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/k/ - Weapons

Salt raifus and raifu accessories
Winner of the 80rd Attention-Hungry Games
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There's no discharge in the war!

File: 5000f10005f23d7⋯.jpg (296.56 KB, 3456x2304, 3:2, 7f048c61d9229e51ce950839e5….jpg)

c218a6  No.586407

A hub for people with a taste for knives.

Will answer questions and give insight on knives, since I've been collecting for a long time , using knives in the outdoors and practicing knife-related martial arts.

Will not bother with the retarded sub-types and mall ninjas and teens like those found on cuckchan.

c218a6  No.586409

File: a34d87a53f1dafc⋯.jpg (125.92 KB, 768x576, 4:3, wwII_hunter_es.jpg)

I specialize in military / survival / "tactical" fixed blade knives, but anything goes. I've had many different knives from many different brands, and have a wide experience with knife media. My oppinions are based on my experience and differ from what JewTube tries to market you.

The only knives I'm not interested in are the african nigger abominations, and the only information I'm not sharing is where to find special knives at special prices. However I'm a regular person, if I found the places you can find them as well.

291319  No.586439


Is there any type of knife you believe is best suited inside a first aid kit?

6325c1  No.586461

Alright I got one for you. I do tree removal and climb trees via ropes often. I want a good fully serrated knife between 3 and 4 inches long edge (bit longer may be acceptable) with a good sheath that I can strap to my harness. Obviously a fixed blade that can cut rope quickly in case I fuck up and need to drop something. Got a really cheap Condor high carbon straight edge that I've put a razor edge on to do the job now but I would like something that will reliably saw through rope under tension or not.

Any suggestions?

Also bright colors are acceptable.

84c0ee  No.586488


> the only information I'm not sharing is where to find special knives at special prices

you are such a fucking braggart. i couldnt give less of a shit about how much of a knife autist you are.

d7d297  No.586491

Would there be any advantage to an Anglo-Saxon seax style blade on a bayonet/general purpose military knife? I ask because the Bowie knife has a broadly similar shape so I wonder if there is any utility there.

3b7ee9  No.586508

File: 458bcd423d4be59⋯.jpeg (2.41 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, 35958709-AEB9-45C7-80CE-B….jpeg)

My favorite. ZT 0350

c218a6  No.586509

File: e3079bfe76eb59d⋯.jpg (243.28 KB, 1024x768, 4:3, aquasalt_spyderco.jpg)

File: 9e397a18f462c68⋯.jpg (59.51 KB, 1000x667, 1000:667, rope01-1000x667.jpg)


If I wanted to make absolutely sure that in the rare eventuality that I'd need to cut rope that rope should be cut yes or yes I'd go for a serrated Spyderco Aqua Salt with a yellow handle. Jumpaster and Jumpmaster 2 are also options, but they're heavier and more expensive. The Aqua Salt is the better tool / work knife.

If you dont want to spend a lot and just want the knife for emergencies, then a plain edge Morakniv will cut as well, in carbon preferably, and there's also a rope cutting version.

For canyons and climbing I carry a Spyderhawk, which is a hawkbill folder, and I'm a collector and on the spectrum, so Spydercos are more valued by me. However the Morakniv is the affordable common sense choice.

Both are great utilitarian tool knives, and both will grow on you if you like knives.

c218a6  No.586512

File: bb60787c705e45b⋯.jpg (16.01 KB, 466x399, 466:399, 61Ubayv O2L._SX466_.jpg)


If something public and static nothing or the cheapest crap. Maybe just razors.

If it's your personal first aid kit I wouldnt include a knife insiide, or maybe a Havalon folder with extra scalpel replacements.


Stabs better than something round I guess. Many knife styles are due to culture and related to time and geographic region, without any objectively superior or inferior qualities that can be measured in a scale of "progress" so to speak.

A bowie will slice better because of the curve, I guess, and maybe chop better. A seax is straight, but for the use a knife should have it's ok.

6325c1  No.586529


I'll take a look at the Spyderco, already have an Endura Wave that I love so I'm pretty sure the Aqua Salt will do nicely. Thank you buddy.

de537b  No.586686

Is there a more rugged folder then the Emerson Folders?

4ca974  No.586718

Buy chinese flippers with D2 steel. If you go for made by TwoSun for like $50 you will get knives superior to any production knife you can buy from western manufacturers. If you go for the ones selling for $20 or so they're still pretty quality but you might have problems with the axle screw dunno the actual term for it backing off from the repeated action of opening the knife.

all imo tbh but the knives I've bought from SpyderCo, Benchmade, CRKT and the like, even for upwards of $200 are pretty much either of the same level of quality or alot worse quality than what I've gotten with quality chink knives. SpyderCo especially I've found to be junk more often than not. Their back-lock mechanism is always shakey which is ridiculous because mechanically it should give the blade a very firm lockup; I think it's from poor manufacturing.

6ba39d  No.586752


Plenty. Emersons are neither tough not rugged.

The Emerson lock is laughably weak and bad, the steel was ok in the 1990s. Of Emerson I only like the designs. The build is total shit and so are the prices.


I'm mostly a collector, I dont give a shit for chinkshit or high tech low drag folders, but Two Sun is interesting.

Spyderco has many clones, and all my spydercos have solid locks and no play whatsoever. Maybe you got a clone, a bad one, or dindnt adjust the pivot screw properly.

As for the prices, it has to do with YouTube and forums raising demand for knives. The bubble will soon burst and many makers will fuck off forever.

fa80ce  No.586791

File: c8b9e098efa22ca⋯.jpg (82.94 KB, 1155x1155, 1:1, download.jpg)

What kind of knife can I carry and not get into trouble if I get searched? I was thinking about something like pic related but perhaps you lads got some better ideas.

ab2857  No.586793


Depending on country or state, the razor would be out of the question. I get away with carrying knives most of the time because i say they are for work. Granted, they are, as an electrician has to skin wire.

de537b  No.586834


so what do u recommend as a tough rugged folder?

c218a6  No.586875

File: 6591fedeb7dad1d⋯.jpg (200.88 KB, 1920x1080, 16:9, maxresdefault.jpg)

6325c1  No.586905


I carry an east German AK-74 bayonet for stump/root clean up. Can't get away with carrying that without odd looks unless I forget to take off my saw chaps (which has happened numerous times).

2b76b2  No.586915

File: 72098c22011cc39⋯.jpg (14.56 KB, 425x425, 1:1, 41CFfarmSOL._SX425_.jpg)

File: 41571db61b19078⋯.jpg (159.08 KB, 800x531, 800:531, DSC_05351.JPG)


Cold Steel's folders

look at how deep that lockbar reaches into the blade tang

I like the American Lawman

e9cf6f  No.587356

File: e04610d8b4337b5⋯.png (211.23 KB, 1500x268, 375:67, ClipboardImage.png)

I was checking out a few knife under 50 bucks… I was considering to get either a Glock 78 or a S&W "Search and Rescue" Tanto, both around $45.

Is there anything worth more for the same price?

4f3d9b  No.587477

File: 1d5e831180c8c5b⋯.jpg (77.69 KB, 1050x672, 25:16, 4b7801a3f98ef1b5abb7c3dc6a….jpg)


For what exactly? I'd say Mora 2000. It's good for lots of things, you can cut kielbasa, you can cut wood, you can cut just about anything. Not good for batoning, but it's for fags anyway.

a53cfb  No.587691


>no sebenza

2560e7  No.587704


That list isn't very complete.

2560e7  No.587770

File: 4a4f5de6da0cc4c⋯.png (1.01 MB, 2500x2500, 1:1, ClipboardImage.png)

Look at this shit. You see how the unlocking lever is a stud on the side of the grip, instead of a lever on the inside of the blade recess? Why don't more knife companies make their folders like this? It's much faster than those frame lock bars you get on most folders, and unlike those you don't have to put your fingers across the knife's arc of travel to unlock it. It's not more expensive; picrelated costs 40 shekels and I've seen it go for less. It's an objectively superior system, yet most folders don't use it and I can't imagine why.

878da0  No.587790

File: b7908055aff66cb⋯.jpg (312.79 KB, 1024x995, 1024:995, Le_Fantasque_(Croiseur_lég….jpg)


last i checked this one is ridiculusly overpriced compared to alternatives that mora has, some of which are even better like that one with 3mm wide blade, you can chop rocks with it

t.has 2 moras

also i dont recommend opinel. is meme shit honestly and only reason why you would get one i can imagine is your pride of being french or something

35df4a  No.587793

I won't even ask if "tanto" point is a meme, because it was invented by fucking Cold Steel. But does it work?

577cf7  No.587796


>does it work

Depends on what you're trying to do.

Stab straight through some thick barrier? Yup.

577cf7  No.587801


Cold Steels folding knives are very good these days.

527c4b  No.587815


That's the "American Tanto" shape. Yes, it works because sharpened prybars dont cut well anyways. However it is a lie that the tip is stronger. It can be in fact weaker due to the more acute angle.

35df4a  No.587816

HookTube embed. Click on thumbnail to play.


So then, what happens if you add sawteeth to the back of it? Will you get a knife that is excellent at stabbing through aramit, can be used to pry open things, has a pommel that can be used as a hammer, and also function as a saw?


I'll be honest, I'm not familiar with their products, all I know is that they are kind of over-the-top when it comes to advertising.

527c4b  No.587818


Framelocks are simpler, backlocks easier to clean.

That's Benchmade's approach as well and it's more prone to failure due to rust or dirt. That's why.

527c4b  No.587819


The knife spectrum is so wide it is pointless for me to say yes or no or to recommend one random knife that is good, you need to be more specific.

Glock knives are shit and are bought by armies in the 4-12$ range. They are too thick to cut and too narrow to chop. They dont do anything well. Handle isnt grippy, point is blunt or broken from the factory. Angle is like 30 degrees + per side, etc…..

S&W is chinashit. Don't buy knives from gun brands, save for the higher end ones like Wilson Combat that have agreements with high tier brands.

2b76b2  No.587882


they have the most secure lock in the industry, the "Tri-ad."

they use modern high-carbide steels now, so the edge retention is great

they use solid g-10, so the knives are relatively light but very strong

midwayusa runs good deals on their knives from time to time


323c90  No.587957

Anyone have any good recommendations for a loaner knife? Something cheap that I won't mind letting other people use.


I got an Opinel as a gift. Is it really that bad?

One thing I noticed is generally lukewarm reactions when I pull it out, whereas when I pull out a black tactical-looking CRKT people either go "HO SHIT HE'S GOT A KNOIFE" or "HO SHIT THAT'S A SWEET KNOIFE".

53cfb0  No.587984

File: ffa3f70a144b546⋯.jpg (3.48 MB, 4107x2516, 111:68, blk.jpg)

File: bdd5b2f472447d9⋯.jpg (93.62 KB, 1000x750, 4:3, blue.jpg)

File: aca162b55c5db26⋯.jpg (688.49 KB, 1280x1280, 1:1, rainbow.jpg)

What's the general consensus about titanium alloys for swords?

Straight-up titanium would be too soft, like how aluminum is. But we make gun parts out of 7075, which is aluminum with a bunch of stuff added. Or meld multiple metals in layers, like the famed japanese katana.

As a neat extra feature, titanium is moderately easy to anodize into a variety of bright and interesting colors, and is slightly (a lot?) more resistant to rusting if you leave blood on it overnight.

I'm not hoping to go full Blade, or recreate the four foot long nodachi. Just something about three and a half feet total, full handle tang hand-and-a-half handled slashing+stabbing tool, like the "ninja" swords.

4ca974  No.587986


opinels are pretty good and that lukewarm reaction to you deploying one is one of the reasons why. its completely inoffensive so you wont have any trouble with people for using it. their carbon steel is very easy to sharpen and can take a very good edge. it wont stay that sharp for long though, both because of the properties of the steel and the fact that the edge is interfacing with the wooden handle when closed. also if you have a chance to pick between a few different ones, try to ensure that you get one with a straight blade–the blades being bent is a fairly common issue with them

323c90  No.588004

HookTube embed. Click on thumbnail to play.


There's a nickel/titanium alloy called SM-100 that for a time was a popular "super metal" used to make blades, but I haven't seen anything about it recently. When properly heat treated it's about as hard as 440C stainless steel but is lighter and has the corrosion resistance of titanium. NASA did some tests on it's cousin material, Nitinol 60, and found that it makes for a great ball bearing. Does that mean it makes for a great blade? Tests I could find online have been mixed.

Nitinol 60 is notoriously difficult to manufacture, but SM-100 is supposed to have fixed that problem. Only one company makes SM-100 and they always make it in small batches, so you can just take a guess at the cost and how difficult it is to get your hands on it.

I've heard promising things about carbonized titanium, but I don't know much about it.

Like you said pure titanium is no good for a blade due to it's softness, but it's also not very good for slashing weapons because it's too light. When you're cutting something you want weight. Executioner's swords would have no distal taper to give added weight and make it easier to cut off a disgraced nobles head.

Vid related is some people who did go full Blade and made a sword with a 100% titanium blade. Probably some useful information if you are making a titanium sword.

527c4b  No.588006

Well, the thread went to shit sooner than expected.

So long, mallninja faggots

e9cf6f  No.588017


The thread went to shitters since the begging, with your reddit-spaced OP and nigger behavior.



>Will not bother with the retarded sub-types and mall ninjas and teens like those found on cuckchan.

>I'm not sharing is where to find special knives at special prices

527c4b  No.588018


And i was right, since all you did is ask generic nigger questions and mallninja bullshit like the cheap ignorant plebs you are.

2560e7  No.588019


Are there any preferred non-tacticool finishes/surface treatments to put on knives? My BK7 came with a black oxide finish and I'm of the understanding that's not very durable.

527c4b  No.588022

This is not a democratic thread nor I consider plebs and no - taste niggers as equals. Im here for those knife ethusiasts with questions or cravings for knowledge that i can answer as a collector and enthusiast myself. The only reply to generic reddit tier nigger questions or mallninja shit is belittlement at best or just a lack of reply.

527c4b  No.588023

File: 8be4f232fae9344⋯.jpg (216.49 KB, 800x600, 4:3, cerakote.jpg)

File: f14db077ec93dd5⋯.jpg (116.19 KB, 1000x1000, 1:1, Gunkote.jpg)

File: cb8f7ac67b538fc⋯.jpg (1.28 MB, 1146x860, 573:430, Zippo coating.jpg)

File: 15ac368c8414055⋯.jpg (507.82 KB, 640x480, 4:3, edgematters.uk.jpg)


Depends on what you mean by tacticool and what you want a coating for (or lack thereof)

Assuming what you seek is rust protection, I would divide them into the good coatings and the good non-coated finishes.

Gunkote (KG coating) is the absolute best coating for knives. Durable and thin. Chris Reeve knives, Winkler Knives, Spartan Blades, etc… are examples. It's a produc that's sprayed on and baked into the surface, popular with guns as well. The downside is that it may not be food safe.

The best non-coated finish for a carbon knife like the becker is mirror polish. The knife will slice better, be fairly protected from rust, and it won't smell (because some carbon steels smell like absolute shit).

Cerakote is shit, feels like wax or a crayon and wears out quick, staining everythin it touches. Fälkniven, Cold Steel are examples. It's popuar because it's easy to apply at home.

Sandpaper coating, like the one in ESEE knives, Beckers and BUSSE, the worst offender, is dogshit as well. It wears out ok, but it's like having sandpaper glued to the blade, and food and residue can be difficult to clean. BUSSE uses the same motherfucking coating as those "crackle finish" Zippo lighters.

I also dont recommend stonewashing carbon blades and forcing a patina if you want to touch food with it. It smells like shit and will make your food taste like rusty metal. The worst offender is Winkler Knives with their Caswell finish.

What you can realistically do and I recommend is use your knife with the coating, when it wears out, oil it, from time to time with food safe oils. If you want to get the coating off, strip it with a food safe compound or just sand it, then use MetalGlo to buff it to attain a polished finish.

2560e7  No.588027


>I also dont recommend stonewashing carbon blades and forcing a patina if you want to touch food with it. It smells like shit and will make your food taste like rusty metal. The worst offender is Winkler Knives with their Caswell finish.

Would gun-bluing the steel be bad for the same reason? It's also an oxidation process, but it doesn't form a "natural" patina.

2560e7  No.588029


To clarify, I mean "hot" bluing, not a DIY backyard cold blue.

527c4b  No.588037

a86825  No.588039


Thanks fam, but I know how to Google. These forums only talk about "cold" bluing, which I know is far from ideal. I was asking about "hot" bluing, the shit done with boiling tanks of salts by professional gunmakers.

527c4b  No.588060


As someone comments on the forum, hot bluing would be much better, but look if the heat treatment is not damaged by the high temperatures. Probably not.

Bluing is toxic though, dont eat food with it.

3675b6  No.588062


>Bluing is toxic though

What about cerakote? Either the c-series (air cure) or h-series (oven cure, but only about 300f)

527c4b  No.588064

File: cc1b2259d55c878⋯.jpg (66.4 KB, 1280x720, 16:9, gk.jpg)


To make absolutely sure, I'd lurk in the Cliff Stamp forums, which are the best online source of actual knife related info.

Cerakote is toxic as well, as for how much more or what kind of toxicity, I dont know. I know though that cerakote will stain hard bread, cheese, and other hard foods, and that's what you eat.

For a coating I'd go for Gunkote, which is apparently food safe, and it's honestly the hardest wearing, thinnest and smoothest coating.


73df73  No.588065

6291e9  No.588066


good riddance, fuck face

2560e7  No.588096


>Bluing is toxic though, don't eat food with it.

Some of what I've read indicates it's okay as long as you dry it properly afterwards and take a few other precautionary steps, but I'll be careful all the same. Gunkote does seem like the better option but I really like how bluing looks, so I'll likely go with that.

f084bc  No.588108


>thread about knives

>not a single combat knife

2b76b2  No.588117


>Cliff Stamp

ironic, as Cliff Stamp views Cold Steel favorably

dumb kike

dd7334  No.588535

File: b861e77fdf2db50⋯.jpeg (70.41 KB, 1200x1200, 1:1, ontariobuschcraft.jpeg)


if this is a high grade high carbon steel, you're looking at the best knife in this thread.

simple, non-coated fixed blades with a 90 degree backside and no serrations are going to be the best knives.

look for knives that are full tang, and not stainless steel, but I grade above that.

A heavy, long, balanced, bowie-style knife will be the best for any situation in the woods are a knife fight scenario

dd7334  No.588536


ontario knife and other american knife companies that only sell to select redistribution outlets will give you the best steel, although will run you up price.

pound for pound, dollar for dollar, you can almost never go wrong on a decent investment on a knife.

a cheap 1$ knife will stay in your loadout, true, but a high carbon knife that holds an edge will stay razor sharp and strong over years of abuse.

2b76b2  No.588630

File: 9b53d2817cd3139⋯.jpg (38.5 KB, 700x354, 350:177, img-esee-junglas-15.jpg)


ontario is pretty shit tbh


2560e7  No.588670


Why not Becker?

349168  No.588681

File: 658b646c91ac181⋯.jpg (43.59 KB, 1200x900, 4:3, vxhy7m.jpg)


ESEE is pretty shit tbh


0c50d3  No.588690

File: 963e01e888b6788⋯.png (718.59 KB, 1360x1361, 1360:1361, ClipboardImage.png)

Check out this cheap piece of shit that only cost me 37 dollaridoos.

Feels nice in the hand, and the steel is something called 7Cr17MOV steel. It's sharp and has taken quite a beating without failure so far. It's far bigger than it looks in the picture.

e9cf6f  No.588692


>For what exactly?

I needed a general purpose knife, and ended up getting the Glock 78.

What I do not understand is why it could cost 45 bucks in Evropa, while being only 30 in the US, despite being produced in Austria.

4ca974  No.588695


>pecker ever

gay tbh



you could've bought a decent knife for $37 though

044ce3  No.588723

File: 1fbc8882f181847⋯.jpg (40.61 KB, 400x450, 8:9, boker-urban-trapper-cocobo….jpg)

For the gentlemen.

0c50d3  No.588770

File: 242382ae759203f⋯.png (671.69 KB, 938x496, 469:248, sylvi.png)


>le high income high tax face

2b76b2  No.588791


good but overpriced


or ka-bar becker knives, good value in those

fb0e48  No.589217

Thanks. I bought this once some years back and it's never really had a role. I prefer a shorter knife (BRKT Bravo 2 size) for camping/bushcraft/survival, folders for general utility, and dedicated hunting knives for hunting. My mil days are long behind me, but back then I had a Kabar. I think I bought this knife because of its similarity in size to a Kabar.

But as I said, it's never really had a role. Primarily because I don't know enough about knife design principles to understand what this knife's designer intended it for. Given OP's knife experience, what's this one for?

45baf1  No.589221


Think you're missing a pic there.

fb0e48  No.589229

File: 743ae6fbd53fab5⋯.jpg (3.09 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, 20180628_144110.jpg)


Yes I'm having some phoneposting difficulties. I will try from home tonight.

fb0e48  No.589237


And now it freaking works.

Anyway the knife is a Swamp Rat Ratmandeux LE.

2560e7  No.589276


That's a good-looking blade. What's the hardware that's holding your grips to the tang, rivets? Was going to replace the bolts on my BK7 with stainless ones, but if I could I'd replace them with a setup like yours.

349168  No.589336

File: 343b970f05c67c3⋯.jpg (2.6 MB, 4608x3456, 4:3, IMG_2505.JPG)



That one is for fun or military, in a position that uses knives often for various chores including non-cutting chores and isnt very mobile.

When I'm on expeditions and travels as a client, not as an organizer, I like to take one such knife with me (stout, thick, "excessive"). It has come handy many times. This BUSSE saved me and my companions when the guide didnt even have a folding knife with him and nobody carried an axe. It spit the logs to make fire at night.

I also prefer knives in the 4-5.5 inch range, six if it's light, so in my oppinion It's an emergency do-it-all knife, take it when you go outdoors for extended periods of time and dont trust the people your're travelling with in regards of gear and inventory organization. You know your knife is not going to fail and that's a very motivating thing.

9590a3  No.589345

How are ceramic knives? They make folding ceramic knives apparently.

2d0556  No.589550

File: 1b8f72889d93d33⋯.jpg (988.61 KB, 1683x2992, 9:16, DSC_0175-1683x2992.JPG)

These are my usual edc.

3ee2da  No.589576

File: 3aafef27b8a7c9f⋯.jpg (63.31 KB, 560x800, 7:10, busey.jpg)




pic related every time

2b76b2  No.589578


>cold steel




fb0e48  No.590034


Yes, they are rivets.

ac1d27  No.590042


That's a big knife

How do you carry that?

2d0556  No.590078


Stock sheath attached to belt and paracord to anchor it across the leg.

2560e7  No.590329

File: 831269ada66c769⋯.png (243.86 KB, 1200x857, 1200:857, ClipboardImage.png)

So Geissele makes knives, apparently, under the moniker (((Abraham and Moses))), with a price tag to match. Steel is Carpenter PD1, not really sure how that compares in practical terms to 1095 in a knife blade.

a2ad71  No.590451


MMMmmmmhhhh. I have the Titanium skeletonised handle version and I have to say the flipper is satisfying as fuck, every time.

a2ad71  No.590452


Good for food preparation and not much else I'd say. I'd always be worried about the blade just breaking on me.

a2ad71  No.590454

File: db1d2b2af270be0⋯.jpg (31.78 KB, 500x500, 1:1, ontario_knife_company_499_….jpg)

Anyway I got one of these like 2 years ago, had to sharpen it out of the box, but I still hate it. The leather handle is still dry and nasty even after like, 8 coats of dubbin and the blade scratched the [also very dry] sheath. Should I try and sell it and get a ka-bar? The ka-bars look so much sexier and in general just higher quality.

349168  No.590505

File: cbcf238a9729407⋯.jpg (202.27 KB, 1024x764, 256:191, img_9254.jpg)

File: 14e907989afee2e⋯.jpg (253.41 KB, 1067x1185, 1067:1185, img_9403.jpg)

File: 6e6afde0315322d⋯.jpg (48.85 KB, 1080x720, 3:2, img_2397.jpg)


Knife looks promising and is already on my list but I dont care for the sheath, which doubles the price. A simple, quality kydex or aftermarket sheath would have sufficed. I think the way the sheath works and the aluminium are retarded choices. It also looks heavy for what it is. Too much handle mass / blade ratio.

As for Abraham and Moses, It sounds cool, like something out of a Metal Gear game, and Geissele has a great reputationand Geissele has a great reputation, but I dont care for the "holier than thou" attitude these "operator" tacticlol products have. I have three winklers and they're shit for the price. The operator meme is a shit scam.

As for the rape prices, I'd wait to see if they change the sheath and the price goes down, and if they succeed they may mass produce or make the knife again, which will devalue the prices.

The tacticlol business will burst sooner than later anyways, I think they're late to the party.

Never ever feel bad if you ever miss that special bit of kit you wanted. It's not so special. If you look at their other knife it's standard as fuck.

2560e7  No.590527

File: f0f4c7bbb47d356⋯.webm (628.95 KB, 632x718, 316:359, Who Can It Be Now.webm)


>As for Abraham and Moses, It sounds cool

b4b377  No.590591



I'm looking for a pocket knife, most of the shit I got is $10/30 lowe's/supermarket-tier junk and I want something more robust, something with a good feel. As for style, as long as I can avoid looking like a gigantic edgelord when I use it, I have zero cares.

budget is ideally up to $60 but if it's any more expensive, tell me your experience with it and why someone who usually uses it as a box cutter should buy it.



That's interesting, everyone I've ever shown my opinel thought it was a sweet knife.

Speaking of opinels, how do I take one apart and put it back together? my carbon opinel's got some rust on the metal that attaches to the lever, the idea of it rusting inside there is making my autism flare.

2560e7  No.590596


It sounds like you're talking about a single-bladed folder rather than a full on multitool so I'll go with my recommendation on that: SOG Flash II, with a straight (non-serrated) blade. I like it because, for only 40 shekels or so, you get a nice grip, a decently hard blade that holds an edge reasonably well, and all the features that I think are "necessary" on an EDC folder. Specifically, those are

-thumb stud for tacticool one-handed opening

-spring assist for tacticool high speed opening

-unlocking lever is on the handle, not inside the pocket where the blade goes (I have autistic paranoia about closing a blade on my thumb)

-a pocket clip

There's also a "safety" control that keeps the blade from opening, but I've never seen a need to use it, maybe you will. There are better knives out there with this featureset, but they're also a good deal more expensive.

ac1d27  No.590598

File: 2d0d884a86417f3⋯.jpg (33.97 KB, 800x326, 400:163, KE-8650.jpg)


Kershaw Barricade 8650

Holds edge very nicely. Also fits good in the hand. Used it a ton yet the edge still hasn't gone dull. Window breaker, seatbelt cutter, pocket clip and assisted speed opening. Paid 35 euros for it, but from the review it's 27 dollars in the US.

eca509  No.590743

File: 17b7438854130b4⋯.jpg (51.99 KB, 794x340, 397:170, couteau_kp503-2-z.jpg)

What does /k/ think of Puukos? Should I buy one?

c6a0b5  No.591794

File: f9846f259f45b30⋯.jpg (132.17 KB, 800x533, 800:533, Mk II.jpg)

File: e095f61a936ee14⋯.jpg (40.29 KB, 576x773, 576:773, Chiruwa Ang Khola.jpg)

File: 4d7d0428f06fe9d⋯.jpg (173.28 KB, 800x600, 4:3, Matt Lamey Bowie.jpg)


Yes. Puukkos are great worker blades. No reason not to get one.

a9960e  No.593096

File: 36b8ed857058a59⋯.jpg (43.34 KB, 650x488, 325:244, Tom-Brown-Tracker-2.jpg)

What is your favorite bushcraft knife?

i like becker knives from ontario and they are also ka-bar but i wish they didn't put that coating on the knife but the steel is actually pretty delicate (dents easily)

and i like ur 2nd image. what set is that.

I luv knives. dont have any guns tho.

if you are REALLY into bushcraft, youll probably find this tom brown knife atractive.

94634b  No.593110

File: 11b8d267e2373ca⋯.jpg (49.91 KB, 640x480, 4:3, 4775751_01_winkler_ii_hunt….jpg)


Dont do bushcraft, I think it's gay. I hike, climb and go places, not fuck around in a spot in the woods.

Right now I use a first gen Winkler Hunting Knife with tribal handle. Not great but I like it. I have a Mora Military, rebranded Mora Viking or some shit, that'd be ideal for bushcraft.

The second picture is a custom Winkler Hunting Knife. Very cool but grind is shit, super thick edge, no tip at all and sheath is not great.

94634b  No.593111

File: 908f3892dde1b44⋯.jpg (128.29 KB, 784x521, 784:521, DSC_8086.jpg)


TOPS is highly gay and mostly shit. They stole the Tracker design from David Beck

a4620e  No.593268

What kind of knife would /k/ recommend a poorfag get as a general purpose field knife?

And what would /k/ recommend for those who aren't poorfags, but who can't throw $200-300+ at a knife?

I've got a Buck 112 Ranger at the moment, but I am looking for a good fixed blade.

2b76b2  No.593269


just bite the bullet and get an ESEE

go through Amazon, you can get an ESEE 4 with a sheath for $100 on there.

c6a0b5  No.593317

File: 826bfcbf4427019⋯.jpg (81.26 KB, 600x370, 60:37, BK-7.jpg)

File: a6fbd9bf8c6fb7e⋯.jpg (27.11 KB, 922x520, 461:260, HI khuks.jpg)

File: 5ad36a389fa2f68⋯.jpg (51.66 KB, 550x413, 550:413, Lon Humphrey Camp Knife.jpg)

File: c1152e8d94534c5⋯.jpg (73.91 KB, 1024x576, 16:9, Shiva Ki Fighting Bowie.jpg)

File: d0a22b056153594⋯.jpg (170.67 KB, 800x600, 4:3, Randall 14 Attack.jpg)


TOPS fucked up the blade shape (and corresponding edge geometry of the plain edge) on their Tracker. Others have reground it to be a good cutter, but one should not have to do something so drastic with a $300 knife in order to get it in working condition. YMMV.


The original! Nice.


For a field knife, there are a lot of great options that come cheap. I'd recommend the Becker BK9, anything from Ontario,

If you're a khukuri guy, you might like Himalayan Imports on BladeForums. They have deals over there that fall under $100 USD, and the KLVUK in particular is a steal.

For more mid-sized knives, the Gerber Strongarm is also a great purchase for cheap. Reviewers on YT passed this knife amongst each other and beat the shit out of it, and it never failed. Mora is another great choice, especially if you like scandi blades. ESEE, too, as another mentioned. Great heat treat. The ESEE 5 in particular is fantastic, as is the Izula.

Speaking a little more generally, though, if you can get a full tang knife at an acceptable blade length with a quality heat treat, you should be fine. Stay away from mystery steel or anything made in China. Good luck!

b7cd79  No.596947

I'm looking for a basic switchblade. No larpy stuff, preferably in the $50 range, just a knoife that can duel purpose between utilitarian use as well as self defense if needed. I would go down to a store and buy one off the shelves but clearly I'm no knife autist so I want to know if you guys have anything specific to recommend.

2560e7  No.596959


>a knoife that can duel purpose between utilitarian use as well as self defense if needed

A switchblade is shit for both of those things. A small fixed-blade knife will give you what you want. If you aren't able to carry a fixed blade knife for whatever reason, a traditional folder will serve you better than a switchblade. For self-defense, if you can't get a gun a collapsible baton is going to serve you better, especially if you don't have lots of training.

b7cd79  No.596965


You're probably right, but I briefly looked into it and it seems it's illegal to conceal carry a switchblade in a bunch of states that I'll be stopping in anyways. So, retconning my question, any folding knives you'd recommend? To clarify, reason I'm not going for a fixed knife is because being able to carry the thing in my pocket seems pretty important.

2560e7  No.596973

File: a6564a1bd0a3b50⋯.png (140.64 KB, 1350x699, 450:233, How2baton.png)


For a self-defense tool you can carry in your pocket that isn't a gun, I'd still suggest a collapsible baton–you get better reach, and it's much easier for an amatuer to be somewhat competent with a baton than a knife (stabbing someone requires getting close to them, and if you're not trained in knife fighting that kind of situation can turn against you very quickly). I would also guess there's less legislation against batons compared to knives (some places like Shitcongo regulate how long knife blades can be).

But, you asked for knoife recommendations, so I'll do my best to suggest those. If you're okay paying a premium, I'd go for one of the axis-lock knives from Benchmade. Probably a spear-point like the 495 Vector since you want the knife to have a secondary self-defense use.

b7cd79  No.597006

File: 6186d8a38d8be1a⋯.png (313.58 KB, 393x459, 131:153, very.png)


Will look into batons, and just telling me the words axis-lock and Benchmade alone gives me a good starting point. Thanks mate

f568b3  No.597008


Second the strong arm recommendation the sheath can be mounted to molle and have serrated as well as plain edge options.

366180  No.597197


That other anon's write up was excellent, but I feel I should add that collapsible batons might have legal issues in certain states. Here in VA last I checked they are completely illegal for civilians to use. I still got one shipped to my doorstep though lel

eb14b5  No.597288

File: ed293ed55fd1272⋯.jpg (3.49 MB, 4608x3456, 4:3, 20180408_121204.jpg)

Got me a gator fixed blade from gerber, and i was pleasantly surprised to see it was made in portland oregon. I thought they outsourced rhese days. Except the quality control was shite, one side is overground and the tip has heat marks. But i got into contact, and apparently all i have to do is send it back. Only have to pay it one way too, theyll pay the shipping back. Impressed with their customer service at any rate.

eb14b5  No.597294

File: c831cad549eb9a1⋯.png (139.29 KB, 1600x657, 1600:657, sog_ff11-cp_main_1_1.png)

And i have a sog folder as well, that i quite like. Good blade shape, and it holds an edge quite well. Good flat profile, ambidextrous pocket clip, and its spinelock as well, the only kind of locking mechanism i trust. The salute, if i recall correctly.

74aae3  No.597303

File: 28b4da0a29b49f1⋯.png (60.76 KB, 480x350, 48:35, IMG_3092_final_large.png)

I'd love me a Headhunter Rat Blade but the price is beyond what I can justify for the foreseeable future.

10185e  No.597305


I've got a KA-BAR with the synthetic grip and combo edge. I love it.

fa04d1  No.597312

File: b749553a850a079⋯.jpg (17.68 KB, 498x500, 249:250, s&w.jpg)



b35494  No.597317

File: 37da3acdec38324⋯.jpg (1.89 MB, 3840x2160, 16:9, _20180130_182716.JPG)

Most of my collection, bottom row are Chinese fakes/copies

9066cb  No.597340


Any good knifes for staby staby stuff with occasional slash? I was looking at the vietnam era wasp waist gerbers and FB commando knifes, but those are either china shit that wont stand abuse in a real life scenario, or way too expensive shit that you cant throw away when you make short work of your enemy. I wanted to buy something that will last, but when it breaks I wont cry.

1284e4  No.597360


Nothing wrong with okc stupid head.


>i dont like having the use of my fingers

>the knife

Finnish people are crazy.

81b5b7  No.597416

Do we have an infographic for knives like the one for handguns/rifles/shotguns?

2560e7  No.597418

File: 85efb0aa77af91e⋯.jpg (73.56 KB, 521x485, 521:485, 2B_-_Fixed_knife.jpg)

File: 0a1d7e303187564⋯.jpg (52.73 KB, 514x516, 257:258, 2B_-_Folder_knife.jpg)

File: d7ff7a420726c36⋯.jpg (98.24 KB, 955x829, 955:829, 2B_-_Tangs.jpg)

File: 7412a4eb4c401f4⋯.jpg (575.15 KB, 1125x2000, 9:16, 6b.jpg)

File: ccbcb0458c91498⋯.png (1.04 MB, 1326x852, 221:142, 6B_-_Fixed_Fighting_Knife.png)


There are a couple on the sticky, but they seem a bit dated.

2560e7  No.597419

File: 396719e2f8e31af⋯.png (561.91 KB, 1124x844, 281:211, 6B_-_Folding_EDC_Knife.png)

File: 6c42ea25f628b65⋯.png (543.79 KB, 1316x852, 329:213, 6B_-_Survival_Knife.png)

c6a0b5  No.597507

File: e41f8f2ae28bee7⋯.jpg (250.94 KB, 600x450, 4:3, Bawidamann Trench.jpg)

File: f3c77ac134ad613⋯.jpg (251.37 KB, 1200x800, 3:2, Havocworks Vargr.jpg)

File: 6d248172f0d5159⋯.jpg (468.72 KB, 750x1453, 750:1453, Mark II Ad.jpg)

File: e62904fb81838c4⋯.jpg (151.63 KB, 1188x792, 3:2, Sam Lurquin Brut de Forge.jpg)

File: 489c91f3e0f00ff⋯.jpg (256.73 KB, 2000x1325, 80:53, Anders Hogstrom Persian.jpg)


Sorry to hear you had a bad experience. Gerber's still a mixed bag, but their US-made gear typically has decent quality control these days.

Their machetes and other China-made blades, however, are fucking godawful and continue to embarrass the company.



I'm not crazy about the Knife Guy infographics. Most of these suggestions suck, and the rest is either bad info or common sense. Especially the green one.

Don't get me wrong, I get the intent behind them, and you did indeed post what someone asked for, but these fail at what they try to accomplish.

"Buy a sharpening stone and make sure the sheath is good" is common sense and doesn't need its own macro. People already think of these things before they come here. The guides don't mention important things like Rockwell scaling or blade geometry, stuff that people tend not to think about but need to know. Heat treat's another issue overlooked in these. Same with common alloys – your average Strelok isn't going to need to know all about HAP40 or ZDP189 (nor will he care), but considering that most of the shit he's going to find at the BX or Army Surplus is either 10-series high carbon, 440 stainless, S30V, 420HC, and the occasional VG-10 piece, he should probably know what these mean before he makes a purchase.

Yes, a noob isn't going to know a fucking thing about differential hardening or distal taper, but knowing what to look for with a list of quantifiable metrics is far more valuable information rather than listing a bunch of random knives (regardless of purpose in design) and saying, "here, buy this knife or one like it". That shows him a blade shape to hunt down, but not the trifecta that will help him score a knife that will actually last him a long time: heat treat, blade material, and edge geometry.

168ce9  No.597554

Any suggestions for a boot or neck knife streloks?

4535c9  No.600997

File: 0679ad87adc67a2⋯.jpg (201.8 KB, 800x600, 4:3, Kabar-usn-Mk1.jpg)

File: 31b6e374d4aea9d⋯.png (1.28 MB, 1000x750, 4:3, Kabar-BK7.png)

File: f806305aeb32abd⋯.jpg (70.71 KB, 1280x720, 16:9, BarkRiver-Bravo1.5.jpg)

File: a79cfa3e10d336f⋯.jpg (83.8 KB, 720x480, 3:2, Condor-Bushlore.jpg)

Newfag here preparing to go innawoods and practice bushcraft for fitness, mental health and preparation for the race war. But which knife to pick?

I really like the aesthetics of the Ka-Bar Mk1 or the BK7 but how is their performance? How well do they hold an edge? How easy is it to sharpen them?

I also like the Bark River knives, like the Bravo 1.5. How well do these hold up? Is the price worth it?

Alternatively, I could go for the Condor Bushlore. It's a bit cheaper, not a "will last forever" quality but apparently it's recommended for newbies and has a surprisingly good quality for its price, comparable to the ever popular Moras. It also comes with a leather sheath that people say is worth buying the knife for even if you don't want to use it.

Ultimately I want a knife that can do everything in the bush - carving, shaving, gutting fish, cutting open canned food, even some light batonning of small sticks (no logs though obviously).

I can spend about $100-150.

I have a need for utilitarian aesthetics. Love the Kabar or the Bushlore style, briefly considered getting a bowie knife but those are a little too unwieldy for some bushcraft operations and I don't ascribe to the burger "bigger is better" mentality, although the little stubby knives seem lame on both aesthetics and utility fronts. I also really like traditional wood handles, or at least handles that don't look like nondescript black plastic. Overall, I like the "traditional" look, like something that wouldn't look out of place in Thoreau's pack. Which is why I'm not a fan of all the knives with goofy shapes or handles that look like nondescript black plastic.

But most of all, I want a knife that will last forever. Something that with regular sharpening, occasional oiling and good upkeep will still be on my belt 10 years from now. I'd like it to become my knife, not just a bushcraft tool.

So which of these would be best? Or is there a better alternative? Remember I'm looking for ruggedness and long life above all else, and kabar/traditionalist aesthetics as a close second.

c6a0b5  No.601001


Good choices. KA-BAR's 1095CV is decent and holds an edge, but like all 10-series, rusts. Keep an eye on it. 1095 is easy enough to touch up and can be kept in check with some fine stones or a strop provided you don't let it go dull. Takes a good patina.

Do NOT buy Bark River. QC is all over the place with them. They tend to burn the fuck out of their edges and blame the buyer when the blade inevitably fails, and won't listen to anyone who has tried to get them to change this. You have just as much chance of getting a bad one as you do a good one, which is unacceptable considering their price point. There are many others who will provide a superior blade for the same cash and guarantee it against failure.

Condor is good and their machetes outclass many others on the market, but a lot of their knives need work in order to shine. The Bushlore is no different. Would recommend the Mora Kansbol, Gerber Strongarm, or Terävä Jääkäripuukko over the Bushlore, personally, but they're all polymer-handled.

Lastly, a knife will only last as long as you make it. There are guys out there who use a Mora until it's a shadow of its former self, worn down into a sharp nub. If one blade guaranteed lifelong service, everyone would just buy that instead of wasting time on junk.

4535c9  No.601115

File: f97fa10aa3bdc79⋯.jpeg (538.01 KB, 1200x900, 4:3, LTWright-GenesisMicarta.jpeg)

File: 20c86963df8ce4f⋯.jpg (736.27 KB, 1200x495, 80:33, LTWright-Genesis225dollary….jpg)


Hmm, yes I've heard some bad reviews about Bark River, although fanboys always say that their lifetime warranty will offset any mistakes. But if they're fucking up their tempering/heat treating then I'll stay well away.

The LT Wright knives like the Genesis come in flat grind, although their handles are micarta. Still it's not an ugly micarta per se. And I found one page selling the LTW Genesis with a beautiful wood handle, albeit for a rather painful price. How do they hold up?

I'm really stuck on the need for a rosewood/desert ironwood/dark red wood handle on my knife. I've considered some of the custom makers on the bushcraftusa forums. Adventure Sworn makes a lot of beautiful wood scaled knives, although their prices might be a bit too painful to bear and I don't spy a flat grind in their stock. Are you familiar with any custom makers and their work quality?

You'd think it wouldn't be so hard to find

>Wood scaled

>Flat grind

>Top tier high-carbon steel

>Simple spear point/drop point, no goofy shapes

Is there at least a micarta handled knife that looks like wood?

Another question: How do all the high carbon steels hold up to each other? The LT Wright Genesis uses A2 and the vaunted Spyderco uses O1 steel, how do they compare to the 10 series like 1075-1095? What's a good tierlist?

a96fa0  No.601120


Whoa my dick actually twitched at the havocworks.

c6a0b5  No.601288

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.


Fanboys say a lot of things. It'd be one thing if it were a minor defect, but we're talking about full-convex knives that can't cut through a chopstick without sustaining tremendous edge damage. Couple that with boxy handles that wear into your hands and you've got a serious problem. Shame, too. I really like their 1909 Michigan Bowie.

It's not as hard as you may think. Have you considered Andy Roy's work over at Fiddleback Forge? The Recluse in particular is a great blade. There are lots of good makers who retrofit blades with new material. Sunrise Custom Knives is one. Survival Tactics was another until they closed their doors. Justin Gingrich from Ranger Knives did them on occasion. I'm going to take an Ontario 12" machete to get it rehandled with natural canvas micarta.

I don't have any infographics at the moment, but googling "knife steel guide" pulls up decent pages. That's not much of an offering, I realize, but what you're asking for is a question that requires a big and dedicated response, and most of the top results there can answer that.

Good luck.

ee37c2  No.601646

File: e47b2bf362c29b4⋯.jpg (82.18 KB, 922x519, 922:519, toptier.jpg)

File: 5756180d0efe912⋯.png (525.79 KB, 661x354, 661:354, winklersheath.png)

File: 257fd729365c700⋯.png (155.33 KB, 922x519, 922:519, winkler13.png)

File: b4ca1a1c44494b3⋯.png (670.72 KB, 906x310, 453:155, winkler1.png)


If only you knew how bad things really are in the knife world.

c95256  No.601663

All I have is a Sanrenmu 7010 and Victorinox Huntsman. Have no use for a fixed blade at the moment.

2560e7  No.601733

File: bdd2dad1a9dcb60⋯.jpg (2.71 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, 20180815_173240.jpg)

File: 79c317d4d5f3a4a⋯.jpg (2.62 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, 20180815_173251.jpg)

Got my BK7 hot-blued by a firearms refinisher.

a96fa0  No.601757


Only if you buy from retards.


Every village has someone who does crosses and knives. Go to him, see his work, make sure its good, and then contract a knife.

4535c9  No.601832

File: 0d28bbf70193e09⋯.jpg (121.59 KB, 1200x436, 300:109, Kellam_Puukko.jpg)

File: fb448e259d7128a⋯.jpg (56.23 KB, 492x196, 123:49, Kellam_WolverineSPT.jpg)


I think I've settled on the traditional Finnish Puukko style of knife. It's just an incredibly good knife. Terrible for batoning, but that's why I'm getting a GB Small Forest Axe. The scandi grind is also good for beginners. I've practically fallen in love with the Puukko style.

Initially I wanted to get a knife from Malanika, who is the gold standard of beautiful Pukko custom knives. Couldn't find their prices anywhere, but heard from somebody that a barebones model is somewhere in the neighbourhood of $225.

I think I've settled on the Puukko knives sold by Kellam. They're a nice in between, they hit my budget category perfectly, and they maintain that high quality razor edge perfection of the Finnish design. Pretty handles too!

Kellam is actually more of a brand though, they resell knives by a whole bunch of scandinavian makers. This holds true for a lot of Finnish "cottage" shops - most of their blades are produced by Lauri. Regardless, they're all of rather high quality.

I can't decide between the Kellam Pukko or the Kellam Wolverine. Both are nearly identical, but the Wolverine has a treatment called SPT where the cutting edge gets a differential heat treatment that adds 4 Rockwell hardness points.

I'm leaning towards the plain Puukko model because different hardnesses sound like a mess to sharpen, but a lot of people say the SPT edge makes the Wolverine hold its edge longer and carve through wood like butter.

Which should I get?

30ed77  No.601834


My wife is part Finnish and I keep finding pukko knives throughout the house. Can't help you with your decision though, these ones seem to be handmade by locals.

4535c9  No.601980


>My wife is part Finnish and I keep finding pukko knives throughout the house

I like the idea that Finns just naturally spawn puukkos everywhere they go

86c31f  No.602584

File: 4fc48308c46bf36⋯.jpg (248.15 KB, 1600x900, 16:9, s-l1600.jpg)

Just bought pic related. Going to get the trout and bird variant to accompany it for innawoods fun.

c6a0b5  No.602588

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

A cheap acquisition.


Ha! Great example of why I do thorough vetting of any maker before I commission a blade. I never liked Winkler's work, and I don't understand the popularity. Twenty of his knives equal one from, say, Hossom or Burch. Even Mineral Mountain Hatchet Works turns out better steel than that.


Nice work.


Not a bad choice at all. Scandinavian blades are easy to maintain, simple in their design, and very user friendly. I would personally get the Wolverine; since the aim behind your purchase (I presume) is processing wood, a softer edge will need more work to maintain and keep ready, unless you're fine with that idea. I personally prefer differentially hardened blades.

As for batoning, I'm not a huge advocate of it personally. If it can be done, great, but no problem if not. A good cut is a matter of the right angle and the right leverage.

Ever see Pekka Tuominen's work?

c6a0b5  No.602589

File: baaab9ac60d4e1f⋯.jpg (195.61 KB, 800x533, 800:533, Kansbol.jpg)

c1e8f1  No.602609

File: 0bbab33371e68c5⋯.jpg (33.77 KB, 800x800, 1:1, m95-ranger-peltonen.jpg)

What do you think about this knife? I really wanted to buy it for SHTF purposes (I would obviously use it in forest for "bushcraft" and heavy operations).

It's made in finland.

lamnia. com/en/p/7877/knives/j-p-peltonen-m95-ranger-knife-kydex

c6a0b5  No.602820

File: 5101585006e5eff⋯.jpg (83.33 KB, 736x552, 4:3, Dervish Bowie.jpg)


I've heard those are great field knives, though I've never owned one myself. I like that it was kept simple.


>saber grind, ensuring long service life if it must be reground (looks like it used to be a full flat a while ago)

>6" blade, good long blade for defense

>full tang with comfy overmolded handle

>80CrV2, which seems to be gaining popularity

>drop point, but not so much that it loses piercing ability

>5mm spine, thick blade!

>differential heat treat

>grind begins very close to the finger guard, good for finer carving

>blade shape is very basic and clean: decent belly and blade length for draw cuts

>good sheath to boot!


>no 90 degree spine for striking a firesteel or ferro rod

I'd gladly use that. Good soldier's blade. Looks like it can do some work.

c1e8f1  No.602886


Thanks. I'll definitively buy it when I'll have enough money.

c6a0b5  No.603224

File: 4d565fe251e87c6⋯.jpg (48.47 KB, 880x182, 440:91, TOPS Armageddon.jpg)

File: 7e6232b38243a41⋯.jpg (56.98 KB, 800x395, 160:79, TOPS Tahoma.jpg)

File: ac5f99b4f224c4a⋯.jpg (91.81 KB, 561x560, 561:560, TOPS Steel Eagle Delta Cla….jpg)

File: b23b2ca7661df5c⋯.jpg (296.97 KB, 647x414, 647:414, TOPS Prather.jpg)

File: 23e8eb49e357a2f⋯.jpg (173.67 KB, 800x529, 800:529, TOPS MAK 7.jpg)

TOPS is a mixed bag in my book, but they hold up extremely well in the field by most accounts and are another good example of differentially hardened blades done right.

That being said, I'll be fucked if I know why they keep making mall ninja shit. They produce great knives, once you get past the wildly impractical stuff.

c6a0b5  No.603225

File: eaa4e065b5e43ae⋯.png (875.79 KB, 663x513, 221:171, TOPS CUB.png)

File: 3925bd11c422056⋯.jpg (177 KB, 1000x663, 1000:663, TOPS Steak Knife.jpg)

File: 6f207dcf2442219⋯.jpg (255.65 KB, 900x600, 3:2, TOPS BOB.jpg)

e083e0  No.603951


hormone replacement therapy?

d3cd34  No.604239

File: 1d061326e1e0383⋯.png (688.51 KB, 804x668, 201:167, ClipboardImage.png)

How do I restore the point on a mauser bayonet?

8b1f77  No.604244


stick it up your ass

d3cd34  No.604255


Awww, she's too beautiful for buttplay.

fb7519  No.604293


The same way you create a point on any blade.

1efbbf  No.604301


Enjoy the hours of using a whetstone.

26f721  No.604335

File: 1df47e39939e5dd⋯.jpeg (2.07 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, 73C7B131-9469-4F41-8C65-4….jpeg)

File: e4262100525e1c0⋯.jpeg (2.57 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, 5E38665F-962F-4815-9EEA-2….jpeg)


Mine’s in great condition but I’d imagine you’ll want to sharpen it with the bones of Commies and kikes. Though too much of a point is an issue because it can get your bayonet Stuck in bone

cc4853  No.604336

I'm about to start a knife project (Sgian Dubh). Is anybody interested enough for me to post pics and stuff?

faaaa1  No.604342


Do it homo

cc4853  No.604367

File: 0135bc0fa7ddeb8⋯.jpg (6.12 MB, 5184x3888, 4:3, DSC04947 - Copy.JPG)


This is going to be an anniversary gift for my wife. The theme for this year is cotton or china. I couldn't come up with anything good until I realized that micarta could be made with cotton, then that china is ceramic. Therefore a micarta handled ceramic knife is a perfect gift. (also won't set off metal detectors)

Here's what I'm starting with. I need to get the handle off, then see what the best way to attach the handle will be.

cc4853  No.604491

File: de3a59c90928902⋯.jpg (1.49 MB, 2592x1944, 4:3, aP5cNpydQ%gmPaR6b.JPG)

File: e8a15066ec1cb96⋯.jpg (1.8 MB, 2592x1944, 4:3, bCnxGDEMV9dvtC.JPG)

File: 11e9e1449e18498⋯.jpg (1.93 MB, 1944x2592, 3:4, cN9#t48c@S86Csv3.JPG)

File: e92a9aca993b0d9⋯.jpg (1.58 MB, 2592x1944, 4:3, DNNkHFvV5!g9v^.JPG)


Got the handle off, marked where I want the blade length, ground the edge back, and mocked up the handle with a rag. The shape and proportions worked out better than I was afraid they might. I'll probably just mold the handle to it since that's how it was done in the factory.

da6d7b  No.604589

First question, are these usable knives and not just grinded repros for reenactors?



second, where could I get them in Britain or actual knives like them if they're just intended for reenacting

1efbbf  No.604626


Most likely stuff for reenactors. Better if you found originals.

da6d7b  No.604628


But I wouldn't want a 100 year old knife for anything practical?

1efbbf  No.604631


If taken care of it'll outlast you. For the longest time I used my FS knife for anything and everything before it got swiped and as far as I know my brother still uses an old HJ knife for his daily stuff.

da6d7b  No.604632


your FS knife was most likely a repro, same goes for the HJ knife.

26f721  No.604634


I bought a butcher blade bayonet from them (WWI german boynet) the steel was alright but it had a bit of a point but the blade was like 3-4 mm wide, so no edge at all. I took ‘er to the bench grinder and fucked up the finish but it’s sharp and weighs much less now. Also the general make isn’t too great. I’ll post pictures when I’m home. Also it doesn’t lock on my K98K so I’m sure they’re all just for looks

1efbbf  No.604636


Nope. The tip was borked off at some point and redone with a whetstone and it had the correct broad arrow, had the really fancy brass pommel/grip. The HJ knife my great grandfather got from one of his cousins in Germany before the end of the war. Nowadays I carry around an old M3 I found in a junk pile.

da6d7b  No.604652


Well then, where do I get myself a grabendolch that can actually hold an edge?

faaaa1  No.604659

File: 8c020bb1da4b1b6⋯.jpeg (1.38 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, CF1B0178-9610-43A1-A85E-1….jpeg)

File: 7e4e5d29d6decf2⋯.jpeg (1.56 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, E599ADA4-E5CA-48C9-8EA9-5….jpeg)

File: ee92b531cf6b69a⋯.jpeg (2.3 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, BBD7EDAE-C1F9-4CA3-A307-1….jpeg)

File: 7b7769430ac6059⋯.jpeg (2.31 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, 3C715805-7E22-4FB2-B7A8-7….jpeg)

File: c3b43335b6086f7⋯.jpeg (2.07 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, 2E448C73-6FA5-473D-B437-9….jpeg)


I mean those will probably hold an edge. I’m not smith or metallurgist, and haven’t used pic related much but I assume a proper sharpening would hold a seven edge. Was just warning you that it’ll probably come with 2 extra pounds of steel on the “edge.” As I don’t have any pre-grinding pics this is all I can show you and the knives may all be from different companies. But this is the butcher blade I got from hessen it’s mostly to fuck around with and I rarely use it so fuck off with buggering me about not spending hours to make a proper edge and not fuck the blade up.

First pic is a defect in the steel. 2nd is the incorrectly shaped back of the cross guard, 3rd is the poorly shaped grips. 4th is the blade I fucked up. 5th is the thickness with 12gauge for scale

P.S. it says so in the shipping page but so you don’t fuck up like me (unless it’s only for Canada) they only use UPS to ship, so pay the extra price for the premium or express shipping. UPS doesn’t charge any brokerage fees if you don’t pick the cheaper shipping offer and it is totally worth it. I got about 5-6 packages from hessen antiques over the last year and a half to make my SS LARP costume and the brokerage fees UPS charges for duty and shit is usually hundereds of dollars because most of that shit wasn’t made in the US. I don’t know bing import rules or again it might be just for Canada but read the shipping page because I could have saved hundreds if I didn’t choose the cheaper shipping option.

faaaa1  No.604660

File: 3bd1f0de97dd598⋯.jpeg (1.89 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, 48786267-E8E0-4C90-B98B-4….jpeg)

d3cd34  No.604685


How is that done?


Wish I knew where I left my whetstone.

c6a0b5  No.604929

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

Here's a decent video for tip restoration, although I'm not fond of the prolonged holding of the steel to the grit, and the shallow dunks in the water to "cool the blade off".

What Cliff Stamp pointed out is worth restating here: blades require a very specific treatment with regards to temperature and hardening. If one is going to do the "quick and easy" way to alter blade geometry by using a belt sander, one must recognize the risk inherent to that powered equipment and the intense friction caused by the running abrasives.

Ice the water with salt, and run that grinder or belt on slow. Get that blade cold before removing steel. Otherwise you'll end up with the same problem Bark River has with their blades.

c6a0b5  No.605668

File: b7a059dcc6d7791⋯.jpg (65.23 KB, 700x525, 4:3, ESEE 5.jpg)

File: 4dacb4b76099896⋯.jpg (89.93 KB, 1200x675, 16:9, Gerber Strongarm.jpg)

File: 96f227e428884c7⋯.jpg (78.82 KB, 1024x768, 4:3, Fallkniven A2.jpg)

File: b4cae8b08437ab2⋯.jpg (2.8 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, Shirogorov 111.jpg)

File: 30d5000da20a7ef⋯.jpeg (289.3 KB, 968x1296, 121:162, X-Rhea Bowie.jpeg)

A few more pieces, both common and obscure.

e6b819  No.605700


>b-but i poop from there

56012b  No.605840

File: 592f4847c7e131f⋯.png (268 KB, 800x639, 800:639, ClipboardImage.png)

Are pocket sharpeners like picrelated memes?

1cf77e  No.605871


Carbide sharpeners absolutely fuck your shit up. A pocket-sized ceramic stone and some practice with freehand sharpening would be a much wiser investment.

c6a0b5  No.605890



Seconded. Would recommend Lansky's actual system over some cheap pull-through sharpener they make, or the Spyderco Sharpmaker. Next step is the KME.

259518  No.607084

File: a7e419e474983ba⋯.png (1.55 MB, 1193x747, 1193:747, 2213.png)


On behalf of Winkler knives today, I must say that hunting knife is an early model, and I have a newer Recon that is better finished and symmetrical. Still not worth 400$ though, maybe 150$ max, and only because of the sheath.

They have toothy edges and grind marks everywhere, they smell like shit and leave a bad taste in food, the hunting knife has an uneven ground edge on each side, a retarded tip and it's amateurishly ground at the ricasso.

Who knows, I might have gotten an early vintage collectible treasure and I dont know it, but as a knife it's quite shit. I bought it second hand for a good price ( I thought) but I still regret it. Nowadays I wouldnt pay more than 90$ for something like that.

I expected a belt knife, good for cutting and I got a more expensive BK2 axe-chisel-batonny knife.

Winkler is in my mind Emerson squared, shit quality at astonishing prices. At least it's sharp and I guess tough as well. That hunting knife is my beater knife for now, I'll maybe sell the recon.

Other than the Navy SEAL hype and shady marketing I dont understand the appeal. They look like historical tactical practical but are neither historical nor practical. And they're comfortable but not as much as a Morakniv anyways.

259518  No.607096

File: dbb305bcffd770d⋯.jpg (92.42 KB, 550x412, 275:206, delica.jpg)


I like Spydercos for work knives, they look like work tools and not mallninja shit (the ones I'd suggest)

Get a Delica 4 or an Endura 4 FFG to start, you can get them new for that price. They're not top notch but they'll cut much better than what you have, most probably. As for the feel it's not great , because of the plastic scales, but friendly colors help you (green, blue, purple etc..).

Because there are thousands of knives with thousands of prices I would not recommend anything more expensive. Lurk around yourself for that. However dont forget good quality knives stand the test of use and time, which means it's perfectly acceptable to buy used knives in the second hand market, allowing you to fish for bargains from time to time.

cbd9a6  No.607194

File: c0ea19c16a48caf⋯.webm (13.62 MB, 640x360, 16:9, Artistic Spyderco Film.ex….webm)

Is Spyderco a meme, or should I get a PM2?

3b2003  No.607238


I can't say I fault you for wanting something better out of a $400 purchase. It says something when a "custom" at that price range can be outclassed in just about every category by a $10 Mora or $50 Ontario.


Sure, knock yourself out. Plenty of people love theirs. I've considered picking up a Gayle Bradley 2 for a while there, but will probably pick up a Para 3 instead.

5682f6  No.607248

my criteria in order is materials, locking mechanism if its a folder, blade shape, and how comfortable it is in the hand. price is obviously bound to what i can afford at the time, but i have no issues in spending 250 on a fixed blade and 150 on a folder when i can afford it. spine locks are the only locking mechanism worth buying imo. oh, and i wont buy partially serrated knives, if i want to cut rope and things ill buy some pos beater knife and give it a rough edge with a coarse file, that works better than serrated blades for rope anyway. got that trick from an old sailor i know, never used anything else to cut rope since. and ive yet to find something else youd need a serrated blade for.

5682f6  No.607249

brand loyalty is for chumps anyway, if its a good knife ill buy it.

6325c1  No.607261


I haven't heard that rough file for your rope knife trick. Gonna try that, I have a single knife on my climbing rig just for cutting rope if needed (only once so far and I was the hang up…)

56012b  No.607262

File: ad9be32dc0fb5e5⋯.png (214 KB, 784x259, 112:37, ClipboardImage.png)



That's fair, makes sense about the carbide. Regarding meme sharpeners, Benchmade makes this thing, which is an actual stone and not a pull-through. Any good?

69ac86  No.607264


That's just a rebrand of a worksharp product. They work ok, especially for the price. It's great as a field sharpening kit for someone who has trouble maintaining a stable angle. Good for reinforcing technique. The strop kind of sucks, but you have a belt on you most of the time.

c6a0b5  No.607348

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.


>meme sharpeners/meme knives/etc

Don't think like this. If it works, use it. If people get asshurt and disapprove of something that clearly works for you, who cares?

The pattern I'm noticing is that you're gravitating towards sharpeners that work off of preset angles. For field expedience, that should work fine since it's not a pull-through carbide. There are plenty of guys out there who get by with a diamond or ceramic rod in the field, but that should do.

Side note: learning to freehand will take you far.

56012b  No.607382


>the pattern I'm noticing is that you're gravitating towards sharpeners that work off of preset angles.

That's partly it. Mostly it's that I have store credit with REI and Optics Planet, and I'm gravitating towards products that they carry. I'm not opposed to learning freehand, I just figure with something like that Worksharp, I can always choose not to use the preset. I don't have any qualms about using "meme" options (nor are they the only thing I'm considering), and don't really give a shit if some anon retard gets asshurt about my choice. I just figure 8chong is the best place to ask about "meme" options because the cynical contrarianism of anons means they're all too happy to point out the flaws of something that JewtuberMcShekelstein6969 will blindly praise.

ecca24  No.607412

polite sage for blatant shilling, but if theres any ausfags that want a kukri, go to khukurihouseonline.com, and find the khhi australia option lower right of the header. adelaide warehouse, and we avoid some tax, and a few other things. currently, the most expensive kukhuri in the aus section is about 175aud, and the cheapest actual one is 79.

ecca24  No.607413

i guess im retarded, the prices are still in us, mea culpa

c6a0b5  No.607807

File: c39b9f44490fb29⋯.jpg (260.7 KB, 1600x785, 320:157, Spyderco Para 3.jpg)

File: b3719e60c7f05f2⋯.jpg (57.28 KB, 1146x357, 382:119, Shobu Zukuri 2.jpg)


You've been on halfchan /k/ too long.

The Lansky red box is probably the cheapest preset system out there, albeit it does take a bit of accessorizing to get it up to snuff. Once you get a stand for it, it's basically a poor man's KME. One question I don't believe was asked (and if it was, I overlooked it): is the intention to use this sharpener in the field, or are you looking for a workbench setup?

bcf6af  No.607868


>You've been on halfchan /k/ too long.

Never visited once. This would be for field use, I figure the Sharpmaker would be best for at-home.

c6a0b5  No.608037

File: c06cbc633d5e503⋯.jpg (973.46 KB, 3024x3780, 4:5, GiantMouse GM5.jpg)

On a totally unrelated note, I have a deep affinity for high saber grinds and well executed clip points. I love it when these two factors come together. The end result is always classy and utilitarian.


If it's just for field use, that should be fine. Bottom line as it was mentioned before is to avoid pull-through sharpeners that use aluminum carbides. They take off too much metal.

If not that, then a diamond rod or ceramic rod. Even a good stropping will be enough to restore an edge if it hasn't been overworked. Good luck.

4de69d  No.608300

File: bfe0550799f5ec3⋯.jpg (37.48 KB, 640x480, 4:3, bfe0550799f5ec35a77e64f67c….jpg)

Hey Spain if you are still here what would you recomend for a fixed blade combat knife? Preferably stiletto at or 6' inches?

259518  No.608352

File: cc796e1acf801b6⋯.jpg (310.43 KB, 1032x774, 4:3, entrek_commando_tactical_k….jpg)


What does "combat knife" mean

0a655b  No.608366



that tactical kitchen knife looks cool but i'd not sharpen the back side of the blade, only the tip

0a655b  No.608367

File: 22352cea469c6f0⋯.jpg (203.45 KB, 1200x900, 4:3, 032614-4.jpg)


Fairbairn Sykes or something knife is pretty good and is the closest to stiletto of fighting knifes. If you want a stiletto, get a stiletto though.

1efbbf  No.608376


I'd personally recommend a M3 if you can find it.

8c6585  No.608380


Fairbairn sykes.

Although make sure it's full tang, there is a ricasso, the handguard is S-shaped, it has a spherical impact knob on the butt and both sides of the handguard.

That's a real FS.

9ac6ea  No.608589


Be aware that there are flaws with the FS design. The triangular cross section makes it hard to put a good edge on the blade, and the round handle makes it impossible to know where the edge unless you are drawing it from a sheath. There were several combat reports of agents in WWII trying to slash at their enemy with what turned out to be the flat of the blade. Some agents even milled or filed down the sides of the handles so that they could tell by touch where the edge was.

The cross guard also prevents the use of saber grips, unless the thumb nail is trimmed short. Otherwise it has a tendency to peel back the nail when a thrust hits something hard, like bone or ballistic plates.

The fine, needle point is also prone to snapping off during use.

It's a good knife, but it is designed for eliminating the enemy mostly using thrusts to vital areas of the body.

c9453c  No.608595

>handle KA-BAR brand KA-BAR

>feels nice

>buy my own KA-BAR brand KA-BAR

>feels awful

>revisit not-my KA-BAR brand KA-BAR

>feels awful

Well fuck.

Are there any knives that have a similar profile and weight to an American M1 Bayonet? I could always find one that's been mangled up, but I'd rather get something new and not haggle for defaced surplus.

9590a3  No.608606


isn't fighting with knives dumb and you're better off quick drawing mace to gain distance to shoot while your foe is temporary disabled?

259518  No.608664

File: cd789d43e3d4e88⋯.jpg (240.31 KB, 720x480, 3:2, close combat lg.JPG)

File: d3719be62db6231⋯.jpg (52.4 KB, 885x588, 295:196, Entrek_MercMKII_1024x1024.jpg)

File: a1f734b387e7fcf⋯.jpg (751.52 KB, 2048x1536, 4:3, 2-mid_15th_bollock.jpg)

File: 91e9bd42dc45c68⋯.jpg (13.09 KB, 480x360, 4:3, image_07c26df6-5374-4101-a….jpg)






You're not Spain.

I would not seriously consider killing someone with a knife as a designated weapon if it isnt a pointy dagger at around 8 inches.

c6a0b5  No.608984

File: 636aff934cdd680⋯.jpg (256.8 KB, 1000x750, 4:3, Al Mar Applegate Fairbairn.jpg)

File: 59af5cca66ff7fb⋯.jpg (110.69 KB, 1190x886, 595:443, Boker Applegate-Fairbairn ….jpg)

File: 8efb03b8e2140c7⋯.jpg (319 KB, 600x450, 4:3, Extrema Ratio Suppressor G….jpg)

File: 105f30f462e1652⋯.jpg (1.43 MB, 1800x1515, 120:101, Gerber Mark II Original.jpg)

Since we're posting daggers…


The Philippines, Indonesia, Malaysia, hell, pretty much the entire region of Southeast Asia would like a word with you. There is no "fighting with knives", only killing with them. You will not always have the advantage of range or open unrestricted movement, which is where edged weapons come in. The short blade prevails in confined spaces, which arnisadors have known for a long time and some veterans of OIF had to learn the hard way.


A picture would help, considering that there's more than one M1 out there.


>fairbairn sykes

>triangular cross section


c9453c  No.609013

File: 150cc0be91b6e42⋯.jpg (122.3 KB, 2000x955, 400:191, post-46191-1334945731.jpg)

a7161d  No.609048

File: 6cd1d73c14c0fd1⋯.jpeg (72.05 KB, 1155x1155, 1:1, 164BBC85-2A24-4A53-9EDD-E….jpeg)

It’s meme-tier as fuck but it’s a genuinely good knife. Used mine countless times innawoods for chopping wood and cutting rope. Relatively easy to keep sharp and no rust problems.

c6a0b5  No.609514


Okay, let's have a look.

>10" blade

>broad fuller

>spear point

>double guard

>bird's beak pommel

>palm swell handle

Aside from buying a straight up repro, I came up with these. Blade length alone yields few enough results without throwing things like weight into the metrics to narrow the result pool further. With no idea of your price point, here are my findings.

>Fallkniven MC1

>Ontario SP5 (I own this one and love it)

>Condor Combat Machete

>Extrema Ratio Ordinanza

>Extrema Ratio Operativo

>Todd Begg Guerilla

>Ontario SP50

>Ontario SP51

It's worth pointing out that this knife is configured in such a way because it was originally much longer, fitting into short sword dimensions, where the broad fuller made much more sense. You see broad fullers in legacy (read: old) designs from time to time, like the Marbles Ideal Knife or any KA-BAR, but aside from a few outliers they're hard to find.

c9453c  No.609520


I appreciate the suggestions Anon - really didn't expect it seeing as I went full retard and left it a bit vague and left out that I was mainly focused on the grip profile since the standard KA-BAR grip is giving me lots of grief while I much prefer the feel of a solid bird's beak pommel(as you put it) over the flat disc it has.

A repro is tempting, and I could even shorten it without feeling terrible about it, but I'll look over your suggestions a few times and see if any stand out.

c6a0b5  No.610605

File: 28b3eb9e1a0dd77⋯.jpg (83.49 KB, 864x648, 4:3, Becker BK-9.jpg)


I don't like the KA-BAR Fighting Knife, personally. There are far better knives to be had for the same price, sometimes less. That isn't to say that the company makes bad knives, however.

If your main point of interest is the handle, I'd just as soon say for you to get a Becker BK9. Roughly the same size blade with better geometry, full tang, contoured handle, and a pommel you seem to be looking for.

c9453c  No.610613

File: 1d0de4741e72961⋯.gif (483.38 KB, 141x141, 1:1, aznthumbsup.gif)


Looks perfect, thanks Anon.

884644  No.610624

File: 44fb5ec6c170bd8⋯.jpg (115.37 KB, 871x406, 871:406, vzbayonet.jpg)

thinking of picking up one of these anyreason why i shouldn't?

c6a0b5  No.610631

File: 96f227e428884c7⋯.jpg (78.82 KB, 1024x768, 4:3, Fallkniven A2.jpg)

File: 18e688b075ae84d⋯.jpg (25.47 KB, 1024x394, 512:197, Randall Toothpick 12.jpg)

File: f992f0ee8f61ebe⋯.jpg (148.96 KB, 960x639, 320:213, havocworks keres.jpg)


No worries. I think you'll enjoy it, the BK9 is a really solid knife as you'll hear from the million gear reviewers on YouTube.


>all these bayonets lately

Are you planning on buying it to put on an AK, or are you just a fan of the design?

56012b  No.610691

File: 1aa7091a27a9301⋯.jpg (2.71 MB, 4032x3024, 4:3, 20180923_125957.jpg)


I've got a BK7 myself, has worked great. What would you say is the capability gap between the two? So far it just seems like the BK9 can baton sticks that are a big bigger in diameter, and that's about it. Also,


Post your knaifu's home when she's not in your hand. Leather is purdy but retains water, if you don't want your knives to rust you better be using Kydex.

1efbbf  No.610693


Its entirely cast. They will break, they don't hold an edge well and are really fucking prone to rust.

t.vz user

884644  No.610713


a cast knife? whose brilliant idea was that?

is a kalashnikov bayonet better?


I want one as a standalone knife, but I can put it on vz.58 when i finally get to building

it, however they might not be really good

c9453c  No.610732


>is a kalashnikov bayonet better?

None of the AK bayonets hold an edge, not even the wirecutter.

Bayonets are for stabbing, anon.

884644  No.610752


>Bayonets are for stabbing, anon.

Im planning a trip in which i will have to mill around the streets of la from 12am-7am till am track starts working

1efbbf  No.610787


Some communist who figure it'd save money that is who.

>AK bayonet

Good for a wirecutter, a Hori-Hori and stabbing.

c6a0b5  No.610825

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.


As far as how the two are different, the BK7 has a profile with a finer (and if you ask me, better) point. The BK9 has roughly the same edge geometry, but terminates to a stronger albeit chunkier point – something of note for those guys who like to drill divots.

It's not just a matter of batoning. The 9 outclasses the 7 in most all cutting tasks. Heft in chopping and length in slashing play obvious mechanical roles. It's a longer lever. You'll find that the BK9 takes less force on your part to achieve the same cut as a BK7 since you're dealing with a more robust blade. There are lots of factors that play a role behind cutting performance (sharpness, blade geometry, technique, edge alignment, etc), but more mass behind the blade means more inertia behind the edge, translating to a more authoritative cut, whether that's a hack or a slice. Enjoy the video.

That being said, the other outliers are that it can be used far more easily as a draw knife and planer, provided that the spine is squared off to a true 90 degrees. Your free hand has more real estate to choke up on the spine and get shavings or ferrules. This can be done with the BK7, but like I said, it's harder to do. I still prefer the BK7, even with all this said.


For self-defense, there are better knives out there for concealment, for deployment, and for making your cut. If you really want it, by all means buy it. Do you have any edged weapons training?

a2ad71  No.611614


I'd honestly be interested to see how a cast blade would perform tbh, I wouldn't be so quick to throw judgements. It was good enough for tank turrets back in the day.

Although I wouldn't trust my life with one off the bat.

cae297  No.611618

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

Reminder that knives are often MORE regulated than guns and you should all join an advocacy group or three to push back and reclaim those rights

ca72b2  No.611789

File: 4fa829703d4c090⋯.png (331.51 KB, 200x604, 50:151, ClipboardImage.png)

just bought this bad-boy, cant wait for it to come in. full flat tang, and though it lacks the flare for the rear of the handle, a quick leather wrap should fix that. 9.5mm blade thickness, 10.5 inch overall length, 875 gram actual weight.

ca72b2  No.611793


>not oiling your sheath

thats like, basic leather care. get a rag on a stick, get some mineral oil or leather care oil of your choice on it, and get the inside of the sheath with it. get some dubbin on the outside as well. never had any rust issues wit the ancient knife i used to own with a leather sheath from doing just that.

a2ad71  No.611805

File: 1dae4a846647b2b⋯.jpg (36.03 KB, 460x397, 460:397, shocked pepe.jpg)


>9.5mm blade thickness

>125g off being a kilo

ca72b2  No.611808


thats whats called a working knife, son. its basically an axe. they make amazing camp knives. not bad for butchering either, with some practice, you can skin with them, and also use them as a cleaver. and that thickness is just the straight spine section, it tapers after the curve.

a2ad71  No.611810


it's ridiculous lad. im not criticising or anything, i'm just in awe. ive never really seen anything like it apart from short swords. i can certainly imagine it'll be brutally good at chopping. that, without a doubt, IS the knife i've ever seen.

admit it, you got it just so you could authentically quote that famous crocodile dundee line

ca72b2  No.611812


that was a thought i had as i bought it, yes. oh, and its not 10.5 overall, its a 10.5 blade length.

60f80b  No.611980

File: 54121a8841b1a9a⋯.jpg (423.57 KB, 1037x691, 1037:691, Ka-bar newer.jpg)


Ka-Bars are Awesome. USMC Semper Fi

56012b  No.611987


Fuck off boomer

45be9d  No.611999


How about U Suck My Cock?

c1e8f1  No.612006

I don't seen anything in this thread about the fallkniven A2 (and relative).

These are very expansive knifes.

Are they overpriced? Is it too pricy for a knife at all? (fear of losing it, being stolen etc…)

I always have this fear of losing my gears/having it stolen during SHTF. It would hurt a lot of lose such a pricy blade.

What would be an acceptable price for a knife, if you want it to be serious?

I have my eyes on this M95 ranger >>602609 that cost around 80 euros.

I seriously don't know if I should go for them, buy like 2/3 of them to be sure to have backup, or simply buy cheap moras to everyone in my family.

0b0892  No.612014


Looking up the Fallkniven A2 I see a price of about 400-470€.

They are really good knifes, but the problem is for the same price you can buy extremely good custom made knives.

I have no idea how the prices are where you live, but here in Germany by a price of about 150€ you can get a good custom made knife that is at the high point of quality and will do everything you need it for.

Everything above that and your are paying for a brand name, the name of a "famous" knife maker/designer, a fancy pattern on the blade or expensive handle/sheath material.

c1e8f1  No.612031


Thanks, I'll look on custom made knife.

56012b  No.612060


True, leather works well if you take care of it, but that goes for just about everything–problems arise when you can't or don't do anything properly, e.g. if, even if your sheath is oiled, you stick your blade in soaking wet, forget about it, and let it sit. Kydex sheaths have a little drip hole in the bottom to help mitigate this.

ca72b2  No.612233


well, i kind of assumed that anyone willing to drop good money on good knives is going to treat them good and proper.

e688d4  No.612337


I have an A2 and it is by far the best knife I have ever owned

I haven't regretted a singe penny I spent on it

e688d4  No.612338


>Leather is purdy but retains water, if you don't want your knives to rust you better be using Kydex.

the only time I sheath my knife is when it's on my hip

when I am storing it, I wrap it in a silicone oiled cloth and keep it in a ceder box

even kydex can act as a moisture trap and cause your baby to rust

d3cd34  No.613023

File: 890861b095f542d⋯.png (1.03 MB, 895x798, 895:798, ClipboardImage.png)

Which bayonet should I nab? #7's seen some shit, but #6 looks pretty damn beautiful and a bit longer.

9e375b  No.613040

File: 5e0cd6e54cf6262⋯.png (133.82 KB, 251x478, 251:478, mai knaifu.PNG)

File: 1ec9d83b1511599⋯.png (243.83 KB, 996x729, 332:243, benchmade.PNG)

Is it worth it to get a Hidden Canyon Hunter from Benchmade for $95?

a2ad71  No.613107


I'm an idiot but that doesn't look like $95 worth of knife to me.

a2ad71  No.613110



Then again I did buy a Boker Plus Urban Trapper Petite for about as much, albeit the titanium version. It looks nice but the blade could be longer for that price on a fixed.

a2ad71  No.613115


5 looks the nicest but it's your choice anon. 7 has that sexy handle design, with a bit of love it would be gawjus.

56012b  No.613119


What does it do that an Izula-II can't do? You can get the latter for a good deal cheaper, only advantage of the Benchmade from what I can tell is the S30V memesteel.

9e375b  No.613125


I didn't want too long of a blade because I plan on using it to clean game and didn't want to nick the colon.


>What does it do that an Izula-II can't do?

I don't know; I've never heard of Izula-II before.

56012b  No.613163

File: efda0ffce53e93c⋯.png (1.06 MB, 1008x672, 3:2, ClipboardImage.png)


It's a knife from ESEE that's similar to yours but a good deal cheaper.

c6a0b5  No.613230

File: cba96fed084a212⋯.jpg (166.61 KB, 900x600, 3:2, Mora Eldris.jpg)


>benchmade anything

I really want to tell you no. Benchmade direly needs to get their heads out of their asses and stop with the really simple quality control issues that could be fixed with a simple spot check before sending it out the door. We're talking uneven grinds, inconsistent bevels, blade play in folders, and other annoying things that have no business being on knives at such a high price point. S30V, at that. You're not even getting 20CV or M390 or 204P for your trouble. Just basic vanilla S30V. I say this as someone who owns a 943.

Try a Mora Eldris instead for a comparably sized fixed blade. Comparable dimensions to the Hidden Canyon, so you can see for yourself whether or not you'd be served by a blade that size, at a non-committal price.

0f95df  No.613246

File: 84f1345e2e761c5⋯.jpeg (34.23 KB, 346x231, 346:231, 7506de9ca0bf3e67d2b3ffdc7….jpeg)

The best all round knife for outdoor use.

a2ad71  No.613255

File: e2f49e65fb866d2⋯.png (1.26 MB, 1396x785, 1396:785, ClipboardImage.png)


After watching the japanese guy who makes knives out of everything's videos, I really want to try my hand at proper whetstone sharpening but is it worth it? I'm no chef, these are some costly slabs of stone. What is the best, rather a better alternative sharpening system for folders and small ish fixed blades on a lower budget?

148bb3  No.613260


Go to your local Harbor Freight or equivalent unless hardware stores are banned or heavily restricted in bongland.

They have cheap ones there. Usually less than 20 burgerbux.

a2ad71  No.613265


Went to Wickes and Homebase, we have hardware stores. They had Stanley sharpening kits which were basically just a rough grit block and some kind of roller jig. That was basically it and I didn't much like the look of it. They didn't seem to have any proper stones, not even cheap ones.

Also where do I get a table clamp thing like in the video?

8259f7  No.613272


And that is? You picture is too small to see the maker.

8259f7  No.613276


You can get good whetstones for less than 30€ on amazon.

Also learning to properly sharpen your knifes and other tools is a valuable skill in life, but it requires practice.

a2ad71  No.613277


Yeah, it being a skill the requires practice rather than a bought ability is half the reason I want to go that route. Still scared of fucking up my blades though. I'll look around on there, cheers.

a2ad71  No.613278


*that requires practice

cb2567  No.613279

The perfect standalone survival knife:

>high carbon steel or certain low alloy tool steels (1095, O1, A2, 5160?) or 3V.

>.13-.16 inches thick (3-4 mm)

>5-6 inches blade length

>scandi or flat grind

>slight drop point / hunter style with lots of belly

>front quillion

>20-25º edge bevel

>1-1.5 inch tall blade

>full tang construction

>pinned micarta or wood handle

>leather or kydex (more durable) sheath

>lanyard hole

>loop on sheath for firesteel

>flat spine (no swedge)

>sharp spine for firesteel

>uncoated blade

>no choil or ricasso

0f95df  No.613293


Knivsmed Strømeng, this version with finger guard is made for the Norwegian special forces. 8" long 59 HRC carbon steel blade with blued finish. It's good for hunting, fishing, cutting poles for the tent and splitting wood in the field. It's pretty damn robust too, have had mine for 16 years, and even after a lot of heavy use, it's still good as new.

e688d4  No.613296


The book "The Razor's Edge" will help a lot.

Buy a cheap kitchen knife to start with.

e688d4  No.613306


That's a cool knife.

Where could I buy one?

The website doesn't help much and google is isn't finding a store for me.

0f95df  No.613465


It seems to be quite a challenge to get one outside of Norway, guess the best option would be to contact the maker directly.

9ac6ea  No.613470

I'm thinking of getting a Kukri from Himalayan Imports.

What length would /k/ recommend?

I am thinking of either the 12inch "Ang Khola", the British Service Kukri, or the 12inch Sirupati martial arts Kukri




c6a0b5  No.613482

File: 3e67c4550404b47⋯.jpg (76.05 KB, 600x270, 20:9, 18 Sirupati.jpg)


I can attest to Himalayan Imports. I owned an 18" Chiruwa Ang Khola for a while, and I liked it.

Since Himalayan Imports uses overall length as a reference for size rather than blade length, I would say that these seem rather small, unless it's specifically a smaller khuk you're looking for. In that case, you might like the Keshar Lal Villager Utility Knife (KLVUK) that tends to show up on their BladeForums page. Auntie Yangdu really has a lot of great deals there that you won't find on their main page, and she posts them every few days or so.

I prefer a khukuri to have a blade about 12" long from bolster to tip, and if I had to make my purchase again, it would probably be a sirupati for the reach and lighter weight.

a85008  No.613487


What is your Khukuris overall length? And perhaps a 15inch (overall) sirupati would be a better choice? It looks closer to the 'traditional' size than the 12inch version.


c6a0b5  No.613489


I don't have it any longer, but the overall length was 18". The handle was longer than I cared for, and the only model they make with a curved handle is their dui chirra, which I've considered in the past.

If you're asking me what I would prefer, I would probably go with an 18" sirupati because of the reduced mass of the sirupati profile. Sirupatis are made for reach and speed, so they lack the mass of the common budhume models you see everywhere, which you'd have to make up for with the longer blade.

Not knowing your needs, preferences, or physical dimensions, I can only comment on what worked for me. I remember some good reviews on the 15" siru, but would advise you to check the BladeForums deals of the day before purchasing them from the site outright. You may find one (or one like it) for cheaper.

d2022d  No.613636

File: 8936c51b383d204⋯.jpg (27.17 KB, 520x387, 520:387, 1538391126313.jpg)

I'm looking for a bayonet to put on my 590, seems like a disservice to not have one for it. Is there any out there that have a good reputation? Also is there a way to classify bayonets? IE this type will fit this lug on this rifle?

1efbbf  No.613648


Any M9 pattern bayonet will lug right on without any problem. Also most bayonets tend to be only for their on rifle, only real multi use I've seen is G98/K98 bayonets will lug onto a FN49 and a M6 hilariously fits onto a M95 Steyr. Anything else out there has/was converted over to be used with X rifle like what the Norwegians and Turks did when they got Garands.

eb5a3d  No.613659


>Still scared of fucking up my blades though.

Try getting old kitchen knifes for cheap, you can sharpen even stainless steel knifes without a problem on a stone its just a little more work.

If that isn't possible buy cheap mercator/opinel/douk douk/higonokami knifes for less than 20€ from amazon and use them for practice.

ca72b2  No.613844


ive got the OEF kukri from KHHI coming inside the next week, ill drop a casual review on here when it does. they have an aussie section with cheaper prices than the HI site, so if the knives are good quality i reckon youd be better off. theyve also got the british service kukri, its 85usd, as opposed to 200. ive heard good reports about that particular knife as well.

6ed513  No.613859


>basic vanilla S30V

there's barely any difference between S30V and m390. S30V is already an extremely hard steel.

9ac6ea  No.613901


Got a link to the cheaper Aussie section of HI mate? I seem to have the stupids today and cant find it.

19060c  No.613907

File: 39729938d2b787b⋯.jpg (376.56 KB, 567x1008, 9:16, IMAG0088-20181006-00384065….jpg)

File: 5340d0d37569ce1⋯.jpg (357.5 KB, 567x1008, 9:16, IMAG0086-20181006-00390797….jpg)





I had a pretty bad experience with KHHI. Took them 2 months and complaining to paypal to get them to ship, and pic related happened after about 10 minutes of light chopping. Grain structure shows signs of bad overheating.

9ac6ea  No.613909


I just noticed they have an entire section on repairing defective tangs in their FAQ. And their solution is to weld the tang back together…


ca72b2  No.613913


oof. did you get it replaced with their 1 year guarantee? and i went for the full flat tang anyway, so unless im spectacularly retarded, that bitch aint breaking. and yours is the only knife ive seen of theres anywhere online thats broken at the tang like that.


yeah, i saw the KHHI boys doing that in a video, they weld it, then they heat and beat it, which should should being the operative term deal with the stresses. and its khukuri house that does the cheaper option, not himalayan imports.

i cant find anyone leaving bad reviews for ether KH or HI, but i do mostly see HI being pushed as higher quality. ill make my decision on it once i get mine in.

9ac6ea  No.613914


One more question - did you get this from Khukuri House (KHHI) or Himalayan Improts (HI)? They are two different stores, and one has a reputation for sub-par heat treatment from what I've read over at bladeforum.

ca72b2  No.613918

another maker i see being recommended, though not nearly as often, is tora house. brit owned, but the blades are still made in nepal. they are noted for their lighter blades that are closer to the classic kukris with their lighter weight.

19060c  No.613925


I was too disgusted to bother.


I got it from:


If I get another one, it will be from HI.

c6a0b5  No.613931

File: 217c6696bdec53c⋯.jpg (195.81 KB, 1024x578, 512:289, khuk1.jpg)

File: db4532a0c5baba2⋯.jpg (149.14 KB, 1024x525, 1024:525, khuk2.jpg)

File: 9dea4b58d3c6efc⋯.jpg (156.45 KB, 1024x621, 1024:621, khuk3.jpg)

File: 0beaf5a1cf610c8⋯.jpg (146.75 KB, 1024x745, 1024:745, khuk4.jpg)

File: d2edd2242f317a2⋯.jpg (464.2 KB, 1024x682, 512:341, khuk5.jpg)


>barely any because they're both hard steels

I disagree. This can't be your only criteria if you're going to make a claim like that. Looking past the respective data sheets, steel tends to say a lot with how it responds to sharpening (which is why people hate Maxamet despite its perceived benefits, and why people are averse to S90V despite excellent qualities like wear resistance).

S30V is a great baseline considering there are still manufacturers out there using 420HC and it certainly set a standard in the industry, but to say there's no difference at all between the two is a little crazy when any of the three alloys I listed have marked edge retention and toughness above S30V. Where "basic vanilla" came in was simply that it is used as a minimum for higher end knives, though I can see how it came off as snobbish.


KHHI will do custom designs and blade repair, but I'm inclined to agree with you. I was not a fan of the khuk I was sent. The steel was incredibly soft and needed attention after every use, although I had no tang issues since mine was full profile as opposed to full rat. Compared to the Himalayan Imports I ended up getting later, the difference is night and day.

feb244  No.614641



Warning, check your state laws (and, in some areas, also local laws), before sporting a bayonet on a rifle. That's because they may be considered a spear.

ca72b2  No.614804

File: 8a7300cfaf49671⋯.jpg (4.01 MB, 4608x3456, 4:3, 20181009_144209.jpg)

File: a2e843a55b5ce2d⋯.jpg (3.66 MB, 4608x3456, 4:3, 20181009_144842.jpg)

File: c24f8a50ad89aab⋯.jpg (3.6 MB, 4608x3456, 4:3, 20181009_144801.jpg)

The knife i ordered came in, and while im happy enough with it given how much i payed, i must say, if you can afford it, go for himalayan imports instead. The steel KHHI used is fairly soft for what i would expect from a knife, though it does seem to be slightly harder along the edge, and the top grind along the spine i uneven. the sheath however, is fantastic. Good leather, and well fitted.

ca72b2  No.614806

The small knife that came with it is shocking though, it looks like it was just sharpened on a fine belt sander. The karda specifically.

0a655b  No.614819


Why is there no groove on the handle that prevents slipping like there is on most kukris?

c6a0b5  No.614822

File: fffbe8fffdeeae2⋯.jpg (227.6 KB, 1024x837, 1024:837, Wilkinson Sword Company Mk….jpg)

File: ffbc2e434f0f891⋯.jpg (763.66 KB, 3240x2160, 3:2, Keshar Lal Village Utility….jpg)

File: 56d0b52d74e5618⋯.jpg (93.94 KB, 800x532, 200:133, Mk 3 Plan.jpg)

File: 9e6ac07f3ebfedb⋯.jpg (59.99 KB, 816x612, 4:3, Crescent Moon Officer's Kh….jpg)

File: 207caf5f232c86b⋯.jpg (420.2 KB, 2686x1391, 2686:1391, Long Leaf.jpg)


Sorry to hear about the bad experience. Size of your knife reminds me of a KLVUK.


KHHI specializes in khukuris for tourists. They do non-traditional handles and unusual blade shapes.

c6a0b5  No.614823

File: 2fc1ec4a07d8b24⋯.jpg (216.47 KB, 1024x648, 128:81, Mk. 4 Khukuri Detail.jpg)

ca72b2  No.614827


I specifically went for that handle because i wanted to sand it back a bit further and do a leather wrap. They do a version of the same knife with the traditional handle as well.

ca72b2  No.614828


Now thats a fuckin nice kukri. When i can scrape a few extra dollars together ill try finding one of those. Im not unhappy with my current purchase by any means, i knew i wasnt going to get perfection for the price i payed, and it was always going to be a beater knife.

59557b  No.615070

File: 7225094e7e9f750⋯.png (2 MB, 1024x768, 4:3, ClipboardImage.png)

What kind of knife would be best for an all around outdoor knife that isn't too expensive? Right now I have Morakniv's "Pro S" in all of my family's 48 hour/bugout bags.

56012b  No.615071


Ontario RAT 7 gives breddy gud bang for your buck and offers a nice all-around knife for you.

e883f7  No.615088



I can attest that Ka-Bars are fucking wonderful knives

59557b  No.615191

File: 578ed9d14c8dc6c⋯.png (132.82 KB, 1443x657, 481:219, 1.PNG)


>breddy gud bang for your buck

>$80 for 1 knife

Yeah, that's a little out of my price range. Is there a different model I couldn't find or something?

c9453c  No.615193


Unless you have a clear budget then nobody will know what to suggest.

Outdoor knives are dangerous to cheap out on, though. Skirting the low-end of the price ranges gets you the possibility of cheap shit with very little thought or care put into them.

59557b  No.615194


>Unless you have a clear budget then nobody will know what to suggest.

good point, should have thought of that.

I'd say I'm not willing to pay more than $50 dollars a knife considering I'm going to need 4 of them. Hope that's not too cheap.

b198ad  No.615198

File: 32ecd245446ff49⋯.jpg (390.28 KB, 1600x754, 800:377, IMG_4596_3.jpg)


My bad, I see you said this is for bugout bags and not every day use. The Swedes make this thing called the Fire Knife, it's probably the lowest I'd go for a general-use fixed blade.

ce7ac3  No.615200

File: 74babaf621e9b03⋯.jpg (9.73 KB, 295x200, 59:40, 415yzs-AyTL._AC_SY200_.jpg)

My edc knife is the CRKT Homefront, and it has served me very well. Solid knife and good steel.

Only issue is how anyone who has ever held it sees the takedown lever and thinks that flipping it is how you close the knife. That gets annoying.

e327a0  No.615211


Thats a mora, just like the ones he already has.

Also the knife he already has is good enough for something like a 48h bugout bag.

Unless he plans to hang out for weeks in the woods and do heavy work, he isn't in the need for a different knife.

9f0a41  No.615214


Any good places that do custom knife making?

e67d18  No.615552

File: 2beb18fbdf1f546⋯.jpg (49.19 KB, 1000x667, 1000:667, Buck 379.jpg)

I need a good pocket knife for EDC and camping, but it'll be more for utility than defense. I want something that folds, and would prefer wood for the aesthetic. Problem is I know fuck all about knives besides the fact that my dad praises Benchmade and his dad praised Buck. Benchmade is way out of my price range (~$65) and the Buck knife I do have has a bit falling off it after going through the wash (granted it's one of their Chinese knives and I've never held one of their US made ones). It has a warranty, but I don't want to have to send my knife off for 4-6 weeks every time I forget to empty my pockets. Any suggestions for where to start looking?

Pick related, the cheap Chinese Buck I have now.

e688d4  No.615562


So I found an online retail store out of Finland that sold them and I just got it.


>Nice weight and size

>Good steel in the blade

>Nice feel in the hand

>Sharpens to a razors edge almost effortlessly (haven't used it yet to check edge retention)


>The guard isn't sealed to the tang so extra care must be taken that liquids from anything I cut won't go into the handle

>Pommel is riveted so you can't remove the handle for cleaning

>The handle is birch wood (soaks up dirt an moisture easily)

I am going to carefully fill the joint between the blade and the guard with epoxy and put linseed oil on the handle.

Over all I give the knife an 8 out of 10.

For the price it's an excellent buy.

It should be paired with a smaller knife as it's a bit big for some jobs.

If anyone else wants one, I got mine at http://lamnia.com. (out of Finland)

$127.23, free shipping, and I got it in four days.

e688d4  No.615564


My EDC is a Kershaw Skyline.

It's about $70 where ever I look.

It sharpens well and it's a nice over all.

c6a0b5  No.615731

File: d0a22b056153594⋯.jpg (170.67 KB, 800x600, 4:3, Randall 14 Attack.jpg)


Good luck finding one. You'll only ever be able to find repros of any old khuk lately, especially when they started making these to spec. The originals are collectors items. The Mk. 4 is a great example of a khukuri with its hollow forged belly, full tang, differential hardening, and simple construction, but so many makers ignore the subtleties of the full design and just copy the basic silhouette or profile. The BudK khukuri is an example of this.

Khukuris are great and everything when executed correctly, but rarely do I come across one that can do what it was originally designed for. Many khukuris in circulation are not quick or lively in hand, and they are too soft to hold an edge past a few chops due largely to poor smithing. Heavy and small, many leave something to be desired, which is why I typically advise people to go long when buying one.


Here's my question to echo Germany's sentiment at >>615211 before I start making recommendations: what is wrong with the Moras you currently have?


Take your pick. What's your price point and intended use? Some makers do certain styles better than others.


Someone else asked an EDC question with the same price point before and got the Spyderco Delica as an answer. Its a great answer and one I'm inclined to echo here, but with your requirements, you may need something a bit different.

Most makers have gone synthetic, so is the wood aesthetic a requirement? How do you feel about locking mechanisms in your knives? Not trying to be an asshole, it's just that I don't see a lot of slipjoints in the Year of Our Lord 2018.

Try BladeHQ, KnifeCenter, and USA Made Blade for a few places to start and apply filters to their inventory. Going with your dad's suggestion is going to leave you spending a lot more money than you planned, and going with your grandpa's suggestion is going to leave you with a knife that, while decent, is outclassed by others for the same price.


Where are you looking? I just found it on Amazon for $45.

c7c8d8  No.615772


Literally check into a local walmart every other week to see if their small gifts displays are up. Buck knives are a staple in those setups. There may ne some chink shit but other times you'll find some USA made ones and they're usually all classic style knives like stockmans, toothpick, congress, and canoe styles.

6ed513  No.615840


the only benefit Maxamet has over S90V is that it has more and harder alloying metals in its composition with roughly the same amount of carbon, and therefore is able to form larger and harder carbides. Maxamet is consequentially even brittler than S90V and harder to sharpen.

The basic issue with all these steels is carbide size and composition. The bigger and harder the carbides, the greater the potential edge retention but more brittle/delicate the edge, and the harder to sharpen.

By historical standards, S30V already has a gigantic amount of carbon and vanadium content. What I'm saying is that you won't see a meaningful difference in edge retention between it and m390 because the difference in composition is too marginal. The only way you're going to see a difference is in a controlled environment. Actually, the main visible difference would be m390's superior corrosion resistance because of the 20% chromium. But otherwise there's no meaningful difference because the margins are so small. You have to go up all the way to the S90V class to see a difference in "every day usage."

and m390 can't have superior toughness because it is by definition a harder and thus brittler steel, though marginally. I'd be surprised if it was any more or less tough than S30V. The data is so slim that it would come down to sharpening and tempering quality. The higher you go in carbon and alloying metal content, the brittler and less tough the steel because the carbides are growing.

bd47cc  No.615854

File: df0065074750339⋯.png (4.61 KB, 426x364, 213:182, df006507475033992e92421b72….png)

Chef's knives are usually what I concern myself with but lately I've been feeling the need to get myself a folding knife for EDC.

Are there any decent budget friendly folders /k/ would be willing to recommend? Looking for something with a drop point, mid sized and with a decent steel (>56HRC) that isn't furnished in gaudy bullshit.

6ed513  No.615934



$25 for axis lock, and their 4116 is a nice low-alloy steel, I have one of their kitchen knives in it. Easy to sharpen, it's not under tempered like most budget knives, and has good corrosion resistance.

IMO Cold Steel and Esee have the best value knives in the market at the moment.

1f7360  No.616061

File: 8bf8a7c7aa7f229⋯.png (92.57 KB, 474x440, 237:220, ClipboardImage.png)


>what is wrong with the Moras you currently have?

Absolutely nothing, but I'm a bit neurotic when it comes to prepping. So if there's a better option that's also relatively cheap, then I'd like to hear about it. I also just straight up like knives, always have. Used to have a collection when I was a kid, but had to sell them off to help pay some medical bills.


>need to get myself a folding knife for EDC.

If you want a budget friendly folder, then the Kudu but Cold steel isn't that bad, and you get a pretty big bang for your buck. Don't get me wrong, it's FAR from perfect, but as far as budge knives go, you could do a lot worse.

Although your choices for non-shit budget knives go up when you allow for non-folders as well.


6960a7  No.616087

File: d3728fcad09f548⋯.png (19.72 KB, 493x466, 493:466, intredasting.png)



Ended up ordering an EKA Swede 10. Blade profile isn't quite what I was looking for but WOOD IS GOOD and the business end is made of 12c27 steel which has quite excellent edge retention (really excellent for the $30 I paid for it) and being as I was able to buy it from a local shop I can expect delivery in a couple days.

77b3c2  No.616248


This is me. Something Steven Seagal would use in his movies.

c6a0b5  No.616582

File: 713a75bd9ac64ba⋯.jpg (43.95 KB, 800x400, 2:1, Edge Retention Index.jpg)

File: c1f3db45dc99556⋯.jpg (44.43 KB, 800x358, 400:179, Hardness Index.jpg)

File: a7ea0c164d22c0e⋯.jpg (36.99 KB, 800x369, 800:369, Wear Resistance Index.jpg)

File: aaad345777efd75⋯.jpg (34.16 KB, 774x442, 387:221, Mad Dog Destroyer.jpg)

File: 9e6ac07f3ebfedb⋯.jpg (59.99 KB, 816x612, 4:3, Crescent Moon Officer's Kh….jpg)


I like this response very much. Sorry for coming off like a dick earlier.

While most of what I posted hinges off of personal experience and general consensus, talking about what "some people think" is not a source. So I went and dug up a few. The concepts of carbides and the data sheets that follow aren't lost on me – carbide tearout can be a real bitch to the unseasoned working on high-carbide steels – and I did indeed find material supporting a slight difference between M390 and S30V with the superiority leaning towards M390, but this is as you said: controlled. A layman may well not know the difference.

By the way, do you watch anything from Michael Christy on YouTube? I've found his sharpening videos to be pretty intriguing as far as alloy tests go. There are knife reviews, sure, but also cut tests between steels like S90V and 204P. A Mad Dog for your trouble.

0308fe  No.616586


>Take your pick. What's your price point and intended use? Some makers do certain styles better than others.

A kabar style of knife inspired by Von Tempsky in New Zealand.

0308fe  No.616588


Also price is about 400 - 600.

422caa  No.616744

File: 7f8bb09778f2083⋯.png (123.24 KB, 330x346, 165:173, Trump sip.png)


I'm good for fixed blades, thanks.

e67d18  No.617172

File: 8708c5d5682a281⋯.jpg (5.47 MB, 4656x3492, 4:3, 20181016_203438.jpg)

File: 0a0e194e902d5c6⋯.jpg (5.56 MB, 4656x3492, 4:3, 20181016_203429.jpg)

Rate my gift, /k/. I don't know shit about knives but this sure feels nice to hold.

e67d18  No.617173

File: 0b05a2937441da2⋯.jpg (4.64 MB, 4656x3492, 4:3, 20181016_203705.jpg)


When stood on its side, it looks like a small, knife-headed animal, which I find amusing.

6ed513  No.617188


yeah, I took notice of the guy back when I was really into Spyderco knives, that's how I got interested in the whole steel debate. In 2013 Spyderco was beginning to crank out a bunch of different steels, and I wanted to understand what was going on.

Then Spyderco started installing price floors in 2016 and 2017, and I got jaded and sold all my Spyderco knives because that really pissed me off. I then came around to the conclusion that the whole steel rat-race Spyderco started was just another marketing ploy. I also think Spyderco is trying to change the industry to steel as a focus because they expect locks and blade size to be banned in the near future, but that's just my hunch. In the meantime however the steel rat-race is definitely a marketing ploy.

I'm grateful to Spyderco for the steel interest in one respect because it forced other companies like Cold Steel and others to take steel seriously, which inevitably improved their products. On the other hand, I'm just really tired of sharpening these high-carbide steels and wouldn't mind a return to Earth. However, one reason why companies besides Spyderco are taking steel seriously is because they're trying to keep pace with Spyderco by using the same super expensive CPM steels and such, and thus they must pay extra attention to tempering integrity because of the cost of this new investment. If they move back to lower-carbide, and cheaper steels, what's stopping them from just shitting out more shitty tempering blades because they can afford it? That's the conundrum.

So at the end of the day, I prefer well tempered CTS XHP or S30V to shittily tempered 420HC or 1095.

375708  No.617257

File: fbe1cc14ff5b2f8⋯.jpg (11.58 KB, 538x538, 1:1, 3xxVYIK.jpg)

>When some survivalfag or oldfag tries to hate on modern stainless steels thinking they're the same as grandaddy's 440c

375708  No.617259

Where can I get a mora-esque knife in a modern steel with a sharpening choil. Preferably a little thinner than most moras with a shallower grind. Maybe .100/2.5mm stock?

6ed513  No.617393


the main difference is the introduction of vanadium and niobium metals as alloying agents, and corresponding increases in carbon content. The result is larger and very hard carbides. The selling point is that the CPM process would neutralize the corresponding increase in brittleness, but that hasn't really occurred in knives given the peculiarity of edge apex. These modern stainless steels are designed primarily for industrial applications where sheer wear resistance is desired, not knives. S30V was the attempt to transition some of that modern thinking into the knife world, whereas S110V for example was intended to be purely an industrial steel and was then retconned back into the knife world because marketing.

440C has very large carbides and a good deal of carbon, it has a bout 1.1-1.2% carbon and 18% chromium. The notion that 440c sucks because it's old is bunco.

I prefer high-chromium, high-carbon, non or low vanadium steels like 440c, CTS-XHP, or D2 because IMO the vanadium carbide is just as brittle as the chromium when placed into the physical setting of a knife edge, and carbide tear-out with vanadium knives is severe without utilizing diamond abrasives. The carbide tear out occurs because the vanadium is harder than the abrasive you're using to sharpen the knife, so the abrasive cuts out all the iron surrounding the carbides, weakening the structure, and then your edge collapses when you do your first cuts. With chromium steels like 440C and XHP, you cut the carbides as well, so carbide tear out isn't really an issue unless you go with a ridiculously high chromium carbide steel like ZDP-189, then the sheer amount of carbide begins introducing the same issue. Michael Christy has also experienced carbide tear out in the ultra high carbon, high vanadium and niobium steels like S110V even when using advanced abrasives like diamond paste for his stropping.

So at the end of the day, if you want to use vanadium/niobium knives and unlock the full potential of their wear resistance, you have to use diamond plates and then diamond paste strops since DMT diamond plates have unique problems inherent in the way they process the diamond crystals used to populate the plate abrasives. Basically the diamond is so hard that the crushing and distribution of the diamond in preparation of laying them onto the plates begins to collapse at higher grits (starts at their extra-fine stone/plate) and is called "grit contamination." The diamond is so hard that at that grit/micron level, some of the diamond doesn't fully crush into the designed level, so you'll have sporadic big chunks of diamond grit on the plate interspersed with the advertised grit level, and until you grind those out all the way your edge will have microscopic serrations to the point of visible damage under a microscope and which can negatively affect edge retention. I've tried the extra-extra-fine DMT stone before new from the factory, and I did a first pass on the plate with a newly sharpened knife and my blade's edge was literally getting stick just trying to make a pass over the stone, it was ramming into the big chunks of diamond and I could feel and hear them popping off the stone. 3 hours of pure passing and I couldn't get the contaminated grit out. That's why Christy just goes straight to the diamond paste after his medium and fine diamond stones, I'm not sure if he is utilizing ceramics these days.

but yeah, way way more care and money and time is required to fully utilize those steels, and even then there's always the risk of chipping the edge out because the steel is so brittle. That's been a major problem with Maxamet. I just say fuck it and stay with the high chromium steels, which still give generous amounts of edge retention but without the bullshit.

366fff  No.617421


I'm not implying that 440c sucks, I'm implying that they're implying that 440c sucks. The average survivalfag or oldfag has no concept of metallurgy and probably have no idea what vanadium or tungsten even does in a steel or if anyone adds it to steel at all. All they listen to is the age old wisdom of "A high carbon steel is best because the rest are brittle." usually referring to 1095 or 1080 or somesuch. As has been stated many times 440c can be an excellent knife steel given the right heat treatment, the issue usually comes around with the unfortunate connotations 440c has gathered over the years as a shitty chinese knife steel.

4ea43f  No.617431


Stainless steel is less malleable, this is never going to change. It makes it harder to sharpen, harder to repair, and easier to break.

4ea43f  No.617436


>high carbon steel is best

Even that is too brittle. Anyone talking about knife blades and spouting off about any one grade of steel being best is an idiot.

The best (and really only) way to do a knife is to use mild steel, then carburize for wear resistance, and maybe plate it for rust resistance. Making the entire blade of a solid block of any steel is stupid.

366fff  No.617437


The difference is so incredibly minor that it's irrelevant. There have been countless examples of people using stainless steel knives for things that knives should not ever be used for. Like pounding it into a log and using it as a step. A well tempered stainless steel knife will be plenty tough while having higher edge retention and a higher viability in areas with large amounts of saltwater. The only reason anyone should use..say..1095 over a well tempered s30V or 440c or D2 is because of price.

6ed513  No.617438




stainless steels can be hard or soft, it just depends on how much carbon is in the alloy.

Same with "carbon" steels, which are just non-stainless. They can have little or a lot of carbon, and be soft or hard

"carbon steel" is just a marketing phrase, all steel has carbon. What determines hardness is how much carbon and how much and how many alloying metals are in the steel.

366fff  No.617444


I know, I'm using these terms because these terms are what the people I'm referring to use anon. To them there is no distinction between different stainless steels. They are all brittle, while all high carbon steels are tougher. And by "high carbon" they mean steels such as 1080 and 1095 as I mentioned before. The point is common steels that are cited to be superior for survival usage such as 1095 and 1080 are not so much better or in many cases better at all for the purpose of survival than stainless steels.eeeeeeeeeeeeeee

56012b  No.617458


>Stainless steel is less malleable

I'm not super knowledgeable on steels and metallurgy, but I even I know that's bullshit. In a lot of industries (gun barrels being the familiar one), 400-grade stainless steels are used specifically because they are softer and easier to machine.



Any of you anons care to give a brief run-down of the common steels used in knifemaking, and their advantages/disadvantages? I know 1095 is used a lot because it's cheap and holds an edge well, that's about it.

4ea43f  No.617465


>specifically because they are softer and easier to machine.

Than high carbon steels which would otherwise have to be used. It's a relative softness, not overall.


>stainless steels can be hard or soft, it just depends on how much carbon is in the alloy.

Can a stainless steel be as soft as mild steel with carbon percentage under 0.1%?

61a7f5  No.617496


Are you planning to make knives yourself? If so stick to 1095, O1, 1080, etc because highly alloyed steels are often hard if not impossible to properly heat treat at home. So unless you want to send your knives out to be heat treated for like $20 a pop (Which is a very real option!) then stick with the basics. Plus it'll be a good and cheap way to start.

56012b  No.617505


>Are you planning to make knives yourself?

Oh no, not really equipped to do that. Interested mostly as a consumer, and I'm curious as to the metallurgical theory that determines what makes a steel "good" or "bad" for knives.

61a7f5  No.617519

6ed513  No.617520


>it's cheap and holds an edge well

1095 is used a lot mostly because it's cheap. Esee however uses it also because they feel like they can get a good mixture of edge strength and toughness at the 56 RC level. Ka-bar now does the same thing with 1095 in their Becker knives. The edge retention should be OK, 1095 is easy to grind and has very little carbide. From a survivalist perspective, these are desirable qualities; you want something that withstands impacts well and is easy to fix. Ultimately Esee could just as well have used 5160 which would I think be a better choice because 5160 has some degree of corrosion resistance and tempers well in the mid-upper 50's with outstanding toughness. Esee and Ka-bar likely still use 1095 simply because it has brand recognition. However, the much higher carbon content of 1095 allows it to be potentially hardened to a much higher rockwell level than 5160, to the mid-high 60's, and that kind of 1095 has much better edge retention than the survivalist temper. Joe Calton does that kind of 1095.

but the main knife steels used these day are VG-10, S30V, AUS-8. Spyderco has quite a few steels in rotation. Again, the main difference is carbon and carbide content. zknives.com has the data charts for all the different steels out there.


I think the only stainless steels with less than .1% carbon are nitrogen based steels. These are relatively "soft" steels. But most mainstream stainless has at least .4% carbon. Carbides begin forming at around .6% and begin to grow exponentially after .8% carbon. 420j2 for example is a pretty soft stainless steel. However, whether or not the steel is "soft" after production is totally dependent on a company's tempering methods. Kershaw for example has chronically under-hardened steel, whereas Spyderco and Cold Steel have been pushing pretty high hardness tempering in their folders as of late, Cold Steel actually just started doing this three years ago when they introduced CTS-XHP and CTS-BD1 into their lineup after market pressure from Spyderco. I'm fairly confident that a Kershaw leek I own has perhaps a 50 rockwell hardness, so soft is it. Horrible edge retention though, but 14c28 is actually a proper knife steel, Kershaw just tempers it on the cheap because shekels.

ede45a  No.617866


Get a fucking life

ede45a  No.617867



Nah I'm just kidding anon nice collection

56012b  No.619756

File: 6d7edaabc6b3d2e⋯.png (756 KB, 1280x1120, 8:7, ClipboardImage.png)

Multitools are knives, right? Just picked myself up a Swisstool after some chucklefuck nigger stole my Swisschamp out of the mail.

c6a0b5  No.619819

File: 6ec62c8d482ed92⋯.jpg (30.36 KB, 800x533, 800:533, Les George X-Acto.jpg)

File: c2cfdb131247f55⋯.jpg (107.23 KB, 600x450, 4:3, MSC SMF Wharny.jpg)

File: d629bedf748e943⋯.jpg (92.41 KB, 1024x518, 512:259, Olamic Wayfarer 247 Drop.JPG)

File: 454c0033aff5f0a⋯.jpg (62.21 KB, 878x224, 439:112, Randall Thorp Bowie.jpg)

I fucking hate that. There are tons of people out there who have lost their blades because of some mail issue. Either someone stole a package, or the carrier themselves decided to pull a fast one. Sad.

a2ad71  No.621746


I'd say no, but the field of interest is basically the same. That thing looks damn capable.

There's something so appealing about a tool that can do many things in one, and it's not just limited to pocket tools.

96d496  No.621775

Ok OP here's one for you. I'm getting into diving and snorkeling and I sure as fuck ain't getting into the water without a knife that can't saw through an octopus tentacle or some shit. Need something small, 2-3 inch blade, and fixed. What would you recommend?

a2ad71  No.621808

4b4989  No.622283

By the way, does anyone know anything about the special snowflake stainless that Victorinox uses for their knives, and how it compares to the other ones on the market?

c220d1  No.623366

File: 3786cc595971c38⋯.jpg (35.15 KB, 800x530, 80:53, apachefalcon.jpg)

Apache Falcon. Best knife I've ever handled. Made by a tactical genius.

6b8f1f  No.623440


Spyderco Ark. The blade is H1, a nitrogen-based steel, so it literally won't rust.


Similar to 420HC. Not complete shit but otherwise unremarkable.

c23007  No.624151


I know shaptons are fairly nice stones, as a beginner with whetstones should I buy this stone or a cheaper lower grit stone?

00d8d3  No.626650

Are A&R Zlatoust knives good? I like some of their designs and the alloy they use is allegedly like 440C but with slavmagic and titanium added.

3e9a86  No.626670

File: 84838909c9c5fad⋯.jpg (53.64 KB, 854x479, 854:479, Taipan Extreme Survival.jpg)

Just picked this bad boy up after getting my category B knife license.

c6a0b5  No.626686

File: 38c5d46806af7a1⋯.jpg (72.81 KB, 550x412, 275:206, Spyderco Delica ZDP-189.jpg)

File: 1d0d240e3de4dbe⋯.jpeg (232.97 KB, 1024x768, 4:3, Spyderco Stretch ZDP-189.jpeg)

ZDP-189 was mentioned before, so I want to post a couple of Spydies featuring it. I think Spyderco runs them at a Rockwell of 64, but I'd love it if they ran a sprint run of their Para 3 in ZDP. The Para 3 has been a stellar carry piece so far.

Anyway, here's a Delica and a Stretch. I was pretty impressed with the ease at which TheApostleP was able to Spydie-flick the Stretch open despite being a backlock. I'm not terribly keen on backlocks as a rule; it's pretty dated tech compared to newer, more svelte innovations, and hails from a time when two-handed opening was the norm. I will concede, though, that it's a strong lock and great for innawoods shit.

918dc2  No.627265


the spyderco endura 4 i bought about a year ago was incredibly chippy and it completely turned me off of the steel, although im not sure if that was because the steel is usually that brittle or if the nips gave it a bad heat treat

918dc2  No.627268


i forgot to mention it was in zdp189

a2ad71  No.627353


I thought category B only allowed blades of under 2 inches? Maybe it's different in australia but that's certainly the case here. Those serrations are definitely a big no no if you only have a category B in the UK.

623cf8  No.627393

File: 0c35df47846cb67⋯.jpg (265.66 KB, 1080x1920, 9:16, IMG_20181123_171444.jpg)

Left: my everyday carry, it's sharp on both sides but that doesn't show well in the pic. It's a switchblade but it's technically spring assisted for international shipping purposes because it uses a switch and not a button (ironic)

Center: literally an inheritance from my Grandpa, as stereotypical as it gets

Right: does indeed have the Constitution of the US engraved into the blade, for when I have a freedom boner. Spring assisted.

49f791  No.627476


Whoa, really? What caused the blade failure, if you don't mind my asking?

be2e38  No.632625

File: 05c2eacd60d2940⋯.jpg (275.95 KB, 1820x1026, 910:513, eickhorn.jpg)

File: d5349bb1ca14014⋯.jpg (87.37 KB, 550x412, 275:206, bk7.1.jpg)

Is the Wolverine GEK an acceptable survival knife? I think it uses 440A steel.

Initially the BK7 drew my interest but it's quite expensive here.

9c72e8  No.632626


What do you want out of your survival knife? Eickhorn are mostly focused on tactical usage and not really for bushcraft or hunting.

20d630  No.632641


Yeah, the focus is on bushcraft but it should be a capable allrounder.

True, but this one’s designed as ‘German Expedition Knife’ despite the KM2000 grip.

The GEK Wolverine seems quite similar to the BK7 regarding size, weight and blade geometry.

I’d just get the Becker since it’s proven but it’s twice as expensive here as in the US, around 120€ whereas the Eickhorn is available for 75.

Pros for the 440A is that it’s less prone to rust but it’s also less strong, although I don’t know how much of a concern that is at 4,7mm thickness.

9c72e8  No.632870


Ah, in the US eickhorn is very expensive. Although I would say reconsider still because the grip and blade shape aren't really what you want for carving at all, it's really impractical for that which is why knives like the bk or esee don't have hand guards at all. It's your choice but I would say look into lighter class knives even in the US I still wouldn't get an esee or bk because I personally just don't find the design that useful, jack of all trades master of none etc.

48343a  No.633712

File: 82616375b5e24df⋯.jpeg (6.11 KB, 276x183, 92:61, Thinker.jpeg)

i need something good for self defence

and something that is not going to raise any eyebrows in ZOG occupied Spain

i dont wanna go to my local gunstore ask for a knife and then get asked for a licence or some shit

a2ad71  No.636015


you dont need a licence to buy knives lad

just need to be over 18 and maybe have proof of ID

good luck

cedcfa  No.637130


Looking for a new daily driver. Don't really want to spend more than 100-150. Would like something durable, not liner locked or frame locked, and comparable to my Benchmade 940 Osborne. I love the blade style because of huge cutting edge. And the silver blade and green handles make it not too edgy and can be pulled out in front of anybody without people getting worried. Spydercos are aggressive looking and big. Basically looking for a decent gentlemen's folder in the 2.6-3.5 range that has a satin blade that won't rust within 2 weeks like everything else. I mind losing my Osborne and I would preferably like to buy a moderate knife I wouldn't mind losing just because at this point my Osborne has served me for almost 10 years and it's almost an heirloom at this point

9653b8  No.637510

You got any tips for sharpening? I think I do an ok job but any help is appreciated

72302e  No.638958


Sic semper tyrannis fellow demon frog.

5e215d  No.638959


>license for a knife

If you took a butter knife and sharpened it, would you get arrested for having unregistered weaponry?

8e5877  No.638980


For that price point, I'd say one of the Benchmade axis-lock models would be your speed. The (mini) Boost and (mini) Barrage are my favorite models in that category but you could always look through Benchmade's website, apply some filters, and pick the one you like.

a8165a  No.639013

File: 6321797bff8e33b⋯.jpg (67.89 KB, 711x800, 711:800, emerson-folder-mini-cqc-m-….jpg)

File: 125c792195898f2⋯.jpg (3.31 MB, 5488x3088, 343:193, P_20190108_172337_vHDR_Aut….jpg)

File: b6254de4d284515⋯.jpg (3.3 MB, 5488x3088, 343:193, P_20190108_172414_vHDR_Aut….jpg)

So my girlfriend got this knife over Christmas, and it looks like an unfinished Emerson Mini CQC-15. There's no branding anywhere and there are some flats in the blade that should be polished but aren't. There's a blemish on the metal of the blade that makes me wonder if a shop employee swiped it out of the reject bin and made themselves a knife. How the person that gave it to her came by it I don't think I'll ever know.

The consensus seems to be that Emersons are pretty shit (assuming this is actually a real if unmarked Emerson) but it feels solid enough. The blade is pretty fucking sharp, I like the wave feature and the handle fits my hand pretty nicely. There was a lot of tuning required to actually get the detent bar to do its job and not let the blade swing right open with the lightest of flicks, and up until a few days ago the liner lock was really sticky.

If nothing else it's a free beater.

b5e764  No.639038


Yes a free $200 bester

11462f  No.639988

File: 27d145136a955ed⋯.jpeg (18.31 KB, 468x431, 468:431, 6e1a7c75f3bacd022f5e7c604….jpeg)

>tfw push button knifes are extremely versatile and convenient

>tfw retarded laws mean I can't EDC the ones I have despite the fact they're the perfect knife for everyday shit

>tfw have to settle for shitty imitations of the real deal

6d4ef8  No.640021

How do you feel about double-edged knives for combat? It seems obvious to me that two edges > one edge, so I was considering getting a cheap fixed-blade dagger for self-defense, but I know very little about them. Any drawbacks or other considerations?

b8906e  No.640045

File: c736480549f9692⋯.jpg (165.45 KB, 683x1024, 683:1024, 14154077058_548fa4782a_b.jpg)


I respect the bark river. The sent me a nice bravo Strike force related to pic related. Mine has mosaic rivets, though. It's held up nicely over the years through a lot of mountaineering. couldn't recommend the company enough.

6b8f1f  No.640048


I'd bet it's a chinkshit counterfeit.

10b5f4  No.640143

File: 0ff2bad53392e81⋯.jpg (65.47 KB, 800x514, 400:257, CropperCapture4.jpg)

File: f5b3b57c925443f⋯.jpg (27.87 KB, 600x400, 3:2, dbccf649b0425c9ab1d86a222c….jpg)

File: d8f63944a873ca3⋯.jpg (95.48 KB, 1280x720, 16:9, maxresdefault (1).jpg)

File: 66ebd862c6a6b95⋯.jpg (182.64 KB, 1500x1000, 3:2, SPFB25PSBK_LS1R.jpg)

File: c3d2aede921218f⋯.jpg (92.69 KB, 640x612, 160:153, waspcase.jpg)

10b5f4  No.640679

File: 3a0309ede450a32⋯.gif (29.36 KB, 487x275, 487:275, tumblr_mgt9t4URvO1r83dr2o1….gif)

File: 7cf520943bd1fb2⋯.jpg (209.77 KB, 1600x1142, 800:571, maxresdefault1.jpg)

File: a49289bb29a7db8⋯.jpg (43.28 KB, 500x375, 4:3, s_640x_480-tm-tfb-500x375.jpg)

File: 282054050bba7fe⋯.jpg (94.84 KB, 960x960, 1:1, DSoLpCBW0AA6vUR.jpg)

File: 0165c89d9d4dab7⋯.jpeg (150.64 KB, 1024x768, 4:3, 0003839_randall-model-14-….jpeg)

10b5f4  No.640689

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

a64b69  No.645245

If you think there is any such thing as a singular all-purpose knife, you are wrong.

Sure, you can get by with one, but getting by is not what I consider to be good enough.

What you NEED is one good serrated knife, one good non-serrated knife, and a shitload of cheap Chinese knives of both types for shit you don't want to ruin your good knives on.

Since OP is using the phrase "knife-related martial arts", I will end my input on this thread here, because he is obviously a teen from cuckchan.

6debf9  No.645585

Tell me some tacticool folders for edc. Looking for fullsize/large but not too chunky and heavy.

Is CRKT M series good? I want to try a Benchmade or Coldsteel but not sure which.

6618ed  No.645622


I have the large folder w/tanto blade.

I am quite happy with it.

Fast, slick, sharp well made.

It cost me $119.00 + tax (got 15% off)

56012b  No.645645


Depends what your budget is and what you want to do. I'm a big fan of Benchmade knives because of the Axis lock–it's both more secure than a liner/frame lock, and allows me to close the blade without sticking my fingers in the path of travel. Dunno too much about the M-series, but the designs look so hyperbolically tacticool that I'm turned off on them on that alone.

ca6a26  No.646040

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

And now for something different

d1cfb3  No.646053

Anyone have experience with both the AXIS lock and Spyderco's captive ball bearing? They seem like very similar systems, would be nice to know how they measure up in practice.

4adf0d  No.646946

It is so hard to find a decent blade that doesnt have a plastic or rubber grip. Might as well be a dildo.

56012b  No.646954


Aluminum seems to be getting popular with a lot of the high-end makers.

b5e764  No.646998


Nothing wrong with decent quality g10 or similar.

921ca5  No.647069

File: 99505a1af11d96f⋯.png (372.56 KB, 700x796, 175:199, ughFuck.png)


>Not getting it in the army paratrooper version

Why even live anon?

00b3f7  No.651699


>that can cut rope quickly in case I fuck up and need to drop something.

Just work on your knotwork and make a knot that easily releases while holding strong. Stop wasting rope.

6c8645  No.652403

What machete would you recommend for trimming down bushes in the yard?

9cc0dc  No.652519

File: f293c4385cf8d37⋯.jpg (126.43 KB, 1000x627, 1000:627, Vietnam Machete M14 Rifle.jpg)


>What machete would you recommend for trimming down bushes in the yard?

Can't go wrong with the Mil spec Ontario made ones.

56012b  No.652675

Alright. The locking mechanism on one of my knives was a bit too stiff for my taste, so I took the knife apart, cut half a coil off the spring, and put it back together. Now the lock is great, but I've got a bit of blade play I'd like to get rid off. Did I just not tighten the axle enough (using an el cheapo bit drive, good set is in the mail), or is there something else that could be causing the issue?

5c4a1b  No.653207

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

Some anti-knife methods with an umbrella.

cc24ed  No.653764

File: 744b0e3ec271e88⋯.jpg (969.9 KB, 1920x1080, 16:9, knives.jpg.JPG)

56012b  No.654564

File: d6b123a32f58656⋯.png (1.1 MB, 1124x844, 281:211, ClipboardImage.png)

File: 9945f5fbede74dd⋯.png (1.62 MB, 1125x2000, 9:16, ClipboardImage.png)


These things? Keep in mind they are a little dated, prices no longer match up quite right and there have been new models released.

00d8d3  No.656225

File: 6ca7fc446124a12⋯.jpg (23.7 KB, 1000x1000, 1:1, R755_UHC_Kokinveitsi_ml.jpg)

File: e413623ac5973dc⋯.jpg (21.34 KB, 1000x1000, 1:1, R710_Iso_japanilainen_koki….jpg)

ahoy /k/angs

Anyone have experience with Roselli, marttiini, or Fallkniven?

Looking to buy kitchen cutlery of all things from them. Leaning towards Roselli in particular because their UHC steel appears to be really fucking hard and well made for the price with a 5 year warranty. Is there anything special to a carbon steel knife beyond drying it, using the proper stone/steel, and occasionally oiling it or is that it?

29c70a  No.661073

YouTube embed. Click thumbnail to play.

Styrofoam knife time

3c33a8  No.661103

File: 1be4189bc1f3512⋯.jpg (78.43 KB, 1500x1500, 1:1, download.jpg)

I'm looking for something that will do fine in a self-defense situation but at the same time not get me in jail if I get searched. I expect europoor anons will have better recommendations for this. I was thinking of just carrying a usual multitool but I'm not sure if that's exactly good for attacking.

6325c1  No.661110


Your thinking is in the right place. But you don't need a blade to defend yourself with a multi tool. Get something that you can easily and safely grip while closed. Something good and long is better. And use it in a hammer blow motion with a bit of it protruding from your hand. No need to fiddle with opening, just grip and hammer it into a part of the body with bone not covered by too much muscle. Don't punch, hammer.

1148b5  No.661228

File: dd654791c70aa04⋯.png (35.63 KB, 416x277, 416:277, ClipboardImage.png)

https://www.eickhorn-solingen.de/Eickhorn-Pacific-Stinger Its blade length is still legal in Germany and the price is quite good. Since the blade is thick, the edge does not cut well, but it's sturdy. The tip is sharp, so it's perfect for stabbing. Also has a fancy sheath. I have it with me wherever I go.

b5e764  No.662278


Tramontina is the best Ontario has shit handles.

7adc3a  No.662336


>occasionally oiling


The blade should be covered in grease at all times. Reapply after each time you wash them with soap.

ba58ef  No.662338

File: cca662b2426c193⋯.jpg (8.88 KB, 218x231, 218:231, 1553726812887.jpg)

Aa you can see from my flag, I don't live in the US. I need a boot knife. Something around 4 inches designed for combat. I liked a Smith & Wesson model. I can't pay more than $30 for the actual knife. Shipping isn't a problem, since I can redirect the package and have it for around $10.

00d8d3  No.662473


Any preference for what kind of grease/oil? Will it still patina or stay the factory finish if oiled after every use?

b3cdc7  No.662786

File: 4b95a08b781ba56⋯.jpg (2.53 MB, 3120x4160, 3:4, IMG20190330141409.jpg)

new addition. (spyderco byrd robin 2) intentionally got something that can fit in my palm.

aea447  No.662825

File: 58a6ce5ec68dcee⋯.png (572.88 KB, 708x516, 59:43, keepsgetting.png)


I fucking burst out loud laughing holy shit

Man or woman, that hand should only belong removed from a body, in a garbage beg behind some gay nightclub.

Use your spyderco to fix that problem

f8fe78  No.662826


scrapyard knives aren't over priced, unless you don't value your time in how often you have to re-hone and re-sharpen your knife

f8fe78  No.662829



hands smell like shit after minor use

>Dollar store Kitchen knives

nothing more dangererous then a dull knife, and that shit goes dull after each use. fuck off with your boomer logic.

f8fe78  No.662830


this, or just carry a screwdriver like the niggers in NYC do.

3c1c12  No.662834

File: b8e1fe504cead36⋯.jpg (167.67 KB, 1200x1200, 1:1, kill urself my man.jpg)

f72d36  No.662914


Been wondering qbout these, anyone here have one? Do you like it?

4f3d9b  No.663596

File: 5f1bf4a4c2d60af⋯.jpg (155.7 KB, 558x1024, 279:512, 8225837656_e32b935475_b.jpg)

Hiya nuggets.

Got myself a (((Lansky))) Diamond 3 hone system, plus additional 1000 grit stone for better polishing. Tried to fix our cheap Ikea kitchen knife, and it was average (I didn't put a lot of effort into it). Tried to regrind my custom made huntah knoife to a thinner edge (25 degrees or so, the knoife was probably pre-ground at 120 grit belt with an angle of 40-45 degrees or so by the looks of it - steel is crmov with the numbers I don't remember, hardened to 58-60 internets) and it resulted in a better edge (however I feel that probably somewhere closer to the grip, the knife was not properly reground which I will correct at some point), but still nowhere near razor sharpness.

Would appreciate tips on the technique. What I did is used the coarse stone as file with filing back and forth motions to form a bevel, then ground a little with medium stone, both file-like and sweeping motions, and for the 600 grit diamond stone, I was only doing some sweeping motions inwards and outwards. Polished a little with 1000 stone in the end, but the edge still looks amateurish. Cutting test consisted of one slicing motion on a somewhat dried bread slice which it went through rather effortlesly, but for 100 bucks for the whole set I expected it to at least cut into one layer of reality fabric, and a toy tank steel tread.

I know the system is rather retard proof, still, for a better result I'd like to not acquire a shitty and incorrect way of sharpening.

I would imagine that 1000 grit is not fine enough, but I feel little to no need to go for a better edge. I also have a bar of chinese green compound, which I was advised to just put on a thick cardboard and use it as a stropping device - would also appreciate confirming / disproving the validity of this advice.

And the final question: the edge has been ground a little bit on the backside, but was overpolished to be extremely round and to not aid in piercing in any way - would I benefit from sharpening it for at least 2-3cm?

Thanks in advance.

d949c0  No.663776


So you live in Western Australia (Perth?) and use a VPN via Germany, and have a recent record of a Spyderco on your credit card. If that wasn't enough to dox you it is then photographing your tattoos certainly is.

Learn OPSEC. or live innawoods away from Mongolian finger painting forums and minecraft discussions.

Nice knife and phone https://www.gsmarena.com/oppo_a57-8468.php#australia by the way.

131ab7  No.663781

I have an Izula II, Spyderco Para3, CRKT Folts Minimalist, and a Spyderco ARK. I was thinking of getting one more knife with a longer blade for camping and hikes, but I can't seem to make a good decision.

My knife enthusiast friend recommended an ESEE 3 or 4, but he's also extremely loyal to that brand so I wanted a second opinion. Anyone have any suggestions?

56012b  No.663785


How long is "longer"? Is an ESEE 3 or 4 as long as you want to go, or would you like to go up for something more like the Becker BK-7?

131ab7  No.663788


I think the BK7 might be too long for me. Looks rather nice though.

The highest I'd be willing to go and still feel confident with would probably be around an ESEE 5, let's say up to 5.5 inches? Something that is still wieldy for carving and cutting, but can take more punishment. I only started getting into knives a couple years ago so I'd say I still have plenty to learn. I'm open to new ideas if you have any.

b0eae0  No.664068


Sharpening anything boils down to creating a clean apex and optionally micro-beveling. Most never get a clean apex.

In good light look down on the edge. If you see a light line the continue sharpening until you don't. Use a couple of high passes to remove any burr then micro-bevel or move up a grit size.

56012b  No.664105


If you're not going to be doing batoning or other heavy-duty chopping, that's probably more than enough blade length. You mention carving and slicing rather than point work, so I think you'll be best served by a drop-point knife with a nice big belly, rather than a clip point. The ESEE 5 looks good for that, but you could also look at the Ontario RAT 5. Very similar knives, with same blade length, micarta scales, 1095 steel, and I believe both come with a kydex sheath (you might need to check that). Difference is that the Ontario has a full-flat grind, which will give you a more gentle angle that's better for slicing, while the ESEE has a saber grind. The saber grind has a beefier spine that makes it stronger, but since the grind starts closer to the blade, the angle is much sharper, which means it isn't quite as good for slicing. Whichever one is more price-competitive seems to change from one month to the next, so if budget is a concern be sure to shop around a little for both–and remember, if you see a price that's a lot lower, double check to see if it comes with all the same accessories.

a6e22a  No.664121


Take into consideration the blade thickness. Like carrying a sharpened pry bar around. Have a BK2, but almost never use it because of the weight and poor slicing. Easy for me to take hatchet and small knife to do both tasks efficiently. Same with the esee 5 as I think it's 1/4 inch thick. Just ordered the laser strike, but the bk16 is similar enough.

631693  No.664307



Appreciate the advice. I didn't even think to factor in blade thickness. Definitely important for heavier jobs.

Considering everything you've both told me, I think my main options are the ESEE 5, RAT 5, or maybe the Fallkniven F1/S1 if I manage my budget appropriately. The ESEE is the thickest, but there's something about the Fallkniven knives that draws me to them. There are variants with a black coating, but they're VG10 steel anyway so it seems pretty redundant aside from looks. Might go that route, but the black will obviously wear down over time in that case.

I'd rather stick to moderate work instead of chopping and hacking at something. My PM3 is already rather heavy and could take that kind of punishment, but if I want to chop something then I'll buy a hatchet or a full on machete instead.

I've got a hike through Canada coming up in a few months so I guess that'd be its real test.

e9947c  No.666633

1b34dc  No.666723


On https://knifeinformer.com/discovering-the-best-knife-steel/ CPM-S110V is not in the Edge Retention graph, ZDP-189 is not in the Hardness graph, and H1 is not in the Corrosion Resistance graph.

The author cut out the top-most performers of those three graphs.

dd60a7  No.666884

Not seeing anything here for throwing knives. I used to have a set of hiben knives that I liked. It was basically 3 utility knives that I could cycle through to keep my cuts clean, with the added bonus of being able to lob them should I ever find myself in a desperate situation. Was considering getting some more, and thought I'd check to see what the streloks were recommending.

b5e764  No.671724

I'm trying to sharpen a glock knife and can't seem to get it to take a nice edge, the grind seems very uneven and this seems to be common looking online, should I bother trying to get it sharp? it's just for stabby anyway.

df6e14  No.671752

File: ce7827ccd977368⋯.jpg (55.05 KB, 1360x1015, 272:203, LMF-II-Survival-Coyote-Bro….jpg)


I got one with the kydex sheath, but I do not like the grip on my sensitive bitch hands, I much rather prefer the LMF2 (I bought one when they had started making them with different steel, so it is unclear if I actually got the AUS8 iirc or the Swedish import steel edition that was in their inventory at the time). The grip is heftier, and the partial tang designed for cutting through live wiring can be helpful.

df6e14  No.671753


At one point you could buy a pack of like 10-15 throwing knives on amazon for $30

If you break or loose one they are cheap to replace, and you are throwing it anyway, so if it bounces and gets messed up you are not out a lot of money. TBH it is just a pointy piece of metal, and you can throw anything with weight and a point and get it to stick.

I would say look at

>price per knife



>avoid zombie meme knives

I remember SOG used to sell a pack at big box stores, but the reviews on their website seem poor or mixed/

aa988a  No.671763


>Any preference for what kind of grease/oil?

I use Wahl clipper oil because it's a bit thicker than most mineral oils.


I had problems with mine too, but I think it's just because I suck at wet stones.

a073fc  No.673527

File: 48f7e0e5aadb292⋯.jpg (9.73 KB, 250x281, 250:281, Bear-&-Son-Large-CP-Butter….jpg)

I'm looking for a quality pocket knife for defense/fighting.

It needs to be :

- low profile, slim.

- Have any kind of quick opening system.

- Ideally have the blade automatically locked when opened.

Maybe I want a butterfly knife (I suppose it can be used even when the handles aren't locked together, idk, I have never had one in my hands), but im not certain.

Any recommendation?

2560e7  No.673536

Invidious embed. Click thumbnail to play.


You asked about locking knives specifically so I'll answer that as well as I can, but you should always keep in mind that folding knives are suboptimal for a self-defense scenario. The locking mechanism is a potential weak point that can snap under stress, and full-tang fixed blades are almost always preferred. With steel liners and a strong modern locking system like the compression lock, the captured ball bearing lock, or the Tri-Ad, this is very unlikely. However, no matter how advanced a locking system gets it will never be stronger than a full tang. Also, unless you have some fighting skill with a knife, it's generally suggested that you go with a collapsible baton for defense rather than a blade. All that being said…

>Have any kind of quick opening system.

>Ideally have the blade automatically locked when opened

Butterfly knives are a meme; they're only good for showing off your l33t knife flipping skills and most don't even lock. For what you're looking for, I'd suggest looking into the Emerson Wave line of knives, or one of the Spyderco knives which licenses the Wave feature. As in the video, these have a little hook on the spine of the blade which snags your pocket as you take out the knife, and automatically opens it as you draw. This is arguably faster than even automatic knives, as rather than having to press a button, the knife is already open and ready by the act of taking it out of your pocket. If none of the Wave knives are to your liking, you can get a similar effect by taking a Spyderco knife and attaching a zip tie to the hole (see pic in next post). Generally, what you're looking for in a fighting knife is a spear-point blade with either a flat grind or a hollow grind–a nice thin blade that's good for stabbing.

2560e7  No.673537

File: 49899da7c3d5862⋯.png (720.26 KB, 1280x720, 16:9, ClipboardImage.png)


Poor man's Emerson Wave. You can find the baton instructions here >>596973 if you go that route. Ignore the shilling for Benchmade in that post, they're a trash company that doesn't respect gun rights.

1c21e4  No.673565


Reading through your list, I find that it has Tor NL1 as best innawoods for uber money. One time I got really stupid one night when I had a bunch of extra cash and was on a binge of buying nice things for a lifetime and I bought one. In fact its so expensive I really don't even like touching the thing, but it seems to be an extremely good knife so far. Glad to know I bought /k/'s recommendation after all when burnhing that kinda money. Fuck me.

Anybody use their Tor NL1 more aggressively than me and have any advice/knowledge to drop on me? If I should be a bit more aggressive, or do I want to chip my super fucker knife?

10e74c  No.673837

File: 276f40deacf7fd1⋯.jpg (57.83 KB, 590x600, 59:60, 825132gq_ml.jpg)


>You asked about locking knives specifically so I'll answer that as well as I can, but you should always keep in mind that folding knives are suboptimal for a self-defense scenario. The locking mechanism is a potential weak point that can snap under stress, and full-tang fixed blades are almost always preferred. With steel liners and a strong modern locking system like the compression lock, the captured ball bearing lock, or the Tri-Ad, this is very unlikely. However, no matter how advanced a locking system gets it will never be stronger than a full tang. Also, unless you have some fighting skill with a knife, it's generally suggested that you go with a collapsible baton for defense rather than a blade. All that being said…

Yeah, I just need a pocket knife as backup in case I can't carry or reach my full tang knife.

As full tang I'm looking for a fighting/utility knife like they use in the military, the Glock knife, Ka-Bar knives and the KM-2000/3000/5000 are all appealing and if they are good enough for actual military use they are probably good enough for me as well, so it'll depend of how much money I want to spend on that. The KM's are probably my favorites, the KM-5000 should be the best for fighting but it's also the most expensive of all the KM's.

>I'd suggest looking into the Emerson Wave line of knives, or one of the Spyderco knives

I'll look into them. Thanks for the help.

ebd77e  No.674042


Nice, I have the type 1 akm

58bc25  No.674322

File: 27286fe2f018d70⋯.pdf (1.27 MB, stabby stab stab.pdf)

Recently a German magazine for women featured an article about how to treat a stab wound, can anybody identify the knife from the article?

ff24b5  No.674324

File: b013c33e2fb60ec⋯.jpg (111.03 KB, 768x758, 384:379, b013c33e2fb60eccc8776535e2….jpg)

58bc25  No.674326

File: f47bc2fadc38247⋯.png (2.69 MB, 1480x728, 185:91, more knife attacks.png)


That just a clean scan of the article, but fine here is a cut out of that knife.

4cb92c  No.674365


Obviously the hand holding the knife is white.

ddea52  No.674438


Not all criminal foreigners in Germany are brown and its a magazine for bored upper class housewife who gget enrichment from TV and art exhibitions.

9bac29  No.676620

File: 744a7621905241e⋯.jpg (695.07 KB, 1242x1131, 414:377, Model1917_knuckle_duster.jpg)

File: 8d5e78379828638⋯.jpg (225.53 KB, 614x348, 307:174, BC41_001.JPG)

Do knuckle dusters give you a tactical advantage?

d98388  No.676626


Massive advantage, but obviously it makes the blade awkward to hide

a238a2  No.676632

File: aacbf5618b6731c⋯.png (2.76 MB, 1480x728, 185:91, fixed.png)

10e74c  No.676638


makes more sense now

d4f9be  No.676640


I've one of those myself. Decent knife for the price and doesn't get a second look since it's safety orange. Sharpens up well after use.

9bac29  No.676644


How so? I thought stabbing or even slashing is better than hitting, except if you fight an armoured opponent. Mind you, I'm not doubting your words, and they obviously made such knives for both world wars, I just can't imagine how it would work in practice.

19554b  No.676653


I have first pic. Not bad for $13 at a minecraft convention

65546c  No.676680

Is s110v a meme? Should I just ignore it, or are the advantages over other knife steels worth considering?

b27b04  No.676910


Another form of attack

Extra hand protection

Even harder to disarm

f13ea1  No.676990


Depends what you mean by meme. It is legitimately moar bettar than other steels in hardness and edge retention. However, you could probably do without the benefits and some midrange steel would fulfill the your needs almost as well for a better price. But that could also be said of those other steels over chinesium—if you sharpen, often, rehone often, and keep them lubed and water-free, the latter could serve most your needs as well, so long as you don't baton wood or otherwise beat the crap out of the knife.

Really, it comes down to two things: how much do you value your time, and how long do you want to go without maintenance/replacement. Some people are okay with spending an hour a week on sharpening, others want to stretch that to a few times a year. If you never spend more than a few days at a time in the field and aren't prepping for SHTF, durability matters less as you can always buy another shit knife for pennies. But if you want something that lasts, and won't immediately become a rusty butter knife if you miss the maintenance, dropping shekels on premium steel is better.

65546c  No.676993


I guess it really does come down to that. Thanks for replying, anon.

7bd631  No.677492


bump i'm thinking of buying an NL1 as well. Have you had to sharpen yours? How did that go?

7b82f5  No.677660

I have a Mora Kansbol and a Buck 110. Is there anything I'm missing in terms of versatility?

055871  No.678037

I'm traveling to Finland in August to help my and thinking of buying a Puuko while I am there. Any recommendations on what size and maker? Money isn't a huge issue, but ideally nothing over 200 Euros. I'll be doing plenty of bush work for my uncle while there, but I really just like the aesthetics and want a good daily use fixed blade puuko

055871  No.678039


I apologize for the sperg like sentence structure and typos.

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