing new research, he claims the gunparts in australia are the missing piece, a weapon to surpass australian shitposts.
I've noticed that I'm surprisingly accurate with a glock when holding it sideways. Assuming you're using the sights and are actually trying to be accurate, what are the pros and cons of holding a pistol "gangsta-style"?
>Get to cut the watermelon line
>Complimentary oversize pants and faux-gold jewelry
Cons (assuming you can actually see the sights and don't have a shitty sight picture)
<Body of pistol is obstructing more of your target
<Twisting of wrists makes grip less secure
<<Harder to control recoil
<<Harder to return to proper sight picture after recoil
<<Easier for Tyrone to grab your shit
<Hot brass flying straight up is more likely to inconvenience you
<Gravity won't drop your mag for you
<anyone melanin-deprived will bully and make fun of you
That's what I can think of, I'm sure there are others.
Use center axis relock and pretend that you are John Wick.
Is center axis memelock actually viable?
For standing in a lane and punching paper? Not really. If you're oper8ing operashionally in an enclosed space it has some utility though.
Does anybody have the webm of a bunch of Columbine-tier edgy footage with a song that goes something about "feeling bad all the time"? Just trying to find sauce for the song.
Was the state line in the middle of Kansas City ever a problem for city LE?
Is the A-10 good? Or does it suck? 1 guy I know keeps saying it sucks as its role, but its replacement the f-35 is more shit isnt it? Does the US need a ground attack fighter?
The song's Bad Vibes, by everyone's favorite korean boy
It's far and away the best we have available for CAS in the current arsenal, and while better options can be devised BRRRRT has the advantage of being dirt cheap in comparison. All that being said, A-10s are more than a little out of date and could do with an upgrade, although the F-35 isn't it.
Is it true the Navy got rid of the skyraider then vietnam happened and they didnt have a CAS when they needed one and thus the a-10 was born?
Since I'm a no-guns, I'm going to go shoot some guns soon. What does /k/ think of my to-shoot list?
Seems like a very well-rounded schedule of events to me. I'd get some time with the M1 Garand and some variety of lever action if you could as well.
I've already put the order in, as I'll be shooting at a commercial range and I purposefully left out the more common guns like the garand, thompson, m1 carbine etc. to make space for some more "exotic" guns.
Although if I get another chance I'll probably pick the garand and the M14, along with some lever action rifles.
So is this in Denmark, or are you on a VPN? If it is in Denmark I'm curious how the laws work as regards to commercial ranges like that i.e. if there are guns available to shoot at rental ranges that a person couldn't normally own.
That's it. Thanks.
Unfortunately it is not in Denmark, as Danish gun laws are quite restrictive regarding gun ownership. To my knowledge, anything you'd be able to shoot at a commercial range in Denmark would be simple common stuff and 80% pistols 20% Fudds over-under.
It should also be mentioned that all of the guns I will be shooting are semi only, although I don't mind as I've shot F/A before with other guns.
what range are you going to anyway
Trying to do it all?
>something in .357 mag
>a semi-auto shotgun
>something in 10mm
You don have some interesting picks, though.
I'd throw a makarov in. It's a nice gun and knowing it is good even in US but for EU it's almost a must.If you're going to be getting your hands on a handgun illegally, there's a high chance it'll be a makUkraine, Bulgaria or other places where Russia created a mess like Abkhazia are great places to dig, unlike Russia itself
Invidious embed. Click thumbnail to play.
Is it a good idea for weight reduction or a liability in case of electronic warfare?
>Is the A-10 good? Or does it suck? 1 guy
Along with the Su-25TM it's probably the best specialized close-support aircraft in terms of performance and firepower that ever existed.
>I know keeps saying it sucks as its role
Depends what you define "its role" as.
By the very generic "ground attack aircraft" it can have serious shortcomings in terms of range,speed, weaponload, suppression of air-defense, survivability and self defense capabilities compared to more expensive platforms like strategic bombers, interdictors, fighter-bombers and strike fighters but it can take punishment from small arms that would downright kill most other combat aircraft, can offer more tight support to ground troops, can fly slower than any non-VTOL combat jet and is much more maneuverable than interdictors and non-fighter-based bombers. If you want to go slow down and personal to ackbars the only thing that might do as a good job as the A-10 and the Su-25 is the Su-34, a 30 years younger aircraft of more than double the cost.
If you go specifically for the close support role, its main mission, then it might not be as cost effective for strafing goatfuckers and jungle-commies as prop planes and the A-37 but it offers much more firepower (due to its concept design as a mass tank-murderer) and much greater survivability.
At the moment the A-10 occupies a niche in western inventory that cannot be easily replaced, especially in terms of moral manipulation.
I'll probably post about it when I've been there, I have yet to know whether or not it is a decent place. It is also not entirely cheap to go and shoot 35 guns in europe. I won't be given a full mag for each, rather from 3-12 rounds of ammo per gun.
Those were all options that I could've chosen, but I didn't since those are common enough to be available in Denmark.
I just realized that the list is incomplete, as I'll also be shooting a makarov, stechkin, saiga 12k, vityaz, regular ak and an ak-74. I'll keep your advice in mind, Russia
Purely patrician tastes.
How small can one get an ar-15?
"Can" or "should?" Assuming we're talking about 5.56, 7.5" is the shortest barrel I've seen, and PDW stocks with short buffer tubes can get as short as 3.5" fully collapsed. That's pretty compact all things considered, with an OAL of 18.5" for your rifle, but at that point one has to ask why you're bothering with the AR platform or indeed 5.56 at all, instead of going for something specialized to that role.
Well, 300 blackout exists. I was just wondering if you could get a ar to backpack size. Because then you could potentially carry the thing in a duffle bag.
Go search for "9mm ar" or "pistol ar" and repurpose the info for your needs.
If backpack carry specifically is what you're looking for, there's also this custom folding AR. Real fucking expensive though.
How do short vs long stroke gas systems compare to each other from engineering standpoint, what are their pros and cons? Which system is better/more efficient overall?
That's like asking what's more efficient, ducted fan or propeller: that entirely depends on your application.
Burges folding shotgun when?
I'm going to a CMP match on Saturday; should I use my AK, PTR91, or M24/47?
How do I sell a gun in IL to some one?
I'm in MO, what are you selling?
yugo sks and yugo 8mm mauser
Can you place an ar-15 pistol brace on a 32P PDWR PTR 203?
Those are nice guns, but I don't need more of them. Looks like you need to make sure the buyer has a valid FOID card before you sell to them if they're not an FFL.
Bolt guns are sexy
Could I use a pair of binoculars to check for hits are a target 150, 200 yard away for under 100 dollars?
Fightlite Raider handgun is 20.25" with a 7.25" barrel.
Hot damn only way to top that is with one of the bufferless uppers on offer now.
Do you think worship of the /k/ube is a form of death cultism, and how devout are you in your worship (on a scale of ironic shitposting to sincere zealotry)?
Ok, the application is fully-automatic handheld firearm. What system would have what advantages, will all other things being equal? I'm interested which system offers more advantages that are important for a firearm, i'm going a bit autistic about "the ultimate gas operated rifle" and thinking of the features of it.
So you want a gas operated rifle? In what caliber? Do you have a particular rate of fire in mind? What is the intended application?
Are control feed semi-autos possible?
I want to know at what things gas operated rifles excel, just like roller-delayed blowback excels at durability and durability, recoil and gas delaying operation at managing recoil and lever and direct blowback at simplicity. What makes the gas operation so special that it's used in most modern small arms? Ease of engineering and design, mechanism reusability or any technical advantages?
What does short stroke operation do better than long stroke aside from obviously being lighter? Does it last as long? Is it more prone to failure? Does it recoil harder? Does it limit rate of fire more? Can it interfere with accuracy without taking machining quality into consideration? Which one is more costly? Does it limit ammo choice?
All of that, not a particular design. I'm learning firearm operation principles among other things and while they were not that hard to understand gas operation is the most difficult to evaluate advantages and pros of, especially since there's 2 of them3 but DI is out of my interest.
Invidious embed. Click thumbnail to play.
They are reliable, that's their trick. After all they really are like a straight-pull bolt action rifle with a gas piston, and I guess I don't need to explain to you how making a straight-pull bolt action rifle isn't that complicated. As for the collection of questions, if you don't fuck up the engineering then the main difference is that long stroke is heavier but it's also less "violent", and that decreases felt recoil. Or at least that's the theory. I'd also add that long recoil is a bit simpler, because you just have to directly attach a very simple gas piston to the bolt carrier, and you don't need a dedicated spring (and something that holds it) for the piston. Moreover, it's easier to disassemble the weapon, because the piston and bolt carrier come out as one unit. I hope you have seen an AK close and personal. Just imagine how you'd have to add a few bits to make it a short stroke system.
>I want to know at what things gas operated rifles excel, just like roller-delayed blowback excels at durability and durability, recoil and gas delaying operation at managing recoil and lever and direct blowback at simplicity. What makes the gas operation so special that it's used in most modern small arms? Ease of engineering and design, mechanism reusability or any technical advantages?
I'd say one of the advantages is weight (compared to delayed blowback), and to some extent accuracy. The multi-lug rotating bolt offers a highly consistent lockup in the gun, and that consistency lends itself to accuracy.
Long-stroke, as in the kind of piston the AK uses, has the advantage of durability. The bolt and gas piston are all one part and less likely to break. I would guess that long-stroke is cheaper to manufacture as well. Theoretically, that all-one-part characteristic means a long-stroke has the potential to deliver more power to the action than a short-stroke. Practically speaking though all piston systems would be severely overgassed if the excess weren't vented anyways, so all gas systems are operating far below their maximum.
Short-stroke pistons have more small parts and thus a bit less durable in the long run. However, unlike long-stroke systems they have parts replacement viability: if a part of the long-stroke piston system breaks, you may as well just scrap the gun and get a new one, as the cost and time associated with getting a new piston-bolt system into the gun isn't worth it. The parts in a short-stroke piston might not last as long individually as the long-stroke, but it's comparatively easy to replace each individual one as they fail instead of having to replace the whole rifle. And as you said, short-stroke is lighter. The fact that short-stroke is lighter means that it is more accurate, as there's less mass hanging off the barrel interfering with barrel harmonics. Neither long nor short-stroke are going to limit ammo choice all that much, provided the system is gassed properly.
I know you said you're not interested in DI which if we're talking about the AR-15 operation system isn't really DI but an internal short-stroke piston, but mechanically at least it has benefits to consider. It's got all the advantages of short-stroke operation, but it's even lighter (and thus more accurate), and has fewer moving parts. Only disadvantage is >rifle shits in its mouth, but the practical implications of that on reliability are exaggerated by fudds.
In general, using gas to cycle an action is less violent to the shooter and the gun. The G3 uses rollers and a heavy bolt to delay blowback. IE its only holding the chamber shut until a certain pressure is hit in the chamber and the rollers move then. In comparison to an AK with a long stroke, you are waiting for pressure to build in a gastube. Its much less force to move the bolt carrier back and twist the bolt head out of the locking lugs because the bolt carrier moving backwards turns the bolt. It is also only using a portion of the gases available to force the piston back. Not requiring all of the recoil to push the bolt and rollers.
Blow back is like kicking in a door and the lock moves out of place just enough to open. Pistons and DI are like turning the knob while pushing on the door.
As for advantages, there is a reason you don't see a whole lot of delayed blowback rifles from anyone but H&K. Delayed blowback may be cheaper to make but it requires much more knowledge and experience to repair. You have to have the right rollers/toggle to ensure you don't move the bolt back while the chamber pressure is still way to high, while also allowing for enough give to cycle properly. While with a piston or DI gun, you can tune it much easier with much less risk. This means changing bullets in a G3 is a very intensive process while on an AK it's operation range is much larger so it may not need anything other than a slightly heavier/weaker return spring.
Blowback guns also get dirty quick. Unburnt powder can very easily get into the inner workings. To get over this, G3 rifles and the like, capitalize on the violent action to make sure it will break any carbon build up or gunk.
So really, its a combination of logistics and ease of use. Accuracy is more dependent on the overall design than the action. You can have an amazingly light gas system that doesn't interfere with the barrel at all, but if the barrel isn't mounted optimally, the trigger is gritty, the barrel is cheap shit steel, or the sights float; it will be a shit gun regardless of the gas system. You can also have a heavy as fuck gas system that puts a lot of weight on the barrel, but your barrel is stiff and good quality, your sights are on point and your trigger breaks like glass, it will be accurate.
What happened to the FÉLIN camouflage? How good is CE as a camouflage?
>Short-stroke pistons have more small parts and thus a bit less durable in the long run. However, unlike long-stroke systems they have parts replacement viability: if a part of the long-stroke piston system breaks, you may as well just scrap the gun and get a new one, as the cost and time associated with getting a new piston-bolt system into the gun isn't worth it. The parts in a short-stroke piston might not last as long individually as the long-stroke, but it's comparatively easy to replace each individual one as they fail instead of having to replace the whole rifle.
Wtf are you talking about, half of what you said here is false.
In long stroke guns the bolt carrier and piston are not machined as a whole from a single block, they're typically separate pieces held together with a rivet or two.
If the piston on an AK or similar design snaps you can just pop the rivet (s) out, install a new piston and reassemble the gun.
>In long stroke guns the bolt carrier and piston are not machined as a whole from a single block, they're typically separate pieces held together with a rivet or two.
I didn't mean cut from a single piece of steel, but like you said the piston and bolt carrier are connected and act as one part, which is what I meant.
>If the piston on an AK or similar design snaps you can just pop the rivet (s) out, install a new piston and reassemble the gun.
If that's the case then I stand corrected. Although I've always heard the AK described as the epitome of unit replacement while the AR exemplifies part replacement–if an AK has a major failure within its operating system you're better off just quickly stamping out a new rifle.
Ok, thanks for your insight.
>the practical implications of that on reliability
It's not only the fouling that goes into the receiver but also heat that would limit sustainability of automatic fire. I don't like the system because it really feels like a dirty hack but that's just me.
>it requires much more knowledge and experience to repair
Did you want to say "design"? Repairing is often not more difficult that just swapping broken parts, while delayed blowback and roller delayed in particular requires very precise fitting of parts. I also think there's an issue with current gun manufacturers, as they cannot copy the design due to copyright and it's too cumbersome to design a new action in a world where your main customers are governments concerned more with your country of origin than the actual design.
>While with a piston or DI gun, you can tune it much easier with much less risk
I could imagine some know that will slightly compress/relieve the recoil spring in such a system. Too bad H&K are only good at dumping their past achievements to sell same memeshit as anyone else. Though most gun designs do not have adjustable gas blocks as well so there's that. What a shame.
>Unburnt powder can very easily get into the inner workings
There's less of these workings then in DI though.
>To get over this, G3 rifles and the like, capitalize on the violent action to make sure it will break any carbon build up or gunk.
They do offer great durability even with such action though. I really think that such strong and massive action is the way to go for a rifle that is going to be relied on and used extensively, that it's what makes a rifle great for military usage, in the actual sense of the word.
I see that gas systems do help in making firearms light and operate softly and mildly, but i feel like these things might have better use in a different place than a service rifle, like target or sporting shooting, for example. I see a robust, simple, reliable, undemanding and durable design on one side and a smooth, soft shooting, clean, light and nimble art of a weapon on another, all if we're talking about the ultimate point the rifle design can reach, with all the things being properly designed. If we choose another route then it just feels like wasted potential. That's kind of my way of thinking.
Does short stroke piston system vent the gasses into the receiver when the bolt comes backwards, i.e. does it run cleaner than a long stroke one?
>Does long* stroke piston system vent the gasses into the receiver when the bolt comes backwards, i.e. does it run cleaner than a short* stroke one?
What is the best carry method for a taxi driver? I was thinking shoulder holster. Open and concealed is legal, but it needs to be concealed from the customers.
How are the gun laws in your state.
>t's not only the fouling that goes into the receiver but also heat that would limit sustainability of automatic fire.
The receiver and chamber are already the hottest points on ther rifle, they're designed to handle that kind of stress and should be fine. Most short-stroke systems just move the hotspot to just under the handguard, and your handhold getting hot is going to impede functionality more than the already-hot action getting a little hotter.
AKMs vent gas through the gas block, I believe earlier models had vent holes along the gas tube. Gas block venting is probably the best overall given the choice, it's far out on the front end and far away from both the handguard and action. Actually, thinking on it, you could probably redesign the AR so that it uses a gas block bleed-off instead of dumping all of the gas into the action. Use a bleed-off gas block like the Superlative Arms design, maybe make the vent holes in the carrier a little smaller, and you've got the advantages of DI while also minimizing the amount of fouling in the action.
constitutional carry for both concealed and open.
Yeah a few companies make adjustable gas blocks like that. They're cool, and would perhaps increase the longevity of the rifle, but I see little utility unless you fire custom loads through a suppressor.
I have an AK and two AR's, the AK gets just as filthy as the AR's and runs just as well.
Well, magpul moved their offices here, so it can't be that bad
I'd keep one in a shoulder holster and an ankle holster, maybe a subcompact pistol and a featherweight revolver. but the fact that any potential attacker/thief can just sit behind you make it a vulnerable position whether you have a gun or not.
>you may as well just scrap the gun and get a new one
lmao, you do know that the piston on an AK bolt carrier can be replaced right? It's just pinned in there. Take it to any reputable gunsmith and they'll fix it for a reasonable price if you don't have the proper tools.
No stand your ground law, no constitutional concealed carry (though it's easy as fuck to get a permit), most stuff that's not banned on a federal level is legal iirc.
Not for long though, jew porkers and other assorted NE trash have drifted in and absolutely ruined the state over the past 20 years.
I didn't mean to imply the lack of stand your ground as a positive.
Really only the last one is a positive
>The receiver and chamber are already the hottest points on ther rifle
That's why you don't want to bring more heat in there - because there are problems with heat that appear in any rifle and deliberately making them worse is not a good thing.
>they're designed to handle that kind of stress and should be fine
AR does increase its rate of fire with heat, up to 900rpm iirc, and that's bad. It might be able to handle the additional wear and stress at normal conditions, especially if you use it only in semi auto so you only get more cleaning, but once you try to push its limits by firing a lot in a hot environment you start having a lot more problems than you expected.
>Most short-stroke systems just move the hotspot to just under the handguard
Get a better handguard instead of fully enclosing your barrel like a retard. Not only the air cycles through the handguard naturally, hot gasses are free to flow out easily, as well as short stroke system that cuts off the flow of the gasses after initial discharge. To further fix the issue there're designs like FNC that have heatshields between plastic handguard and metal barrel shroud. You seem a bit biased towards DI.
>a gas block bleed-off
Pretty interesting, though you still have unsealed tube going into the receiver so gasses will freely flow in there until the bolt is forward again, unlike short stroke that goes back almost immediately and provides additional resistance so the gasses go in the hole or stay in the barrel.
>I see little utility
Most AR barrels have large holes drilled in them to offer cycling all possible ammo but it comes with all these ARs being overgassed when shooting anything but the softest and mildest loads. This leads to increased recoil, more sharp and violent action, decrease in reliability, possible failure to feed, additional wear and heat in the rifle and just worse overall shooting experience. If you own an AR, try out this thing yourself. I've got the info from here, feel free to check out http://abesguncave.com/the-best-adjustable-ar-15-gas-blocks/ . IMHO, it's not just about fixing a minor disadvantage of your rifle but also about giving it some love and attention. You don't want to damage her more then necessary, do you?
You're lucky you discuss gun laws, in most other places the key issue will not be having a gun but getting v& if you are using anything to defend yourself, even if you are allowed to have a gun.
>eotech mounted 2 foot high off the gun
what is that autistic piece of green shit on the rifle?
If 1639 passes, everything I own or would ever buy/build is legally defined as an assault rifle, with yearly checkups to prove they're still 'salt rifus, and fees tied to inflation. That's pretty bad.
Right now the worst is universal background checks and a mental health contingent added to that, to buy a handgun. I have no idea about CCW I figure I'm on enough lists as it is.
Is there a handy /k/ infographic for gun laws by state or do I need to Google each one individually?
With how much they change it would be more out of date than the poorfag guides, so no.
The NRA has compiled them already even if they're a bunch of faggots who won't push to repeal the unconstitutional gun laws
I'm doing my part, I hope other anons are too. I don't really see it passing tbh, too much excessive shit. Lots of pro gun people and people who know the law wouldn't do shit. Haven't talked to anyone who is for it. It would be kinda funny if they waste tax money doing yearly checkups on the 10/22s.
What's the joke? How is this anti-tank rifle like quake?
Modern /k/ so stupid it can't even google.
It is a camera scope that lets you shoot around corners like a l337 oper8tor.
That gun and why is it classified as an "anti-tank rifle"?
>why is it classified as an "anti-tank rifle"?
Because it was made to be one? Are you referring to the cartridge, or its armor-penetrating capabilities?
Anyone able to ID the scope in this picture. All I know is that it's 2.75mm and the pic was taken in 1971.
>why is it classified as an "anti-tank rifle"?
Because it was designed for that purpose and was chambered in an anti-tank cartridge? Still don't get why it's quake-like.
I bought a Type 99 Arisaka that had been sporterized (new stock) and rechambered for .300 Savage. Functionally I love it, save for the magazine being too long for the .300 Sav cartridges, causing feeding issues. Would it be a crime against the /k/ube to fabricate a new magazine follower to complete the sporterization, or should I keep it as it? I won't ever rechamber it back to 7.7 Jap, so there would be little reason not to complete the modification.
I'm telling him>>620368 to google that shit and find out by himself.
It's not exactly a crime if you can easily put the old follower back in if needed.
With a fucked stock and barrel it's never going to be resurrected. Might as well make a new follower. The old one might be useful to bring a slightly less fucked gun back to proper trim.
Thanks, komrades. The barrel is fine, it wasn't defilled nor was it drilled for a scope. The only true defacing (other than the emperor's mark) is the stock, which seems to have been custom made for the most part, and the caliber conversion. I'll keep the old follower around and fabricate a new one tomorrow.
>Carry laws are generally a county-by-county basis, effectively a scheme where if you ain't connected or rich in certain counties, you're fucked.
>"Assault" weapons ban, no "hi-cap" mags, 10-day wait periods, 1 handgun purchase per month, handgun roster of (((safety))) that is constantly shrinking every year with its bullshit mechanics of impossible standards and the real fucking kicker is that if you're a politician or retired cop, you essentially are excused from the bullshit laws, meaning you can get off-roster handguns, no waiting periods, no dealing with local sheriff having you need a "good" reason to carry
>Ammo will soon require background checks and no longer can anyone in this state have mail-order ammo delivered for sake of saving money or stockpiling
This state is just begging for someone to pull it off life-support at this point, and I can only hope that with mid-elections around, Newsom doesn't win the fucking Governor's seat
A couple of years back Mike Vanderboegh's boys were running hi-caps into Massachusetts and New York. A shame a Nevada strelok and a California strelok can't come to an amicable agreement. Pretty hard to tell a pre-ban mag from a post-ban mag at times.
What are the requirements for the Department of Energy's special forces teams?
Do you mean the Federal Protective Forces? They're fucking legitimate. Basically carte blanche on civilian casualties if it means securing stolen assets. Full go ahead to use Mk19 and M134 in densely populated area of the US if deemed mission critical.
Anyways, from what I read they aren't really Fed employees but private security trained by the Feds. Find the location you want to work at and figure out what company runs it. Contact them. Since it's private security we're probably running on PMC rules so I'd say former law enforcement or military experience likely a must. Consolidated Nuclear Security LLC operates two government sites. You could give them a call and ask for specifics.
How do I make myself dangerous? I'm a total normie when it comes to weapons, training and tactics. I didn't realize how bad things really are. As it stands the best I could do is shoot straight.
Where do I go to learn about tactics and military thought in general? What else can I do to make myself more deadly than some random nigger with a firearm?
I know it was unofficial, I just want to know what model of scope it is, what magnification and stuff.
I had no interest in joining, just wondering things like if they're all veterans.
>Most AR barrels have large holes drilled in them to offer cycling all possible ammo
True, imo this is an asset to most people, especially if you practice with steel case Tula or Wolf, and the rest of the time keep your magazines loaded with a defense caliber, I use XM193 in all my 5.56 AR's.
>his leads to increased recoil, more sharp and violent action
Not enough to justify the added complexity and possible drawbacks of an adjustable gas block. And if the increased recoil really is a problem, just grab a heavier buffer spring/ buffer, it probably takes less time to switch the buffer/spring than it does to adjust the gas block, and costs a lot less too, especially if you need to remove the handguard, or us a long allen key/screwdriver.
As for possible drawbacks, unreliability with certain ammo would be one, if your gun is tuned to one round and you need to fire a higher/lower pressure round you won't have time to adjust it in a dire situation. Granted, this isn't likely to happen, but it is something to think about.
> possible failure to feed
IF this is an issue, a simple fix would be a spring or buffer change, something which is much cheaper, and the money from a $100 adjustable gas block could be put towards a trigger, BCG, barrel, or optics.
>additional wear and heat in the rifle
Not enough to justify it to me, but then I'm a weirdo who loves it when my guns break and I need to fix them.
I'm not saying that and adjustable gas block is necessarily bad in an AR-15 build, but the added complexity, controls, and cost vs any benefit it may have (I have a 16 inch middy carbine and a 20 inch rifle) just doesn't make it worth it in my eyes for the normal civilian shooter.
But everything you said is more valid in the case of 14.5 inch (And below) bbl's with carbine or pistol gas systems, in which the timing/pressure/gassing would be FAR from ideal, and would require much more fine tuning. But if you're using a shorty AR, .300 nigout, 7.63x39 .458 socom, or any other much more suitable round should be used imo, and to be honest I'm not sure how big a problem timing, overgassing and premature parts wear is on these lower pressure rounds.
Fuck the camo, look at that abomination on their rifles. Who are the retards that keep thinking they found some revolutionary way to shoot around corners? I mean, they all suck, look at that scope, it must weight 2 or 3 pounds for christs sake, i can tell it's a bad idea on every level and I'm completely ignorant of it save for these images.
>Where do I go to learn about tactics and military thought in general?
Slow down there cowboy, do you even have a gun?
I meant defense load, forgive me
>this is an asset to most people
>unreliability with certain ammo would be one
Come on, are you sure about that? Do you really think that making the point of optimal performance from weakest loads to where you need it is bad? Your situation has one major disadvantage - your rifle is optimized for soft training loads(i.e. same gas block but on max setting when it could be set on either your training, which is already better or your custom loads/special ammo and still be better with training ammo). You do not want to improve reliability of your rifle when using your hot self defense ammo, exactly the ammo you'll be using in the situation that it matters most? Remember, there can be too much gas, not only "not enough".
>Not enough to justify the added complexity and possible drawbacks of an adjustable gas block.
There's not really much complexity in a properly designed gas block, as well as drawbacks are basically nonexistent.
>it probably takes less time to switch the buffer/spring than it does to adjust the gas block
A good gas block does not require taking off the handguard. A perfect gas block doesn't need a tool but only FN seem to get that, unfortunately.
>the money from a $100 adjustable gas block could be put towards a trigger, BCG, barrel, or optics.
I'll have to agree here, for the market of today there are a lot better options to spend that much money. Still, this is an AR problem, not gas block one. If the rifles had an adjustable gas block by default and it was not a shitty abomination of a drunken engineer like it usually happens it'd have been a better world.
>Not enough to justify it to me, but then I'm a weirdo who loves it when my guns break and I need to fix them.
yeah, subjective value varies from person to person but even if i'm fine with people being sadistic towards other people actively harming your favorite rifle is not something i'd ever approve, unless the gun actually was going to be blown up.
I wasn't necessarily talking about self defense ammo/practice ammo. There could be a situation in which you don't have you're preferred ammunition isn't available, say your buddy dropped dead and you're dry, you need to use his magazines, but they are loaded rounds that may be unreliable in your rifle due to how the gas block is tuned. But situations like this, while plausible, aren't really worth talking about.
Most AR's are perfectly (100%) reliable with all ammo on the market, over gassing isn't that large of an issue when present(most of the time), and if your rifle is over gassed, there are many cheaper (And better) solutions than buying an adjustable gas block. Unless you're running an SBR, suppressed rifle, or like screwing around with handloads/subsonic ammo, an adjustable gas block doesn't provide much more utility than another little gimmick to screw around with.
>There's not really much complexity in a properly designed gas block
There is more complexity than a normal gas block, it's another possible point of failure, another moving part that can fuck up. Not that there aren't extremely well crafted adjustable gas blocks on the market, but why introduce another weak point unless you really need it?
>as well as drawbacks are basically nonexistent.
I could say the same for normal gas blocks (of good quality). Slightly more parts wear and a minuscule increase in recoil (For the average AR, not an SBR/Pistol/whatever) aren't really issues imo.
>A good gas block does not require taking off the handguard. A perfect gas block doesn't need a tool but only FN seem to get that, unfortunately.
Point taken, but there are people out there who will hear of these issues of parts wear and "violent" recoil, and proceed to buy the cheapest adjustable they can, the ones with two set screws that will probably walk without some sort of thread locker. Not that this matters anyways.
>actively harming your favorite rifle is not something i'd ever approve
>slight parts wear from overgassing
>actively harming your rifle
Personally I just like parts breakage and wear because it feels like the gun is being used, I don't like to just have a gun laying around (even though I have quite i few I don't shoot). Granted, I only shoot guns I can get parts for, parts breakage on an antique is a tragedy.
>which you don't have you're preferred ammunition isn't available
Added the isn't whole proofreading, ignore it
what are Wisconsin gun laws like and are they better than Illinois?
>That's why you don't want to bring more heat in there - because there are problems with heat that appear in any rifle and deliberately making them worse is not a good thing.
I'm not saying it's a "good thing," I'm saying that those areas have already been designed to deal with heat. Obviously heat in excess of tolerances is bad but the question is whether or not you're in excess of those tolerances.
>AR does increase its rate of fire with heat, up to 900rpm iirc, and that's bad.
Are you sure you mean high heat and not high pressure? Obviously the two tend to go hand with gasses, but the chamber being hot already isn't going to affect the pressure of incoming gas.
>It might be able to handle the additional wear and stress at normal conditions, especially if you use it only in semi auto so you only get more cleaning, but once you try to push its limits by firing a lot in a hot environment you start having a lot more problems than you expected.
It might not be "field conditions" but the results from the Battle LV range suggest otherwise, with even M4s fired exclusively on full-auto lasting tens of thousands of rounds. And when uppers do break from heat, it's usually because of constant heating up and cooling down, not because of the peak temperature. And those are on 14.5" M4s, which wear rather hard. With the 20" M16s they've had no problems at all so far, although admittedly the range says those get less volume of fire.
>regarding gas blocks
The thing about gas systems is that the military's trials demand that the gun be completely functional at a wide range of temperatures and pressures, which means military small arms are overgassed by design. I've got an adjustable GB on my AR and I like it, but I'm not sure it's the best idea for your average grunt's rifle; you don't want to give them something they might fiddle with and screw up, better to just overgas the gun so it works.
I'm getting a CCW soon. I'm going back and forth between a Glock 19 and a Glock 34. On one hand the 19 has more ammo in a magazine. On the other hand the 34 is easier to conceal and from what I've been told I'm less likely to skip days carrying a smaller gun. I've shot both of them and I like both of them. What else do I need to consider?
Related to this, I'll soon be in the market for an Inside the Waistband holster. Any sellers to look into and advice for choosing a holster? I know about T-Rex arms and Galco, and I'm leaning toward appendix carry.
>they are loaded rounds that may be unreliable in your rifle due to how the gas block is tune
I doubt this is ever the case aside from some few extreme examples that are even more severe in a situation like this. Unless you intentionally screw your gas settings more than barrel manufacturers managed to you'll be at an advantage.
>Most AR's are perfectly (100%) reliable with all ammo on the market
After break in period or brand new? For how long does this last? is it only under perfect conditions?
>there are many cheaper (And better) solutions
No questions here, i agreed with that. I just find it a sad issue with AR market, not with gas blocks.
>There is more complexity than a normal gas block
This can be said about many things. Do you want your bolt hold open mechanism or is it "unnecessary complexity"?
>it's another possible point of failure
Not more than just a basic gas block. They are of similar size, similarly built and similarly likely to explode.
>another moving part that can fuck up
You know that no parts are moving during action, right? This way an upper receiver is a moving part and needs to be welded in place.
>aren't really issues imo
Listen, you are free to do whatever you want with your rifle but it's a fact that an adjustable gas block can help reduce parts wear and recoil with disadvantages that are not tied to the rifle, like the price, mostly.
>Are you sure you mean high heat and not high pressure?
I remember reading about high fire rate, i think. The gasses probably expand more rapidly in a hot barrel, it might have been something with the gas tube or the action itself, i don't remember but aside from the fact that cold temperatures can prevent action from cycling reliably, might do something with thermodynamics that i know little of, aside from obvious thing that processes happen faster in hotter conditions. There also are cookoffs.
>you don't want to give them something they might fiddle with and screw up
A good point, though FN seem to have already fixed that. FAL had a round turning knob that had multiple positions, while FNC has only 2 positions - overgassed and with the small gas vent opened. Perfect for both brainlets, different shooting environments and situations(rounds, suppressors, wear and dirt).
Bumping this, bought a reference book on the topic of Australian snipers and couldn't even find anything in there.
>After break in period or brand new? For how long does this last? is it only under perfect conditions?
Most are good out of the box, and you'll get parts breakage/wear to the point replacement is needed at about 20000+ rounds, maybe less if you shoot a lot of ammo really fast.
How much will an adjustable gas block prevent this breakage? Not enough to matter in my opinion, if you shoot a lot, parts will wear no matter what, if you don't shoot a lot you could go you're entire life without replacing anything. a little bit more gas isn't going to reduce your rifles lifespan(before it needs a new bolt or something) by more than 1000 rounds, maybe less. And if you have serious over gassing and reliability issue, perhaps an adjustable gas block isn't the best choice.
>No questions here, i agreed with that. I just find it a sad issue with AR market, not with gas blocks.
I forgot to add, by buying these adjustable gas blocks, you are just further supporting the AR-15 gimmick industry.
>This can be said about many things. Do you want your bolt hold open mechanism or is it "unnecessary complexity"?
It was designed with a bolt hold open mechanism in mind.
>Not more than just a basic gas block. They are of similar size, similarly built and similarly likely to explode.
An adjustable gas block literally introduces a weakness by creating a non homogeneous surface under high pressure, it is literally more likely to explode than a normal gas block. Not saying that these things explode all the time, but it is a factor to consider, what can malfunction does, and can do so at the worst times.
>You know that no parts are moving during action, right? This way an upper receiver is a moving part and needs to be welded in place.
Not my point, perhaps I wasn't clear. The fact that it (the lever or screw that is) moves at all makes it worse than a normal gas block.
>adjustable gas block can help reduce parts wear and recoil
I'm not denying this, but the results a negligible for the majority of AR-15's.
>are not tied to the rifle, like the price, mostly.
Despite the possible failure point and added complexity.
Also that spacing makes your post a pain to read.
>the results a negligible
>by buying these adjustable gas blocks, you are just further supporting the AR-15 gimmick industry.
I don't disagree in principle, but as far as gimmicks go adjustable gas blocks are pretty tame. And if you plan to use a suppressor or a low-mass BCG which I guess you could argue is a gimmick they are necessary.
>How much will an adjustable gas block prevent this breakage?
The benefits of the gas block are directly proportionate to the power of the ammo you use.
>parts will wear no matter what
Then why clean your rifle? Why oil it or prevent rust from spreading? What's the point if it's expendable, if you can just go and buy a new one?
>a little bit more gas isn't going to reduce your rifles lifespan(before it needs a new bolt or something) by more than 1000 rounds
It would need a new bolt sooner if it slams rapidly against the back of the buffer tube. If you're going to argue how does this "not matter" you'll have to give some actual proofs.
<Well, if you want it to last more just buy a new one, duh!
>And if you have serious over gassing and reliability issue, perhaps an adjustable gas block isn't the best choice.
Why the fuck not? What possibly can you fix or change in a functional rifle beyond putting a new spring that'd do everything the same way except that it would be more violent, wear parts more, use more gas to operate and vent more gasses into the receiver.
>by buying these adjustable gas blocks, you are just further supporting the AR-15 gimmick industry.
>by improving your rifle you are further supporting people who make theirs less functional.
>It was designed with a bolt hold open mechanism in mind.
And an adjustable gas block was designed with an AR in mind. Don't start the "judge intentions instead of practice" game.
>An adjustable gas block literally introduces a weakness by creating a non homogeneous surface under high pressure
You know how thick they are compared to your gas tube? It's solid steel in there, a thick layer of it. Again, do you want to remove bolt hold open mechanism because it "introduces more moving parts and non homogenous surface in the lower"?
>Not saying that these things explode all the time, but it is a factor to consider, what can malfunction does, and can do so at the worst times.
It literally prevents malfunctions and parts breakage, directly by its function and exactly in the parts that wear most often, and you throw a baseless claim about how it's prone to failure because it's not a solid block? Why don't you use a blunderbuss if that's the case? It has no moving parts at all.
>The fact that it (the lever or screw that is) moves at all makes it worse than a normal gas block.
<The fact that it(the upper receiver) moves at all makes it worse than a monolithic construction of these 2 welded together.
>I'm not denying this, but the results a negligible for the majority of AR-15's.
Probably the improvements are not worth the price on the current market and common applications but it doesn't mean an adjustable gas block isn't an improvement, which is exactly my point, just like it's an improvement to get a better then standard charging handle, even if it might not be a good financial(or whatever) decision in a specific case.
>possible failure point
As i said, if a(presumably) possible failure point prevents a real one from emerging and helps in mitigating the ones that are most common it's a good tradeoff.
Well, i agree that nobody likes to have to manage more parts but the robust and self contained nature of the gas block mostly mitigates that. It's not like you have to manage the adjustable gas block more than a basic one, aside from actually tuning it once and forgetting about it until the moment you drastically change the used ammo.
I find it easier to read that way but here you go.
>Then why clean your rifle? Why oil it or prevent rust from spreading? What's the point if it's expendable, if you can just go and buy a new one?
I think his point is the lifespan of your parts is already ~20,000 rounds even with "destructive" overgassed fixed gas blocks. And the thing that breaks at that point is usually the bolt, the wear on which comes mostly from the initial pressure spike of firing. The action's cyclic rate might will have an effect on that as well, but not nearly as much as the initial pressure, so I have to wonder if you'll see any real increase in lifespan from the adjustable gas block. Don't get me wrong, I'm a fan of adjustable blocks and think they make the shooting experience more pleasant, but I'm not sure the argument from a durability perspective is all that compelling.
Well, if you are not going to use the whole supply of durability of your rifle then it's generally pointless to try to improve it since you won't be using it that much, aside from trying to make it "perfect" or something for the sake of it but the same argument can be said about almost any parts of the rifle(aside from those that do improve shooting experience but then it's almost entirely your preference and budget): do you need that quality steel BCG or upper? Is that barrel really necessary? Why go with something other than the stock your gun came with? See where this is going if we look at it from this perspective - you wouldn't gain much from improving your rifle if you're not shooting it but can you find anyone here who wouldn't want to?
It's a matter of cost/benefit analysis. A $100 upgrade would have to make the rifle more durable by at least 500 rounds of 5.56 (assuming the expected present value of boolits in the future is the same as it is for boolits now) to be considered worthwhile. And even then, like I said before, the military's reliability requirements mean that adjustable blocks would probably be wide open most of the time anyways.
Gas block should cost less tbh, there's not much to it, unlike the barrel, receiver or trigger that would raise the price that much. It's like muzzle breaks - useful but you can do it for 10% of the price if you have a mill or a lathe or even a drill press.
>the military's reliability requirements mean that adjustable blocks would probably be wide open most of the time anyways.
yes, i'd not put any of the current AR gas blocks on service rifle myself. For these applications it's better to have something similar to 2 positions of FNC that can be easily toggled with one hand. Offering things for military to fuck up is a bad idea, just like it would be to let soldier build their rifles.
>Gas block should cost less tbh
Fair enough, but you get my point–if your claim to fame is maintenance cycle increase then you need to show that it has a demonstrable effect on the maintenance cycle. And I'm just not convinced that the adjustable block has that, especially when the bolt and barrel, the two major wear points on the gun, will be replaced too often for you to notice the effect of an adjustable block on durability.
>yes, i'd not put any of the current AR gas blocks on service rifle myself. For these applications it's better to have something similar to 2 positions of FNC that can be easily toggled with one hand.
Those are on the market right now, the Noveske Switchblock.
Actually, hang on a moment–if the only reason you want an adjustable block is for a two-position system, you're not actually gaining anything in day-to-day reliability, because the "regular" position will be just as opened up as a non-adjustable block, nad the only time you'd start seeing improvements in reliability and handling would be when you're firing suppressed.
>you need to show that it has a demonstrable effect on the maintenance cycle
That's fair but unfortunately i don't have data or statistics to prove my point. Do you know any military testing on the topic. i doubt anyone else has managed to have enough data or resources to check that out.
>the bolt and barrel
These two are not affected by the gas block that much, true, but wear on the gas spring, buffer tube(it won't break alone but if you drop the rifle it may be more likely), bolt carrier, especially in most severe cases, probably even the gas tube due to lower pressure.
That's really interesting, thanks. It's suppressor-focued, though. It does have complete cutoff switch that has many uses nevertheless.
>if the only reason you want an adjustable block is for a two-position system, you're not actually gaining anything in day-to-day reliability
If we continue using FNC as an example the rifle does have gas vent open as the default position.
I think the best all-purpose gas block would be 2 position one with gas vent open as the main one and fully-gassed as a secondary, as well as an option to cut the gasses off completely(FNC does it with grenade sights flip). Other than that, you could further optimize the rifle for different tasks like suppressed fire, target or competition shooting but these are the bare minimum. It should, of course have an easily accessible rotating knob(no screws), preferably with either just positions on each side(like FNC) or separated with ball detents that click and lock in place(like FAL).
the whole point of DI in the AR platform was weight reduction. It does have chambering problems once enough gunk gets fouled up inside the receiver, and it doesn't take long even with good ammo. At about 100 rounds I've had to use the forward assist, and that's with nickel boron bcg.
>short stoke cleaner?
about the same, AR pistons are definitely much cleaner than DI, obviously. The AK-47 uses a long stroke piston because the idea is that this heavier piston system builds more momentum to plow through fouling similar to the G3's violent action.
I'm pretty sad that we don't have more delayed blow-back guns like the G3.
Galco. Galco makes the best non-custom holsters. The King Tuk is my favorite.
34 is bigger than the G17, I think you meant the G26?
I hate 3 finger guns, so I'd go with the G19.
>short stoke cleaner?
I actually meant to ask if short stroke is cleaner than long stroke. I was wondering if long stroke gas tube goes straight into the receiver and so the fouling gets in there, unlike short stroke where the gasses can be cut off and vented away before they get in the gun. I kind of got it now - long stroke is cleaner than DI as the piston actually blocks the path to the receiver so only the last part of gasses is vented in but short stroke can allow to shield the receiver from expanding gasses in the gas tube entirely.
>I'm pretty sad that we don't have more delayed blow-back guns like the G3.
Because of what soviets did with TKB-517 i'll be mad forever.
>It does have chambering problems once enough gunk gets fouled up inside the receiver,
Most published "torture tests" that I've found show reliable functionality even at 10,000 rounds without a cleaning as long as you use lubes, so I'm a little skeptical of this. Are you sure that's not an issue with your rifle specifically? The only time I've had a feeding issue with my AR was magazine related, and I've fired a few hundreds rounds through it at a time without cleaning. And that was with nitride, not NiB. You are right that DI is dirtier, though.
Sorry, I meant the Glock 43. It was a single stack 9mm, I can remember that much.
Anyone know why the gook K-50M is always listed as having a rate of fire of 700 RPM, despite it literally being a ppsh? The gooks did no modifications to it that would drop the RPM by 200. The only ideas I have is either 1) the source is wrong or 2) the K-50Ms were based off of the Chinese Type-50 SMG, which is slightly different in specs and dimensions than the ppsh-41, and the chinks may have increased bolt mass or some shit, so the T-50 may have had a lower RPM to start off with, so the K-50Ms that they were modified into kept the lower RPM.
Anyone know where I can get the original sauce?
They're cutdown Type 50's. The viets didn't actually manufacture them, just modified them to be as close to the MAT-49's they had, neat thing about them is they converted them to be able to use PPSh drums.
They're not cut down, they just shortened the barrel shroud, the actual barrel is the same length. The Type-50 also takes drums as standard, it doesn't need modifications. If anything, they made it harder to use drums since it blocks the stock from folding.
>The benefits of the gas block are directly proportionate to the power of the ammo you use.
And also the degree to which your weapon is overgassed, for most it's not an issue.
>Then why clean your rifle?
Because a dirty rifle is a magnitude more likely to cause a malfuction than a little bit of overgassing, it's not really about parts wear.
>Why oil it or prevent rust from spreading
OIl is to ensure reliability when firing, the AR-15 was designed to be lubricated, it will help prevent malfunctions and parts wear more than a little less gas.
>prevent rust from spreading
IMO Rust looks pretty ugly, can affect reliability if it gets in the action or accuracy in the barrel, but most AR-15's don't rust really.
>It would need a new bolt sooner if it slams rapidly against the back of the buffer tube
The bolt doesn't slam against the back of the buffer tube, have you ever seen an AR-15 in real life? Because this makes no sense. You need to provide proof to me that a little bit of extra gas will cause an appreciable amount of premature parts wear. The only parts it could possible impact are the bolt and extractor (in a normal rifle of course, an adjustable gas block would be a good thing in a pistol or sbr) and these parts already last a very long time.
>And an adjustable gas block was designed with an AR in mind.
It's a gimmick without a proven history behind it, lots of shit was designed for the AR, what do you gain by adding unnecessary gimmicks like this?
>You know how thick they are compared to your gas tube
Thickness isn't the issue
>It's solid steel in there
No, it's not a solid block of steel, there are several parts which all create weaknesses.
>because it "introduces more moving parts and non homogenous surface in the lower"
The lower receiver doesn't contain any major pressure bearing surfaces your mong
>It literally prevents malfunctions
It CAN prevent malfunctions in certain situations, in these cases I see no issue if someone wants to use it over a stronger buffer spring/heavier buffer
>and parts breakage
Not enough to make it worth it, you keep saying this like it's going to extend the life of you're bolt by 10000 rounds. Your barrel is going to last the same amount of time, so maybe the bolt shears a lug or snaps in half at 20500 rounds instead of 21000, is it really worth it?
>how it's prone to failure because it's not a solid block?
It's more prone to failure than a normal gas block, but it's not a huge issue, about as much of an issue as this near nonexistant premature parts wear you speak of.
> prevents a real one from emerging and helps in mitigating the ones that are most common it's a good tradeoff.
A good tradeoff? There is literally no reason to add a possible catastrophic failure point and more complexity, when there are definite failure points that you know are coming no matter what, a miniscule increase in the life of your bolt or extractor isn't worth shit.
>just like it's an improvement to get a better then standard charging handle
That isn't an improvement, just another useless gimmick, but it seems like you like those.
>The fact that it(the upper receiver) moves at all makes it worse than a monolithic construction of these 2 welded together.
There was never an AR-15 designed with a monolithic receiver, you're missing my point
> isn't an improvement
A hammer forged barrel is an improvement, a BAD lever, new flash hider, carbon fiber handguard, NPI BCG, extended charging handle, or adjustable gas block isn't an improvement, it's a consumerist gimmick sold to the paypig human latrines of the american consumer market, offering almost nothing while sapping you of wealth, and funding the stagnati *cough* sorry, "innovation" in the american gun industry.
>At about 100 rounds I've had to use the forward assist,
Buy a quality gun and you wouldn't have these issues, I've literally magdumped hundreds of rounds of steel cased shit through my AR's and never had issues. Something is wrong with you're gun most likely, the DI Ar-15 is very reliable if set up properly.
Would you mind giving me a parts list?
> and that's with nickel boron bcg.
Jesus christ lad, where did you buy this thing?
Not according to the Marine handbook guide to North Korea. Hell NK manufactured guns won't take stick mags.
> do you need that quality steel BCG
a BCG is literally the heart of you're rifle, you want a part that can withstand the pressure of firing or you stand a SERIOUS risk of having a nasty accident,
barrel really necessary
Again, this is the heart of the rifle, shooting an accurate rifle is good for everyone in every situation.
>Why go with something other than the stock your gun came with?
Good point, you really shouldn't tbh, unless you're building an AR, in which case go with whatever you want, but don't waste money on useless gimmicks.
>you wouldn't gain much from improving your rifle
A quality barrel and BCG make a huge difference when building an AR, otherwise you shouldn't really be adding non stock parts unless you're having major issue that impact the immediate usability of the rifle, or maybe if you got a REALLY bad mil spec trigger, otherwise you shouldn't fiddle with different parts.
I think the handbook is just wrong, I assume they might've gotten a specific gun that was finicky with specific mags and assumed that they were all like that, ppshs are really finicky with mags, I reckon cheap shitty chink tolerances wouldn't help that either. Here's a pic of a T-50 with a stick mag fitted just fine.
>Slow down there cowboy, do you even have a gun?
Not personally, yet. My father does, and I've grown up around them (to an extent). I know all the basics.
I'm sure there's something I could do in the meantime. Like trap making and basic tactics and military thought to read up on.
If an ak bcg was made from forged aluminum and the receiver/trunions were too would it function or explode like a ras47?
Assuming the actual bolt is still steel, maybe. But lifespan will certainly be decreased and the gun will be overgassed as fuck.
Considering shittily heat treated AK bolts and trunnions explode and aluminium is so brittle, no it wouldn't work. There's a reason all the operating parts of the AR-15 are steel.
Aluminium also wears a lot quicker than steel.
>And also the degree to which your weapon is overgassed, for most it's not an issue.
>An issue is not an issue, i'll just throw more parts at it.
>Because a dirty rifle is a magnitude more likely to cause a malfuction than a little bit of overgassing, it's not really about parts wear.
Oh, but it's not an issue. You don't shoot your rifle as much so risk of malfunctions is not an issue for most. By buying cleaning kits and supplies you support AR gimmick industry, you know? How dare you!
>OIl is to ensure reliability when firing
But the gain in reliability is not an issue for most. It's not like they need to improve it, just buy weaker ammo and a new rifle if it blows up, not an issue.
>AR-15 was designed to be lubricated
Muh perfect design. No alterations needed! If you want to improve your rifle you're just pretending things, it won't do anything!
>The bolt doesn't slam against the back of the buffer tube
Bolt carrier, i meant a bolt carrier. It can slam into the back of the tube through the spring if the rifles is overgassed enough. It shouldn't happen.
>a little bit of extra gas will cause an appreciable amount of premature parts wear
>a little bit
"A little bit of gas" isn't the actual case, you doublenigger. Overgassing can cause failure to feed, rapid cycling, sharper pressure spikes and greater risks of cracking parts.
>what do you gain
Literally this whole thread. Improved reliability, smooth and precise action, decrease in recoil, reduction in parts wear and even cleaner operation. The amount of mental gymnastics to ignore all that is astonishing.
>without a proven history behind it
Your retarded bullshit is exactly the reason it has no history in AR, you tripplenigger. Other guns, especially from FN have proven themselves greatly incorporate the design.
>Thickness isn't the issue
Do you know why parts break, you double digit IQ nigger? Because they cannot withstand stress in a certain part so it breaks, cracks or bends and is no longer functional. You fix this by adding more material so that it takes longer to break, especially to weak points that are usually thinner or not supported as good.
>it's not a solid block of steel
It is, for the most part. There's only 1 additional hole in the thing in good designs - it's for the screw and it's still isolated. It's basically the same thing, except the latter has some parts inside it. They both are still thick pieces of solid steel that'll last a lifetime unless your barrel explodes.
>The lower receiver doesn't contain any major pressure bearing surfaces
But it's got parts. Parts! Nothing is allowed to have parts because additional parts instantly make your weapon explode. AR should just crack in two the moment it's put together.
>It CAN prevent malfunctions in certain situations
Like, ALL of them? Because it literally does, as you tune the gasses for the ammo you use. The difference might be miniscule in some cases but it still does improve things which is one of the reasons someone might want it.
>stronger buffer spring/heavier buffer
Overbuilding things to delay problems that can be fixed without anuthing but slight alterations is a way of a brainlet engineer and is one of the reasons we've got so few good gun designs that are left without improvement.
>Not enough to make it worth it
It might not be worth it for you but who the fuck are you to judge others' financial decisions based on your budget and preferences. it's not /leftypol/ here, you know.
>you keep saying this like it's going to extend the life of you're bolt by 10000 rounds
Even 500 would be plenty for me, along with other advantages it brings. Like flawless action for all those 20k+500 rounds.
>add a possible catastrophic failure point
you accuse me of saying about added thousands of rounds durability and then spew this bullshit.
If you are too stupid to handle one more control that does not even need regular attention just admit you're a brainlet instead of projecting this shit on all other gun owners.
>That isn't an improvement, just another useless gimmick
You keep switching between "not enough improvement", "useless gimmick" and "HOLY SHIT COMPLETE FAILURE, DANGER!!11!1".
>There was never an AR-15 designed with a monolithic receiver
Again, muh design.
>a BAD lever
you literally said it yourself. A BAD anything is a bad purchase.
>new flash hider
Low light shooting
>extended charging handle
>you stand a SERIOUS risk of having a nasty accident
Oh, but you don't need that reliability, you aren't shooting it that often so it'll go to waste!
>shooting an accurate rifle is good for everyone in every situation
And shooting a reliable rifle is even better.
>go with whatever you want, but don't waste money on useless gimmicks
>use whatever you like except things i don't like because they are useless gimmicks even though they actually do improve things
Is this what they call a fudd?
ARs are just range toys. Anyone who pays more than $500 for one is a dipshit.
If SHTF, I'm leaving it behind and using my Mauser instead.
Main problem with the Century AKs is that only the left locking shoulder is in contact with the bolt. If they used proper measurements then maybe their shitty manufacturing wouldn't be beaten up so badly.
Jesus christ, all you've done this entire time is misunderstand or misrepresent everything that I post, is english not your first language or some shit? Anyways, I'm done, I guess you can fellate yourself over your victory if you want.
At the end of the day, unless you have some bad issues with overgassing somehow severely impacting reliability (maybe you should have put $100 dollars towards a quality barrel or rifle), there isn't a good reason to buy one of these things, you're just inventing a problem in your mind (of parts wear) and buying another slick gimmick to stick on your rifle.
>rifle is fine, upgrades are gimmicks
I get where you're coming from, but I think you're taking it a step too far. Yes, a $450 M4 clone M16 if you want a man's barrel length is almost certainly "good enough" for your purposes and will do you no wrong, but that doesn't mean there's zero room for improvement. Take charging handles, the example you used. Premium charging handles are to some extent an extravagance, and aren't necessary for a duty-issue gun. But tehy do make the gun easier to operate, especially if you get a "gas-busting" charging handle which redirects gases away from your face. So even though they're a luxury, I wouldn't call them a gimmick as they serve a genuine function. Same with the assorted Wundercoats available for BCGs; obviously a plain old phosphate or nitride carrier will do you fine and will function perfectly. A premium coating won't let your rifle do anything it couldn't do before, but it does allow the rifle to go longer without a re-lubing, and allows it to function to some extent without lube at all (not that you should ever run your rifle dry).
>upgrades are gimmicks
Not what I'm saying, uprades are upgrades, and gimmicks are gimmicks.
>a $450 M4 clone
You'd be better off spending $500 more or building an AR rather than "upgrading one.
> gun easier to operate
How often are you even using the charging handle? Now you added a metal hook that will hang on gear and poke you in the chest in exchange for a slight improvement in something you barely use. Everything is a trade off.
>get a "gas-busting" charging handle
Not an issue unless you have an SBR or are running a suppressor, or both.
> A premium coating
You should spend the money on a premium BCG/Rifle, the coating should come next, and if you want something functional get it chrome plated.
>extent without lube at all (not that you should ever run your rifle dry).
Phosphated BCG's can already do this, has there even been a test to see if these "slick" coatings help with lubing? As far as I know, battlefield las vegas(The range that runs full autos ten hours a day 364 days a year) decided that these "slick' coatings didn't offer much. You can google it yourself.
I'm not saying these products are bad, but do they really offer that much of an advantage when you should be putting the money towards optics, a barrel,a quality BCG and perhaps optics (also, magnified optics past 4x for 5.56 AR's are dumb, even 4x is pushing it, unless you have bad eyes or some shit)
>optics, a barrel,a quality BCG and perhaps optics
Delete the first optics, I'm tired.
>Not what I'm saying, upgrades are upgrades, and gimmicks are gimmicks.
Fair enough. What I meant was if you approach new products with too much cynicism, you might start dismissing useful upgrades as gimmicks. Also, I know this line is overused but there's a spectrum between upgrade and gimmick: what you might call a gimmick I might call "genuinely useful, but because the performance increase is small for the price it can be seen as gimmicky for must buyers". I've taken "buy once, cry once" to a somewhat autistic extreme so I'm willing to buy parts that improve performance but probably aren't necessary for most users.
>Now you added a metal hook that will hang on gear and poke you in the chest in exchange for a slight improvement in something you barely use
Couldn't agree more. The ambi and "gasbusting" charging handle I use isn't a whole lot wider than the mil-spec, and is half the price of other Gucci handles on the market.
>the coating should come next, and if you want something functional get it chrome plated.
Chrome's nice and all, but I prefer those PVD coatings that are available myself. And I get what you mean about spending the money on functional shit, but like I said, autism.
>As far as I know, battlefield las vegas(The range that runs full autos ten hours a day 364 days a year) decided that these "slick' coatings didn't offer much. You can google it yourself.
Yeah, I've read the arfcom threads. I don't think they've explicitly said anything about those coatings yet (most of the last few posts are people asking for feedback on 'em), but I would imagine that the general takeaway is "yeah, these are better, but with our high volumes and maintenance cycles it's far more economical to just use a little more lube."
>has there even been a test to see if these "slick" coatings help with lubing?
They've been proven to have a lower coefficient of friction, and testing out mine I can say the cycling is noticeably smoother than milspec phosphate.
I suppose if making these purchases makes you feel better I can't dissuade you, but the money people spend on this stuff (including you) would be better spent on ammo, magazines, and practice (and a quality rifle and parts in the first place). I just can't see these as upgrades when what they offer is so minimal, and sometimes they come with their own drawbacks, and I'd advise against further funding this shit industry, but I can't stop you or say that you're doing something THAT egregious. I used to be a shit eating AR accessory lover and I regret it.
I've just learned there's an 80% shotgun receiver about to be made available. Kinda spendy because every frame comes with the jig and tooling, so $450 and it still needs the shotgun front half and the AR-15 back half but …
Having built an AR-15, and never having looked very close at a shotgun, is there an assembled parts-kit for the mossberg 500, or would someone care to list all the "replacement parts" I'll need to build a 500 (or 590) ?
Here's the link to Logic Industries' 80% sale-someday page: https 80percentshotgun (com)
I want to buy my dad a nice holster for Christmas. What does /k/ recommend for a 9mm M&P Shield?
Raven Concealment, G-Code, Galco, T-Rex arms
Is FMJ cheaper to produce than soft points? Could training ammo double as effective one if the military wasn't stupid?
Galco or DeSantis. Anyone else is only for obscure/older guns and the CZ P-07
Hague. We now use hollow-point 9mm because we never that non-sense, but avoid it for 5.56 because of interchangeability.
i know, which is exactly why i asked if soft points cost more to produce in perfect conditions, i.e. if there are any technical difficulties that would impact the price without taking economy of scale into consideration.
>We now use hollow-point 9mm
They'll use this as an argument to not change it for something better later, screen this post. Just like they did with 6mmSAW and M855.
Does a minigun have cylinder gap? Could you suppress it if you overcame the lifespan issues?
A minigun is a set of barrels that each have their own chamber, so there is no cylinder gap. Think of it more as a pepperbox than a revolver.
>Could you suppress it?
There would be no reason to since it's not exactly a precision weapon and the only way to aim is by using tracers.
So, guys, are soft points more expensive to produce or not?
polite sage for doublepost
I have to do a 6-page paper on the Rhodesian Bush War and need at least 5 sources on the start of the conflict, the war, and the aftermath. Don't know the specifics of the war and its politics so help would be taken kindly.
Was joking about people who do stuff with old rations then wondered it seriously: Would meth from old US rations be grandfathered and legal? I know there was controversy during prohibition about existing alcohol and the apparent decision was "ordinarily yes, but prohibition was an amendment". That was before FDR shat on the Constitution though.
I'm pretty sure a law needs an explicit grandfather clause for things to be grandfathered in. You're still in possession of a controlled substance.
What's going on in Yemen?
KSA & proxies are gearing up for yet another push on Hudaydah, while Houthis are raiding across the border into the KSA.
read handful of hard men, three sips of gin, ian smith's biography. that should get you started.
This isn't the right place to ask, I know
I have recently bought a campfire lighter that takes this special fuel and pumps it out, it then gets lit by a pilot light
I have run out of fuel and a canister Is very expensive
I want to make some fuel myself
I have used Vaseline in it before and it worked but I ran out
Gasoline doesn't work
Help me /k/
so if you live in a free state without gun registrations, do you still have to fill out a form to obtain a firearm?
If so, isn't that just gun registration anyways?
Yes you have to fill a 4473 every time you commercially buy a gun. Its adherent to the Privacy Act of 1974.
Then what is the point of not having registration? Won't the FBI know that I have the gun anyways?
But muh takings clause.
Teeechnically, the registration is just the sale of the gun from an FFL, you can buy private from non-FFLs or sell it yourself if you're so inclined.
I'm looking for a Soviet Military Propaganda Film from the 70s/80s maybe.
This video had soldiers in gas masks firing weapons over and around the camera out in a desert where a nuclear test had just been conducted. They were just hip-firing RPKs and AK47s. It looked like A-Team action movie shit. It has a baby-blue blown-out whites and bright blacks aestheticc to it. Would be rad if somone know what I was talking about.
Only thing I know that would fit that description is that PLA propaganda video where they basically do the exact thing you just described. Are you sure it was a Soviet propaganda film?
Dunno if you’re still here but
>be great in Chemistry
>do research for all of undergrad
>be published, awarded, and lauded for your works
>proceed to be overqualified for all jobs in your area because of experience
>meet grill in church
>her grandma starts dying
>stay with her and take time off to care for her dying grandma
>find out they were old oil money in West Texas.
>proceed to inherit vast tracts of land and about a mil
>buy 80 acres of land nearby hometown and set up a sheep ranch
>get married and have one baby on the way
All that in the span of a year. Life comes at you sometimes and sometimes you come at it.
Off topic, but don’t want to double post, can anyone recommend good Milsurp jackets to work in? It’s getting cold out here in the mornings, and my local Milsurp store only had repros of US forest pattern, MARPAT, and MULTICAM. Wanting something a bit more fitting of a /k/omrade than those. Also need rec’s on a good holster for a SR45 for carrying around our land.
Yeah, that was chinkshit
I visit from time to time. That's an interesting development- hope things go well in the future!
> Won't the FBI know that I have the gun anyways?
More the ATF provided they actually go through the bound book from wherever you bought from. The guy who owns the store probably knows more than the ATF on any given day.
does human fat have protective value at all? Like do fatasses have any advantages while getting shot over normal people ?
Not really. It might have a little bit of effect but not much. Thin people on the other side have an advantage with modern shitty bullets like military FMJ because bullets have less time in tissue to yaw and so icepick more cleanly. Fatasses do have advantage against being hit though.
Do you know of any attempts to integrate hyperburst functionality like the AN94 into a HMG for the purpose of penetrating legacy armoured vehicles like cold war APCs etc?
That's quite a story, anon. Sorry to hear about your gf's grandmother, but it sounds like you're living life to the fullest. Flecktarn parkas are a nice cold weather option. Alternatively, you could get a regular surplus top of your choosing, and wear a fleece or liner underneath.
Looking for a Russian song/music video that was posted in the webm thread long ago. All I remember was that the title and opening lyrics involved something about a flying bullet (пуля), and a lot of the lyrics were about freedom (свобода). Anyone have it?
That .webm gave me cancer, please do not post it ever again ok.
is my understanding on Russian Gun laws correct.
>you have to be 18 to own a firearm
>you have to be mentally sound
>you need to get a license
>you need safely store your firearms in a safe
>once you get your license you can own shotguns and other smooth-bore weapons for a certain amount of years
>after a certain amount of years with a shotgun you can own a rifle
>After a certain amount of years with a rifle you can own a pistol.
Only in extreme cases. I have read a case report wherein a morbidly obese subject (over 500 pounds) took a half dozen rounds of 9mm hollowpoints to the gut without serious injury. The hollowpoints expanded and stopped before exiting the fatty abdominal layer. Of course it's not any sort of valid defensive strategy as the thickness of fat is much less on all other parts of the body. He just got lucky by getting shot in the thickest section. Secondly for those bullets that do make it through being obese severely impacts your chances of recovery.
Do you know what it was called?
It's okay Greece, I have other bonbi webms from kohl.
Not, not really.
>you have to be 18(prob more) to get a hunting license that allows you to get smoothbore firearms and ammo to them. There are restrictions on amounts of ammo and you are not allowed to reload.
>You do it through police that is the worst thing ever existed
>dunno about safes, probably yes, definitely for more than 2(?) guns.
>you need to renew your license ever year or so, iirc
>you need to own smoothbore long gun to be allowed to obtain a rifled barrel long gun, with that AK smg in 9mm being the shortest.
>your journey ends here
>no handguns are allowed whatsoever unless laws do not apply to you which is often the case
>you can reload now but there are still plenty of inconveniences that can get you into trouble, also the ammo is mostly steel
>everything is expensive as hell, the cheapest shit you can buy is like 450$(it's a 22lr, though AKs are almost the same, mb 100$ more at best, you get the same Molot and Vepr, all semi auto, ofk), and it's with average wages 150-200$/month in all but 2 cities.
Women who try to act tough just need 1 good slap to put them in their place.
Trashy whitetumblr people culture
Kino taste, she wants a real man, gone from the thot he is with, that perfectly balanced mid riff, while she still knows her place between the relationship. She sluts for a strong man to produce a worthy seed.
Also, self defense will get you in jail so easily you're better off not going anywhere or even hiding yourself or the body, because if you kill some and get caught chances to get v& are close to 100%, and that's with basic weapons. If you use a gun, they grow quadratically.
This is now a bonbi thread
you dumb nigger
Imagine if hatechan worked
I never really wanted to murder someone, but if I saw her on the streets, id do it with everyone watching.
I won't post anymore bonbi for the sake of the thread but I'd still appreciate it if I could get some opinions extrapolated regarding >>622341
This better be a fucking VPN. No fucking way a aus could be so shit at banter. Specially with you worshipping some slag whore cunt.
What are the ballistic differences in a 223. FMJ and Softpoint bullet? How much better than the FMJ would the SP bullet be for soft targets? Im currently stocking up on ammo and can get both types for nearly the same price.
Ballistically probably the same, fmj will icepick most of the time and might fragment if they yaw, which is not often and they don't always fragment even if they do. Soft points are way better performers, i'm not sure if they fragment or expand but in either case you'll get a whole bigger hole that might actually cause enough damage to stop someone or will fragment and act like the round was designed to, except more reliably. Always get soft points if you can, fmj is the worst ammo choice there can be, including cast bullets. There were cases in which a .308 couldn't reliably stop a charging gook somewhere often enough to become an issue, and switching to simple soft points fixed it.
External ballistics are more or less the same. The FMJ will have a little less drag and fly a little farther but not enough to make a practical difference. There's a yuge difference on soft targets , SP boolits expand rather than fragment, and the resulting wound cavity is much more devastating. If you can find SP for the same price as FMJ go for it, it's usually at least 50% more expensive. Keep a couple mags full for home defense purposes and store the rest in a cool, dry place.
thx. Another Question: Would HP bullets "expand" like in the picture or is that just a one in a million?
In general, hollow points are going to be less effective performers in rifle cartridges, IIRC all of the energy goes towards expansion and you don't get good penetration. Most defense/hunting rounds for 5.56 are SP for a reason.
you're the dumb nigger you communist Canadian faggot cuck, its been confirmed that she is a 19 year old real girl.
WHY DO WE EVEN SIDE WITH THESE FUCKING SUBHUMANS? THEY ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE DEATH OF MILLIONS OF OUR PEOPLE EVER SINCE THE DAWN OF TIME
WE LET THEM TEST THEIR AIRCRAFT AGAINST OUR S-300 SO THEY CAN GET A FIRST-HAND SAFE EXPERIENCE ON THE LIMITS OF THAT SYSTEM, WE TRAIN OUR OPERATORS WITH THEM AND WE SHAKE HANDS.
JUST FUCKING NUKE US BOTH AT THIS POINT HOLY SHIT, I WOULD FUCKING QUIT BEFORE EVER TRAINING ALONGSIDE THESE KIKES
If you like fucking men, why make them dress up as women first.
>not outjewing the jew and dragging them in a war of mutual extermination with the roaches under the promise of oil-shekels
Silly, ανων, we miscegenated with (((Phoenicians))) for a reason.
>He would let anyone interfere with our own, personal war
The only one allowed to fight the Turks is Greece and nobody else. I would genocide anyone who would ever attempt to "aid the Greeks". The thing we have with Turkey is personal. There's no room for anyone else in our little millennium-old never-ending war. Turks need to be wiped out down to the last mudslime child by the hands of a Greek. It would be a fucking insult against the very human nature, against God himself and the universe to have them killed by anyone else.
Fuck the kikes, fuck the albanians, fuck skopje and fuck the turks, and fuck anyone who tries and interfere.
You're acting all selfish now. Your wrath is rightful but roach removal isn't for personal vindication, it's a service to all sentient life even if it will be our final and greatest contribution to it since our ethnogenesis.
There's nothing more righteous than removing two khazars with one stake.
What about other countries lending you weapons systems to test on the Turks?
You get to genocide them and the rest of us get valuable testing data. Everyone wins! Except for the Turks, of course.
>Except for the Turks, of course
Dunno about it, man. Putting down rape victims with Stockholme syndrome towards their long dead rapists sounds like an act of mercy, especially when they are also genetically disabled.
It is too late Strelok, I did an all-nighter and got an A on it.
>roach removal isn't for personal vindication, it's a service to all sentient life
Roach removal is the only thing left for us. In the past we could offer the world science and philosophy, but no longer. Even literally-who countries produce more scientists and philosophers than we currently do. We are completely and utterly outmatched in the very things we once created.
Taking revenge against the Ottoman plague is our last and final mission. Until we ourselves slaughter them all, we will never again in the entire human history that is left, be great and most importantly relevant again.
We should have our own weapons and industry. To take on the Turk we need to be 100% self-sustainable first.
Your rage is an inspiration.
What condition is the mauser in and what quadrant of the state are you in?
if your in the NE I might be interested
Suggestions for a dead killy semi auto rifle or sbr that can take a beating, is cheap, retard proof simple, and heavy? I'm not a leaf, I live in texas
I'd say AK, but honestly I'm not so sure they qualify as cheap anymore since the sub-$600 ones tend to beat themselves to death due to poor riveting (looking at you, IO). Century PTR91 isn't so bad every once and again there's a bad one. Atlantic Firearms generally does a good job sending the worst of them back to the factory instead of shipping them to you. There are good AR-15's in the $500 range, but I'm not sure if they really qualify as "heavy". Not sure why you want that as a requirement really. SKS would fit the bill if you don't mind the 10 round magazine. Ruger's Mini-14 and Mini-30 are almost the ticket but can be finicky and magazines are fuckshit expensive.
Favorite FLGS is offering me an FAL for a grand. I’m debating between that and a C308/PTR 91. Any recommendations?
>Mini-14 and Mini-30
>take a beating
Any first gun recommendations for a poorfag in uni?
Preferably a handgun
Savage 64f and pic related.
Eh, I see them go for ~$650 which I don't think is all that expensive, they're pretty sturdy, and they're not any harder to use than similar rifles. Only issues are the expensive magazines. Mini series got a bad rap due to accuracy issues which were mainly caused by Ruger being retarded about dimensions of the chamber/barrel which seems to be fixed now.
small enough to conceal carry, big enough to be very comfortable.
those BTHP bullets are not designed for any kind of expansion, and that's not really a hollow point. That hole in the front is part of the BTHP design, which is for maximum ballistic coefficiency. BTHP are for pure accuracy.
just get an AR, you'll thank me later.
>Eh, I see them go for ~$650 which I don't think is all that expensive
You can build a good AR and maybe AK for that much, and it's objectively worse than either.
Any solid suggestions for good over-and-under/side-by-side shotguns? Preferably fairly cheap makes (£200-£500 range).
What is the best medieval armour that offered the best mobility/protection. I was looking at roman armour. Is it possible to even make one medieval armours by hand nowadays or is it cheaper to buy from some Larp shop.
I wanted to wear one to some commie demonstration and bash their heads in. It should preferably be hideable under some bigass black hoodie preferably.
I'm trying to find this mid-2000's TV show where they had a single probably retired PJ try to complete an assortment of missions (gathering intel, hostage rescue, etc) against an OPFOR made up of 5 other probably former military dudes and they all had simunition.
Anyone knows what show that is? For the life of me I can't remeber the name and my google fu is failing me.
I remember that one too, can't think of the name.There was one episode on a ship, that was cool.
Baikal, they do both O/U and SxS. Its cheap slav shit brand new, even cheaper used.
What did they mean by this?
Yeah they seem to come up a lot when I search stores for shotguns, seem to be able to get a good quality used one for around £150-200, thanks leafanon.
Calipatria is a small, town, I would go as far as to say it's nearly a ghost town. Same with Desert Shores, and Slab City is that one Anarchist Hippy town
I honestly don't think anyone gave a fuck about a dick in the sky over the rotting pile of dead fish that is the Dalton Sea. Might've been the richfags over in Indio and Coachella Valley nearby
>What is the best medieval armour that offered the best mobility/protection.
Plate while riding on a horse with plate barding. Alternatively: A mass of conscripts around you.
>flight path ejaculating over Salt-on City
So I got a SW M&P9c and was wondering what ammo should I buy? Trying to get into shooting. So anything that's the cheapest works? What about the ammo for conceal carry? What do I use? Should I buy 2 magazines? I got 1 with the extended grip and the non extended grip. Why are magazines $30??? how? Also when I am fucking around with my gun, I can't seem to focus on the rear sight at all if I have both my eyes open. Any idea on how to practice just looking down sights? I don't want to close my left eye. How do I go shopping for holsters and how do I practice conceal carrying? Should I take a class?
>So I got a SW M&P9c and was wondering what ammo should I buy?
Experiment with bullet weights, though keep in mind that 9x19 needs that sweet spot between weight and speed to perform well.
Generally, though, you want something that you're most accurate with and provides consistent groupings.
Other anons or even YouTube videos could provide a good choice for that specific barrel length, though.
>So anything that's the cheapest works? What about the ammo for conceal carry? What do I use?
Cheap shit for plinking just to get used to recoil and possibly aiming, you don't want high-dollar shit since you'll have to cycle through ammunition eventually(every month or so is a good idea) and it might bleed your wallet.
>Should I buy 2 magazines? I got 1 with the extended grip and the non extended grip.
Magazines are up to you, typically one in the gun and one on the side is the standard though it all depends on how you carry it. Having about three mag pouches on your belt or a bunch of loose mags in your pocket is a bit conspicuous.
>Why are magazines $30???
Lucky, the mags for my Shield are more expensive.
>Also when I am fucking around with my gun, I can't seem to focus on the rear sight at all if I have both my eyes open. Any idea on how to practice just looking down sights? I don't want to close my left eye.
Practice while shooting, learn which of the two sight pictures you have to look at.
>How do I go shopping for holsters
Holsters can be bought almost anywhere.
>how do I practice conceal carrying?
Make sure you don't print excessively with the clothing you wear.
Walk around the house with it, practice retrieving your
pistol from concealment. Holstering it is good to practice but that's something you can take your time with.
>Should I take a class?
If you want. Most of them are run by assholes who think they're better than they really are and just want your money, and reputable classes are run by other assholes who travel from state to state.
Weren't the 7.62x39mm guns bored to .308 instead of .311 because "them there 7.62s is all the same"?
I used to work with a guy on Livermore's SRT. They aren't all veterans, but most are. They train all the time and have never had a real "event" (which I suppose it overall a good thing, but it's tougher to stay motivated that way). He said it actually largely sucked, especially as the protected area at LLNL is pretty small and it gets boring. He was in grad school to get up and out.
Also, fun fact: local EMS won't come help you until the scene is secure, because anyone showing up once the balloon has gone up (that isn't using link-up procedures the locals don't do) is considered hostile. Also, they had full authority to pursue stolen material wherever needed (as in take the fight to downtown San Francisco if it were somehow called for). They are all sworn Federal LE with limited arrest powers, but as noted they are not government employees.
He flew pretty good, who wants to try next?
Can anyone gib some good Milsurp sites. I already regular kommandostore, verusteleka, and SG. Just wanting to broaden my scope on prices.
Anyone got some .pdfs on Selous Scout training in terms of fitness?
You could check out Keep Shooting, Hessen Antique, and Mike's Militaria. It's also a good time to order from Swiss Link! :^)
>Swiss Link! :^)
Is there a problem with Swiss Link or something? I was just about to order some stuff from them.
Ivan burned down their warehouse in a fit of jealous rage because they had a cheaper and more expansive selection.
Well goddammit, where am I going to get my Alpenflage now?
does anyone have any idea if a PSO scope can fit on an AR rail without modification?
I like the PSO scopes better than Western ones
<Fudds calling it a sniper scope
My durr rifle's scope hits the back of my safe before the barrel hits the barrel rest.
Is it okay to just let it lean on the scope or is that a big nono?
I do it and I have never had any trouble with it. Modern scopes with good rings are pretty solid, unlike what the old coots say.
Thanks straya, then I'll just leave it as is.
If you're on kalinka they've got a few with weaver style mounts.
What Kalashnikovs are these?
>tfw cancelled my order before it got here
Invidious embed. Click thumbnail to play.
How much soy is in the US military?
Was reading Newark's Camouflage and came across this picture. Tineye, google, yandex, yahoo, saucenao did not help, neither did looking up the french manual it supposedly came from. Any info / high-res version of it? I rike it
>even suggesting purchasing a license for a picture on the internet
Not what i'm looking for, obviously. A high-res must be out there not under fucking png tax!
oh yeah and by "did not help" i meant the free one since you seem dense
Increasing by the day. Until the demoralization of both the military and the nation is reversed, it will not get any better. It doesn't help that academia is poisoning the junior officers, and it doesn't help parents are harming their kids with crap food, and it doesn't help when the top brass, starting with the CnC, keeps pushing (or letting them stay, in this case) polices that utterly cripple the military's combat readiness, discipline, and comradery.
One of the largest problems I feel is the academic sludge that washes into the junior office corps. Of all the other lts, cpts, and mjrs I had the pleasure of meeting, the ones I felt I could actually trust and work with can be counted on one hand. The rest either just blindly go through the motions some non-soy, some soy, overly self-absorbed mostly soy, some female, too "high and mighty" condescending mostly female, some soy, lazy and full of excuses also female, but also soy, or a combination of the above. The morally weakest individuals are located here, as they simply do not give a shit about their duty or their charges. I would happily dismiss the entire office corps and rebuild it from scratch if I ever got the chance never ever, because they do demonstrable damage time and time again.
Well that's the paid original, you aren't going to get higher quality than that.
I bought this for 150 bucks new. Did I fuck up? I've never actually purchased any handguns before since it's such a fucking hassle in this state, but I figured i'd get something small for concealed carry.
>asking if a gun is good after you already buy it
If I had a dollar for every time someone did this shit I'd have enough money to buy each of you a Glock or S&W. But I wouldn't.
>Did I fuck up?
Yes, because you didn't research it you moron.
Maybe don't buy the cheapest thing you see.
>you didn't research it!
you don't go into a LGS looking for a specific gun, if you want specific you go online or make calls. I went there looking for an affordable handgun. I ask now because if it's actually trash i can still get a refund instead of taking it to the range and getting disappointed.
If it will work for you at the range, it will work for you concealed.
>you don't go into a LGS looking for a specific gun
>I went there looking for an affordable handgun
So instead of looking up affordable handguns at home you decided to go in blind and just buy the cheapest piece of shit you could find and then ask an Indonesian underwater basketweaving forum if you did good for buying a Taurus?
I've looked it up, I've watched videos, I haven't seen the plans for it, but I still don't understand Static Line Parachuting.
Is there a line extending down from the plane to the ground or is the line the line in the plane? I appreciate your answers.
The G2 is a solid gun. Think about replacing the recoil spring assembly with a steel one, and remember they can run Sig 226 mags as well. Taurus has issues, but generally the G2's, Beretta knockoffs and 1911's are good to go.
The line is/attached to the pull cord, Basically paratroopers attach a carabiner to a rod inside the aircraft and the line is long enough so when it goes taunt the chute pops at a safe distance away from the craft and at the right altitude.
<Thanking a leaf
What do you expect for a good junior officer? Was thinking about signing but the horror stories I hear from enlisted and commissions makes me wonder how the us armed forces don't have more blue on blue situations.
Is there any information out there on the small unit tactics used by IRA Flying Columns during the Irish War of Independence 1919–21? I am specifically interested in the specifics of how they conducted operations.
Thanks anon, I get it now
thinking about doing a micro chest rig and suspended belt setup. do yall see a reason why this combination wouldnt work?
i want to use the ferro concepts slickster or the spiritus systems PC, with the direct action gear mosquito harness and inner belt thing, pics andlinks related
chest rig, either
or Spiritus rig
with mosquito harness
and mosquito belt
does anyone know anything about SORD? they have some ridiculous deals on plate carriers right now.
adding more stuff because flood detection lol
Would a m1 carbine work good in a SHTF scenario?
You could use it but you're better off with using anything in a more common caliber, that is itself more common and is a rifle shooting a rifle round. It's basically a rare PCC using rare ammo that doesn't offer that much effectiveness over more modern ones.
Do firing pins break in open bolt firearms? If so, do you have to get a new bolt or they are possible to be repaired/changed? Are there any open bolt designs that allow interchangeable firing pins without modifying the bolt, i.e. separate?
Also, are there any laws or polices that prohibit manufacture of cheap firearms(that are otherwise legal) in US? Your market seems filled with high-end options mostly, if we consider 500$ AR high end from engineering and manufacturing standpoint. Why aren't there more throwaway blowback "pistols" and pistol caliber carbines when they are the simplest and cheapest to make? At least polymer pistols are plenty.
>Do firing pins break in open bolt firearms?
Most firing pins in open bolt guns are just a nub on the bolt face, so it's stupidly hard to break. Very few have a separate pin, but sure that can break somehow.
>If so, do you have to get a new bolt or they are possible to be repaired/changed?
Repairs generally involve finding and adequately sized steel rod, drilling a hole where the last firing pin nub was, and either welding it or otherwise permanently attaching it.
For separate pins it all depends on how it breaks.
>Are there any open bolt designs that allow interchangeable firing pins without modifying the bolt, i.e. separate?
There sure are, but they're fairly specific and atypical due to how much more that costs to manufacture.
>are there any laws or polices that prohibit manufacture of cheap firearms(that are otherwise legal) in US?
No, we have cheap shit in stores but nobody talks about them except to laugh at people who buy them.
Jimenez is still in business and some online retailers have incredibly generic looking shitpieces.
Hi-Point is the most reliable of the cheap pistols, though they either run or they don't.
>Why aren't there more throwaway blowback "pistols" and pistol caliber carbines when they are the simplest and cheapest to make?
Bad press if your gun is commonly used by gang members and bad press for the price point by gun owners even if it's perfectly reliable.
The only reason Glock is seen as perfect despite an entire run being prone to exploding due to a lack of case head support is because they cost as much as other pistols - Gaston wanted to sell them for cheap but marketing told him people wouldn't buy it.
What did Peter Jackson's WWI documentary mean by this?
How much on parts and ammo you gonna stock up on?
Where the fuck can I find and buy old or obscure camo patterns? I want the goretex desert night/desert day reversible camo, or a desert roherdisan camo jacket, or flecktarn snow camo, or the swedish m90 camo jacket, or the finnish snow camo etc. Why are these camos so hard to find?
which model of dragon dildo makes the good baton anyway? asking for home defense
>Where the fuck can I find and buy old or obscure camo patterns?
Scour the internet and be ready to pay out the ass.
>Why are these camos so hard to find?
Non-commercial camouflage is already a relatively niche market and copies of such are typically not to the same standards since the mindset is more for money than actual effectiveness. I know Germoney is scrapping all its flecktarn, regular or otherwise, because it's ending up on partisans and rebels and they don't want that connection and the Rhodesian camo market lasts about as long as a snowball in hell because of its cult following, but the Swede and Finnish shit is a bit out of left field even for autistic standards.
God help you if you want WW2 German camo, shit either doesn't match the originals or it's reenactment-tier garb that's made out of rice paper or just too expensive to be considered for normal use.
I've read that modern aluminum canteens and bottles use liners that leech BPA into the water. Is this true with old ones like the M-1910 as well, or are they bad for other reasons?
Are Molot Veprs worth investing into?
If so, what caliber would be best to buy into? Right now I am finding bulk .223/5.556, 7.62x36, and 5.46x39 for similar prices. Same for 7.62 NATO and 7.62x51r.
Is there any real difference between the "FM-AKs" and the rifles with the thumb hole stock furniture?
Heavier than your average AK which, while the AK doesn't push several tons on its worst day, can be a problem if you want to get tacticool.
Also with the tangled importation bans or what-ifs involved it's not a bad idea to get one now rather than later.
hoo boy, let's go
AKs in 5.56 are notorious for their firing pins setting off primers when racking the bolt. While it won't do it every time, there's enough room in the firing pin channel and enough momentum to give the round a proper strike when you aren't meaning to.
(((They))) like to downplay it or say it's akin to being struck by lightning but it's common enough to be a legitimate issue.
Magazine acquisition is also a massive pain in the dick unless you have a STANAG adapter slapped in. But why wouldn't you?
Apart from that it's not a bad choice since it's enough of a rival to 5.45 without having to scour the earth for ammunition if imports ever quit or not even CheaperThanDirt has it in stock.
There's shitloads of cheap ammo.
The downside is that, ballistic-ally , it's got quite a downward arc after a few hundred yards. ~300 is fine with irons if you've got good handling ability.
At this point it's a hipster round. It's a good round, even as surplus shit, but importation is bottlenecked(no pun intended) and you'll have to order it online most of the time from usually-unreliable sources.
<real fuckin' NATO
Good caliber, haven't heard much about the AKs in that chambering.
For what it's worth, Ian from ForgottenWeapons got that as his first AK and hated it.
Weighs quite a lot, recoil is pretty bad, and magazines aren't as easy to get as x39 mags.
Pointless now that ammunition costs have pushed into the fudd-round ranges. x51 can do all it does and more without a rimmed case and being more common.
If you want a meme round that spits fire out sub-20" barrels, sure.
>Is there any real difference between the "FM-AKs" and the rifles with the thumb hole stock furniture?
As far as I know the FM models just have the side-folding stock. For x51 or x54r it would be a very bad decision since that tiny thing will dump lots of recoil into you.
>and you'll have to order it online most of the time from usually-unreliable sources.
It's true that you have to order online, but you're making out availability to be a bigger problem than it really is. I can always find 5.45 on ammoseek no problem, and it's price-competitive with 5.56.
It's in an iffy space. I'll admit that I don't know where our current imports are being sourced from and that it very well could have been reversed, but over the years I've seen it go out of stock often enough which pushed me away from buying a rifle in that caliber.
>It's in an iffy space. I'll admit that I don't know where our current imports are being sourced from
Silver/Brown Bear, TulAmmo, and most of the other import brands all come from Russia to my knowledge, while the Hornady stuff is produced domestically. And yeah, your reservations are understandable, especially for buying online, but there are such things as reliable online sellers. SGAmmo for instance is a top-tier source, and they always seem to have Silver Bear in stock.
>Silver/Brown Bear, TulAmmo, and most of the other import brands all come from Russia to my knowledge
Right, I forgot they and Wolf lucked out from being hit by the sanctions.
I concede, you've made a fair point.
Are there any good US AK-74 (not AKM) manufacturers besides Rifle Dynamics? With prices on imported 74s being what they are (even Romy guns are going for 700+), the jump to a high-end custom gun doesn't seem so large. Are Meridian Ordnance any good?
Anyone know the best place to snag some KS90s? Ivan has them for $60 USD but he has gone all upmarket with Redditors and I'm not sure where the cheapest place to get them now would be.
I did a quick search myself for similar reasons today, a bong company called surplusandoutdoors has them for ~40 USD before shipping. It looks like theirs are "used and refurbished" whereas Ivan has mostly unissued stock, though. I'm also not inclined to trust the website as they have several misspellings and refer to the boots as "swedish" in the description. And as cancerous as redditors are, you have to learn to live with the fact that they'll flock around anything once it gets popular enough in meatspace. You can't truly escape them without withdrawing from the civilized world entirely, and as tempting as it is to do just that sometimes I'm not quite ready for it.
>ask Ivan about possibility of Alpenflage stock in the future
<maybe, but it's not a priority right now
>three days later only major supplier of Alpenflage burns down in mysterious fire
>one week later Ivan starts selling Swiss boots
>Ivan's twatter feed is now nonstop Swissposting
that was a very niggerlicious webm
Bought an Argentine Mauser from a gun show. I took her a part, cleaned all the rust caked on her and in the barrel. Can't tell if there are any signs of pitting, but the barrel and rifling looks smooth as well as the bolt. Question is should I check to see if her head spacing is good enough and if so is there a way I can do that without tools?
>Question is should I check to see if her head spacing is good enough
>and if so is there a way I can do that without tools?
Expedient way of checkingRead: Poorfag method is to put a square of electrical tape(masking tape if desperate) over the base of a round and attempt to chamber it.
If it doesn't chamber, you're good. If it chambers, you're pretty fucked since turning down a barrel with iron sights mounted is a pain.
Good news is that Argentine Mausers in their obscure chambering typically aren't shot enough to be knocked out of proper headspace.
>but he has gone all upmarket with Redditors
Couldn't handle all the bullying?
>What do you expect for a good junior officer?
It's not hard to be a good officer, junior or otherwise. A decent officer is simply the embodiment of a Senior NCO, but without the development of personal relationships with enlisted men under you command. It's about balancing being a father-figure, while also willing to sacrifice the life of 19 year olds that rely on you for everything without question if the mission requires it.
Some excellent officers?
Oliver P. Smith
Theodore Roosevelt Jr.
George S. Patton, Jr.
If you want a PCC, find one in a more common caliber.
Going durr hunting on my land this weekend with a neighbor. East Texas whitetail. Have a K31 and Chink police SKS. Which raifu to take and any other tips for a good shot, but hunting rookie?
Either will work, just don't use FMJ's and actually be able to hit with whatever gun you're using. Make sure your hunting ammo has the same point of aim as the FMJ's you hunt tincans, and Xbox's with, if not practice a little before going out and getting bambi. Oh and be downwind, deer will probably smell you before you see them.
How worthwhile is it to build a piston AR?
Worthwhile in what sense? If you really want an external piston AR of course it can be done, but you're not really increasing functionality or reliability by doing so, leaving you with the same gun you had before, except now it's a little heavier and you're wearing out your upper and buffer tude with carrier tilt.
It’ll have to be the SKS then, as the only ammo I have for the K31 is FMJ as that’s most of what PPU makes and stores import.
>but you're not really increasing functionality or reliability by doing so
Except it would no longer shit where it eats.
PPU does make a correct 174gr SP, sgammo has a bunch.
>increased receiver wear, greater number of parts, higher weight, and lower parts interchangeability
>all for the sole benefit of feeling smug about a Fudd meme
>increased receiver wear
False: You are not pushing hot fucking gases on the bolt every shot, allowing the parts to stay cool for longer, which reduces wear.
>greater number of parts
False: For a long stroke gas operated gun all you need is the gas piston and the gas valve, and the gas tap in the barrel. A direct impingement system requires a gas tube, a gas valve and a gas tap. Same number of parts.
The only extra part a short stroke system needs is a single extra spring.
The amount of weight saved between a direct impingement system and a short stroke system is negligible. Maybe a hundred grams or whatever. That's nothing.
>lower parts interchangeability
False as well. Interchangeability depends a lot on tolerances, not on the system itself.
Instead of picking a real disadvantage of short/long stroke systems (like requiring a wider handguard and gas getting vented where the shooter holds the firearm), you made up completely false statements for no reason.
>False: You are not pushing hot fucking gases on the bolt every shot, allowing the parts to stay cool for longer, which reduces wear.
We're talking about AR conversions specifically, and AR conversions suffer from carrier tilt, which induces wear.
>False: For a long stroke gas operated gun all you need is the gas piston and the gas valve
We're not talking about a gun built from the ground up to be a piston gun, we're talking about an AR piston conversion. Learn reading comprehension.
>False as well. Interchangeability depends a lot on tolerances, not on the system itself.
Interchangeability with other ARs, Hans. Do you even read posts before you respond to them?
The fuck flag is this? I found it wrapped up in a commie flag in the pile of shit the cunt that married my sister left.
Since no one seems to have glock 31 slides, only 17, I bought an on-sale glock-17 slide. I have also bought a glock 35 "conversion" barrel to .357 SIG.
The barrel opening in the slide, just arrived, won't allow the barrel. Caliper shows it starts out at .010 inches too narrow, but the slightly-fluted barrel grows an extra .005 inches by the time it's back to where it would be during cycling.
I'm assuming I should focus all adjustments (filing off extra material) on the slide's barrel opening, and not try to thin down the barrel too? Or would it be better to sand both down until everything slides as expected?
French AT-52 my fellow strelo/k/
Looks like the Imperial Russian Standard. Surprising, if the guy was a commie.
The lesser coat of arms of Imperial Russia. Odd St.Georges lance has a cross on it.
Might have been souvenir shit. People are suckers for old combloc shit and stuff they have no clue what the fuck it is other than it looks neat.
cheers cunts. thats going on the wall.
I don't understand why somebody would use a carbine length gas system on a 14.5" barrel, as opposed to a mid-length gas system? Isn't the latter just better?
Same reason there's a button that does nothing 99.99999% of the time and turns minor malfunctions into catosrophic failures .00001% of the time. Government.
As >>626048 says, same reason they chose to switch to 14.5" at all, or why the front third of the barrel is thicker than the rest. Guns designed by committee are never pretty.
Because the first time "Carbine" length was used, it was used on guns with 10-12 inch barrels. Designers found it would work with 14.5 barrels, so they never changed it. It also didn't interfere with mounting of the M203.
Mid length is a later civilian development for 16 inch ARs that were beating themselves to death because that 1.5 inch of barrel made the system way overgassed.
You also saw things like pig tail gas tubes that lengthened the delay and lowered the pressure in the system.
>it's just fireworks
How do I make this stop?
Light your own off and enjoy yourself. I mean gunfire gets me going like I've inhaled several energy drinks.
I'm going to the biggest city in my state for thanksgiving to visit my in-laws and I got 1200 USD to spend on a gun (or guns). So far, I want to get a gun for each of these roles. I don't have to get them all at once, but what would you recommend?
>conceal carry pistol
Maybe Springfield XD?
>full sized pistol which can be used either to fend off animals in an emergency situation while hunting/hiking or penetrate most body armor
I was thinking of a higher caliber FN.
Prefer .270, but not sure what brand.
I have no idea what brand/model to get.
>conceal carry pistol
Any 9mm with acceptable reliability will do. There are some nice Sigs out there that aren't too expensive.
>>full sized pistol which can be used either to fend off animals in an emergency situation while hunting/hiking or penetrate most body armor
Get one for both roles. Chances are you don't want to carry around two pistols every day, and when you go hunting a good semi auto rifle will do everything just fine. If you need to put an animal down, use your 9mm.
I suggest 7.62x51, because it can deal with most stuff out there and is cheap. Also G3/FALs. Or get an AR in 7.62.
Depends. Do you want one for A E S T H E T I C S, for shooting shit for fun, for hunting birds or for hunting big and dangerous game?
For birds you may want a nice looking double barrel, aesthetics are up to you, but hunting dangerous game should be done with a good weapon. Don't get a Remington. Winchester Model 12s go for cheap and work well.
If you already have a good battle rifle you already have a good battle rifle. Sig has some nice 7.62 rifles, but they are far above your 1200$ limit. Did you really expect to get 5 guns for that little money?
Mossbergs have interchangeable barrels, you can go from blasting duck to 14" house clearing tacticool near immediately. They're sometimes sold with three barrels for 500 or so.
>Did you really expect to get 5 guns for that little money?
>I don't have to get them all at once, but what would you recommend?
Hover over the spoiler in >>625714 anon. Please answer the question.
I'm a nogunz faggot and I'm in the market to buy a BR and pistol. I have a pistol picked out (FNX-9) but need some input on the BR. I need something that can be used to hunt and be useful in a SHTF situation. A friend recommended I should get a PTR 91. Is this a good rifle? I have about a 1000 USD budget.
>I'm in the market to buy a BR and pistol
>something that can be used to hunt
Any BR will do the deer because .308
>be useful in a SHTF situation
Durability, ease of maintenance, parts availability, reliability, commonality of ammo, weight and combat capability
>Is this a good rifle?
Yes, it's a great battle rifle that would probably be the closest one to your budget, be more common, as accurate, at least as reliable, more durable and simple in maintenance as its another good competitor - FAL. Weight and accuracy is similar. You could probably get m14 but it sucks in comparison and costs similarly, though it's more common.
if you're noguns tho, .308 semi auto can be pretty hard to start with, so get a better recoil buffer, bigger pad and consider a machinegun(different angle) bolt, especially if you're running a suppressor - they all will help with recoil.
Also consider a scope for her, guys here can help you with those.
There's neither a spoiler nor a question there.
See >>626161 But realize a good FAL will run you a bit more, 1400-1600. PTRs are good, get some practice and fiddle with hunting ammo to find the right round for it. Find a good railed claw mount, find an okay scope or red dot, and you're good to go. Would be a decent, if heavy, 300 meter deer/pig gun. If you needed to bring down say an elk or similar, bring that distance in to 150 or closer.
Would really recommend a .22 lr to help you get fundamentals down and to diagnose if you're flinching. Dad taught me on belted magnums so I had a pretty bad flinch til I got my WASR and some practice with it.
Why do klocks spout off about how they'd start a gun fight when gun confiscation comes - and it will - rather than be honest that they'd bend over and take it hard?
Honest to god question.
You aren't Randy Weaver. You aren't the Bundies.
How do you guys feel about Slingshots?
I know guns are the end all be all of defense and all that, however a steel ball at deadly speeds is nothing to scoff at.
Durable, accurate, reasonably deadly, easily concealed, basically silent and ammo is literally everywhere. Not to mention really cheap. What do you guys think?
The keyword from the original question is build, anon.
I'm going to fuck you in the ass.
I dunno how lethal they are vs a person, but they sure are fuckin cheap. Id reccomend using tube rubber, its more durable than straps. Made this bad-boy from a broken spoke of the roll lines on the family farm. Gave it a long handle for a removable arm brace that mounts under the hand.
Bend over and take your pants off, fuckboi.
In which case you highlighted the wrong post. And I believe I did try to answer that question in >>625695
is there any way for me to legally import flipper knives into canada without having an FBL? like some company that will import specific twosun knives for me. i cant find anyone offering this as a service
I faintly recall reading a post a very long time ago, that basically said that tourniquets used in the military are essentially useless and ineffective. Can anyone tell me if there was any truth to that post or not?
Does anyone have a working copy of "The Fundamental Kalashnikov DVD by Gabriel Suarez.mp4" from Murdercube? I downloaded a copy from the Murdercube mirror over at The-Eye [https://the-eye.eu/public/murdercube.com/] but it doesn't work. Something about there being no playable streams.
Have you considered driving down to the states, picking up a flipper, and driving back up? From the very brief reading I did on CA laws, it seems like it's not illegal to own flippers, Customs just spazzes out when you try to import becasue they've interpreted the law to say that any flipper knife is an automatic.
My copy of the Ark torrent seems to have a working copy of that video, unfortunately am torrent small brain and not sure how to give you a magnet link for a torrent I've already downloaded. Will ask /tech/ and get back to you.
My advice to you would be "don't," unless you're a trained gunsmith or machinist. But if you insist on bubbaing the gung yourself you're likely better off modifying the slide instead of the barrel.
Well until /tech/ answers have a MEGA upload.
Wrong link, excuse me.
What was the name of that Japanese series about guns with really relaxing music over them?
I forgot the name, jewtube is down and I even had its code to it at some point but it's lost now.
Another question then, if It does turn out to be that the barrel is fucked what other calibers would I be able to use with the bolt. I could always try to find a spare barrel that shoots 7.65 agrie, but it may be even more beneficial on my wallet if find a barrel that the bolt will be able to chamber more popular calibers. First is to find out where I can order 1 round of argie online.
You can get boxes of it off of sgammo for 15 or so. Honestly the gun itself should be fine, the lugs on the bolt and those in the receiver are probably clean as fuck. Are you sure it was rust and not globs of cosmoline?
Those new overly tacticool srbosjeks look uncomfortable as hell.
What's that? some sort ot an alien weapon?
It was rust. The same rust I uncaked the rear sight elevator of though the chamber was clear I thought it was safer to check the head space anyways since there was rust down the barrel rifling when I bought it. I'm not old nor wise enough for an eye patch yet.
The ar-15 gimmick industry has gone too far, all you should need is, at most, a $200 match trigger, anything past this and you should be shot.
Just get palmetto PA-10 rifle and a decent optic with the money you saved.
There is literally no reason to buy anything other than AR-pattern rifles, prove me wrong.
i cant even do that because bringing them over the border is the illegal part orz
>Where the fuck can I find and buy old or obscure camo patterns?
Why would you want to? M81 and tri color desert cover literally every environment on earth. Just get some good 'ol BDU's you goddamn unamerican weirdo.
I've got two of their cheap model. No complaints. No idea if it's any better than their cheap model though.
Odd, usually speaking those guns were absolutely mint minus being caked in grease when surplus'd out. Anyway a set of go no-go gauges retail around $70 for the bundle if you aren't ready to do a 2x4-shoestring contraption on a bench of your choice.
>telling the most incompetent border dicks that you've got fun
>i cant even do that because bringing them over the border is the illegal part orz
If that's the case then me and several friends have repeatedly broken the law by bringing folding knives into leafland for camping.
I tried to google it, but couldn't find any archives of the earlier Soldier of Fortune issues. Does anyone have them?
>reason not to buy a ar pattern rifle
You really want to shoot .357 magnum or 45-70 gov.
Invidious embed. Click thumbnail to play.
For .357 mag just get a revolver.
Then what are the cons for a built-from-the-top piston AR, and not one cobbled together?
Is a 12 gauge slug adequate for home defense?
How does a 12 gauge slug react to a type 3-4 vest in close range?
No shotguns in the happening.
What is the best ammo for type IV armor?
>Is a 12 gauge slug adequate for home defense?
If anything it's overkill, the slug will overpenetrate sheetrock, and produce a lot of recoil and concussion. None of these things are good for home defense, you'd be better off with an AR-15, or some other rifle in .223.
>How does a 12 gauge slug react to a type 3-4 vest in close range?
A slug won't penetrate any body armor as far as i know, but depending on the armor you have (steel, soft, or ceramic) and whether you have a trauma plate, you could expect bruising at best, and broken bones and internal bleeding at worst.
Possible parts incompatibilities, especially if you're building a frankenstein AR with 20 different manufacturers parts on in. Just because the parts fit together doesn't mean they'll work together.
If you don't cheap out on the important bits (The piston system, barrel, and BCG) you'll probably be fine I guess.
M2 AP .30-06 and above.
The seller I bought it from told me he got it in a trade some time ago, so by the time I got it it had probably seen some care as the holes to mount the front bayonet band are filled in and it's missing a handguard, so it was probably going to get bubba'd, thankfully it hadn't been before he got it.
>you'd be better off with an AR-15, or some other rifle in .223.
Isn't .223 just a supped up 22 lr. Wouldn't you just be better off with a 00 buck?
>A slug won't penetrate any body armor as far as i know.
So just use .30-06?
Just so we're on the same page, you mean something like the HK416, or an Adams Arms upper? In that case, it'll depend on the manufacturer. Many of them will still have carrier tilt issues, as carrier tilt is an issue inherent to converting the AR operating system to a piston–because the piston's force is being applied to the top of the carrier only, instead of uniformly, there's a net torque on the BCG, which causes it to grind gouges into the receiver and buffer tube. I believe some of the higher-end models try to mitigate this with putting the BCG on fixed rails, but the issue doesn't go away entirely. If you want a piston gun, you're better off getting a rifle that was built from the ground up to use an external piston instead of finding an AR conversion. AR uppers that are a completely new system instead of a modified AR upper, like the Faxon ARAK, wouldn't have carrier tilt either
Invidious embed. Click thumbnail to play.
>Isn't .223 just a supped up 22 lr.
Someone as ignorant as yourself should refrain from asking such questions, google is your friend.
>Wouldn't you just be better off with a 00 buck?
Did you not read my post? .223/5.56 is pretty good at armor penetration, but won't overpenetrate your walls, it will give you quick follow up shots in the likely event a mental invalid such as yourself misses. (Hot tip: Buckshot and slugs are just as easy to miss with at close range as bullets)
>So just use .30-06?
Are you talking about home defense? Who is going to be breaking into your house with level IV armor?
Invidious embed. Click thumbnail to play.
Here is a more realistic test of 5.56 out of a 16 inch barrel, something much more common.
>Someone as ignorant as yourself should refrain from asking such questions, google is your friend.
.223 is a 22 caliber round. It sucks at expanding at barrel lengths less than 10 which is disadvantageous for situations like home invasions. Also it is a big debate that .223 might not be lethal enough for combat. There are plenty of stories of people living through a .223. People living through 00 buck are a lot rarer especially in the close quarters of a home
There is a reason SOCOM wants a .300 blk for CQC.
>Are you talking about home defense?
not for the ap.
>Did you not read my post? .223/5.56 is pretty good at armor penetration
yea, but you really don't need that unless swat is kicking down your door.
>but won't overpenetrate your walls
You literally posted a video of a dude shooting through level III body armor, that would definitely go through walls no questions asked. But yea, .223 hollow point probably wouldn't, however neither would a 00 buck which are shot are lower speeds and are much larger.
I would argue that an ar-15 in .223 definitely isn't the best chose for a home defense. For the typical unarmored thug invader, you would be a lot better off with a 12 gauge or a thicker round like a .45, 10mm, or maybe even a 7.62x39.
Jesus christ lad, you aren't even worth responding to. Why don't you go do some research you ignorant oaf, and stop spacing your posts like that.
It's a cuckchanner.
Any good AR lower assembly videos? Haven't done this in a while and Youtube killed them all.
Note: this doesn't show how to do the receiver extension/buffer tube. Also the order of some things is questionable. It doesn't matter when you install the forward takedown pin, the mag release, or the bolt catch. But its kinda dumb to install the trigger group and fire selector and then wait to put in the detent and pistol grip. You'll have a loose fire selector until you do.
I'll give you some cliffnotes for stock:
You'll want to screw in the receiver extension until it captures the buffer detent, making sure the backplate lines up(if applicable) and the takedown detent spring isn't fucked up. If you're going for an adjustable stock, you'll torque down the castle nut (35ish ft lbs) afterwards. Also, stake the castle nut by using a center punch or the like and swagging in some of the backplate's material into the cutouts on the castle nut. It only needs to be done on one grove.
Fixed stocks are much less annoying, though don't let that deter you from adjustable stocks. For fixed stocks, after the receiver extension is in place, its usually as simple as sliding on a stock and putting in a screw that goes through the stock and extension.
I hope this helps, anon
To add to this, when you're installing the trigger guard, absolutely put a piece of wood or something in between the "ears" where the roll pin goes in, otherwise you'll end up snapping one off. Better yet, just get a lower that already has a full trigger guard as a part of the forging and skip the process entirely. The Aero Precision M4E1 is a pretty cheap example of this; you also get a screw-in bolt catch pin, and a threaded takedown pin detent hole, so that you can secure the detent spring with a set screw instead of fiddling with the endplate and possibly launching springs across the room.
i was looking to purchase stripper clips for a 1916 spanish mauser chambered in .308. Can anyone recommend me some cheapo ones?
Its like you don't know the magic of 75gr go fuck everything inside your target.
You're Texan, not leaf, yes? Any experience with the Frontier ammo that's loaded with the 75gr T2 bullet?
That's a different show. Still very good tho. Key difference is Combat Missions started with like 4 teams and had a bunch of team-based challenges up until the last episode; this shit I'm looking for had a single PJ throughout the series up against 4+ dudes for the entirety of the show.
Redpill request: how paranoid should I be about posting in 8ch /k/ ? Should I only post when using TOR or a VPN from somewhere other than home? Or should I just say fuck it and post like on any other site?
You're already on a list anyway.
The level of security provided by TOR isn't going to stop alphabet soup–your IP is one of only a couple dozen and isn't so hard to sniff out for anyone who's dedicated to finding you. Chances are you're already on a list anyways, so why bother with going through the trouble?
It's fucking /k/. Just don't talk about McVeighing a Fed building and you'll be fine.
>Tor has only a few dozen users
Are you stuck in 2002?
If you know what you are doing and do not spill personal info even the fucking NSA can't do shit against Tor. There is not a single documented case where ordinary users with proper opsec were caught. If you use it on windows with js enabled you are beyond help anyway.
In the US probably.
In most of Western Europe simply being associated with people who are interested in paramilitary training and forming militias is likely the end of your career as a gun owner. If LEA by any chance finds /k/ related stuff on your devices you will have your guns Red-Flagged for good. Governments are scared as fuck of organized and trained civilians under arms. Germany already ruled that people even weaky associated with the Reichsbürger-movement or sililar are to immediately lose their gun license or will never have one issued.
I didn't say it had a few dozen users. I was under the impression that your IP doesn't become synonymous with every TOR user that happens to be online though, but only becomes mixed with a relatively small number of peers.
I mean, if im not already on asios shitlist, they aren't doing their job properly.
You're already being watched by your government, and if they were really interested in what you're doing, TOR or a VPN wouldn't stop them. The secret is not posting anything incriminating.