fb16ca No.5473
Doing my plugs and wires soon. I've got pre-gapped Bosch Iridium spark plugs, and the gap on the box is the correct gap for my engine. I'd like to just put them in as-is without messing with the gap, since the electrode is so easy to damage, and because I'm pretty sure I've screwed up a couple iridium plugs before by gapping them. The thing is, 90% of "pre-gapped" plugs I've checked in the past were set at the wrong gap (and were not even consistent in how far off they were).
So which is riskier? Messing with the gap to make sure it's right, or leaving them alone and potentially using the wrong gap?
78655f No.5474
>>5473
Sorry, I'll answer your question after I find out what dumb fuck puts spark plugs in Mosin Nagants.
055a09 No.5475
if its the right gap, its the right gap.
just be sure to check all of them
78655f No.5479
Where can I get 1/10th scaled WAT stickers
5c6c16 No.5497
Always check the gaps before installing. If they are not the right gap then adjust them. If you youre a pussy and dont want to do them takae them back to crapzone and get an exchange.
Also if the gap is wrong you could eaily pre-detonate or post detonate
fb16ca No.5507
>>5475
>>5497
Checked them, they were all varying degrees of wrong. Set them all right (very carefully), and will install tomorrow morning.
If these ones don't last either, I may just switch to copper. They're quick and easy enough to replace that I won't really mind the shorter life span. Plus I can go ahead and order a lifetime supply on the cheap.
>>5474
It was me.
78655f No.5533
>>5507
That really cheeki'd my breeki's.
2f763e No.5579
bcf2c4 No.6033
File: 1440767575873.jpg (688.44 KB, 1600x1320, 40:33, 0dc18ac49ff6595dc956801250….jpg)
I'm on a tight budget for the foreseeable future and after earning money through a job I'm doing on the side for a friend, I'll have around $650-675 saved up. I've never owned a "fun" vehicle before but I'm interested in getting a used motorcycle. Is it worth it to wait around till a good ~$600 beginner-friendly bike shows up on craigslist, or am I better off going for my second choice and just investing in something like a driving wheel for muh racing vidya? Is it even feasible for a roadbike that cheap to even run "properly"? I'm fine with minor problems so long as they're easy/cheap enough to fix (surface rust, replacing lights, fixing small oil leaks, etc.)
and before someone asks me why I don't just get a foxbody, assuming you can even get one that isn't a moneypit for that cheap, I don't really have the space to store another car atm
b76448 No.6039
What kind of cars are worth looking at that make good head turners while not being retarded ridiculous? I sortof want a Mercedes but at the same time I don't care for the new ones. At the same time I want something with a little kick in the hood that I can use as a commuter or get loud on the weekends.
It's not an immediate buy, probably will be two years before I get said car. Just trying to figure out what I should start looking at.
I liked the Mercedes Benz SLS, but not for that pricetag.
b76448 No.6040
>>6039
On an additional sidenote:
I'm also looking for a car (not truck, car) that can be used as a commuter car but can be used to haul trailers when needed. Anything around $25k or lower ideally. I know it sounds like another strange question, but it's difficult finding a car that can tow.
fb16ca No.6042
>>6033
I don't know about bikes, but please don't waste car money on vidya. You will thank yourself later.
Also, I'm a firm believer in having at least several hundred dollars saved in addition to the cost of the vehicle for short-term maintenance and repair. Unless you can get a bike for almost free, I would hold off.
c11431 No.6048
Got another fucking 240sx question.
Seems I am the only one asking them.
Has anyone tried the 248/232 cam setup on a 1991 ka24de?
And does anyone have a link to a complete tutorial on the swap?
78655f No.6055
Why does everyone complain about BOV? Don't they benefit the engine?
78655f No.6063
I'm getting a Celica soon, engines bad in it and I can get a K24A2 for cheap. Will it fit in, and if so, how much will it cost to.
001be3 No.6066
>>6055
Blow off valves?
>>6063
Interesting.
Never heard of a fwd horizontally mounted engine fitted into a longtidunal setup. Wait no both the fwd and awd Celica are mounted horizontally right?
78655f No.6067
>>6066
Aren't FWD horizontally?
c11431 No.6069
>>6055
Who complains about BOV's?
They are essential if you are turbo converting a car.
ba3fe3 No.6070
OP, I've gapped irridium plugs no problem. If they didn't want them to be gapped, then they simply just had to have the right gap in the box.
With that being said, I'd say Irridium? unless it's an application that calls for that specifically, good ol' NGK copper cores work best in most engines. On more than a few occasions in the past have I tried to be "fancy" with plugs, only for everything to shit the bed and having to switch back to "plain" NGK G Powers
cbdf6e No.6460
I want to turbo my engine eventually. Is there any reason i shouldn't get an ECU, a bigger gas pump and more capable injectors and install preemptively.
97dd40 No.6491
925f7f No.6550
what wheels should i use today eh? how about a different one on each corner?
bonus points if you can identify what car each wheel came from. 3 of them are from standard production cars, only one is aftermarket.
925f7f No.6551
>>6460
yes.
Cost i would say is the biggest factor.
research your car, see if the ECU can take forced induction, most cant without chipping or reprogramming (or total replacement)
also work out the load % of your injectors with how much boost youre going to run, so long as you stay below 90% i wouldnt bother with upgrading.
what HP are you aiming for with the build?
what engine do you have?
have you looked into engine swaps?
1babd8 No.6563
>>6460
Well if you have your life planned out and aren't expecting any surprises yes.
Buy necessary components as you go and save money. But remember even though it's still new you won't get the same amount back if you scrap the project and sell the parts off.
1babd8 No.6564
>>6460
Well if you have your life planned out and aren't expecting any surprises yes.
Buy necessary components as you go and save money. But remember even though it's still new you won't get the same amount back if you scrap the project and sell the parts off.
97dd40 No.6565
>>6551
I'm aware of the cost, but doing it in two stages would allow me to save up some money between the fuel stage and the forced induction stage.
I'll need a nistune most likely.
>load %
I have not looked into that actually, definitively will do. Would save some cash.
But I'll probably have to upgrade.
>what HP
I want something in the neighbourhood of 220 right now. Just enough to have a bit more fun but still sane.
>What engine?
KA24DE
>Swaps
I sure have. But it feels a little like cheating somehow. Plus, while I can find space to turbo convert I'd be hard pressed to find a place to engine swap. Meaning I'd have to get a shop to do it, meaning the cost would end up about the same.
>>6563
Hmm, well not planned out exactly but I have a buffer.
Yup, what I was planning to do. Just figured there was no reason not to install the fuel side and tune the engine a little while still NA.
9f574e No.6687
I just heard about the Toyota Hilux. Living in burger land, I thought we were the king of trucks, and here we are without access to this beauty. I've been considering getting a truck in the near future, but fuck buying a RAM BIGHORN KING RANCH XBOXHUEG size truck.
Does anyone else know this feel?
0378db No.6694
>>6687
The ram 1500 is supposed to come out with a dieselk soon. But for an already big truck might as well go all out for the 3500 six speed.
Toyota is real stupid for not investing in a carb and emission complaint system for the hilux for us import. It will outbeat ranger,dakota and all other light pickup sales in a heart beatr
fb16ca No.7002
Zero auto electrical experience here. Trying to figure some stuff out.
If I disconnect the negative battery terminal, then probe the negative terminal and the negative battery post with a DMM, I should read zero voltage, right? Because it's fluctuating wildly between 1 and 8 volts when I do this.
ee2652 No.7003
>>7002
no
the volt ohmmeter still completes the circuit, and a lot of components like car alarms draw a low amount of current constantly
fb16ca No.7008
>>7003
Ah, I see.
Hmm… well, I guess that's a bit of a relief. Maybe I won't throw in the towel and just Jihad My Ride.
Still, I think this is gonna take a looooong time.
e87db9 No.7210
I just dumped a mostly-full bottle of ATF-4 into a car that takes Dexron, how quickly will my transmission explode?
fb16ca No.7239
Geo Metro needs a new distributor housing gasket. Haven't been able to find one yet, though I'll keep looking. Is RTV an acceptable substitute in this situation if a proper gasket can't be found?
f5c5e8 No.7265
>>7239
Is the engine a G13BA? Might wanna search on engine code instead of model name.
db8713 No.7266
>>6067
>>6066
The proper terms you are looking for is Transverse (Front and back of the engine are facing the sides of the car) and Longitudinally mounted front and back to front and back.
And there are a few longitudinally mounted FWD drive cars(That I know and there is probably more). The Second Generation Acura Legend, and the Oldsmobile Toronado.
Generally speaking, you mounted a FWD engine transverse because it saves space, but as a result, this means there is going to be an intermediate shaft on one of the axles.
As a result, the torque being applied to one side is going to be greater than the other, resulting in torque steer.
Usually when they mount of a FWD cars engine longitudinally it's because they want the transmission to be mounted more centrally, to make the torque steer less prevalent.
f5c5e8 No.7270
>>7266
Aren't all Subarus bigger than the Justy longtudinally mounted FWD or AWD cars?
You coulda have got a Impreza 1.6 without AWD here in The Netherlands, not sure how things are in the States.
db8713 No.7273
>>7270
Yeah.
Completely forgot about Subarus. They have always been the exception, same with Bugs and Porsches(Which could have easily made a FWD car). Just Boxers and flat engines in general.
Subaru will tell you that they use a Boxer for Balance. (Second picture) but I don't buy it. For front to rear balance, the engine should be placed over the front axle, like the Legend(>>7266), most FF cars and most FR cars.
I personally feel the only reason why Subaru's boxer engine is even reputable is because of their rally heritage, which they specifically designed their cars for, which is probably why the axles sit behind the engine.
Low Traction environments(Between the road surface and ground) is the only place where putting more weight on the front wheels will benefit from having more weight thrown on them, instead of less, hence axle placement.(Using the engine as a lever arm acting on the wheels)
ee2652 No.7274
>>7273
>showing V engines as inherently imbalanced to one side
this is only semi true for mabye a handfull of engines at most and flat out bullshit for the majority while somewhat true for most transverse inline engines
also OHV V engines have nearly the same center of gravity as boxers
db8713 No.7275
>>7274
Don't look at me. Look at Subaru. They're the ones perpetuating this shit.
And Tbf, a transverse mounted FF car is properly more balanced with a driver in the car as long as the transmission is mounted on the opposite side.
ee2652 No.7276
>>7275
>And Tbf, a transverse mounted FF car is properly more balanced with a driver in the car as long as the transmission is mounted on the opposite side.
true
it would be interesting to see the effects of driver weight on handling dynamics with a bunch of different drivetrain configurations
db8713 No.7277
>>7276
I agree.
I'd be interested in Front Wheel drive, engine in front of axles. Front wheel drive, engine on axles. Mid engine, on axles, and in front, Rear engine. And all of these in transverse(Both ways) and Longitudinally set up ways.
Tbh, I don't think a lot of these would matter that much. Like eventually the chassis as a whole starts to matter. If you used the same chassis for all of these, it would show what we already know.
Car length, weight, balance etc, could easily be used to counteract inherent problems in drive train design.
86ba78 No.7280
>>7273
>forgetting that the best part about a big V8 is the fact that the car rocks when you rev it.
03d4d2 No.7367
drive a 97 expedition, and at least one of the front speed sensors for the ABS / A4WD is bad.
RockAuto lists
Dorman $69
Standard motor products $87
Airtex / Wells $88
Motorcrafthype $127
thinking of just buying 2.. any preferences?
ee2652 No.7368
>>7280
with a big cam and stiff engine mounts they will rock at idle like a massage chair
03d4d2 No.7370
>>7367
97 Expedition here again. Heres a bigger question.
So yesterday I took my truck in brakes plus to get an alignment done. they told me it couldn't be done without $1500 worth of parts and labor for repairs.
Said I needed to replace front L & R upper ball joints, which are part of the upper control arms, front L & R lower ball joints,front sway bar bushings.
I don't think they even really checked out the rear.
fuck. OK so after the sticker shock I thanked him and came home to internet and my haynes manual, this shit doesn't look that bad. youtube vid also mentioned new sway bar end links so i priced a couple of them.
Parts:
The guy spoke highly of MOOG, so that's what I have been pricing out so far
front L & R upper control arms $47 ea
front L & R lower ball joints $24 ea
front sway bar bushings $11 set
stabilizer bar link $6 ea
Tools:
ball joint service kit $105
front end puller kit $60
What grease do I put in the lower ball joints?
Am I missing any other parts i should check out or just change out during this job or specialty tools for this job?
ee2652 No.7374
>>7370
>front L & R upper control arms $47 ea
unless they are bent or rusted through, generally its just the bushing that fails on control arms
ee2652 No.7375
forgot to add
>What grease do I put in the lower ball joints?
any general purpose automotive grease
03d4d2 No.7377
>>7374
ford decided it best to build the ball joint into the arm.
moog's arm actually has a slot to replace the balljoint it comes with, but its about 3 bucks cheaper than the arm + bj….
>any general purpose automotive grease
coo
04a23e No.7385
MR2anon here
I would like to ask if anyone could recommend some performance part sites to look through? I need to upgrade/replace some of the suspension parts on my MR2 (tension control arms and struts). Googling isn't helping all too much
bc7537 No.7388
anyone here do their own strip and retint?
i want to get my ride tinted but local shop quoted me like $700 to strip and retint an SUV
99dc1f No.7393
>>7385
You should have your own thread.
Go on mr2 forums and search then ask for suspension upgrades. A sway bar and delrin bushings as well as a whole busing/arm
refresh immediately comes to mind.
>>7388
Seems too high. 300-400 for quality tint done at a quality shop.
04a23e No.7399
>>7393
Having my own thread seeds too attention whorish
anyway I found the "mr2" auto parts site twosrus, and asked an autocrossing friend about some parts and I've got it figured out.
29f013 No.7404
>>7399
Bull shit. Im interested in your build and im sure others are too.
Besides we cant help you if you post in dead threads
04a23e No.7405
>>7404
Fine, I'll make a thread dedicated to my journey of restoring and modifying it to cone-fagging and track day status
but not right now
db8713 No.7437
>>7385
From my "research" I guess you called it that. The defacto suspension upgrade for AW11 is koni yellows with ground control coil overs with your preferred spring..
https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/aw11
Check it out parts here.
04a23e No.7442
>>7437
Yeah that site and twosrus are the two only major aw11 performance part sites I could find. And I did find out about the koni yellows being the go-to struts for aw11's.
3ea61f No.7553
I recently got a '90 Volvo 240 DL with an automatic, and my last fillup i used the trip to measure and i got about 15mpg calculated. shouldnt it be closer to like 23?
it needs an alignment and exhaust gaskets replaced i know, and i suppose the outer fuel pump check valve needing replaced to could leak some gas, but 8mpg worth?
2fc712 No.7618
I have some old 2 stroke gas of unknown mixture I want to get rid of, would putting a little of it at a time in my car hurt it any?
ad9ed5 No.7639
>>7553
Probably just age. Should see an improvement just by cleaning/replacing some of the older parts and fluids. You'd probably smell if there was a serious problem.
>>7618
Just invite some friends over for a bonfire. Or call your friendly local parts store and see if they can dispose of it, the one I work at has a big drum out back we dump old oil in. I wouldn't use it in a car though.
fb16ca No.7684
>>7618
Some people add 2 cycle oil to their tank as an upper cylinder lubricant. I certainly don't think it'll hurt anything (except maybe the cat if you do this long-term).
fe69ab No.7725
Recently i got a commuter car so my suv is put on reserve.
I have been starting it once a week and getting on the freeway for 5 miles then coming back to keep the battery charged.
Is this too little?
do I want to keep the gas low and add a couple gallons a month so it doesn't do whatever gas does when it sits?
Any other considerations? Not planning on selling it, as i can afford to register and insure it for about $400/yr.
29f013 No.7738
>>7725
Whats the SUV? How old is the battery? Whats the climate?
If your worried about the battery get a trickle charger at a local hardware/automitve store for 30bucks and plug that bitch in.
As for fuel keep it below the quarter tank line and add a GASOLINE fuel stabilizer.
Then if you ever plan on using it just start it up and drive to the local fuel station.
06eba6 No.7742
>>7738
>Whats the SUV?
97 expedition
>How old is the battery?
Less than a year
>Whats the climate?
Denver
>If your worried about the battery get a trickle charger at a local hardware/automitve store for 30bucks and plug that bitch in.
I am but in an apartment complex.
>As for fuel keep it below the quarter tank line and add a GASOLINE fuel stabilizer.
>Then if you ever plan on using it just start it up and drive to the local fuel station.
Ty
bcf2c4 No.7901
A few months ago I went ATV riding through the woods with my friend for the first time and had a blast. Is riding dirt bikes the most cost effective /o/-related hobby? Looking to get something fun to use every other weekend that wont cost me a couple thousand dollars, wont take up half the garage, and wont require me to spend almost as much as the bike on safety gear. How viable would it be to buy something like a TTR90 off of craigslist for a few hundred dollars and fix up any minor problems, plus a helmet, gloves, boots and goggles? If I'm calculating this right then I could get all this and spend a little under $600 total, assuming I shop around for good deals online, and spend not that much additional money to camp weekends at my semi-local OHV park. What is the maintenance like for pure dirt bikes, both in terms of time/effort and cost? Does this sound like a solid plan or am I better off waiting a couple years for something road-legal, crying in my un-moddable shitbox the whole time?
b97263 No.7906
>>7901
Yea 600 total for a bike that needs work and used smelly helmet shit and gloves.
Best if you find a decent bike around 1-2k(winter means low prices on used outdoor goods as guys get layed off for the winter and need the cash) and get a helmet. Unless you plan on riding hard trails and doing jumps you don't need a suit. Just some jeans and a thermal shirt and a helmet. As for gloves a good set of padded mechanix gloves work fine.
Plus if you don't have a backyard or quarry near you you will need to transport the bike if it's not road legal. Don't even risk taking it on the road. Or try to get it road worthy look up local laws on how.
Since you choose a ttr90 bike I'll assume you're under 18 correct?
78655f No.7914
Why does the new beta suck so much?
Slow loading times, and mobile users can't post.
e1d616 No.7918
>>7914
Josh has been having troubles with it
78655f No.7919
>>7918
If it still has problems, why does he suggest we all get over there as soon as possible?
e1d616 No.7920
>>7919
You may want to update yourself on what's been going on:
https://notehub.org/346di
https://ghostbin.com/paste/vwuwd
tl;dr 8ch didn't have the hardware he thought he did and it made development of next come to a screeching halt, things are looking up but there's no move planned at this stage
f5c5e8 No.7921
>>7914
Because Volvo HW and Josh's faggotry.
78655f No.7923
>>7920
If there's no move planned, why does he say this in the Jan 4 update?
>It is suggested that small boards, particularly those suffering the most from frozen indexes and white pages, migrate as soon as possible. As in, right now.
>>7921
Fuck you, Volvo was doing awesome outside of FoMoCo.
bcf2c4 No.7928
>>7923
>Fuck you, Volvo was doing awesome outside of FoMoCo
Not even that guy, but it's an RCR reference you fool
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xXo3WckpasU
c3227e No.7929
What part of a car is legally the car? Like the lower receiver on an AR15 is legally the firearm. What do you have to transplant from car A to car B to legally make it car A? What can you transplant from car X to car Y before Y legally becomes X? When B turns into A, what happens to the remainder of old A?
29f013 No.7933
>>7929
The car is legally identified by the chassis vin which is what you register it by.
If you were the transplant an engine which carries its own vin, and in some states if not all require records to be kept on all vin codes on the vehicle, the cars chassis vin does not change.
But many cars carry vin plates in diffrent parts of the vehicle. So if you were to lets say backhalf a car the car keeps the vin on the dash I believe.
I dont know ask your local vin check station.
f5c5e8 No.7935
>>7928
>that S60R review
>someone actually got the reference from that RCR review